B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2020 GMC Sierra 2500

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2020 GMC Sierra 2500


Ryan: How's it going Ryan here at etrailer.com. Today, on our 2020 GMC Sierra 2500, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the B&W Turnover Ball Under-Bed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with the custom installation kit. Being that this is an under-bed kit, all of our main components are going to be located here underneath our truck. Which in turn means that we're going to have full bed access here up top. And that can be especially useful when we're running around the job site, maybe throwing a few motorcycles in the bed, or even some luggage when we we're taking the family on vacation.Now one of the biggest differences I noticed about this kit compared to some of the other ones, is the overall craftsmanship. It's much better in my opinion.

All the brackets, cross members, just about everything in the kit is really nice and really heavy duty. And everything's going to fit really well too, which in turn makes your whole experience much better. This is one kit I personally recommend to my friends and family.The ball is going to be two and five sixteenths of an inch. And since it's a turnover ball, what that means is when you're not using it, you can actually pull it out, flip it over and actually store it inside of the hitch. That way you don't have to worry about losing it or have to worry about it rolling around in the back seat of your truck.This can also be easily converted into a fifth wheel and you would do that using the B&W companion, which is more or less an adapter that goes in here.

That way if you've got multiple trailers, or say if you have a gooseneck now, but you might plan on using a fifth wheel in the future, you're going to be able to tow fifth wheels and goosenecks with just one kit.Now the hitch is going to have a 30,000 pound maximum gross towing weight. That's going to be the amount of weight pulling on the ball. That's the weight of your trailer plus anything that you might have on it. It's going to have a 7,500 pound vertical load limit and that's going to be the amount of weight pushing down on the ball. Now I do want to point out it's never a bad idea to check with your truck's owner's manual to see what it's rated to pull.Now the safety chain hooks here are actually going to be spring loaded.

They're going to be really easy to pull up. They're going to give you more than enough room to use just about any size hook that you might have. Now since they are spring loaded, when you're not using them, they're going to sit nice and flush against the bottom of the bed and they're not going to rattle around and make a whole bunch of noise either.Another advantage I noticed this one has, is how easy the handle is to use. When you pull it out it's going to be really smooth and easy. Then to lock it in that open position, you simply just turn it to the left a little and that'll keep it open like that.

Some of the other handles are a little more flimsy and you got to fight with them to try to find that lock position and find that sweet spot. As for this one, you don't even have to think about it. Pull it out, turn it and you're good.The handles can allow you to get the ball ready to use or to flip it over and store it. Let's say whenever you are ready to store it, pull that handle, lock it and you'd hop up in the bed of the truck and flip the ball over. When you're ready to put it in that locked or towing position, turn it over a little bit and let it go back into place. Overall, I personally think that this is probably the best hitch option as far as your gooseneck hitches go. It's how well built it is, how easy it is to use and even how easy it is to get installed.Being that these trucks have a different style chassis, the gooseneck design is a little bit different than the older style ones. But having installed many different older style ones, I can tell you right now this one fits much better, is much more straightforward and user friendly. You shouldn't have any problem at all installing it in your garage or even in your driveway. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and put it on together now.To begin our installation we're going to be here at the back of the truck and what we're going to do is lower and temporarily remove our spare tire. Now underneath the truck we're going to have our shield here that covered up our spare tire. We're going to get that removed and so it's going to be held in place with two 13 millimeter bolts. Going to have one here and then one just a little further up past it. We'll just lower this down and set it to the side for now.Now we can remove this heat shield here that's just above our exhaust. That's going to be held in place with four 13 millimeter fasteners. We're going to have one bolt right here on this end, two on the side and one more up at the other end of the shield. The other two bolts that we need to get to, to remove our heat shield can be easily accessed through our wheel well here. But our liner is hanging down and blocking the access to them. What we're going to do since the wheel well liners need to be loosened up anyway, is just do that now. That way we can get to the bolts and remove the heat shield. What we're going to do is remove these three T15 Torx bit screws. Once we pull these out you're able to just bend the wheel well liner back and get access to them bolts.Now with this last bolt out, what we can do is go underneath the truck and completely remove our heat shield. Going to grab our shield and just push it forward and sneak it out from under the truck and set it to the side. Now over on the other side of the truck and this wheel well, we're going to remove the same three T15 screws to allow you to fold away that wheel well liner.Now just to give us a little more room to work and to make our install a little bit easier, what we're going to do is lower our exhaust a little bit here, this very last hanger. What you're going to do is spray it down with some penetrating oil or some soapy water and take a pry bar and just pry that rubber portion off of our tailpipe and that'll give it a little more wiggle room and free up some space down here.Now at this point we can hop up in the bed of our truck and we're going to take a few measurements. That way we can locate where we need to drill our hole. Those measurements are listed in your instructions, but it's something I do want to point out is whenever you measure, you want to measure from the end of the bed itself. You want to be sure not to measure from your tailgate. You're going to measure from here to the amount in the instructions and then you're going to find the center of your bed. What I like to do is measure from side to side from inside of our wheel wells here and split the difference and that'll give you the center of your bed where you need to drill. You want to put a little mark where you need to drill and then you can grab a hole saw and cut out that opening. Now I do like to point out it's never a bad idea, just take a quick peek underneath the bed of the truck and make sure you have nothing of importance underneath there.With our hole cut out, we'll go ahead and grab a vacuum and clean up our mess. Just to help prevent any rust or corrosion, since we do have a little bit of bare metal here inside of our hole, it's never a bad idea just to take some spray paint to help keep that protected.Now we can begin to assemble our front cross member. What we're going to be doing is attaching this large tube with one of the brackets. With this being the front cross member, the bracket that we're going to attach will be on the driver's side. We got them laid out here. To get them attached together, what you're first going to do is grab your large cross member and look inside of it and you should see a welded seam. Now that welded seam is going to sit in our bracket itself. We'll take it, set it into the bracket and you're going to position it to where the holes are centered with these oval shape holes on our bracket. Once we have it in place, we'll take our large five eighths bolts, push them through. And on the backside we'll take our five eighths flange nuts, get them started hand tight. Then we can grab a 15 sixteenths socket and wrench and snug them down. Once they're snug we can come back with a torque wrench and tighten them down to the amount specified in the instructions.Now since our cross members bolt directly to the top of our frame, before we put them in place, I'd just like to point out those attachment points and where they're going to be and what they're going to look like. You come to your wheel well and peel that liner back to your frame. You're going to see some holes in the top of the frame. Those are going to be the attachment points. You're going to have two here. If you lift back this portion of the liner, you're also going to have two more back here. Now I do always recommend not a bad idea to clean those threaded holes out so you can just grab a tube brush, you can find it here at etrailer. Just run it through those threaded holes to make sure there's no dirt or debris or anything that's going to hang us up when we go to put our hardware in. Now the attachment points on the other side are going to be set up the exact same way. We'll go ahead and clean all of those holes out.To put our first cross member in place underneath the truck, we're going to take the side that doesn't have the bracket attached to it, going to slide it over the exhaust towards that passenger shock mount and then we can start to push this end in. What we're trying to do is clear this brake line bracket. Might have to play with it and find that sweet spot to get us to be able to clear. Once we do have it cleared, we can slide that end onto the frame rail, let it rest. And this side will just rest on the exhaust for now.Now we can grab our other cross member bracket and get that into position on our cross member tube itself. What we're going to do is lift that flat end up that's going to sit on top of our frame, push it up into place. And just like the other side, we're going to get these oval holes to line up with the holes in our main cross member here. Once we do have them lined up again, we can take our five eighths bolts and flange nuts just like the other side, and pass those through. Now once both of our bolts are passed through, we'll take those flange nuts and we'll just get them started hand tight for now.With that front cross member resting in position, now we can work on the rear one. Now I went ahead and assembled the rear cross member the exact same way as the front one with one exception. The bolts, you're not going to tighten and torque these just yet. You just want to leave them hand tight for now.Now underneath the truck we can get our rear cross member into position. This is going to pretty much work the same way as the front one. We're just going to want to make sure to put this on our frame rails behind the hole that we drilled in the bed. Slide this up and what we're going to do is let that rest for now and we can grab our bracket. Take our bracket, line it up with the cross member, put the five eighths bolts, run those through. Straighten everything out here. We'll just grab our five eighths flange nuts, get them started. We're just going to leave all this hardware hand tight for now.Now we can grab our center section and get this preassembled. Now there's a couple of different ways we can do this and it really just depends on if you have a long bed or a short bed. If you have a short bed truck like we do today, this cutout here, that's going to face towards the cab of the truck or towards the front of the truck. If you have a long bed, this cross member cut out here is going to face towards the back of the truck. So depending if you have a short bed or long bed, that's going to determine what you need to do with your latch pin here. In our case with our truck being a short bed, it's facing towards the front, we're going to put our latch pin on this side. And you always want the latch pin to be on the driver's side. If you had a long bed and this was flipped around, you'd simply just do this process from this side of the center section.What you're going to do is take the latch pin and slide it in. And these two holes here, you're going to line up with these little cutouts in our center section. We're going to secure that. We'll grab our two matching carriage bolts, drop them down flat and then two of our flange nuts and get both of them started. Then we can just tighten these down using a half inch socket.Now we come back underneath the truck and what we're going to do is take these washer plates and our large five eighths bolts and these washer plates are going to go on the outsides of our cross member here. This rear inaudible 00:17:19 washer plate's going to sit on the side close to the back of the truck. We're also going to do this to the front cross member, except that washer plate is going to sit on the other side towards the front of the truck. To do this, you just take the bolts, pass them all the way through, you can slide this cross member back all the way. And the reason that our bolts, we're leaving them pass all the way through, is because once we grab our center section we're going to be able to hold it up and slide our cross members together. And these bolts are actually going to pass through the center section and that's what's going to hold it up into place.Just to give you a better view on our center section, these are the holes that those bolts on our crossovers are going to slide through. We have two on this side and two on this side. Once this is up there and we have our bolts through, what we're going to do on the other side of those bolts is secure them all loosely using these big flange nuts. Now we'll take our center section underneath the bed of the truck, hold it up in place. Now this is relatively heavy, so if you need an extra set of hands, be sure to grab a friend. We'll pass them bolts through and get our nuts started.Now with our center section held in place, we can come over to our wheel wells and hold back our lining and you can see our brackets here are resting on the frame and these are lined up with the factory weld nuts that we talked about earlier. So we're going to get all that hardware in on each side. We're going to be using these bolts and we're just going to get them all started hand tight for now. Now before we tighten all of our hardware down, it's not a bad idea to hop up in the bed of the truck and make sure the hitch came through the hole nicely and is all centered just how you want it.Now there is a particular sequence that we need to follow whenever we're tightening and torquing all of our hardware. The first bolts that we're going to tighten up will be these four that is attaching our center section here through our cross members. Now if you move over here to our wheel wells, we can tighten up the bolts that hold the brackets to the frame. Before we tighten these, we want to make sure that the crossbars are running parallel with this bed hat channel here. That way everything will be nice and straight. Once you've verified that they are running parallel, that's when you can come and snug everything up. Now once we have these four tightened down on this side, we'll do the same thing on the other side.Now back underneath the truck, we can tighten up the hardware that holds our brackets to the cross member itself. We're going to have six bolts total that we need to tighten and that's because these two on the front driver's side cross member, we already tightened and torqued those down whenever we just put it in. Now that the hitch is secure, we can come back with a torque wrench and torque everything down to the amount specified in the instructions. We're going to use that same sequence that we just ran through to get everything torqued.With everything torqued down, we can now put on our handle. The way this is going to work, is on the driver's side we're going to take this metal end here and bring it around the outside of the frame and push it up. We're going to just hold this here. Now we're actually going to pull the pin out so we have some room to work. When you pull this out, you're going to want that handle eyelet to sit in line with the pin itself. It'll be on this side of this square piece here. We'll hold these two together. We're going to take a carriage bolt, push it through and we're going to take this eyelet on the backside of that carriage bolt and we can grab the included flange nut here and thread that on.It's going to be hand tight. We can come back with a half inch wrench and snug it up. When you're tightening this too, you want to position this handle to where it's not going to hang down and interfere with the frame or anything like that. You're going to want to hold it straight and that'll put it in that good position where it won't interfere and be easy to use.Here in our driver's side wheel well, we're going to have to trim out a little piece of our liner and that's because it's actually blocking our handle. What I went ahead and did is just held it like this, looked under there, just eyeballed where we need to cut. Now when it comes to cutting this out, what I like to do is cut as little as possible. That way if you need to make it a little bigger, it's no big deal, we can always do that. But if we get crazy and make it real huge, might not end up liking how it looks. This is almost like a cardboard type material, so I'm just going to use some tin snips to get it cut. You could probably even use a strong pair of scissors or utility knife too.Hold it back in place, try to pull it out, see if it interferes. You can just keep making your cuts and adjustments until you like how it feels and how easy it is to access for you. Going to take a little more off. I think that'll give us plenty of room to get our handle nice and easy.Now on our center section here, there's going to be two holes on each side of it, just like these. What we're going to need to do is actually drill these out. That way we can install our safety chain hooks. There's a couple of ways you can do this. You can come from the bottom and simply drill it out to the size listed in the instructions. Or you can be down here at the bottom, get a small drill bit, make a pilot hole and come up from the top and drill down. I'm just going to get the correct size bit and drill it completely from the bottom up. We'll just repeat that same process over on the other side.Back up top in the bed with all of our holes drilled, we can go ahead and clean up our mess. What we're going to do is grab our two safety chain U bolts and make sure that these go in the holes nice and easily. They should be able to move with ease as they do here. Now once we verify that, take these out, spray these holes with some spray paint to help protect that bare metal. Wait for that paint to dry, and then you'll take your hooks and just drop them back down through. Then you can move on to the underside of our truck again.Back underneath the truck, here's where our U bolt is coming down through our center section. What we're going to do is take one of these springs, you're going to put one spring over each end of the U bolt and a nut. We'll just get this hand tight for now, do the other one. Then we're going to tighten these nuts down until the bottom of the nut sits flush with the bottom of the U bolt. And once we have them flush, we'll just repeat that same process for the other side.Now we can reinstall all of our components down underneath the truck, we'll rehang our exhaust. And from there you can re-install your spare tire shield. Now something that I do want to point out is that the heat shield that we removed from up and over our exhaust, this will not be getting reinstalled so you won't have to worry about putting this back. Now we can go ahead and resecure our wheel aligners.Now at this point we can grab our ball and our included grease. We're going to put a little bit of grease on the ball, on the corners here. You don't have to really layer it on a ton, just a little bit. That'll just make for a quieter, smoother operation. Now we can reinstall our spare tire.That'll finish up our look at and our installation of the B&W Turnover Ball Under-Bed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on our 2020 GMC Sierra 2500.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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