Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit Installation - 2013 Hyundai Elantra

Products Featured in this Video

Roadmaster Crossbar-Style Base Plate Kit - Removable Arms

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Code: 521632-1

Retail: $461.64

Price:  $449.96

• Base Plates
• Removable Drawbars
• Twist Lock Attachment

• Roadmaster

Roadmaster's crossbar-style brackets are virtually invisible, easy to mount, and simple to remove. Brackets install on your vehicle's frame to provide attachment points for your tow bar.

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How to Install the Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit on a 2013 Hyundai Elantra

Today on our 2013 Hyundai Elantra, we'll be installing the Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit with removable arms, part number 521632-1. We'll begin here by raising the hood on the vehicle. We'll go ahead and point out some hardware that well need to remove, to remove the front fascia. This will need to be done before we can do anything else. You'll notice that there are total of four locations that well need to remove, which we actually found later that the directions we're wrong and you actually do need to remove all five of these little push in fasteners up here on the top. You use a Phillips head screwdriver and either a large flat head or trim panel removal tool to take them out. The extra one thats not shown on the directions is actually all the way on the left hand side or on the driver side. That one will need to come out as well.

Next we'll go over here in each of the fender wells. There's one screw that needs to be removed that holds the front fascia to the fender. Now we're ready to go underneath the vehicle and continue removing hardware so we can remove the front fascia. There're three plastic fasteners on each side that well need to remove in order to remove the fascia from the fender. Next you'll notice that there's a total of seven bolts that are visible here on the underside or this splash guard part. We'll need to take all seven of these out as well as two additional ones that are on each side, so you'll go ahead and take all 11 bolts out at this time.

It will make things a little bit easier for you. Now that we've got the lower splash panel out of the way, now we're ready to remove our front fascia. Simply grab each of the sides and pull outward and forward. It's a good idea to get an extra set of hands here so that you can do one side and have someone else do the other side. That way the front fascia doesn't come off and get scratched. Now we can begin taking other items off. We'll go ahead and remove each of the horns.

We'll go ahead and unplug the wiring from the back of each by simply pushing in on the locking tab and gently pulling outward. With each of the wiring harnesses disconnected from each of the two horns, we'll go ahead and remove the screw that holds it in place. Now we're ready to go ahead and remove the bumper core structure. There're a total of five mounting locations on each side, three bolts and one nut. The nut is located in the center top section.

The four bolts are around the four corners of the bumper structure where it mounts to the frame of the vehicle. Now that we have all the hardware removed except for one bolt on each side, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you remove this bumper core. Now with the bumper core set out of the way, we need to remove the air box. You'll notice that there're two sections of wiring that are actually connected to the air box here on the driver side. We'll need to remove these from there for now. Simply slide the flathead screwdriver in and work them up so that they pop free. Well then need to remove three bolts, one on the inside of the frame and two on the outside. Once you have these three bolts out, we'll need to disconnect the air hose thats on the inside connecting into the air box, as well as working the top section of the air box free from that connection as well. We'll go ahead and set the air box aside for now. Now with the air box removed as well as the other side exposed you'll see that there's a rubber grommet on each side that's in the frame. We'll need to go ahead and remove that as well. Now that we've got our rubber grommet removed from each side of the frame rail now we're ready to begin putting new parts in place. We'll begin by putting the inch and a quarter by one inch wall pipe spacer in place over the hole that we just exposed by removing a rubber plug. We'll repeat this from both the driver and the passenger side. Now that we have the spacer in place on both sides, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you put the main receiver brace into place. Youll slide the two ends of the main brace into the frame holes and go on top of the spacer block you just put in place. You notice how there's an existing weld nut welded to the new brace. Then from the underside, we'll install the half inch by two and a half inch bolt, a half inch lock washer as well as the clip plate washer, which is a washer that has one portion of it cut flat, not round. It needs to be noted that red Loctite needs to be used on all nuts and bolts for mounting this bracket in place. The Loctite is part number LT37420. Once we have both of these bolts installed loosely now we're ready to put the other eight remaining bolts into place. To do this we'll be using an eight millimeter bolt, a fender washer and a lock washer. You put the lock washer on the bolt first followed by the fender washer. We did find that we had to use an alignment tool to help line up some of the holes. When using the alignment tool we went through the main brace and into the existing weld nut to help move things around just a little bit. Once you have all the hardware installed, again making sure that you have red Loctite on these eight bolts we just installed, go ahead and tighten down all the hardware and then we'll torque it to the manufacturers specification. To reinstall the two horns that we removed earlier, we use the existing bolt that we used to remove it from the bumper structure as well as an additional six millimeter fender washer and a six millimeter nylon locknut. Youll want to make sure that you reinstall them on the proper side. The electrical connection goes to the outside on both the driver and the passenger side. Now at this time we can also go ahead and reinstall the air box in the reverse order that we removed it. Now that that's done we'll go ahead and put the two under splash pieces back on, one for the driver and the passenger side that we removed. Now we can go ahead and also reinstall our forward most splash guard. Now that that's done we can go ahead and remove the foam piece that's on the back of the front fascia. To do this we'll simply remove the two little tabs here and then we'll set the foam aside, as we will not be reusing it. Now we'll need to go ahead and hold the fascia up on the front of the vehicle so we can mark our areas that will need to be trimmed to allow the areas for the removable arms to slide through the lower part of the grill. With our fascia up in place, we'll take our yellow paint marker here and put a couple marks to mark out the area that we'll need to trim using our rotary tool. Well then pull the front fascia back off, and then we'll trim out the areas that we marked. Now that we've got our front fascia trimmed, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you put the front fascia back on. We'll go ahead and slide our front fascia back up on. We want to make sure that the two little prongs that you can connect the wire plug to clear the lower grill. You may need to bend them just a little bit if they don't. Now that we have our front fascia back up into place we'll go ahead and make sure that the snaps go in around the headlights as well as where the fender meets the fascia. With that done we'll go ahead and put our bolt in that holds your front fascia to the fender on each side. We'll then put the five tabs that we removed from underneath the hood that hold the fascia in place. Now we're ready to install our eight inch safety cables. We'll use the quick links and connect to the loops right here on the base plate. We'll do this for both the driver and the passenger side. Next we'll go ahead and install each of the removable arms of the tow bar. You ultimately want the two holes at the top and on the outside of the arm. We'll put the removable arm in by turning it 90 degrees, sliding it into place and twisting downward. Once we have bolt from the removal arms in place, now we can show you the bracket as well as the two self-tapping screws that come with the kit. These are for the two small little prongs that come out in the center of the grill. This is a place to mount the wiring bracket if you're running lights on the towed vehicle. Since we don't actually have the wiring in yet, we're not going to mount the brackets as of now. Now that we have the safety cables on as well as both removable arms that will complete our installation of the Roadmaster EZ2 Base Plate Kit with removable arms, part number 521632-1 on our 2013 Hyundai Elantra. .