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B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install a B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 GMC Sierra 2500

Ryan: How's it going Ryan here at etrailer.Com.Today on our 2019 GMC Sierra 2500 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the B&W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with a custom installation kit.Being that this is an underbed kit, all of our main components are going to be located here on the underside of our truck. Which in turn means we're going to have full bed access here up top. We're not going to have any rails or hardware taking up space. That's going to be espuseful when we're working around a job site, maybe throwing a few motorcycles in the back of the truck, or even some luggage when we we're taking the family on vacation.The ball is going to be 2-5/16 on an inch and it is a turnover ball. So what that means is when we're not using it, you can pull it out, flip it over, and actually store it inside of the hitch. That way we don't have to worry about losing it or have it rolling around in the back seat of our truck.

This can also easily be converted over to the fifth wheel using the B&W companion. Which more or less it's an adapter that goes in here. That way if you've got multiple trailers, some are goosenecks, some are fit fields you'll be able to tow all of them with one kit.This is going to have a gross towing weight capacity of 30,000 pounds. That's going to be the amount of weight pulling on the hitch. So that's a weight of your trailer plus anything you might have on it.

It's going to have a vertical load limit of 7,500 pounds. That's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the hitch. I do want to point out, it's never a bad idea to check with your truck's owner's manual to make sure you can pull that much weight.You're going to have some spring loaded safety chain hooks, which are really easy to pull up when you need them and you'll have more than enough room to use just about any size hook. However, when you're not using them they're going to sit nice and flush against the bottom of the bed. Since they're spring loaded, you're really not going to have to worry about them rattling and making a bunch of noise.Now one of the big differences I noticed about this kit in comparison to some of the others is the craftsmanship.

The overall quality of the brackets are very nice and heavy duty. Everything fits really well, which in turn makes your overall experience much better. This is one I'd personally recommend to my friends and family.Another advantage I noticed this one has is how easy the handle is to use. It doesn't take much effort at all to pull it out, turn it to the left a little and that'll lock it into place. Some of the other ones they're a little more flimsy.

They're much harder to keep locked in place and overall you just kind of have to fight with them a little more.When the handle is pushed completely in that means that it's in the lock position. And if you want to remove your ball or flip it over all you would do is pull out, turn it to the left a little and that'll lock it in that open possession so you then can go in the bed, do what you need to do with the ball. Then when you're ready to lock it again simply just pull towards you a little bit, turn it back to the right and let it go back into place.And since everything does fit so nice many of our customers said they didn't really have any issues at all getting the hitch installed. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put it on together now.To begin our install, I went ahead and removed our spare tire just to give us a little bit more room to work. To make our install a little bit easier we're going to remove our wheel well liner. Now this is going to be held in place with multiple T15 tors bit screws just like this. We'll have a couple on this flat portion and the rest will be all along the wheel well edge.Once all the screws are removed you can kind of grab the edge of the liner and just work it out from underneath the truck. We'll set it off to the side and then repeat this same process over on the other side.Now, underneath the truck you come over to the passenger side we're going to have a heat shield that we need to remove. Now it's going to be held in place by four 13 millimeter bolts. We're going to have one right here on the top. You're going to have one back here on top, and then on the frame rail we're going to have two. One here and one a little closer to the front of the truck.Here's a better look at the two 13 millimeter bolts holding that heat shield to the top of the frame rail. So it's a lot easier to come over here to the passenger side wheel well and get them from here. With all the bolts removed we can now go back under the truck and take out our heat shield. Now we're able to snake our heat shield out from underneath.So now we can hop up in the bed of the truck. We're going to take a few measurements which are found in the instructions to find where we need to drill our hole. Now whenever you're measuring the length, it's very important to measure from the actual bed itself and not the tailgate. Once you find the length you're going to want to find the center of the bed. So what you can do is measure the distance in between the wheel wells, divide it by two, and that'll give you your center. Now where those two lines intersect, that's where you're going to want to make a mark and then we can start to drill it out.We're going to first start by using a small drill bit to make a pilot hole. And then we're able to step up to our hole saw to make our full size hole. Once you drill their hole out it's a good idea to take a file and just kind of work the edges around the hole to clean up any burrs. Now we'll go ahead and vacuum up all of our metal shavings.Now what I like to do just to help prevent any rust or corrosion since we do have a little bit of exposed metal, is just use some clear spray paint and cover that metal up.Now if you come over here to the passenger side wheel well we're going to have to cut a small opening here along this pinch weld to allow us enough room to get our cross members in and out. Now you can find the exact measurements for how large you need to make this hole in your instructions. I'm going to cut it using a Dremel tool. However, you could probably use a pair of tin snips as well.Now I went ahead and used the file again to kind of sand down those sharp edges and hit it with some clear spray paint to help keep that bare metal protected.Now we can put in our front cross member, which will be this piece of angle iron. We're going to do this from the passenger side of the truck through that cutout that we made in the wheel well. Now you're going to want these holes, the side with the holes, you're going to want this to face towards the back of the truck. Now before we put this in there is one thing we have to do, and if we come up to this hole here, the second one from the driver's side end, we're going to put a bolt in place. So we're going to take this bolt from the backside, slide it through. Then we're going to take the included o-ring and work that over the bolt. This of-ring will actually hold that bolt in place. It'll make it a lot easier when we bolt everything up later on because this bolt is a little tricky to get to underneath the truck. Once we have it and we're going to go ahead and slide our angle on the frame rail, and we're going to slide it all the way across to the driver's side. And then we're going to slide this back, or towards the front of the truck rather. We're going to go about six inches past the hole that we drilled in the bed.Now before we put our rear crossmember into place, there's a little trick I like to show you to make installation later a lot easier. Since this is powder-coated sometimes that powder coating can get down into the threaded holes and make it difficult to tighten up your bolts. So what I like to do before we put it under the truck is actually just kind of spray each one of the holes down with some lubricant. Take one of our bolts and make sure it threads in nice and easily. That way it'll clean whatever powder coating may be in there. Save you a lot of time and headache in the future. I'm going to do that for all of the holes in our crossmember.The holes on our rear crossmember are going to be offset. What I mean by that is these aren't going to be dead center in the middle of our bar. What we're going to do when we put this in is make sure that the holes are offset on the side that's closest to the edge here and those are going to face like this. Those are going to sit down towards the frame. What we'll do is slide this in. Go all the way across to the other frame rail. We're going to stand it up vertically like this up against this factory bed crossmember. Now, if you're having a little bit of trouble getting this to stand up what we can do is go underneath the bed and I'll show you a trick to make it a lot easier to get to stand up right.We'll take an adjustable wrench put it around our crossmember and that'll give us the leverage that we need to stand it up right. We're going to take this and push it flat against our bed support.Now we can take our center section and put that into place. Now you notice where our ball goes. This is going to be offset towards the one side and we're going to make sure that the side closest to the edge here is facing towards the back of the truck.Now we can go ahead and lift the center section up into place. What we're going to do is line up our front crossbar. For now we're just going to loosely secure it. We'll put in the inch and a half bolt through the front to the back. We're going to secure the other side with a split lock washer and a nut. I'll use that same hardware to get the rest of the holes in our center section started and hand tight.So now I came up here into the bed of our truck and made an apparatus that's going to help hold our hitch flat against the bed as well as keep it centered in our hole. So I did two big locks, two by four cross and I just have your typical tow strap. Put one hook down in the hitch where the pin comes through. Wrapped it around the board, connected the other hook to that same pin and then you're able to pull the slack out and that'll pull your hitch up and you're able to move it side to side and front and back and get it nice and centered.So now what we can do is loosely secure our rear crossmember to our center section. The hardware that we're going to use to do that are these two inch bolts. We'll put on a split lock washer followed by a flat washer. I'm just going to get all these hand tight. I'm going to use that same hardware combination for the remaining holes here.Now we can install our side plates. We're going to start over here on the passenger side. Now you can identify the passenger side by this piece of metal here. The side that's a little bit center that's going to point towards the rear of the truck. And how this is going to work is that these angles are going to fit in between our crossmembers. And then these holes in the side plate are going to line up with factory threaded holes in our frame rail. So we'll get those hand tight. What we're going to do to secure those is use a large bolt, a split lock washer and a flat washer. Just line it up, just get a couple threads started. You can do the same thing with this hole here. Same hardware.Now we're going to secure our side plate to our rear crossmember. So to do that we'll take an inch and a half bolt, a split lock washer followed by a flat washer. We're going to come in from this side and just thread it in hand tight.To secure our side plate to our front crossmember what we're going to do is take an inch and a half bolt and from the front of the truck run it through. We're going to put on a flat washer, a split lock washer, and finally just to nut and get that hand tight for now too.With all of our hardware in place and hand tight now would be a good time to hop up in the bed of the truck and make sure everything is still centered.Now we can come underneath and tighten up all of our hardware that's connecting our center section to our crossmembers.Now we'll come over to our side plate and tighten down our two larger bolts first. And then we're going to tighten down our hardware that's holding our side plate to our crossbeams. And we'll repeat that same process over here on the driver's side.Now with all of our hardware tight, you can use a torque wrench to torque it all down to the specifications found in the instructions. Now it is important to torque all the hardware down in the same order that we use to tighten them.Now we're going to install our handle. So to do this we'll take the handle and the end here with the rubber on it. We're going to slide that through this little slot here on the driver's side. We're going to push at all the way back. We're going to take the end here with the loop and that's going to connect to this tab here that's attached to our spring. To secure it, we're going to use this carriage bolt.On the other side I'm going to secure it using the the flange nut.Now I'll go ahead and snug it down using a half inch wrench.Now we can drill out our holes for our safety chain loops. Underneath here on each side, we're going to have two holes in the hitch. One here and one there. We're going to use those as a template and use a drill bit to drill up through the bed.Now I'm just going to repeat that same process for the three remaining holes.After we drill our holes from underneath so you can come back up in the bed, vacuum up our metal shavings that we made. And once again, use a little spray paint to cover up that bare metal. Once that's done we can take our safety chain U-bolts and drop them into place. Make sure that they go up and down freely.Now back underneath we can put our springs on our safety chain U-bolts. So what we're going to do is take the spring, run it over the U-bolt. We're going to take a nut and get it started. Go ahead and do the same thing for the other side. Now we can tighten these down. We're going to tighten them down until the bottom of the nut is flush with the bottom of the bolt. Just like that. Now I'm going to repeat that same exact process over on the other side for the other U-bolt.Now at this point, we're able to reinstall our wheel well liners. Just work these back in place and re-secure them using the factory hardware.Once you get the driver's side wheel well back in, you're going to notice that it's going to block our handle. So what I'm going to do is just mark out a little area here and cut that out. That way it'll give us the clearance we need to easily operate our handle.Now to cut this, I'm just going to use some tin snips. But it is relatively thin, almost like a cardboard material. So you could use a sharp utility knife or even a Dremel tool.Now to complete your installation all we have to do now is reinstall our spare tire.And that'll finish up our look at and our installation of the B&W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with the custom installation kit on our 2019 GMC Sierra 2500.

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