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B and W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2022 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2022 Ford F-250 Super Duty

Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer and today we're taking a look at installing the B&W Turnover Ball Underbed Gooseneck Kit on at 2022 Ford F250. So now when you are ready to hook up to your gooseneck, you simply just take the ball and drop this in and it can go either way, doesn't matter. The holes will line up and it's just gonna drop in and then you'll be able to latch that in place. Now, a great portion of the turnover ball is when you're not using it, you can just simply store it right here. That'll drop in and you can lock that in as well. It's also gonna make sure that the water channels through here and that way water doesn't sit in there.

It's gonna drain out, and then whenever you're ready for it, it's got a nice little finger grab here and you can pull that back out. Now, this is a very heavy-duty kit. You have a vertical load limit of 7,500 pounds, so pretty heavy duty there, but the main thing you're probably looking for is the gross trailer weight and that's gonna be 30,000 pounds. Now, obviously you wanna make sure that the vehicle's capable of towing that as well, but I don't think this is gonna limit you by any means. So if you're towing a horse trailer or that RV, this should be able to hold up to it, no problem.

Now, the ball that comes with it is gonna be a 2 and 5/16, so you're gonna wanna make sure that the coupler or the gooseneck that you're using is gonna be that size. And you're also gonna have these safety loops that are spring loaded, which is really nice because a truck still needs to be a truck sometimes so if you want to utilize your bed and you're not towing, you can just simply flip this over and everything's pretty well flushed. In fact, these safety loops sit almost flushed with the corrugations on the bed so you're really not gonna be losing anything. To begin our installation, we're gonna wanna lower down our spares tire. Now it's not required to do this, but while you're under there, having extra space is really gonna make this install a lot easier so it's just better to drop that spare tire and get that out of the way.

So the next thing we're gonna need to do is find our center point where we're gonna be drilling our hole to access the actual receiver. Now, to do this, you're gonna use the instruction manual, and it's gonna give you the measurement. Now, if you do not have a bed liner, there should be a factory dimple there that's gonna make it easy, but once you get a bed liner on here, it is kind of hard to find, so best bet, just kind of measure that out and then you're also gonna wanna measure from wheel well to wheel well to find that center distance. So I've gone ahead and done that and I've just used a paint marker here to mark our hole. Now, once you have that hole align there, you're gonna come back with your four inch hole saw.

I'm using four and an 1/8. It's gonna open it up just a little bit more and it's gonna give us a little bit more room to work with with that receiver, so make sure you center it up perfectly on your mark as you can't really redo this one so just take your time, make sure it's set up and then we'll start drilling. Now with these bed liners in here, they can get a little bit tricky, just you might have to work it a little bit more and also you're gonna want to make sure you hold onto your drill so I put it between my legs, that way it's not twisting your wrist around, so let's go ahead and we'll get this drilled out. So now that we have this cut out, I'm gonna just go back with a file, just to kinda get these sharp edges out. I'm also gonna take some spray paint to cover up this raw metal and vacuum out these shavings too. So the exposed metal, this is an aluminum bed, but just kind of get that edge cleaned up. That should prevent any corrosion from happening. So I'll get this all cleaned up real quick and then we'll move along. I vacuumed all our metal shavings and then I just took a file and kind of went around the edge, making sure that there's no burs, that's just gonna help kind of clean this up. It's gonna be really hard to do once you actually have the receiver there so getting this all smooth and now we're gonna touch it up with some paint. I'm using black just because we it'll match the bed liner, but you can use clear, kind of just throwing a coat on here just to protect it. Now in the box, there's gonna be this cardboard piece and this is a nice little template just to kind of get some of that over spray from spreading out so just a light coat on that exposed metal should be just enough. Now we're gonna wanna make sure that we have enough space to kind of get this all up. It's pretty heavy, so really having more space to work with is gonna make it a lot easier. So first step I'm gonna do is get our heat shield removed, and there's gonna be three 13 millimeter nuts here so you have one and then there's gonna be two back here, so that way we can open this all up and then we can also lower down our exhaust to make it a little bit easier just to gain access. So go ahead, get these removed. And throughout the whole process, you're gonna want to have a nice, organized spot to keep all your hardware. It's just gonna make everything going back together that much easier. So now we can set this aside. So to drop down your exhaust, it's actually on a bracket so you don't have to worry about taking the isolator off. It's gonna be a two, 10 millimeter bolts here. There's also two on the other side. So again, this is just gonna give us a little bit more wiggle room, especially when we get our plates in. It's nice to have that little bit of extra room to fit them in some of these tight spots. So yeah, just with your 10 millimeter, go ahead and remove these. So now at this point, I've grabbed all my cross-member brackets and I've laid them out the way that they're gonna fit on the truck and we're gonna be installing these threaded bushings and if you look close, there's gonna be a little notch here and that's gonna align with the notch that's right in the metal so it's pretty easy to get this in place. You're gonna see there's a little bit of a gap so just taking a hammer here and just kind of hit these to where their flush all around is gonna be the ticket so we'll go ahead and do that to the rest of our brackets. So now you're gonna want to determine if you have the factory side brackets already installed and you'll see 'em on the frame rail. They're gonna be welded in. And if that's the case, you're lucky you won't have to put your side plates on, but ours does not actually have those so we'll be putting the side plates up, so go ahead and you're gonna want to get your driver's side and your passenger side paired together. The driver's side's gonna be the longer ones and you're gonna have the instructions on the handle on the driver's sides so just get that one, match that longer one, and then we'll get that bolted up as well as the passenger. So here's our driver's side bracket here. This is gonna go on the outside of the frame rail, and then we're just gonna follow it up with this plate. The hardware's gonna be pretty easy too. We're gonna just pass our bolt through. We'll want a flat washer on the outside there and then once we feed that through and get the threads through here, we'll go ahead with a flat washer, a lock washer, and then a nut, so I'm gonna go ahead and get these in place. With our outside bracket, I'm gonna go ahead and do this back one first so you should be centered up kind of right over your down springs and you'll have that flat portion facing up and you'll know pretty quickly because the way that sticker designates will show you exactly the way it's supposed to go. So just go ahead and line it up with the holes in the frame, pass that through, and you're gonna wanna kind of hold this in place while putting the other bracket in. So to help ourselves out to kind of hold this in place, if you're doing this by yourself, you can take the nut and just kind of start it on that thread and that's just gonna kind of hold this in place so it doesn't fall out while getting our other in place. So you can see there's quite a bit going on here. We have our wire loom with a bunch of, we've got, looks like break cables and a few lines so it is gonna kind of get tight to get this in place so I'm gonna try to find the best method to get this up there for ya, but at least this will hold it up. Now it is really tight to get this in there. I think it's just gonna make it easier if we take our bracket off and that's gonna drop this down. So there's gonna be two 13 millimeter bolts here so we'll just go ahead and get those removed. As you can see, it's pretty tight here so you might need to use a ratcheting wrench. It looks as if all of our wiring, as well as our lines, there's some hard lines here, so really you don't wanna move it too much and cause any damage, but again, this is gonna allow us to kind of drop this down and get that plate in. So I'll get this one started here and then we can go ahead and get that other nut off, but again, just make sure you're using your flat washer, your split washer, and then follow it up with the nut. You can go ahead and do the same for that front bolt. So we're gonna go ahead and tighten these down and we're gonna want 'em flush with the frame. Now, you're gonna want to have a wrench on the backside and I'm using a 15/16 socket and wrench combo here just to tighten these up and get 'em nice and flush with the frame. So go ahead and repeat that for the rest of the remaining bolts. Let's make a later step easier. We're gonna put our handle in place. We're not gonna be bolting it down, but to be able to slide this in before we put some of the other brackets in is just gonna make it a lot easier so I'm just gonna kind of slide this in and just place it up on our plate for now and that's just gonna kind of stay in place. So now we're getting ready to put our cross-member brackets up and we'll be using this nut, or this bolt here. It's got Threadlocker already in it, so you're gonna wanna grab those to get 'em in place. And sometimes it's kind of tricky to denote which side goes to which and they're not labeled, so I have these laid out in the orientation that they're gonna go so just kind of lay yours out the same way and then we'll put those in the way that they are, so a little hopeful tip here, the ones that are flat are gonna be towards the front of the cab whereas you have these little indents here, those are gonna be towards the back of the truck. So starting with our passenger forward-most bracket, we're gonna take this and slide it up and over and we're gonna be aligning those little threaded washers that we put in earlier so this might take a little bit of wiggling to kind of get it in place, but you'll see that this hole will align and then the one on the other side of the frame is also should align and then we can get our thread-lock bolts in place, and I'm just gonna kind of hand tighten them in for now. So now we're gonna work on the passenger back bracket here, and same thing, we're just gonna align those threaded bushings that we put in place. And again, just go ahead and get these hand tightened in. And then we'll just repeat the same process for the driver's side. So now we're gonna get ready to put our front-cross member bars up and the best way to determine where it's gonna go is there's a weld right on the inside of this tube and you're gonna want that facing up so make sure you have that denoted going up, and then you're also gonna have four holes, which is gonna be your passenger side and then the driver has three. So when we get this in place, what we're gonna be doing is kind of aligning this, but we also have this washer plate and we're gonna need to put this on the backside and then we're gonna take our bolts, pass these through, and then once we make it through, we'll be putting our split washer and a nut on these two, so we'll do this side first and then we'll work on our driver's side. So I'll get this set up on the ground here by putting that washer plate, putting our bolts through, and then we're gonna see that the brackets kind of stagger on here so we're gonna slide 'em in between and then once we have those put in place, we can just hand tighten the nuts with that split washer on there so let's go ahead and get our passenger side and we're done. And that's gonna kind of hold it in place with just a little bit of pressure, so now I can go ahead, get these hand tighten on and that'll hold it up for us. Now we can kind of align the driver's side and we're gonna be passing our bolt through the furthest hole, so just kind of align that with the bracket and then get this passed through. Now, this one's gonna be a little bit different. To create that tightening, we're gonna be putting this rectangle spacer block. You can just slide that on there and then we'll follow it up with our split washer and our nut. Now, before putting up our rear cross member, you're gonna see that there's gonna be four holes that are gonna be for our 3/4 socket here on this bolt and this is gonna be a 15/16 for these outer four and sometimes they can get powder coat finish in the threads, so what we're gonna do is just kind of run these through and make sure that that powder coat's cleared out. It's gonna make it a lot easier than trying to get these threaded in in the vehicle, so just run it through, back it out, and then just do that for the remainder of 'em. And again, this is just gonna help you get this up a little bit easier. You can see this one hand tightened already. It's fighting me, but once you pass it through, it's gonna be nice and easy and able to be done by hand. So with the threads cleared out of our rear cross member, we're gonna bolt this in and you'll see our four holes that we'll be putting that into, so we're gonna be feeding it right in this gap. You can see that's why it's kind of bowed out and have your hardware ready so we'll be using these bolts with the split washer and a flat washer and they're gonna go from where our hole is going towards the back of the vehicle so they can thread in. So just kind of place this up. We'll go ahead and get these hand threaded in. And with those two threaded in, that's gonna hold it up so I can go ahead and get the other outer two threaded in as well. So now we're gonna put our center section in and you're gonna want this portion that our latch is gonna attach to towards the front and obviously towards the driver's side where the handle is, and what we're gonna be doing is lifting this in place and we're gonna feed our long bolts here through our center section, and then we'll follow it up with hardware, but for now, we're just gonna go ahead and get these fed in. And in the back, you're gonna have these bolts here with a split washer and a flat washer, and those are gonna screw into those holes that we cleaned out, so whatever works best, but I suggest getting one on each side and maybe stagger 'em a little bit and that's gonna hold this up and it's gonna make it a lot easier for the rest of the hardware. So you might want to grab an extra set of hands. This is fairly heavy, but we'll just kind of get this lined up. And with those holes aligned, we'll pass this bolt through. And then I'll take my shorter bolt and I'll just get this started on that threaded portion so just align those holes. Now that we have it held up in place, I'm gonna go to our long bolt here and I'm gonna just put a flat washer, our split washer, and then hand tighten our nut on there. And then I'm just gonna repeat the same steps so you're gonna have the four long bolts in these holes and then our threaded ones are gonna be those shorter bolts so let's go ahead and get those installed. Now I have all my hardware in place and before I go ahead and tighten it down, I'm gonna go up top in the bed and it's not completely necessary to have a lifting device to raise this up. There's not a whole lot of wiggle room, but I've found over time with some of these underbeds, it's nice to be able to pull that up. It's gonna make sure that it's centered and that way we can tighten all these bolts and know that it's aligned properly. Now there's a bunch of different ways you can do this. You can use some blocks of wood and just have a brace with a ratchet strap. I'd gone ahead and just used a jack handle as well as some jack stands and that's gonna give us a nice easy spot to hook up on here and that's gonna raise this in place and you can see that's gonna protrude here and we can kind of get this aligned. Now is our chance to really adjust this to have it exactly where we want, so if I wanna move it back a little, we can still do that. So now that I have this suspended here, I can go back under, and this is just gonna hold that in place and we'll be able to tighten all this down. So now we have everything in place and we're gonna wanna tighten these in a specific sequence. That way it's gonna be cinched up perfectly and throughout the process, once we're done with a step, you're gonna wanna check up top just to kind of make sure everything's still squared up. Now, I've gone ahead with the chalk marker and kind of marked my number sequence just to kind of keep it easy, but the first one that will knock out is gonna be all of these center cross-member bolts that have the center section so you're gonna have eight on this backside, there's gonna be seven up front. Now, just be aware that you do have 3/4" for some of it and some of 'em are gonna be 15/16 and the ones that have the nut on that side, you're gonna wanna put a wrench on the other side just to make sure they're snug. So I'll go ahead and tighten all these down and you can refer to your instruction manual for the entire sequence. They have it laid out as well so let's get these all tightened down. And we're gonna be going back with a torque wrench after this so you don't have to get too crazy here, you just want 'em snugged up. So once you have everything tightened down in sequence, we're gonna go back and with our torque wrench, torque it down to the specifications in the instruction manual. If you don't have a torque wrench, you can rent one at an auto parts store, but we also have 'em here available at etrailer. Now this tends to be kind of the trickiest part sometimes of this install because some of these are gonna be really tight to get to with the torque wrench, so try your best. Some of 'em, you might have to use a crowfoot to get to, but really just try your best to get all of them torqued down. Now the two different size hardwares are gonna have two different torque settings so make sure you adjust your torque properly to each size. So now that we have everything properly torqued down, we can go ahead and take our lifting device out of the way and unlatch it and that's gonna allow us to get our handle in place and installed. So now we're gonna get ready to attach our handle to our mechanism and we need to lock this out so you can push this back and you'll see it's gonna lock in place. And in order to make sure it doesn't snap while we're tightening this down, I'm just gonna put an Allen wrench here and that's just gonna kind of create a little lock there, and pretty easy, we have some carriage bolts and these are gonna fit through the square on the handle so just feed those through the square holes here, and then move those to those corresponding holes there. Now you may have to move your handle too to get this aligned properly. It should be sitting almost flush with these, so just make sure you have this aligned properly. We'll just get our carriage bolts in here and then finish it up with our flared nuts. These are gonna be a 13, so we'll get these tightened down. So now that we have these tightened up, you can go ahead and remove your Allen wrench and then you're gonna want to just test the latch to make sure that you have smooth operation, it's not gonna hit anything and it looks as if ours is working great. So now we have our latch installed, we need to go ahead and make our holes for the safety loops here so I'm gonna go ahead and grab my drill bit and we're gonna start making these holes. Now, to ensure that we have our holes lined up for this, what I'm gonna do is take a small pilot bit and we're just gonna run this completely perpendicular straight up so just take your time, make sure you're centered, and then you're gonna want to drill all the way up through the bed and then we'll have a hole to work with to center it up and we can enlarge it from up top, so we go ahead and make our holes. And then just repeat the same process for the other three. So we have our pilot holes drilled up and I'm gonna go back with a step bit. That seems to be the best way to get through this and have your safety loops here ready and that way you can kind of gauge to make sure that they're able to slot through there. So we'll just go ahead, they say half an inch, which that's probably pretty close, but again, I just kind of gauge it by using the safety loops. Now, once you take your step bit, you may notice that there's a separate channel underneath there of metal, and you're gonna have to clear that out using a drill bit so just go ahead and enlarge that so we can get our loop. And this is kind of what we're looking for. Once you kinda get past the threads, it should be able to drop on its own, so what I'm gonna do, I'll get this one drilled out, do the same thing, we'll vacuum this up, and then again I'll go back with my file and a little bit of paint on these. Now we can just drop these in. Again, sometimes the threads will catch, but main part, you're able to lift and let that drop into place. So with our safety chain loops down, we can go ahead and get our spring in place and so I'm just gonna kind of push this up and it's gonna help to keep this above those threads. Sometimes they can kind of tangle up and then this is just gonna be a 3/4" nut so I'm gonna get these all in place and then as I tighten 'em, I'll push that spring up. And really what we're looking for is you're gonna want to have this flush with the bottom of our safety chain bolt, so pretty easy. You don't have to tighten two terribly tight. It's just again, looking for it to be flush. So now at this point, everything is installed so all we have to do is get everything back up, make sure you get your bracket, you're exhaust, and your spare tire up, and then you're ready to start using your gooseneck. And that was a look at installation of the B&W Underbed Turnover Ball Gooseneck Kit on a 2022 Ford F250..

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video by:
Joshua S
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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