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B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 we're going to be installing BMW's turnover ball under bed gooseneck, part number BWGNRK1016. Now this is what our goose neck is going to look like when it's installed. It's going to allow you to hook up to your gooseneck trailer, and has a tongue weight of 7,500 pounds, and a gross towing capacity of 30,000 pounds. The safety chain connections are retractable and spring loaded, so when you're not using them they spring down to be flushed, stay out of your way. When you're ready to use them you can just pull them up and make your connection. The included ball mount can be flipped over and stored upside down, and this way you've got full truck bed access.

You do want to verify on your particular truck, depending on the options you have, that the ball will not come into contact with any steering, drive line, or other components underneath. Additionally, you want to verify on your vehicle's owner's manual to ensure you're not exceeding any of its towing capacities. The handle that comes with it allows you to quickly lock and unlock your ball by giving it a simple twist.Here you can see our ball underneath in its stowed position. The entire assembly is a steel construction with a gray powder coat finish to resist against corrosion. It comes with all the hardware you need to get it installed.

There is some minor drilling. Let's show you how to do that now. We'll begin our installation by removing our spare tire. Now it's not necessary to remove the spare tire, but it will significantly give you more room to work and see what you're doing.Next we'll need to mark and drill out a four inch hole for our gooseneck in our truck bed. You want to refer to your instructions for the appropriate position where you're going to mark and drill.

The distance from the edge of your bed is going to be dependent upon the length of your bed. So we've got a short bed here, so we've marked it. We're now going to drill out our four inch hole. We'll now clean up our metal shavings, and then use some clear coat around the edge to prevent any rusting corrosion.Next we're going to remove our heat shield. We'll use a 13 millimeter socket to remove the bolts at the back and the front of the shield.

We can now take our heat shield down and set it aside as we won't be reinstalling it. Now we're going to cut out a notch on our passenger side just above our joust bumper. We're gonna use some tin snips to start here, and this will allow us to slide in our rails up above our frame.We can now slide in our front cross member. We want the smooth side to be towards the front and the side with the holes in it towards the rear. Then you can slide it towards the front of the truck. We can then slide in our rear section, and we'll finish sliding that over until it's roughly centeredWell then need to rotate our rear cross member so that it's upright. The holes are offset on our beam here, so we need to make sure that the holes are closest to the frame, so it's the bottom not the bed. So we're going to rotate again this way. To assist with rotation you tend to use an adjustable wrench to grab it and help you twist it. We can now slide it all the way back.Now on our front cross beam on the driver's side just above our fuel tank, we're going to pre install one of our bolts. Now the eight bolts that are identical, those are going to be the ones that go into your cross member. So we'll set that bolt in, we'll use the rubber O ring that comes in the kit to help keep that bolt in place. This just makes it easier to get your center section up and get this bolt in place due to the limited space from the fuel tank being there. We'll now raise our center section in place, and it may be useful to have an extra set of hands to help you get this lined up. Trying to make sure that hole lines up with the hole that we cut in our bed. We're going to use the shorter bolts to attach our front cross member and the longer bolts to attach our rear cross member.We'll now line the bolts up in the frame, take our center section and slide some of the hardware through. We're now going to get one bolt started on each side, so for the rear cross member we're going to use a bolt with a lock washer and a flat washer on it, and we're going to get that threaded in straight into the cross member. Once you get one started on each side will make it easy to hold up the rest of your hardware. The one that we had in our front cross member, now we we're just using to support it. We'll now put the correct hardware on that, which is going to be a bolt straight through the front member, then our center section, followed by a lock washer and a nut. We can now install the rest of our hardware in the same way for both the front and cross rear. With the lined up properly, you can see the pre installed bolt has made it through the whole of our center section. With all of our hardware loosely installed, we can tighten it all down using a 19 millimeter socket or wrench.Next we're getting ready to install our side plates. There are a factory weld nuts in the frame we'll be using. Depending on the condition of your truck, you may need to clean those out because you don't want your hardware to Gaul. So we're going to use some spray lube and a bristled brush and just clean out the dirt and debris, and then verifiable fits. If yours are particularly bad you may need to use a tap to clean them out. We're going to do that to the rest of the weld nuts. There's two on each side.Now we're ready to put our side plates on, so we'll slide those in place, lining up our holes. We'll install the large bolts that we just cleaned out the holes for. These have a lock washer and a flat washer on them, and we're going to thread those into those holes that we just cleaned out. Now we'll attach it to our cross members for the rear one. We'll take the shorter bolt with a lock washer and flat washer on it and we're going to slide it through and thread it into our rear plate. And we're going to be using the same hardware for the front bolt. We're also gonna need a nut. We'll slide the bolt through first from the forward going rearward. Then we'll slide on our flat washer, lock washer, and thread on our nut. We'll repeat these exact same steps on the opposite side.We can now go back and tighten up all of our hardware. The larger bolts we'll tighten with a 15/16 socket, and the smaller ones we'll tighten up with 19 millimeter sockets wrenches. Now we can torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. We also want to be sure that we torque all of our under a bed hardware as well.We'll now use a half inch drill bit and use our center section as a template to drill out the holes for the safety chains. I'll repeat that for the remaining holes. Just like before we'll vacuum them up and clear coat them. And now we can drop our U bolts down in the holes. Now we'll take our springs, slide them on our U bolts, and thread one of our locking nuts. We'll repeat that for the other side of the U bolt and the other U bolt too. Now we'll tighten them down with a 19 millimeter socket until they become flush with the bottom of the U hole.Next we'll install our handle. Your fender liner maybe in the way, ours is. So we're just gonna use some tin snips to just cut that out of the way. Now we can slide our handle in. We're going to slide it through the hole and our center section. We're going to line it up with the mechanism here. We'll insert our carriage bolt first through the center section and then through the handle. And on the other side of our carriage bolt we're going to thread on the small nut that comes in the kit And then we'll tighten it down with a 13 millimeter wrench or socket.With that done, we'll check its operation. You want to pull handle out, make sure that it goes in and out smoothly, and if you give it a little twist then it stays locked out. We can now test out the fit of our ball, and it drops right down in there. Now we can lock it in place by releasing the handle. As you can see, it's not going anywhere. We can now reinstall our spare tire and hit the road.And that completes our installation of the BMW's turnover ball under bed gooseneck on our 2017 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.

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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Dustin K
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video Edited:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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