Gooseneck Hitch Installation - 2010 Chevrolet Silverado

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How to Install a Gooseneck Hitch on a 2010 Chevrolet Silverado


Today on our 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the B&W turnover ball under bed gooseneck installation kit. Part number is BWGNRK1067. Now here you can see our hitch installed of course when it's not ready for use. This is a great benefit of the under bed style gooseneck ball mounts, is that we don't have that ball that sticks up in the middle of our be taking up space, and can a lot of times be hard to work around. These are designed to sit flush with the bottom of the bed. The safety chains might be a little bit higher, but it's so insignificant it's not really going to make a difference there. And when ready for use, our ball stores right in the gooseneck so we don't have to store it or look for it.

We're going to pull the pin on the outside. That's going to take the 5/8ths diameter pin out. Rotate that right over into its stored position then release our handle. Once our handle's released, you see our ball's going to be nice and secure. Now this is a 2 5/16ths inch ball.

It's been machined from one solid piece of steel to give it superior strength, and the square design of it is going to help to reduce any rotation effect that we might have. You see it can go in either direction there, either side is going to accommodate the 5/8ths diameter pin, and whether in the upright position like we have it now or in the stored position, it offers a corners only fit once it gets down to that second layer of the head. So any dirt or debris that might build up in here is eventually just going to run out with rain. And when we're ready to flip our ball over, we're going to pull that handle out, rotate it, lock it in the open position, we'll rotate our ball, and to re-secure it, just rotate it back in the clockwise position and that 5/8ths diameter pin is going to go right through the hole. As you can see, our custom under bed installation kit does a great job with fitting right in place where it needs to. Great thing about it is we don't have to modify the frame of the vehicle at all. We use existing holes or U bolts to make our way around there, get everything nice and secure.

They're constructed of heavy duty steel, so they should offer excellent service for years to come. Now the hitch itself is going to offer a 7500 pound vertical load limit, so that's the maximum downward force the hitch is rated for with your tongue coming down on it, and then it offers a 30,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. So that'd be the total weight of your trailer and anything you have loaded into it. You of course are going to need the check your truck specifications for towing and go off of whichever of those sets of numbers will be the load. As you'll see, our safety chain connection points also come up nice and high. It's going to give us a great opportunity to connect whatever size safety chains we might have.

When not in use, the spring loaded tension is going to keep them firmly down on our bed and reduce any rattle that we might get from them. To begin our installation, we're going to be underneath the rear of the truck here. We've removed the spare tire just to make it a little bit easier to see. We're going to trim our heat shield out. You have the option to fully remove it or trim it. I think it's easier just to trim it, so we're going to cut straight across in front of these two bolts that hold it in place. That'll give it an anchor point, then we're going to do the same thing on that front channel just behind those bolts. We want to clear out area from pretty much this edge to that forward edge of the hatch here. To do it, we're going to use a high speed cutoff wheel. You can use whatever cutting tool you prefer. Now while we're down here, we're also going to take this exhaust hanger off and we're going to block it to try to push down on this exhaust a little bit. That just buys us a little bit more space here during our install, so we can get that head into position. A long screwdriver or a pry bar usually does the job. Use a little spray lubricant to help it slide off there. We're just going to use a block to kind of space that out. Now we'll get the truck bed marked where we're going to be drilling our hole. In your instructions they're going to have measurements. Whether you got a short bed, long bed you want to follow those. We're going to come from the rear edge of the truck bed forward. We want to make our mark at the prescribed distance. Now if you have like a drop in bed liner, you're better off removing that to get your hole created. If you have a spray in bed liner you need to accommodate for the extra. So if it's a 16th or if it's an 8th you need to adjust for that to keep our hole in the right spot here. We're also going to center this up side to side. We want to make sure that we have it right in the center of our truck bed. We can do that from wheel well to wheel well. Once you have your spot marked, you want to reconfirm your measurements. You only want to drill one 4 inch hole in the bed of your truck. We're going to use a center punch to mark the dead center of that mark. Now we're going to use a four inch hole saw and get that drilled out. Now we're going to clean up the edge of that hole a little bit just the kind of smooth everything out. Now we can get all of our metal shavings cleaned up, and we're going to treat this with a little bit of clear coat or spray paint just to touch up that bare metal. Now we need to buy oursleves a little bit of room here on this edge to get our crossmembers to slide in. Well really the one for the front, the triangle shape. So we've got our tire here. Right above that you're going to have one of your hat channels that go across. We need to take a small notch out of this edge. We're going to do that 2 1/2 inches toward the front of the truck from that hat channel that runs across. That'll be the center. We want that to be a half of an inch high and we want it to be about an inch and a half wide, so there to there. Going to be taking off that little triangle just like that. Now we can slide our crossmember in place. We want it to go from our frame rail here all the way over to the passenger side frame rail. We're going to move this forward. The holes, you want those on the back side of the angle as you slide it in. We'll also slide our rear right in there as well. Now once we have our crossmember in place, the hole that's closest to the driver side, we need to put one of our bolts in. Just going to kind of slide that in from the back, just like that. Then there's a little O ring in your kit bring that O ring down over that to hold it in place. It's almost impossible to get your hand in there to do this later, so got to have that done. Now this is our rear crossmember. We need to get this rotated up in position, and when we do that we want the holes to be lower. You can see they're a little bit lower on that arm. We want those to be down. If it doesn't rotate freely you can just put an adjustable wrench on it, kind of help it in position. Now on the heat shield here on the end of the gas tank, it looks as though when we put our center section into place, this is going to give us some interference, worst case scenario. Best case scenario it'll just be in our way when we work. So we're go take it off from that rounded edge or that contour. We'll remove that just with some snips here, just like that. Just be careful because that edge can be a little sharp. Just use caution with it. Now we're going to get our center section lifted up into place. This is our release handle. We want that to be towards the driver's side of the truck. You'll see how our hole is slightly offset. That needs to be towards the rear of the truck, just to give you reference. Got three holes on the front edge. This one, the one on the driver's side is going to line up with that bolt we already installed. The other two line up with the holes in our crossbar. We'll bring this in, up over our exhaust, and then work it in above our tank there, like that. Now I'm going to move that front rail to line up with that bolt. We'll put a bolt in our center hole location, put on a lock washer and also thread on one of our hex nuts. Now for the rear connection where it goes to our rear crossmember we're going to use one of our bolts with a flat washer and lock washer on it. Line up the center section with the hole in the bed and place a bolt through our holes there and thread it into that rear crossmember. Now we just want to go up top. We're going to take a quick look and see how the center section here is lining up with our hole. We can adjust it a little bit as necessary. Now here on the driver's side, if this oval shaped hole is blocked, that's part of a factory brake controller, we need to remove that by taking these two screws out. We've got one here and one here. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket. We want to save these screws because we're going to be reusing them. We have a relocation bracket for this, so . That'll clear it out of the way here so we can get our side bracket in. When we get underneath there we'll show you how to reattach it. Now we're going to move on to attaching the side plates. See how these are meant to bend out, away from the frame That's going to make it a little easier for us to get to that hardware. We've attached it with three of the short carriage bolts, then we got to put on a flat washer, lock washer and the nut. We want to leave that so it still has some adjustment. We don't want to tighten it down. This is going to help us to align our holes, get everything in position, but for now we're going to stick these two flanges up between the two crossrails. Got that in position, we'll bring one of our bolts through the front crossmember, through our plate, we'll add on a flat washer, then a lock washer and a nut. Here's the brake controller relay. We've moved it up out of the way for now. Here's our relocation bracket. You can see those two bolts are going to slide down on there. Need to take this larger bolt, place on one of our oval bushings just like that, and it's going to go through the oval shaped hole in the frame. Now up against the frame on the outside, we're going to have our large flat washer, put the bushing up in the frame, inaudible 00:12:01 bolt through it. Now on the outside of our bracket we can place on our lock washer and also our hex nut. We want enough pressure on that so that it'll keep those spacers from coming out, so that side plate should be pretty much right up against the frame. Now we'll slide the two bolts on our relay down into the two slots on that bracket, then we can get it tightened down. Now we're going to install our U bolt. Needs to come through this hole right here. As you can see, we've got some interference here with this line that runs from up by our brake controller. So we going to take it out of this hole, and we can attach it right into the hole in the side plate. Use a screwdriver or maybe a trim panel removal tool, pop that down and out. As we put this in position, we need to avoid getting it around this wire loom, so we're going to go underneath that and over our frame like that. We don't want to have these brake lines pinched or this wire loom pinched. Once we've got that through our holes, we're going to add on a lock washer and a nut on each end of the U bolt bring that wiring down, slide it right in position like we talked about. Now we're going to go do the exact same thing on the passenger side, although we don't have to worry about the relocation bracket. Now we're going to snug down and torque our hardware. We're going to start by securing our center section to our crossrails. Now we're going to move on to torquing our 3/4 inch bolts down. Do that on each side. Now we'll move on to getting our U bolts torqued down. We want to do this evenly top to bottom and follow the specifications listed. Now we'll do the same thing for our driver's side. Now we'll get the three carriage bolts tightened down appropriately. Then finally we're going to come in here, we're going to get our side plates tightened to our crossmembers. Now we can slide our release handle in over the frame rail there, and we'll bring it through the half round hole in the end of the center section. Once that's through we're going to bring it back til it lines up with the hole in that tab. We place in our carriage bolt, on the back side we've got a locking flange nut. Now we can use a 13 millimeter. We just want to tighten that down so it's snug. We don't need to overtighten it. Now we can pull out on our handle, rotate that clockwise, that's going to lock it in the open position for us. Rotate is the other way, allow that to come in, that goes into the lock. Now when we install our safety chain U bolts, we're going to have two holes here. Some are going to be a little closer to the middle, some further out. You want to choose the hole that lines up with the bottom of the corrugations so you safety chains sit down flush. In our case, it's going to be the two here a little bit closer to the middle. That's going to be on both sides. I'm going to take a half inch drill bit and I'm going to use that to mark the center of the holes. Now I'm going to use those marks and a smaller drill bit. I'm going to drill pilot holes you through, then we'll go through the top and drill down. It'll be easier to do that way. Now we just want to check the fit of our U bolts. We want to make sure that we drop through freely, that they move freely. Looks like the holes are in the right position there. A little more clear coat, we'll take care of that. We'll head down and put on our hardware. Now onto each one of our bolts we're going to place on of our springs. I'm going to thread on one of our lock nuts, and then we're going to tighten that down til about a quarter inch of threads come out underneath the nut. That's good there. We'll do that for the three remaining locations. Pull our block of wood out of there, get our exhaust hung back up, and our hitch will be ready for use. And that will complete our installation of the B&W turnover ball under bed installation kit, part number BWGNRK1067, on our 2010 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD.


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