B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 GMC Sierra 3500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2019 GMC Sierra 3500


Hi, there, Sierra owners. Today, on your 2019 GMC Sierra 3500, we're going to be installing B&W's Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch. This gooseneck hitch is going to be hidden underneath the bed of your truck. The underbed rail design keeps most of the components under the bed, this way you can maximize the amount of space in the bed of your truck when you don't want to haul a gooseneck trailer, but when you're ready, you can simply throw your ball in and you're ready to go. To ensure you don't lose your ball when not in use, it stores flush by simply flipping it over and dropping it back down. Now, it's almost as if you don't have a gooseneck trailer installed.

You've got a nice level bed to work with that's not going to affect anything you throw in the back.Your safety chains attach to the spring loaded safety chain loops located underneath your bed. You can see here that when I pull it up, you can easily attach your safety chains, but when you're not using it, they spring-load back down flush, minimizing the effects that it has on the space taken up in your bed.The ball that comes with your hitch is a 2 and 5/16th size and it's a solid steel construction that is machined to achieve the ball shape that you see here. This offers a greater strength than your cast designs. The hitch can handle a 7500-pound tongue weight, which is the force going down on top of our receiver, and 30-thousand-pound gross towing capacity, which is how much it can pull behind it. You do want to be careful and verify in your vehicle's owner's manual to ensure you don't exceed any of its towing capacities.In addition to being able to haul a gooseneck trailer with your brand new gooseneck hitch, B&W has its companion available, which is an adapter that connects directly to your gooseneck hitch here, allowing it to haul a Fisk wheel trailer.This kit is custom designed for your Sierra.

The brackets will line right up with the factory weld nuts in your frame, so there's no drilling required into your frame. The only drilling required is for the hitch ball and safety chain loops in the truck bed. Now, with our new gooseneck hitch installed, we can hook up our gooseneck trailer and get to work, or we could hook up your gooseneck trailer and head on down to the race track with your car hauler. My friend Tom's dad uses his gooseneck hitch for his horse trailer.We'll begin our installation in the back of the truck. You'll want to mark out the location where you'll drill your four-inch hole for your gooseneck ball to poke through.

You'll want to refer to your instructions for the appropriate location as this is going to vary depending on the length of the bed of your truck. We've already got ours marked out here. We've got our four-inch hole saw prepared. We're going to drill our pilot hole in the center. After your drilled your pilot hole, you can go ahead and cut out your four-inch hole.

We can now clean up our metal shavings, and we'll use some clear coat to seal up the metal to ensure that no rust or corrosion occurs.Now, on our passenger side wheel well, we're going to be notching out in the area of our fender liner, so we can slide our rails above our frame. You want to be just above our jounce bumper here. You'll see your center crossmember here. You want to make the notch a little bit in front of that crossmember because that's where our rails are going to be located. After you've notched out the liner, you may need to notch out the metal located behind it as well. You can go ahead and try and fit it. We already checked it and it's a little tight, so we're just going to take a little bit of the metal out here. We're just using some tin snips to do that.Go ahead and remove the spare tire. This will give you a little more room to work. You don't have to remove it, but it'll make your life a lot easier. On our passenger side, we're going to be removing the heat shield here. You'll want to use a 13-millimeter socket to remove the bolts that hold it in. You'll remove one near the notch that you made on the frame rail on the passenger side. You'll also have another bolt on the frame rail towards the rear of the vehicle from where you made your notch. Underneath on the cross tube that goes across between your frames, you'll have another bolt there and then in front of the axle on the cross tube, you also have one up there. We'll be using a 13-millimeter socket for all of those bolts. With all four bolts removed, we can take our heat shield and remove it. We will not be reinstalling the heat shield.Now, we'll take our front rail, we're going to put it in place. We want to make sure that our holes are facing towards the rear of the vehicle, the smooth side towards the front, and we want it angled with the point at the top. We're just going to push this all the way across to the other side. If it doesn't fit, you may need to widen it a little bit more. It's kind of a trial and error. You don't want to cut it too big, so I always recommend cutting a little small, try the fit, and then cutting out a little more if need be.After you got your rail in, we're just gonna take that and slide it towards the front. We'll now take the shorter of the larger diameter brass-colored bolts that come in the kit. We'll then take the o-ring that comes in our kit, and we're going to slide it over this particular bolt. This one's difficult to access, so we're just doing this now to make it easier to get our hitch installed in the future. We put this in the second to last hole to the far driver's side. You can see here, it's to be positioned roughly above our fuel tank.Next, we're going to slide our rear rail in. The rear rail has pre-drilled holes in it that an offset to one side, we will want to the closest to the frame. Once we get it in there, we're going to flip it upright, and we want to be like this, so keep that in mind as you're sliding it in, so you can make sure you can get to it to flip it that way. This one will just simply slide in just like we did our other one all the way across till we are resting on the other side. We're now going to flip that rail just like I explained. To make it easier to do that, we're going to use an adjustable wrench. Just set that on there, and then flip it just like that. Once you've got it flipped up, just push it back until it butts up against the rail there.We'll now take our center section and set it in position. You want to make sure that you have the gooseneck hole offset towards the rear of the vehicle. Want to work it up over our exhaust first. Once you've got it set up in there, we're going to take our front crossbar, we're going to slide it towards our brace here, we're gonna line up the holes in it with our center section, we're gonna be using the shorter, brass-colored bolts, we're going to go through our front crossmember, then through the center section and we'll be placing a lock washer and nut on the other side. It can be a little difficult to line all that up. We're going to get our bolt through on the left first that we had prepared. We got that one slipped through. Place the lock washer and nut on it, and then we'll get one in on the other side. With one on each side, we can now go back and install the remaining two in the exact same way. It'd just be easier now that we've got one on each side holding it up.We'll now prepare the hardware for the rear crossmember, where it'll attach to the center section. We're going to be using the longer brass-colored bolts. We're going to slide on a lock washer followed by a flat washer. We'll have four of these total once you're finished preparing. Now, push your center section up till it goes in the hole that we drilled out previously. Push your rear crossbar flush up against the backside, and then take the hardware that we prepared and thread it into your crossmember. After you've got one started on this site, it'll hold it up, making it easier to install the three remaining bolts.Now, we're back on the passenger side. We're going to be installing the side rails. We're going to prepare the hardware. Take the largest bolts that come into your kit, place on a lock washer, followed by a flat washer. You'll have a total of two for each side. Take your side bracket and place it up on the side of your frame rail, lining up the holes with the weld nuts that are in your frame rail. Take the hardware we prepared and thread it into those factory weld nuts.Now, we'll attach our side bracket to the crossbars that we've put in place. I'm going to take our bolt, slide on a lock washer followed by a flat washer. It's going to slide through the rear ear on your side bracket and thread into the rear crossbeam. These are going to be the shorter brass-colored bolts that come in the kit. For our front crossbeam, we're going take the bolt, we're gonna slide it through the crossbeam and through our side bracket. Then, we're going to slide a flat washer, lock washer, and finishing it off with a nut. We'll then repeat the same process on the other side.We can now go back and tighten down all our hardware. For our larger side bolts, we'll be using a 15/16th socket. We'll tighten down the rest of our hardware using a 3/4 inch socket and wrench. You can then go back and torque all of your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions.We'll now use a 1/2 inch drill bit to drill through the holes in the bottom of our truck bed where the center section already has holes. We're gonna use those as a template and drill it out. We're going to repeat that for the three remaining holes. There's a total of two on each side. This is where we'll be placing our safety chain loops. We'll now take a little bit of clear coat. We're gonna clear coat those as well, just like we did our other hole to protect them. Then, take your u-bolts, slide them from the top down. Now, back on the bottom side, we'll take the springs that come in our kit. We're going to slide the spring with the larger end facing up over our u-bolt, then take the lock nuts that come in our kit and thread them on to the u-bolt. We're gonna repeat that for each remaining leg on the two u-bolts. We can now take a 3/4-inch socket and tighten up the lock nuts. We want to just tighten them down until they're flush with the bottom of the u-bolt.On our driver's side, we will install the handle, which will allow us to release and lock our hitch ball in. We're going to slide this into the open slot on the driver's side, and we'll get it through the center section as well. It's not a bad idea to notch this out, so that way your handle doesn't have any pressure on it. It can make things a little bit easier. Once you've slid your handle through, you'll bring it even with the release mechanism here. Take the carriage bolt that comes in your kit, slide it through the release mechanism and through the eye on the handle, and thread a nut on the other side. We can then tighten up that nut using a 13-millimeter socket. We're just going to make a little trim here just to make it easier to use the handle.All that's left is to take your ball and drop it down into your brand new hitch. Release the lock mechanism with the handle on the side, and you're ready to go. That completes our installation of B&W's Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on your 2019 GMC Sierra 3500.


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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
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Jacob T
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Kathleen M
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Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
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Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C
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David F
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Ryan G

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