bing tracking image

B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit Installation - 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

content loading

Customers compare BWGNRK1020-5W to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install the B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit on a 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500


Hey, everybody, how's it going Today, we're gonna be going over and showing you how to install the B&W Turnoverball underbed gooseneck trailer hitch here on our 2022 Chevrolet Silverado 3500. This fifth wheel installation kit is designed to let you install your B&W companion fifth-wheel trailer hitches. The under-bed design of this kit allows for full truck-bed access when you're ready. It's under five minutes to convert your empty truck-bed into a fifth-wheel hitch. We'll start by unlocking our B&W hitch and installing our fifth-wheel adapter. We have ours preassembled, but you can adjust the uprights here depending on your truck and trailer combination.

At this point, the hitch is ready to attach to the trailer. There's a little clip here that you can release, basically, it's a safety pin. Then you can swing the handle out and you can watch the jaws open. You're ready to back in your trailer now. Once you're secure under the trailer, you can reinstall the clip.

Since the fifth-wheel installation kit doubles as a gooseneck hitch, when you're not towing your fifth wheel, you can remove it, turn it over, and we can store it upside down on the hitch. That way, we'll have full bed access. So on either side of the opening here, we're gonna have our U-bolts. So these U-bolts are gonna be designed for use with our safety chains. Now, these U-bolts are nice and wide, so we can really get those large clevis hooks on there, and they're spring loaded, meaning they will retract back into the bed when we're done using them.

And overall, just the way they set up here in the bed, installed in the corrugations, they really just make a very clean look here. You don't have to worry about them sticking up from the corrugations, catching on items you would put in the bed. Overall, it's just a very clean design, easy to use. So inside the driver wheel well here, we're gonna see we have our handle so this handle is used to engage and release that pin holding the hitch ball in place. It's very easy to use.

We just simply pull out and rotate to lock it open. This is going to allow us to change our hitch ball out. You can move it and turn it upside down, and then we're ready to re-secure it. We'll just simply pull back, rotate, and let it depress into the truck bed. So the first step of our installation, we need to determine the correct place for our hitch ball hole. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna take a tape measure here and we're gonna be measuring from the back lip of our bed here, so usually, you're gonna start out on the center channel here so if you just count over, you're gonna have the same number on each side. This is gonna be our center channel so we're just gonna simply take our tape measure and hook onto the end of the bed there, then we're gonna measure forward to a point specified in your instructions so that point is gonna vary depending on your bed length. There's gonna be a specific measurement for the long bed models and the short bed models. So this is going tell us pretty much how far into the truck bed we need to be drilling this way. The next thing we need to do is we need to measure between our wheel wells and divide by two, and the point where those two lines intersect is gonna be the point that we need to drill. So keep in mind, this is using a bare truck bed here, we don't have a spray-in bed-liner or a drop-in bed-liner. If you have one of those, you're gonna need to take those into considerations when you're measuring, especially the spray-in bed-liner. For a drop-in bed-liner, you can still do it with the bed-liner in place but I recommend just removing it so you can get a nice and precise measurement. So we've got our center point marked here. I just use a spring loaded punch to identify that. If you guys have a marker, you can draw an X there, really whatever works best for you. But once we have that point identified, we're ready to start drilling. So we're gonna need to grab a four inch hole saw bit and just be very careful here. You don't want the drill bit walking on us. I'm gonna get down there as close as I can so I can see the drill bit sort of sit within that dibbit I made. So now that we have our hole drilled, go ahead and clean up the truck bed a little bit. Get all those metal shavings out of there so you're not scratching up the bed floor any more than you have to. But now that that's done, we're gonna take a file here. We're just going to clean up all those rough edges inside here. If you have a sandpaper, really anything you have just to get rid of all those burrs so it's not so sharp. Now that we have all those burrs out of there, we're gonna take a clear coat paint, if you had a paint marker or some spray paint, really, whatever you have. We just want to coat that bare metal that we just exposed. So now that we have our hole drilled and all cleaned up, we're gonna come to either side here directly above the rear wheels, we're gonna have this wheel well liner here, this fabric. This is gonna get in the way, so we need to go ahead and fold this up to give ourselves a little bit more room to work. So in order to do that, we have three torque screws here that we need to remove with a T15 torx bit. And again, we need to do this on both sides. So once we get those three screws out, we should just be able to fold the liner out in a way to give us some more room to work. We don't have to remove it completely. We're just gonna be folding it out just like that. So now the next thing we need to do, we need to lower our spare tire so in order to do that, we're gonna be grabbing the emergency key off our key fob coming here to the rear of the vehicle in the bumper, undo that little flap there. Now, if we insert our key into that lock core there and turn it, we should be able to pull the lock core out and then we can fit our spare tire removal tool inside there and lower the winch holding our spare tire up in place. Now, we're gonna be using a tool we have around the shop here that's designed for this, but the tools you need to do this are actually located inside your vehicle. If you need help with that, make sure you refer to your owner's manual. So now that we have our spare tire out, we need to come underneath the vehicle here. Now, we need to remove the heat shield that was surrounding our spare tire. This is what it looks like here. So it was going to be two fasteners holding this in place. They're actually kind of hidden behind there. Because there's gonna be one here, one over here. We're gonna use a 13 millimeter socket along with some extensions so we can get those out. So now, we have another heat shield we need to remove. It's gonna be this one here, directly over the rear axle over here on the passenger side. So there's actually several fasteners holding this in place. We're gonna use that same 13 millimeter socket we used earlier, but with a wrench. And if it has a flexible head, that's gonna be best because these are again, pretty hard to get to. So we're gonna have several of those fasteners up at the top, securing it to the frame and the cross-member so we need to go ahead and remove those off. So we've got our four bolts removed holding on our heat shield. So now you should just be able to slide it out of position just like so. You can see the location of the four holes, one here, two on the side, one back at the top. Now, we'll say, for these two holes here, it's actually a little bit easier to access them from outside of the frame and the wheel well. So now, we're gonna do some assembly outside the vehicle. Before we jump back under there. First thing we're gonna do is we're gonna grab a cross-member. So we need to look inside this cross-member and take note of the welded seam there. But once we note the location, we're gonna come back and grab one of our corner brackets here that looks like this, and we're gonna attach the corner bracket to the cross member here with the welded seam facing down. So how this attaches is, you're pretty much just gonna line up the holes of the cross member inside the slotted holes of the corner bracket. Now, I will say that you want the holes to be relatively center in the corner bracket. You can see the holes here are rather precise, whereas the holes here are oblong. So you want to make sure you're in the center of that bracket as best as possible. But once we've done that, we're gonna take our hex bolts here, we're gonna secure the cross-member So the bracket, You have two bolts total. Go ahead and tighten them as much as you can now by hand. Then we're going to come back with a 24 millimeter socket and 24 millimeter wrench. So we can torque these to the specifications, provided in your instructions. Now, keep in mind. You want to make sure that this tubing here stays flush to the bottom of the bracket. We don't want it to have any gap whatsoever in there. So just to keep mind to that when you're tightening everything down. And the torque spec for these is rather high. So you may need someone else to sort of hold the bracing for you while you're tightening it down. So we've got it torqued down and if we take a closer look inside our corner bracket here, you can see the cross-member is flush to the bottom there there's no gap whatsoever, which is what we're looking for. So now we're going to take our assembly. We're going to set it into position on the truck. So we're going to take the end without a corner bracket, we're going to be placing that up and over the exhaust. We're going to shove it as far back as we can towards the shock tower mount. Now, once we do this, we're actually going to rotate this up and over that brake line bracket until it's setting on the frame rail. And then we're going to prop this other side up on the exhaust, just like so. so now we're going to take another corner bracket here. We're going to install it onto our forward cross member assembly. So we're just going to come between the frame and the exhaust here. Keep in mind, this side needs to be out facing the frame. So as you can see here we've got our corner bracket into position on the cross-member. So I was struggling with it quite a bit when the exhaust was just in the factory hanger. So what I did is just to make things a little bit easier. I just pried this hanger free from this isolator. That's going to give you enough room to sort of just move the exhaust over this way a little bit. And then you can sneak your corner bracket into position. So I have got them before with the exhaust in the factory location, but for some particular reason, this one was fighting me a little bit more. So we went ahead and took the extra time just to remove that one hanger there, and now we we're much more easily able to get that corner bracket into position. But once we have it there pretty much just gonna repeat the same steps as we did on the other side, install your hex bolt to join the two together. I will say, though, for this one, you just want to leave this one hand tight, we do need to make some adjusting So don't torque it down quite yet. So now we're going to partially assemble our rear cross-member just as we did for the front one. But you want to make sure that we leave these nuts loose here. Whereas the front one, we went ahead and torqued them down on the table. These we are actually going to leave loose for now. So now we'll take our rear cross member assembly and just go ahead and set it into position under the vehicle. Very similar to how we did with the forward most one, we're just going to prop it up on one side. And then rest it over the exhaust until we can get other our other corner bracket on. So the instructions don't really specify which is the correct way, but I just want to make sure that our bolts are facing the same way on each cross-member. If we look on this side we can see the nuts are facing towards the bumper. So I'm just going to mirror that on this side. But again, I really don't think it matters. I just like everything to match between the two cross-members. So now we're ready to partially assemble our center section here. Now we have it flipped over cause we need to install the latch handle. So this can actually be installed on either side here. So we do need to pay special attention to the instructions for these steps here, because we don't want to install it on the wrong side. We want our latching mechanism to be on the driver's side, but there are a couple of variances depending on if we have a longer or short bed model. So what I recommend doing is I'm going to install the latching mechanism over here, because this is where I believe it goes, but I'm actually just going to sort of hold this up to the vehicle. That way I can line up the bed channel with the cut-out in this intersection. So I know I'm on the correct side, so that's what I recommend you guys to do as well. But again, you want to pay special attention to your instructions for this step here. So you can get the latching mechanism on the right side. Now we can do it one way, but it could be different depending on your bed configuration. So make sure you do pay attention to those. We'll just go ahead and mock this up as best as I can. We do have that cut-out in the center section for the bed channel. So I know that's going to go to the rear here, on the long bed model. And now I can see, I have my latching mechanism over on the driver's side. So now that we know which side to install the latching mechanism on, we're going to go ahead and secure it to the center section. So we're going to take our five, 16 inch by one inch carriage bolts and insert the carriage bolt through the top and secure it with our flange nut. You have one on each side, we'll take a half inch socket and wrench and tighten those down. Now that we have the mechanisms secured to the center section, we're going to pull out and rotate on this little rod just like that. And now we can install our handle. So you want to make sure that this end of the handle is facing down. On this side here we're going to come back with our carriage bolt. So this one's a little bit shorter. This is a three quarter inch, but it's still that same five 16th inch diameter as the ones we just installed. And well again, we'll use a half inch socket to tighten this down. So now we're just about ready to lift the center section up into position. So we're going to take our washer plates here, along with our hex bolts. We're going to place them through the washer plate, just like so, and then we're going to install them into the outside face of the cross-member with the threads facing in. So here's the rear cross member assembly, bind everything up and push it in, just as we see here. Now we're going to do that same thing for the forward cross-member assembly as well. So we've got both of our washer plates installed. Now we're going to push our cross-member assemblies as far forward and as far rear as will go. So we can give ourselves more room to set the center section into position. So what we're going to do is if you have an extra set of hands, that's going to help, but we're just going to raise the center section into position. We're going to line up the indentation in the cross-member or the indentation in the center section with the hole that we cut in the bed. And then while we're holding it up, we're going to slide each of our cross member assemblies together. And it's going to hold the center section, using those bolts that we just installed. So you will have to come up and over the driver's side, first due to that latching handle. So we've got the center section lined up with the hole in the bed. We have both of the cross-members securing it. So now we should have four flange nuts left. We're just going to go ahead and thread them onto the bolts that are going between the cross-member and the center section. So some of them are pretty tight due to that bed channel there. You may need to actually unthread the bolt there from the cross-member. Then you can thread it back in once you get your nut on there. So the next thing we need to do is we're going to be securing those corner brackets that we pointed out earlier. So in order to do that, you're going to grab a couple of the M14 hex nuts that come in your kit and you're going to come inside the wheel well here, you're going to have to peel back the liner, just like so. So here's our two cross sections here. What we're going to do next is we're going to be securing the corner brackets to the threaded holes in the frame. You can see we already have the front one secure. So we're just going to repeating that same thing for the rear one, using the M 14 hex bolts that come in your kit. So this can be kind of challenging because we have to line everything up without really being able to see. So there's going to be a lot of adjusting these cross members back and forth side to side in order to get the oblong holes to line up with these threads in the frame. Once you get one side on it's a little easier, but we just have to be careful not to strip the holes in the frame either you don't want to cross thread them, unfortunately, with these Chevy's, they use a lot of the gunk, this grease, if you will, to protect the frame. And if you get enough of that into the threaded holes there, it can really give you some trouble when you're trying to thread in your bolts. So we've got one started there. We'll go ahead and do this other one. So one side is pretty easy. It's when you get one side secure and try to secure the other side, that you're really going to struggle with it. So we got these two in now we're just going to do that same thing on the other side and again, you're going to have to move these cross-members back and forth side to side and line everything up, but we are just going to start hand threading those bolts in a couple of turns. We're not going to tighten them all the way down just yet. So now we're ready to tighten down all of our hardware. Before we do that, we do need to find a way to lift the center section up, flush to the bottom of the bed there. So there's a number of different things we can use. We actually have a device specifically for this. So it's going to make things a little bit easier, but what I've done in the past, did you guys have a long block of wood or a long two by four, that you can stick your across your bed rails there. And then you pretty much just use a ratchet strap to hook on to the pin inside the gooseneck. And you tighten that, that's going to pull up. If you have some Jack stands with a couple blocks of wood really anything you can think of just to put some upward pressure there on that center section before we tighten down our hardware. So now we're ready to start torquing. So the first bolts that we need to torque are the four, five eights inch bolts, which secure the cross-member to the center section. So two on this side, two on that side, the torque specifications are found in your instructions. We're going to be using a 24 millimeter socket and wrench to tighten these down. So if you have a set of these ratcheting wrenches, that's certainly going to help you. A lot of these bolts are very hard to get tools on. So just going to make it easier for you guys in the long run. I'm going to run through all these and tighten them with my two wrenches and then I'll come back with my torque wrench. So the next day we're going to do is we're going to be tightening the M14 bolts that hold the quarter brackets to the frame. We're going to have four of them on each side for this, you're going to need an 18 millimeter socket and wrench. I'm going to use a wrench to sort of tighten them down until I get them to where they're snug. And then I'll come back with a socket and torque from the spec, keep in mind before specs are these bolts are different than the five eights we just torqued out. So we got both of the fasteners on the outside, snugged down. Now we weren't able to fit a torque wrench in there. I couldn't fit my half inch torque wrench in there and I couldn't fit my three eight inch torque wrench in there. So you really don't have a whole lot of other options here. I tried to use a crow's foot adapter, but the drive size was a three eight so that's going to limit us on our torque there. And those are really kind of hard to use in general, especially in that small space there. Although I can't recommend this, we're just going to be tightening these fasteners as best as we can here. I went ahead and used a cheater bar on my 18 entrance there just to get a good amount of torque on there. But again, just try to do your best job to get them tightened down as much as you can. So now we're going to come back under the truck here. We have six more hex bolts to tighten down. So these are going to be the ones attaching the corner brackets to the cross-members. So the next thing we're going to do, we're going to come into the driver wheel well here. So we need to go ahead and make a relief cut here in this fender liner so we can allow access to our handle to pull out. So in your instructions, you're going to get a little diagram. They tell you to take sort of this triangle out here, keep in mind, there's going to be two different measurements, depending on if you have a long or a short bed, but once we get a rough sketch of the material we need to remove, we are going to come back here, do the best we can to remove that. Scissors work all right but, I think when we get closer up here, we're going to need some tin snips. Yeah, those cut much better. Now we'll just finish making our cut out here and then we can test our handle. So we've got everything cut out here just to go ahead and test it out. Go ahead and reach in here, pull our handle, rotate to lock it open. You can see here there's plenty of room to get your hand in and out of there. Now, if you find yourself hitting your hand on the outside of this fabric here, it is kind of sharp. So you may need to trim a little bit more, your sort of test fit for your application. So final thing here, we need to drill out the holes in the bed that lineup with these safety chain cutouts here in our center section. So we're going to have two holes on each side. We need to drill these out. I recommend starting by the bottom and just sort of getting your pilot there. Then if you need, you can switch over to a smaller drill bit and you work your way up, but you will need an 11, 16 inch drill bit regardless. So now we're just going to line up with one of the two holes on either side here and begin drilling through. So we've got our holes drilled through the bottom of the truck bed. Now I understand not everyone has an 11, 16 inch drill bit. And if that's the case, you can still get to the final size you need using a step drill bit. It's just not going to be as clean because we're not going to be able to get that exact size, but we will be able to get it large enough to stick our safety chain loops through. So that side is going to come up top here at the step drill bit and carefully enlarge the holes to the final size they need to be just drill out a little bit on each side and test fit your bolt. So we've got our holes open up the size here. Just go ahead and test fit our U-bolt, as you can see there, it's a great fit. I'm going to go ahead and sweep of all this extra metal. So again, we don't scratch the truck bed any more than we have to. I'm also going to take a file or a step drill bit actually works really good as well to clean up all the burrs. Assuming you weren't using that already, but just go ahead and just clean up all that metal. And then we'll again, take some sort of paint stick here to cover all that so we don't have to worry about rust. We got these two out. We're going to go ahead and drill the other two out, put our U-bolts in and then we'll show you how to secure them underneath. Now that we have both of the holes to the final size here, make sure we go ahead and come back with a paint marker here. Just cover all that bare metal as best we can. So now that we have our U-bolts installed, we're going to come back with our conical Springs, place that over one leg of the U-bolt and then thread on our hex nut. You got to do that same thing on the other side as well. And then we'll tighten down that hex nut there. And so it's plus at the end of the U-bolt there, that's all we need to tighten it. And you're going to need to grab the fifteen, sixteen inch socket in order to tighten those nuts. So now we've got these safety chain U-bolts tightened and torqued down. So that's going to do it today. Just make sure you re-install all the components that you removed earlier. The heat shields, raise the spare tire back up. And that's it for our look and installation of the B&W turnover ball gooseneck trailer hitch here on our 2022, Chevrolet Silverado 3,500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.