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B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2022 GMC Sierra 2500


Presenter Hey, everybody. How's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the B&W Turnoverball gooseneck trailer hitch here on our 2022 GMC Sierra 2500. So this is what our trailer hitch looks like installed. And as you can see here, we have a very clean truck bed. When the hitch ball is not in place, everything is pretty much flush with the top of the bed channel there, and the U bolts are actually sit inside the recess of the bed channel. So overall, you're really not taking much bed space away with this trailer hitch here.

When you have the hitch ball out and you're not towing, we can still throw a couple loads of plywood back here, pretty much use the truck bed as we would normally. So the unique thing about this gooseneck trailer hitch here and what really sets it apart from others, sort of two things stand out. Number one, with most gooseneck trailer hitches, you're probably used to the circular hole design that the hitch ball sits inside. With the square hole design here that B&W uses, it does a couple different things. Number one, it cuts down on the rattle and play associated with that circular hole.

And number two, it helps ensure the hitch ball doesn't get stuck as easily. And then, as you can see here, we actually have a hidden ball design when we're not using it, we'll just simply flip the hitch ball upside down, and it can actually store in the truck bed like so. Therefore, you don't have to worry about keeping this inside the cab of the vehicle there, possibly losing it, or just putting it in and out of the truck each time. It's very easy just to flip around when we need it. So the hitch ball that comes with this kit here has a 2 5/16-inch diameter, which is the most standard one.

Chances are your gooseneck trailer is going to have a coupler that accepts this. Now, in regards to the weight capacity of our hitch here, it's gonna be 30,000 pounds for the gross trailer weight rating and 7,500 pounds for the downward force, the pin weight, or the tongue weight, whatever you wanna refer to that as. But like I said, that's pretty much gonna max out the vehicle here, so you shouldn't have to worry about the hitch being the lowest rated component. It's definitely gonna hold up. It's a very durable option.

So another unique feature about the Turnoverball, it actually can easily be used with a fifth wheel hitch for fifth wheel towing. So you do have to use the B&W Companion, which is the hitch specific to this particular gooseneck hitch, but it makes things very easy. You can quickly switch between towing a gooseneck and a fifth wheel trailer. The B&W Companion, which was designed to be used with this, is actually one of the best fifth wheel hitch options on the market. So it definitely gives you a lot of versatility in regards to the trailers that we're gonna be towing. We really do get the best of both worlds. Now, keep in mind, the Companion does reduce the weight capacity a little bit, so you won't quite get 30,000 pounds, but it's still gonna be enough for what your truck can handle. So to either side of our hitch opening here, we're gonna have our safety chain U bolts. So these are nice and large, so they can definitely accommodate those larger clevis hooks. And they're also spring-loaded, so when we're not using them, they'll just simply snap back into the corrugations of the bed for a nice, sleek, smooth finish. So if you guys are familiar with towing those in-bed, those fifth wheel and gooseneck trailers, chances are you've heard of B&W because they have a brand that speaks for theirselves. A lot of their products are made right here in the USA, and everything is backed by a lifetime warranty. Now, I am personally a big fan of B&W. They're great, great stuff, and you're definitely gonna be happy with this gooseneck hitch here. And then, inside the driver wheel well here, we have our easy to use release handle. We just simply pull out and rotate to lock in place. And then, we can change the hitch ball, flip it upside down, remove it completely. But this basically controls the latching pin that goes through the center of the hitch ball, and locks it into place. So again, very easy to use, spring-loaded so it just retracts back in the bed. So in regards to installation, this kit really isn't bad at all. I've actually installed this same hitch a couple times on a few different trucks. And sometimes it can fight you a little bit more than others, but this is, I would say one of the easier gooseneck hitches to install. The only modifications we really need to make are drilling that hole in the center of our truck bed there. But aside from that, everything's bolt-on. There is kind of a little bit of playing with the crossmembers, sliding them back and forth to get everything to line up. So there's a bit of finagling or fitting if you will. So just make sure you give yourself an adequate amount of time. I'd say around four hours should be perfect here for this gooseneck hitch. We'll actually walk you through this entire process, step by step. So here's a list of tools you can expect to use during your installation. We have a 1/2-inch torque wrench here, which you're gonna need, because a lot of these bolts require a significant amount of torque. We also have a box wrench, which are gonna hold some of those larger bolts that connect the corner brackets to the crossbeam. We have an 18-millimeter wrench here that's gonna be used to attach the corner brackets to the top of the frame rail. We have a 13-millimeter socket, and we also have a 13-millimeter ratchet and socket, as well as an open-ended wrench. Those are gonna be used to remove the heat shields on the vehicle. If you have one with a swivel head here, that's certainly gonna help you because a lot of those heat shield bolts are kinda hard to get to. We're also gonna need an extension there to remove the ones for that spare tire heat shield. And then, we have some various sockets there, 13-millimeter, 18-millimeter, 15/16, which we're gonna need for the nuts and bolts throughout. We're also gonna need a drill bit, preferably an 11/16-inch drill bit for the safety chain bolts. We're gonna need a burr bit to clean up some of those holes that we're gonna be drilling into the bed. We're also gonna need a four-inch hole saw, and then a black paint marker here to cover up all the exposed metal. So most of these are common hand tools you're gonna have. You may need to take a trip to the store, purchase one or two sockets or something, depending on if you don't have anything we have here. But aside from that, I would say this is a pretty basic tool requirement here for this kit. So to start off our installation today, we need to lower the spare tire 'cause we will be temporarily removing it. So the first step to do that, you're gonna grab the emergency key off your key fob. You're gonna come to the rear of the vehicle here, open up this cover here, and then we'll insert our emergency key into the lock cylinder. You'll twist it, and then you'll pull straight out, bringing the lock cylinder along with it. And now, we're gonna be using a tool that we have that makes this job a little bit easier, but the tools you need to lower the spare tire, it's gonna activate the winch in there, those are actually gonna be located inside your vehicle. So if you need help with that, just make sure you refer to your owner's manual. With that being said, go ahead and get that spare tire lowered, so we can proceed with our installation. So now, we're gonna come within the truck bed here. We're actually gonna be measuring out the spot in the bed here where our hitch ball is gonna be showing through. Now, the measurements that you need to abide by are in the instructions. Keep in mind, there's a different measurement depending on if we have the short or the long bed model. This particular truck here has the short bed. So you wanna make sure you pay attention to that measurement there. I also recommend measuring a couple times. You really need to be sure that we're drilling this in the exact location. There's not a ton of room for error here. So I definitely recommend spending some extra time just to make sure you have the correct location, but basically, what you're gonna be doing is you're gonna be measuring from this lip here. If you find the center bed channel, that's the one that I like to mark. You'll be measuring from this lip here all the way forward. So this is the measurement in your instructions here. So I just take a paint marker, and I just make a nice little mark in the bed that we can see here. You can see I have mine right there. And then, we're gonna do is we're gonna measure inside the wheel wells. So if we look over here, this isn't a bed channel. I believe it's where they seam these two panels together. I just measured from here on this side to that same spot on the other side. And I took that measurement and I divided it by two. And then, I found the center point for our bed. And where those two measurements intersect, the one from the rear and the one from the side here, is the point we're gonna drill our hole. Now, keep in mind, if you have a truck bed with a drop-in truck bedliner, I recommend removing it for installation, although you can still do it with the drop-in bedliner in place. And our particular model here has a spray-in bedliner. Therefore, we need to compensate or account for that when we're measuring there from the edge of the bed. So I just added an extra 1/16 of an inch here for this spray-in bedliner. So now that we're absolutely certain that we have the correct location here, go ahead and mark it out. If you have a center punch tool, I like to use one of those as well just so your drill bit doesn't walk. And you can kinda gauge that it's gonna be pretty much in the center of the wheel well, directly over the axle. For these short beds here, it's actually offset a little bit closer to the end of the tailgate, but that's just a way to sorta double check everything. But once we're absolutely certain that we have the correct hole, you can see I have a little divot here. We're gonna take a four-inch whole saw and begin drilling. So I like to get real close just so I can make sure that my pilot drill bit is indeed in the correct location. And you wanna make sure you get a good grip here on your drill because when this catches, it can sorta throw the drill one way or another, and you could potentially injure yourself. So just be careful. So once we have our hole drilled, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna come back with a file here, and I'm just gonna clean up all those rough edges and burrs in the inside of our opening, so we can make it nice and smooth. Next, we're just gonna take a vacuum here and clean up all those rough metal shavings. If you got a bare truck bed, we wanna get those out of there, so we don't scratch it anymore than we have to. But with that being said, we're just gonna go ahead and clean up the mess that we made. So once we've got our hole cleaned up, I'm gonna come back with a paint marker here. If you have some clear coat, really whatever you have, you just wanna coat that bare metal that we exposed. So now, we're gonna come underneath the truck here, and we're gonna be removing our spare tire heat shield. You're gonna grab a 13-millimeter socket, and you will need an extension. We're actually using a three-inch and a six-inch. But here's what the spare tire heat shield looks like. It's simply held in place with two bolts. We're gonna have one over here, and then one over here. They are gonna be behind this panel here, so you're gonna have access to them outside. There's what one of the bolts looks like. And again, we have two. Once we get that second one removed, this is just gonna drop out, so be careful. And there we go. So now, we have another heat shield we need to remove. It's gonna be the one directly above the exhaust here over on the passenger side. So this one is a little bit tricky to remove because it's held in place with a couple different fasteners. There's one on the very end back there attaching to the crossbeam. We have one up here attaching to this crossbeam. And then, there's two on the outside of the frame. These two here on the outside of the frame, they're a little bit easier to access inside the wheel well. Now, in regards to the tools you're gonna need, you're gonna need a 13-millimeter socket. If you have a flex-head wrench, that's gonna help you, or if you have just a ratcheting box wrench here, that's certainly gonna help you as well. So just go ahead and take our time now and remove those four bolts, so we can get that heat shield off. Keep in mind that this heat shield, we won't be reinstalling. The other one, we will, so this one will actually be discarded. So in order to get access to those final two bolts there attaching our heat shield to the frame rail, we're gonna go ahead and peel back this liner here. We need to do this for the next step anyways. We have to do it on both sides, so it's not gonna harm us to do this now. But we're just gonna take a T15 Torx bit. We're gonna have three Torx screws, one here, one here, and one here, and the same location on the other side. We'll just go ahead and remove those, and then we can peel back this liner. And this is gonna give us some better access there to the top of the frame rail, so we can get those final two bolts out. So now with all of our fasteners removed, we should just be able to pull the heat shield down and away, and again, we won't be reusing it. So now, the next thing we're gonna do, this is an optional step. It's not required, but I've installed this gooseneck hitch a couple times and this makes it a lot easier. So what we're gonna do is we're just gonna be lowering the exhaust slightly. So we're gonna be breaking the hanger free from the rubber isolator here, the rearward-most one closest to the end of the bumper. So we're gonna go ahead and spray it down. It doesn't matter if we do the top or the bottom, but we'll go ahead and just spray it down. And then, we can take either a pry bar or an exhaust hanger removal tool, so we can go ahead and free the hanger from the isolator. So the next couple steps here, we're gonna be working outside the vehicle. We need to do some pre-assembly. We're gonna grab one of our crossbeams here. Now, you wanna make note of the crossbeam 'cause there's gonna be a welded seam on the bottom edge of that. Or rather we need to make sure that the welded seam is on the bottom edge, so that there's no other welded seams in there. There's just that one. We need to make sure this is facing down. And then, we're gonna grab one of our corner brackets here. We're gonna attach a corner bracket to the crossbeam there. And again, make sure that welded seam is facing down. Then, we're just gonna line up these two holes here with the two holes in our crossbeam. Once we do get everything lined up, we're gonna take a 5/8-inch hex bolt and insert it through like so. So you may need to do a little bit of maneuvering to get everything to line up here. So once we get both of our bolts on, we're gonna go ahead and take our flange nuts, and thread those on as well. And then, we can begin tightening everything down using a 15/16-inch socket and wrench. Now, keep in mind, when we are tightening this down, number one, we wanna make sure that the crossbeam is sort of centered in the corner bracket. You can see there's some adjustment here, front to back. So we wanna make sure it's relatively in the center. And we also need to make sure that the bottom edge of the crossbeam is flush to the inside of that corner bracket there. So you wanna make sure you're pushing down. Now, if you have a friend to help hold things, that's certainly gonna help because we do need to apply a considerable amount of force to these nuts here to tighten 'em down. So just be aware of that when you're torquing everything. So now, we're gonna take our crossmember assembly here. We're gonna go ahead and set it on the vehicle. So we're gonna start going towards the driver side with this corner bracket here. So sort of going towards the gas tank, up and over the brake line bracket. And this is pretty much gonna rest on the frame. So sorta like that. And then, the other end is actually gonna rest on top of our exhaust. So originally, I thought we we're gonna get away with just loosening this hanger here, but I didn't quite have enough room. Sometimes, I've actually gotten them with the exhaust in the factory location and then with just the rear hanger removed. But for some reason, this particular application was fighting me a little bit more. So there's gonna be two more hangers just directly in front of the rear axle there, so we just removed those as well. And you can see it gave us enough room to prop our crossmember on top of the exhaust there. So now that we have that forward-most crossmember in place, we're gonna take another one of our corner brackets, and we're gonna sneak it between the frame and the exhaust, sorta slide it up into position. So sorta just like that. And then, once we get it on there, we're just gonna take our 5/8-inch hex bolts, line up our holes, and insert the bolts through. Now, it doesn't really matter which way the bolts are facing, but I do like to sorta just mirror them on the same side. You can see the other one over here, the nut is on this end. So I'm just gonna match that over here as well. So we had to do a little bit of maneuvering here 'cause we want the end of that corner bracket to be on top of the frame. And then, we push up, should align our holes like that. So again, you're gonna have to slide these back and forth to get everything lined up. So just take your time. I know they are heavy. And then, on the other side, we're just gonna simply secure our two nuts. Now, we're actually not gonna tighten these at this time. We're gonna leave these loose for now, but I do wanna get the threads engaged like so. So we just got the forward crossmember on. Now, we're gonna install the rear. So it's pretty much gonna be the same thing. However, we're actually not tightening down this initial bracket here to start. So this will just be loosely installed as well. So now, we'll take the rear crossmember assembly. We'll go ahead and prop it into position. So this one's just gonna kinda sit like this. I'm gonna prop it up on the exhaust for now. You'll notice this bed channel here, which is directly forward of the hole that we drilled, this crossmember assembly is gonna fit in front of that, and this crossmember assembly is gonna be behind that, sort of back in front of this brace here, so just to give you a better layout of how everything is gonna be oriented under the truck here. So now, we're gonna take another one of our corner brackets and kinda same thing as we did before. We're gonna place that on the crossmember and insert our hardware to lock it in place. In the other end there, we're gonna be installing our flange nuts. So next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take our center section here and install our latching mechanism. So these installation steps here are gonna vary depending on if you have the long or the short bed model. We do have a short bed model here, so this channel is gonna be facing up towards the cab, and we're gonna be installing the latching mechanism over here. But again, it is different depending on if you have the long or short bed, so make sure you reference the instructions here for this step depending on your bed length. But now that we know what side the latching mechanism needs to be installed on, we're gonna go ahead and flip it over here. We'll take our latching mechanism here and insert it. And then, we're gonna take our carriage bolts that come in your kit here. You're gonna get these 5/16-inch ones. You have two different sizes. These two longer ones are the ones we're gonna be using now. So we're gonna come from underneath here and insert it through the bottom like so. And then, on top, it's gonna be secured with a flange nut. So we have one on each side here. And once we get these in place, we're gonna tighten 'em down with a 1/2-inch socket. Now that we have the latching mechanism secure, we need to install the handle. So this is gonna be a spring-loaded pin here I'm gonna pull out, and then rotate to lock it in place. It is kinda hard to do, but there we go. But we wanna be careful that we pay attention to which way the handle is pointing when we're installing this. So this is obviously gonna be pointing down. So we're just gonna take our carriage bolt there, place it into there. This is actually the shorter carriage bolt, but again, there's only two sizes, so it should be pretty easy to distinguish. And we're just gonna simply thread on our flange nut there and tighten her down with our 1/2-inch socket. That's pretty much it. There we go. We're gonna take two more of our 5/8-inch bolts and one of these plates here. And this is gonna install onto the outside of the cross tube. Should see some holes there to line up. Pass them through like so. So I've got this rear one in. Now, I'm gonna pull the rear crossmember as far back as we can get it. And then, I'm gonna do the same thing to that forward-most crossmember, installing it on the outside and pushing it forward as much as we can. We're gonna line up the top of the opening there with the hole that we made in the bed. And then, we're just gonna simply collapse the two crossmembers together, so it's gonna be secured there in those holes. So it's a little bit tricky to do with one person, but it can be done. If you have an extra set of hands, go ahead and grab someone, make things a little bit easier. So you will have to come up and over the frame on the driver side with your handle. So I've got it secured here on this rear crossmember. Now, I'm just gonna push up, and then slide the other crossmember forward. Now that we have all of our bolt in place, don't forget to come back with your nuts here and thread them on. It is a pretty tight fit there. We're gonna come inside of our wheel well here. You're gonna peel back the liner. You're gonna take these hex bolts here, and these are actually gonna thread into the top of the frame. So those corner brackets that we installed earlier, there's actually gonna be oblong holes on the top of those. And those are gonna line up with weld nuts inside the frame here. So you may need to move that bracket forward or backwards, side to side. This really, again, takes a lot of maneuvering to get 'em into position. It is really hard to see in there, but basically, we're just gonna be feeling. I'm gonna take my finger down here, feel in that hole, and this sorta tells me that I need to move my crossmember assembly back towards me a little bit to get everything centered up. But once we do get it on there as best we can, we'll just take one of our bolts here and just begin threading them on. So we're gonna have four of these on each side. There's gonna be two on each side of the corner brackets for both the front and rear, and then two on the other side for the front and rear as well. So I've got that one started. Now, I'll switch over to this side. Perfect. Yeah, those actually went in pretty easy. I've actually fought a lot with these 'cause sometimes when you're moving that rail back and forth on the frame, all that factory wax gets gunked up and it gets thrown down in that hole there, so it can make it kinda hard. But we're just gonna hand-thread these by now. We're not gonna tighten 'em down just yet. I've got two on this side. Again, I have two for the rearward one here, and then we have those exact same things on the other side as well. And then, we need to find a way to lift this center section up, sorta flush to the bottom of the bed. And we wanna do that before we tighten everything down just so we make sure everything's nice and true. So in order to do this, we're actually using a little contraption here that we made specifically for this, but you guys don't have to worry about that. You don't need anything that fancy. I would just recommend getting a long two-by-four, setting it on top of the bed on both sides, then taking a ratchet strap, wrapping it around the two-by-four, and then you're just gonna hook onto that locking mechanism for the hitch ball with your hooks, and just sorta pull it up nice and tight. If you don't have a two bar that'll reach from one side of the bed to the other, you can just place some jack stands in here that you can prop it up on. Really, anything you can think of just to put some upward pressure on that center section is gonna work fine. So now, we're ready to torque everything down to the specifications listed in your instructions. We're gonna start with the four bolts holding our crossmember to the center section. So you're gonna need a 15/16-inch socket and open-ended wrench. You could use a 24 as well but preferably a 15/16. So we're gonna go ahead and tighten these down now. So we got those two. Now, we have these two on the front side as well. Next, we're gonna tighten and torque our four bolts on each side connecting the corner brackets to the top of the frame rail. So we're gonna need an 18-millimeter wrench for this, preferably a ratcheting wrench like what you see here. Now, unfortunately, we're not gonna be able to get a torque wrench on there to tighten 'em down and torque 'em to the specification in your instructions. So what we're gonna do is we're just gonna get them as much as we can with this wrench here. It's a fairly good size, so we should be able to get a lot of leverage. But unfortunately, it's not realistic to torque those down, and the instructions do make note of that. So we're just gonna tighten them as much as we can here by hand. So now, we should have six bolts that are left loose here, so we need to come up here and tighten these. We should have two on this side to the back brace, two on this side to the other side of the back brace, and then these two here. The two over on this side, we actually tightened on the table. So we're gonna take a 15/16-inch socket and begin torquing each of these bolts down to the specifications in your instructions. And again, once you get them tight, the flange nut is gonna hold itself, so you don't have to worry about holding a wrench on there. So now, we're in the driver side wheel well here, and you can see we already sort of have this little pattern sketched out here. So in your instructions, they're gonna give you a diagram of what we need to trim in regards to the wheel well liner here in order to allow clearance of our release handle underneath. So I recommend just sort of sketching it up. They give you some pretty specific measurements, but you really don't have to get down to an exact science on this. You can see we just have a pretty general shape sketched up here. Just gonna go ahead and trim it out. And then, I'm gonna see how the handle operates with that area cut out there, and I can always come back and trim a little bit more if needed. So I'm just gonna be using some shears here, some heavy-duty shears. If you have some tin snips, those will work great as well. Just really anything you have to remove that material should be fine. So I've got that little patch cut out. I'm just gonna hold up the wheel well liner where it's gonna sit naturally. You can see I can easily reach in there, and manipulate the handle. Now, this stuff can be kinda sharp, so if you find yourself to be hitting your hand on it, you can just take out a little bit more. But I quite like how the cutout is now, so I think I'm gonna leave it there. So next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna come underneath the truck here, and we need to drill out the holes for these safety chain U bolts. So we're gonna start by doing this underneath the vehicle. If we look to the side of our center section here, we should have two holes on either side. Now, we're gonna start by using an 11/16-inch drill bit to drill these out. If you guys don't have one of those, you can use a smaller drill bit. Just make sure you're in the center of that hole, and then you can just work your way up until you get to the final size. If you have a step drill bit, that can be used to get the size as well, although it won't be quite as exact as having an 11/16. But that being said, go ahead and drill them out now. So I'm gonna use that there. That's actually gonna give us a nice little pilot, so I know the exact center of that hole, and then I'll come back with some smaller drill bits and work my way up to the final size. So I got 'em drilled out to a 1/2 inch. We're gonna jump up in the truck bed there, so we can finish drilling to our final size. So now, I have our final size here, an 11/16. But again, we can also use a step drill bit. So we're just gonna enlarge those 1/2-inch holes to their final size there. And then, we have our U bolts as well. We can test it along the way to make sure we're on the right track. So there we go, that's a pretty good fit there. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna sweep up all this extra metal. Then, I'm going to use a burr bit. That way, we can clean up all the rough edges inside that hole there. This is what a burr bit looks like. Really, anything you have such as a file will work good as well. And I also have a black paint marker. I'm gonna fill up all that rough metal there, so we don't have to worry about rust. Once we get our holes filled in there, we'll just take our U bolt, drop it into place. I'm gonna repeat that same thing on the other side, and then we can go underneath and secure them. You're gonna place on this little conical spring there. Just like so. And then, we're gonna thread on one of our nuts here. So we're gonna do that same thing on the other one as well. And then, we're gonna take a 15/16-inch socket, the same one we've used so far, and tighten these nuts down until they're flush with the bottom of the bolt. And hat I mean by that is if we look over here to the other side, you'll see the U bolt is flush to the bottom of the nut. So now, all that's left to do is to reinstall everything that we removed earlier such as the spare tire and the spare tire heat shield. We also need to fasten down the fabric wheel well liners. But once that's done, that's gonna do it today for our a look and installation of the B&W Turnoverball gooseneck trailer hitch here on our 2022 GMC Sierra 2500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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