B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 GMC Sierra 3500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2017 GMC Sierra 3500


Today on our 2017 GMC Sierra 3500 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the B&W Turnoverball Underbed gooseneck trailer hitch with custom installation kit, part number BWGNRK1016. One of the really nice features of our B&W Gooseneck is that it actually doubles as a base for our companion fifth wheel. If you have a gooseneck and also maybe a fifth wheel trailer, you can pick up the companion fifth wheel that will fit right in here, and then within a few minutes you can go from having a gooseneck to a fifth wheel trailer. What I really like about our B&W gooseneck is that it utilizes a square shank on our ball, that way when we go to put it in, and we need to line up our latch pin, it's going to be that much easier just to drop it into place, and we don't have to worry about it rotating and not lining up with our pin. It's going to give us a 2 5/16 ball and two safety chain loops that are going to allow us to tow a gooseneck trailer down the road. The really nice thing about this is that when we're done towing and we need to have more bed access, we can actually remove the ball, and instead of leaving it open to allow dirt and debris to fall in we can actually turn the ball upside down and drop it back in place, and now we'll have full bed access and not have to worry about having the ball interfere with anything. To release our latch, if we come to our driver's side, there's going to be a small handle. I'm going to pull it out and just slightly turn it counterclockwise, and that will release our latch pin to secure our ball.

To unlatch it so we can remove the ball, we're going to simply pull it straight out and slightly turn it clockwise, and it will lock into position. Now, our safety chain loops, when they're not being used, are going to sit nice and pretty flat against our bed. For when we do need to use them, they're spring loaded and they're going to allow us to put our hooks on, and they're roughly going to sit about two inches above the bed. Our gooseneck is going to feature a 7500 pound vertical load limit, along with a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight limit. I want to mention you always want to double check the owner's manual of your truck to make sure it can handle that amount of weight. The installation is pretty straight forward.

We're not going to have to drill too much. We are going to have to drill one 4 inch hole in the center of our bed for our ball to go in, as well as four 1/2 inch holes for our safety chain loops. Other than that, it is a custom kit so it is going to fit your truck perfectly, and now that I've gone over some of the features and details, let's show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation, I already went ahead and removed our spare tire temporarily, and now we're going to need to remove the spare tire guard here. There's going to be two 13 milometer bolts that are holding it on. We're going to have one right here toward the back of our leaf spring, and then one further up just right in front of our exhaust hanger right here.

We're going to be using a 13 milometer socket to remove those. We'll go ahead and set this aside for now. Right above our axle, right about our exhaust we're going to have a heat shield here. We're going to remove this as well. On the very ends we're going to have one bolt holding it on and then towards the outside of our truck we're going to have two bolts on the side holding it in place.

Again, I'm going to be using a 13 millimeter socket to remove it. I'm going to go ahead and pull this out, and we're not going to be reinstalling this. Our next step is going to be marking the location for our hole. Now, we're going to want to make sure that the tape measure is hooked on the very edge of our bed, and we're going to measure according to what kind of bed we have and we'll find those measurements in the instructions. Once we have our measurement lengthwise, we're going to need to measure the distance between our two wheel wells, and once we find the distance between the our two wheel wells, then we're going to have to find the half-way distance and where those two lines intercept is where our center point is going to be. We can always come back and double check our first measurement and make sure it lines up. Now, the location that I marked, I'm going to come back with a quarter inch drill bit and I'm going to drill a pilot hole, making it a little bit easier when I come back with my hole saw. I just want to mention you want to be extra careful when you're drilling, and it's always a good idea to double check underneath the vehicle to make sure there's no lines or anything critical that we might hit. Now, before I drill my hole out, I took a piece of old wood that I had laying around, and I actually have several different holes drilled in here that match up with my hole saw. Now when I begin to start drilling, I'm actually going to stand on this, so that way I don't have to worry about my hole saw skipping around or causing any more damage to my bit. It's never a good idea to leave bare metal exposed on your vehicle, so I'm going to take a little bit of clear spray paint, that will help seal it up and I don't have to worry about any rust or corrosion. If we come to the passenger side wheel well, we're going to notice that some of our trucks may have a liner and some of them may not. But we're going to need to make a notched section here in the liner and the piece of metal behind it in order to get our braces in place. If we find our joust stop on our frame and we go directly up, I'm going to mark out a notch right here. I'm going to do it in triangle shape, roughly about a couple of inches wide, up to the top of the wheel well liner here. Now, there's a couple of different ways you can do this. You can use a pair of tin snips and just cut the liner, and then cut the metal piece behind it separately, but I'm going to be using a rotary tool, and again, I'm just going to cut the liner by itself and then come back and cut the metal. The notch we had cut out, we're going to take our forward panel here, and it's going to be the angled section that's going to have some holes, and you want to make sure that the angle is facing up and that the holes are facing toward the rear of the truck. We're going to take our bracket, we're going to slide it in between in the notch that we cut out, and we're going to want to slide it all the way in until it meets both sides of our frame rail. Now, across from our plate right here we're going to need to take a 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolt, and we're going to find the second hole from the driver's side, which should be right about here. Now, I'm going to go ahead and pass my bolt through, and I'm going to take a rubber O ring that's provided in our kit, and I'm going to slide that O ring as close as I can to the bracket itself, just so that my bolt won't fall out. With that in place we're going to want to slide our bracket as far forward as we can right now, and we're going to go past the hole that we have drilled out, and we're going to want to go as far forward as we can. Now we can take our rear cross-member section and if you'll notice, we're going to have several threaded holes going across it. When we slide this bar in place we're going to want to make sure the holes are closest to the frame since they are slightly offset. Now it may be a little difficult to slide it in vertically, so I'm going to put it in horizontally, slide it across till it's reaching both sides of the frame. Now, in order to get our cross-member rotated into the correct position we're going to take a pair of channel locks so we can grab it and rotate it to the way we need it, making sure that the holes are slightly closer to the frame since they are slightly offset. We're going to slide this support back right now, if possible. We're going to need to put a lifting device in place, because when we put our center section in we're going to need to have it supported so that we can bolt it up to our front and rear cross-member sections. Then we're ready to put our center section in place. Now, we're going to want to make sure that the offset of the hole is towards the back of the truck and that the handle over here is towards driver's side. You're goin to want to slide it over the exhaust, and we're going to have some lines in the way. I'm going to have to move them out of the way a little bit. We can slide the center section as close as we can to our lifting device. On our front cross-member section we're going to want to slide it and line it up with the holes on our center section, and then we're going to want to rotate it so that we can allow it to stand up and so that bolt that we installed previously with the O ring, it pokes through the center section. We can take another one of our 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolts, and I'm going to slide it through my cross member and the center section, and I'm going to follow it up with a 1/2 inch lock washer, and then I'm going to come back and I'm going to take a 1/2 inch nut, secure it hand tight for right now. Now, we're going to repeat this for all the remaining holes that are in our cross member section and the center section on the front side. Now, for the rear cross member section we're going to start sliding it towards our center section, and we're going to try to line it up as close with the holes as we can. Now we're going to come back and we're going to take a 1/2 inch by two inch bolt and from the inside we're going to thread it from the inside of our center section and we're going to come out and thread it into our cross member here, and we're going to start with our 2 1/2 inch bolt, follow with the 1/2 inch lock washer, and then finally we're going to follow it again with the 1/2 inch flat washer before we come from the inside and start threading it in place. Now it may take a little bit of adjustment to get it lined up. Once we do we can start putting our bolts in hand tight. We're going to repeat that for all the other remaining holes in our center section. We can get ready to put our side plates in place, and we're going to want to make sure that the two tabs on our side plate are going to go in between the two cross member sections on the front and the back. We can line up the tabs and rotate it so it's sitting against our frame, and you'll notice that the two holes are going to line up with the couple of threaded holes in the frame, and we're going to be using the existing weld nuts to attach it. We're going to take out 16 millimeter cap bolts followed by a 5/8 lock washer, and then finally followed by a 5/8 flat washer, and that's the combination we're going to be using to bolt it to our frame. We can just line up the holes with our bracket and the threaded holes in our frame, and we're just going to throw these in hand tight for right now. Now on the front and the back, those tabs that are in between our cross member sections, we're going to take one of our 1/2 inch by one and a 1/2 inch bolts and we're going to slide it all the way through. Coming from the front of our cross member section we're going to take our bolt and slide it all the way through the slide plate as well. We're going to come back with a 1/2 inch flat washer followed by a 1/2 inch lock washer and then finally going to secure it down with a 1/2 inch nut. Again, we're just going to leave everything hand tight for right now. Now, the ear on the back of our side plate, it is going to be going into a threaded hole on the rear cross member here. We're going to take another one of our 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolts, but this time we're going to follow it up with a 1/2 inch lock washer and then we're going to follow it up with a 1/2 inch flat washer. We're going to line up the holes in our brackets and we're going to thread it into place, again only doing it hand tight for right now. Once we have all the bolts in on this side we're going to repeat the same process for the other side as well. I'm going to come back and using a 3/4 inch socket and I'm going to tighten all my 1/2 inch hardware on my center section. We're going to repeat that for all the remaining hardware. We're going to find the torque specs in our instructions. Using a 24 millimeter socket I'm going to torque down the 16 millimeter bolts that are holding my side plate to the frame. We'll go ahead and repeat that for all the 16 millimeter bolts. Now, using a 3/4 inch socket I'm going to torque down my 1/2 inch bolts that are securing my side plate to the cross members. We're going to repeat that for all the other 1/2 inch hardware. You just want to keep in mind when you go to tighten the furthest front 1/2 inch bolt you will need to use a 3/4 inch wrench and socket. We can get ready to put our handle in place, and this is what's going to unlatch and latch our locking mechanism for the ball that's going to be installed in the bed. Now, there is a notch on the side plate, but as you can see our fender liner's going to get in the way. I'm going to make a rough estimate of where it needs to be, and I'm going to make a small cut, just enough so that my handle can come through. I'm going to pull it away slightly, and I'm just going to make a small section cut out, and more of just a relief so that I can get my handle in place and we can trim it up the rest of the way once we make sure that's where it needs to be. It looks like it's in the right area, so we can just cut that hole a little bit wider. Now our handle should be able to slide in there easily. I'm going to go ahead and put the handle and slide it all the way in, now we can go underneath and start attaching it. There is a notch in the center section that if the handle didn't get through, you're going to need to push it back out and make sure that it's going through this small hole here. If we come to the latch itself, I'll go ahead and push my handle out of the way, and I'm going to bring my latching mechanism back and lock it open, and we'll see that there's a square hole. Now, we're going to need to line up our handle with the hole. Coming from the back side where the square hole it, I'm going to take my carriage bolt that's supplied in my kit and I'm going to put it through the hole in my latching mechanism and the handle, making sure it goes through both and then I'm going to come back with a phalange nut and secure it on the back side. I'm going to come back, using a 1/2 inch wrench, and I'm going to tighten up that nut on the back of my carriage bolt. Now you may need to have a little bit of patience, but when you begin to tighten this you're going to want to put a slight amount of pressure, pushing that bolt into the square hole so they can gauge it and not just spin. When we tighten this up we don't need to go crazy, we just want it nice and snug. Now on the underside of our hitch here we're going to have four holes, two on each side of our receiver tube where the ball goes. We're going to need to drill these out to a 1/2 inch, because that's where we're going to be installing our safety chain loops. So coming from the underside of the bed, we're going to take a 1/2 inch drill bit and I'm going to drill up through the bed. We're going to repeat that for the other three holes as well. In our kit we're going to have a couple of U bolts and we're going to take them and we're just going to drop them straight down the holes that we just drilled. Here's where our safety chain loops fell down, and I'm going to take the spring they provide us in our kit and I'm going to slide it over one end of the U bolt and then I'm going to take my 1/2 inch lock nut they provide in the kit and I'm going to thread it on hand tight. We can go ahead and do the same thing for the other side of our U bolt. I'm going to come back using a 3/4 inch socket and we're going to tighten that nut until it's nice and flush with the bottom of the bolt. We're going to repeat that for all the remaining, so when we're done it should look like this. We can take our ball now, and you've got to make sure that that latch is released so that it's completely open and we can take our ball, line it up with the hole and we can drop it down. Now if we move to the driver's side wheel well area we can latch it into place. So we come to the handle, we can release it and it will make sure the ball is nice and secure. We can go ahead and put our shield back in place, and that will finish up our look at the B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck trailer hitch, part number BWGNRK1016 on our 2017 GMC Sierra 3500.


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