B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500


Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Custom Installation Kit, part number BWGNRK1016.Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. It's going to allow us to tow a gooseneck trailer down the road. Now, it is an underbed installation kit, which means it's going to go underneath the bed so it's not going to take up a whole lot of room. All we're going to have sticking out is the ball and just barely two safety chain loops right above the bed. Our safety chain loops are going to sit pretty low against the bed here, but they are spring loaded, and as you can see they're going to give us plenty of room to even get those oversized hooks in there.The hitch is going to give us a 2-5/16 ball, and unlike a lot of kits, the ball is going to have a square design to it, which is going to reduce any kind of movement or the possibility of the ball turning inside the hitch. Now, when we're not towing we do have the option to actually put the ball in upside down, and now we have full bed access and it has a nice little tab right here that we can just reach in and pull it out, and it'll be ready whenever we're ready to tow.Now, what you're really going to like about our B&W hitch here is, is that there is several different products that are available, sold separately, that are going to make it very easy to customize your hitch and make them to where they suit your needs.

Such as a fifth wheel adapter so you can tow a fifth wheel hitch, and a utility rack that's not going to take up your bed side rails. Now, our hitch is going to feature a steel construction with a nice gray powder coat finish, which is going to look nice on any truck, and it is a custom install kit, which is going to cut down a lot on our install time and we're not going to have to do any kind of welding.Another big benefit of our hitch here is unlike a lot of the older ones, the bed can stay on the truck, and we're not going to have to move it at all. Our hitch is going to feature a 7,500 pound vertical load limit, along with a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. Now, I do want to mention, you always want to double check your Silverado's owner's manual to make sure you don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation we're going to need to mark the point where we're going to be drilling a hole in our bed.

We're going to find the measurements in our instructions, and that's going to depend on what kind of bed you have, if you have a full 8 foot bed or if you have a shorter bed. We're going to measure the length right there at the edge of the tailgate. Just hook your tape measure on the edge of the bed, you don't want to go past that and go onto the tailgate itself.Once we have the length measured out, we're going to find the center point between our bed. You can just measure from wheel well to wheel well and make a mark, and where those two lines intersect, that's going to be our point that we're going to make our pilot hole. I'm going to take a rather small drill bit, I'm going to drill right in the center of those two lines as my pilot hole, and then I'm going to come back and enlarge the hole.We're going to need to cut a 4 inch hole in our bed, so I'm going to be using a hole saw.

To help me from scratching up my bed and the bit jumping around, I just took a board and I have several different holes cut in it that I just use the hole saw itself. That way, it gives you a little bit more stability, and you can stand on it and keep that bit from moving around. When you're cutting through, you're going to want to use high speed and low pressure, and it'll cut just fine. It's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your vehicle, because it leaves it open for rust and corrosion. I'm going to take a little bit of spray paint, and I'm going to spray it on the inside of the hole I cut, hopefully covering up that bare metal.If we move to our passenger side wheel well, we are going to have to remove the liner.

If we look, we're going to have these little torques bolts holding them in place. There's going to be a total of 13 of them. We're going to be using a T15 torques bit to pull them out. Once you have the bolts removed, just want to pull on the wheel well liner, start getting it loose and working it out. You may have to bend and fold it in a little bit, you can pull it out.Behind our liner we're going to notice that we got what's called a hat channel right here. That's going to be that bed support that's on top of our frame. If we just move just slightly forward right here on this flange, we're going to need to cut a small notch out so we can get our rails in place. Now, it's going to be covered up with a liner anyway, but we're going to want to have that about 2 inches wide. You can either estimate or take a tape measure, just make yourself a little mark right around 2 inches wide. You're going to want to make it about the height of the hatch handle itself. Right here at that corner we're just going to take it and we're going to cut that section out right here. It's going to make it a little bit easier to get our cross members in place.We're going to take a pair of tin snips, just want to cut straight up. It is a little bit of thick material, so it may take a little bit of force, or if you have a cutter, an electric die grinder, that'll work as well. Again, never a good idea to leave exposed metal, so we're going to take a little bit of paint and since it's going to be behind the wheel well liner, we're not so worried about the color. It'll make it a lot easier to get that cross member in place.We're going to grab our forward cross member, and it's going to be the angled piece. One side is going to be flat and then the other side is going to have kind of an elongated piece in the middle and have several holes drilled in it. When we're holding it, we want the angle to be on top like a triangle shape, and we want the holes towards the rear of our truck. We can take it, and right where we made that notch, we're going to utilize that to our advantage and now we're going to have plenty of room.As you can see, it would have bene extremely difficult if not impossible to get it in without that notch in place. It still might take a little bit of maneuvering, but we're going to slide it in until it goes all the way across to the other side of the frame. Once we have it in just behind that flange, we're going to slide it towards the front of our cab. Now, you want to make sure that both sides are moving, so you may need to go underneath the truck and slide it forward as well.Now we can take our other cross member piece, and this is just going to be a flat piece of steel with several threaded holes drilled throughout. We're going to put it in the same spot, and we're going to slide it all the way across until it spans both frame rails as well. Once it reaches that bolt and reaches the other side, just want to be careful you're not going to hit anything, and then we're going to slide it behind that bolt right here towards the back of our hatch here. Again, you may need to go to the other side and either reach underneath a liner or go underneath the truck and slide it over.Now, underneath our truck, if we take our front cross member, we're going to slide it back. We're going to take one of our 1/2 inch bolts, these are going to be the shorter ones that are going to be 1-1/2 inches long. We're going to go through the second hole on the driver side, which is going to be right before this big dip or the big flange right there. We're going to take that bolt, we're going to go through the cross member. Then on the other side we're going to take a rubber O ring and we're going to slide it around the bolt so it'll hold it in place. Now, you're going to want to push that rubber O ring as close to the cross member as you can get it so that the bolt is sticking out as far as possible. May need to turn the bolt and kind of work it around, getting each side in one inaudible 00:08:59 at a time.Before we can put our center section in place, we're going to need to remove our heat shield that's right above our axle here. I'm going to take a 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench, I'm going to remove this bolt that's right in front of the hatch handle and right by that cutout we just made. Now if we move rearward, we're going to have another bolt right behind the hatch handle that we'll have to remove as well. Now, underneath right by this cross member here, we're going to have one bolt that's on top. It we move towards the front of our cab, right on this other cross member, there's going to be another 13 millimeter bolt that we're going to need to remove before we can fully remove our heat shield.With all the bolts removed, we can go ahead and remove the heat shield. Now, that undercoating may make it a little difficult to remove, but you should just be able to pull, give it a good tug, and it'll come right out. With our rails and that bolt in place, we're going to be using a lifting device not only to make it easier for us to put that center section in place, but also so you'll be able to see what's going on. You can use an extra set of hands to help you get it up in place, but if we did that you wouldn't be able to see what's going on under there, and we want to make it as easy as possible for you to see what we're doing.For our center section, we're going to want to make sure that that hole is offset towards the rear of our truck and the handle section is towards the driver side. I'm going to take it and I'm going to put it over the exhaust on the passenger side first. Start working it over. We're going to slide it towards our back channel. Then for us, we're going to drop that lifting device down so it's coming through the gooseneck hole here. Then we can disengage the handle so that hopefully that bar will go through and then we can go back up top and start drawing that bolt so it'll lift it up.We want it to where it's not going to fall and it's up close enough to where we can start lining everything up, but you still want to be able to move it to where you have a little bit of room, so we're going to need to rotate this bar so the holes will line up with our center section. Now with our rear cross member, you'll notice that the holes are closer to one side than the other. We're going to want them closest to the bottom. When we rotate this, you want to rotate it so that the holes are going to be closer to the bottom of our cross member, rather than rotating it the other way.Now, the easiest way I found is if we kind of slide our cross member forward a little bit so we can get a pair of channel locks, pliers or something like that and we can get a grip on it, because there is a limited space under here. Get a grip on it and we can grab it and start rotating it, and kind of prying it until it fits vertically. If you get it part of the way and your pliers get in the way, grab a pry bar or whatever you have available, but you're just going to want to get that cross member rotated all the way. If you can fit an adjustable wrench in there, it may make it a little bit easier because once you get it right before you get in the vertical position it's going to want to fight you, but if you just keep pushing and snap it into place, it should go in.You're going to want to push up on your center section and keep it nice and tight against the bed, or if you're using a lifting device or an extra set of hands, you're going to want them to push it up and keep it nice and snug. Then we can move to our forward cross member and we're going to rotate it so that the holes are going to be towards the rear of the truck, and since they line up with the rest of the holes in our cross member, and that bolt should line up and go through. To help it keep it in place, we're going to take more of those 1/2 inch by 1-1/2 inch bolts and we're going to start securing them going through the cross members and the center section.Now, there's going to be a total of four in the center section here on this side. We're going to have the one that we had the O ring through, and then the three working our way towards the passenger side. Once we have the bolts through, we're going to take a 1/2 inch lock washer, we're going to slide that on the inside. Then we're going to secure it down with a 1/2 inch nut. We're going to repeat that for all of our hardware going through the center section here. Right now, we just need to get them hand tight so the cross member's are going to be nice and snug up against the center section.Now, the rear cross members going to be the same, but since it has those threaded holes, we're going to take our 1/2 inch bolt and we're going to follow it up with a 1/2 inch lock washer. We're going to go through our center section and we're going to thread it into the cross member here. You may need to kind of start the bolt through the center section a little bit first, and kind of look, that way we can line up the rear cross member and snug them down. Again, we only need to get them hand tight for right now. We're going to have a total of four on the rear cross member area.Now that we have all of our bolts in place and they're hand tight, we can go ahead and remove our lifting device or have our extra set of hands go ahead and let go, when we work on getting our side plates in place. Now on the passenger side wheel well, we're going to grab our passenger side side plate, and we're going to know it's the passenger side because it's not going to have any kind of latch handle instructions on it. It's just going to have that B&W sticker.We can take it, and these two tabs that are sticking outward are going to go in between our two cross members, and when we put it against the frame it should line up with these two threaded holes here. We're going to attach it using our M16 bolt followed by a 5/8 lock washer, and then a rather large 5/8 flat washer. We're going to go through the plate and thread it into the existing holes in the frame. Now, for right now we just want to get this in hand tight in case we need to slide it back or forth just a little bit, because the holes are slotted.The side plates are going to attach to our cross members here as well, so we're going to take our 1/2 inch bolts and we're going to go through the cross member, line it up with the side plate, and then on the inside we're going to follow it up with a 1/2 inch flat washer followed by a lock washer, and then finally securing it down with a nut. Now, right now we're just going to leave this pretty loose. We're just going to do it hand tight while we can get our next bolt in place.On the back side, since we have a threaded hole in the rear cross member here, we're just going to take our 1/2 inch bolt, follow it up with a lock washer and flat washer, and then go through the center section and thread it directly into that cross member. Now that we have all the bolts in place on the passenger side, we're going to want to repeat that on the driver side.Once you have all your bolts in place and them nice and snug, we're going to come back and tighten up our side plate bolts, those 16 millimeter bolts. We'll be using a 24 millimeter socket to tighten them up. We'll repeat that for the other side as well. For the rest of our hardware, we're going to go ahead and tighten that down as well. We're going to be using a 3/4 inch socket and wrench to tighten up the 1/2 inch hardware. We'll repeat that for all of our remaining 1/2 inch hardware.Now we're going to come back with a torque wrench and torque all of our hardware down. We're going to find that specification in our instructions. Now, they do tell us to torque down the side plate bolts, those 16 millimeter bolts first, and then do the 1/2 inch hardware on our side plates, and then finally torque down the center section bolts. Coming back with that 24 millimeter socket, go ahead and tighten those bolts down. We'll repeat that on all of our remaining hardware.With our hitch torqued down, we can go ahead and get ready to install our latch handle. Now, if we look on our side plate here on the driver side, there is going to be a small notch cut out, and that's where our handle's going to go through. Now as you can see, our liner's going to get kind of in the way, so before we start feeding it through, I'm going to get a rough idea of where the handle's going to be, and I'm going to make just a small cut just to make a relief cut so that we can get the handle in place. Then once the handle's in place, we can come back and trim anything necessary to make it look nice. Just feed the handle through the notch, put it in that little relief cut we have, then we can go underneath and get ready to bolt it up.Here's where our handle came through the center section. To make it a little bit easier on ourselves, we want to take that latch pin, pull it out, and lock it into position and then pull my handle until it lines up with this hole. Now, in order for our handle to go in far enough, we are going to have to trim out a little bit more, because the metal part will go in, but that rubber coating on the handle isn't going to get past this liner. We'll just cut around the hole that we already have, giving it a little bit bigger of a notch just at the top section so we don't have to cut the liner up too bad and it's not as noticeable. Just want a little bit more relief so we can slide that handle in and out, and we can come back and clean it up after we get our handle installed.Once the handle hole is lined up with the latch pin, we're going to take the small carriage bolt that we have and we're going to feed it through the latch pin. That square hole is going to engage the latch pin right here. We're going to have a small flange nut that we can put on the other side. Grab a 1/2 inch wrench or socket and come back and snug it up. If we come back to our handle, this is going to be where that pin is pulled out and locked. If we go to engage it and push our pin back in, our liner is going to catch on it, and it does go in well past our liner. We do see the general area that we're going to need to cut, so we can go ahead and cut that small section out just enough for our handle to move freely. Now our handle can move freely in and out, and lock and retract without having to worry about the liner interfering.On either side of our hitch, we're going to have two holes. Those are going to be where our safety chain loops are going to go. Starting out, we're going to get a rather small drill bit and we're going to drill that out coming from the bottom going up towards the top of the bed. This is going to be our pilot hole, making it a little bit easier when we go to enlarge them. With our pilot holes drilled, we're going to come back with a 1/2 inch drill bit and enlarge those holes all the way out to a 1/2 inch. We'll repeat that for all the remaining holes we have.With the holes drilled, we can grab our safety chain loops. We're just going to drop them right down through the bed. Then we can go back underneath and put our hardware in place. Now where our safety bolts came dropping down through our hitch, we're going to take our spring, and with the thick ends going towards the top, we're going to go around one of the studs. Then we can take the nut, we're going to thread that in place. Now, right now we're just going to get them on hand tight until we can get the rest of the springs and nuts in place.I'm going to come back with a 3/4 inch socket and we're going to tighten those nuts up until the bottom of the bolt is even with the bottom of the nut. We'll do that for the other side as well. We can go ahead and pull our latch pin handle out into the open position. We can grab our ball, and I do recommend putting a small bit of grease on the four corners. We can just spray a little bit on there, then we can drop it down and reengage the handle.We can go ahead and put our liner back. Just make sure that we put all of the hardware back in place. Now we're ready to back up to our trailer and hook up. That'll finish up your look at the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Custom Installation Kit, part number BWGNRK1016 on our 2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500.

Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video Edited:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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