B and W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Ford F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install the B and W Turnoverball Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Ford F-350 Super Duty


Today on our 2017 Ford F350, we're going to take a look at and also show you how to install the B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch with Custom Installation Kit, part number is BWGNRK1117. As far as the installation process on this, it's a really straightforward install. The parts come in sections rather than these being solid rails. They're much easier to get in than previous models. You've got custom side plates, they're going to come to the custom crossmember brackets into the crossmember, and then finally into the center section here. Everything's pretty accessible and torquing it down is actually easier on this type of fifth wheel than what we've had in years past, so it makes it really nice, a little bit easier to do at home. The release handle is going to be here in the driver side wheel well. That's something you're just going to pull straight out and then forward.

Gives us a good positive lock out. After our ball's in place, we'll just slide that towards the rear of the truck and allow that to slide through. That engages that 5/8 diameter pin. When not in use, this is what our truck bed's going look like. As you can see, the turnover ball is going to be stored in the downward position, and the safety chain connection points are in the lower portions of the corrugation, so they're not sticking up either. It gives us a nice, smooth bed surface.

When we're ready to use our hitch, we'll simply pull our release handle in the driver side wheel well. Once that's released, we'll be able to pull up on our turnover ball and do just that, turn it over, slide it in position, then release our latch so that pin goes through. This is a 2 5/16 inch ball. This has been machined from a solid piece, so it's going to give us superior durability, it's going give us great strength. Once in position, we have a good, snug fit in here. The corners are left open just slightly to allow for dirt and debris and things like that to fall down through if need be.

The hitch does offer a vertical load limit, or a maximum downward force here of 7,500 pounds, and a gross trailer weight rating of 30,000 pounds. That would be the total weight of your trailer and anything you load up on it. Of course, you do want to consult the owner's manual on your truck. You want to see what it's rated for and go off of whichever of those numbers are the lowest. We're going to begin our installation by getting our hole drilled in the bed. It's going to be a 4 inch hole saw's typically the easiest way to do it.

You'll measurements in the instructions. You just want to go by those. With the 350 here, it's got a spot marked here. I checked it, it is centered. We just want to confirm that that measurement's going to be the same from the back of the bed there. Yeah, that looks good. It's already got a little center punch there, so just time to get it drilled out. Once you've got your hole drilled out, it's a good idea to get all these little metal shavings vacuumed up so you're not tracking them around. Now we'll check around. If we have any sharp edges or anything like that, we can use a Carbide bit to clean up the edge or a file. Now we'll get our side plates put in. In all your four wheel drive models or most of your two wheel drive models, the plate for the inside's already welded in. You can kind of see that right here and right here. If your application does not have those welded in, those interior plates should have come with your kit. Once we've got that established, we're going to take the long 4 inch 5/8 bolt. It's going to go through the rear hole and the front hole, and then we're going to place those through the two holes in our frame. You can see one here, one here. On the passenger side, we're going to do the exact same thing that we've done here, it's just going to be a little bit shorter. Inside we want to slide on the flat washer, we're going to slide on a locking washer, and also a hex nut. We're going to do that for all four of the bolts we brought through the frame. We're going to run these down snug, hand tight, but you still want your brackets outside to be able to move a little bit. You'll see here on the passenger side, we'll have plenty of room to get our nuts in place or washers in place. As we start putting the cross sections in, we might run into a little interference with the exhaust here just because it's so limited. What we're going to do is take out the two bolts inside of the frame rail, and the exact same side on the outside of the frame rail. That's going to allow this exhaust to come down just a little bit. That'll give us just a little bit of flexibility to pull that down. We want to be sure that if you do remove these, of course though, you put them back in. Now we can get our crossmember brackets put in place. For the rears, we're going to use the pieces that have the thinner steel at the bottom. You can see how it's got that little turn-in to it. Essentially what's going to happen is when we put this in, you can see the threaded hole here and here, these bolts, just a 1/2 inch bolt, they're going to have the thread locker on them. Place on your lock washer, we're going to pass those up through the rail, then we'll thread them in here. Place this up and over like that. You can see our bolt hole here has lined up. We'll place our bolt in. We're also going to do the same thing where our threaded hole lines up here on the outside of the frame rail. The one for the passenger side is just going to look the opposite of this one. We'll do the same thing for our front brackets, although these are going to be a little bit bigger, and this time they've got that straight flange on them. As you slide this up and over, be careful of your connectors here. You don't want to pinch these, you don't want to have them sandwiched between the hitch and the bracket or anything like that. Now we're going to take the front crossmember, it's just the square tube, it's got some holes drilled in it. Four on this side, three on that side. And our washer plate. Our washer plate's going to line up over these two holes on the passenger side, but it's going to be around the front. We'll bring bolts through these two holes on the end and the last hole over here. Just like that. Just guide it up into position here. We'll bring those two bolts down through that passenger side bracket. Under each one we're going to place on a locking washer and a hex nut. For our front bracket, we'll bring our 5/8 bolt back and through. Slide it through just like we did on the passenger side. Then we're going to place on our rectangular washer, lock washer, and nut. We'll bring our rear crossmember up. It just slides basically right there on that back side. Got a shorter 5/8 bolt. Put the flat washer, lock washer on it. To get our center section in place, we want to take the 1/2 inch by 4 inch bolts and we're going to place one in each of the four holes from the front to the back, going through that crossmember. Remember that washer plate that you installed, you also want to be sure it goes through that. We're just going to kind of get them staged here. When we get that center section in place, that's going to make them easy to pop through. You just want to be sure when you position this that this U-shaped portion, that's what you actually pull your pin out with and what locks your latch open. You're going to make sure that that's facing over towards the driver side. Take one of our lock washers that we'll place on and one of our hex nuts. We're going to do that for all four of our bolts here. Our rear section will come up. Get our plates to move around so that the holes that we have here line up with the threaded holes that are in the rail. Once we have our holes lined up, we're going to take our 1/2 inch bolt, place on a lock washer and a flat washer, and we're going to get those threaded into the rear rail. Once we've made sure that we have that centered in the hole here, we want to start following the torquing process or how to tighten everything down in order to keep it this way. We'll check it a couple more times along the way, just to make sure we get it as centered as possible. The first bolts we'll tighten will be the center section here, the four in the front and four in the back there that tighten that to the cross rails. Now we'll tighten down the bolt that holds the crossmember bracket to the side rails. We're just going to have this snug. We still want to be able to adjust our hitch a little bit if necessary. Once our center section has been snugged up against those crossmembers, we want to take a look at the gaps that are created between the hat channel and the rails. We want to make sure that that's even going across. That indicates to us that we've got our hitch in here squarely, but we need to once again check our hole location, center that up, and continue on with the torquing process. Now when we tighten our cross tube brackets here, we're going to start with the inside passenger on the front. Then we'll come catty corner to that, still stay inside the frame rail. We'll come back to the driver side rear on the inside of the frame and tighten that one. Once we reexamine our hole, make sure it's centered, then we'll tighten up the two remaining on the inside of the frame rail. Once those are snug, we'll tighten up the four on the outside of the frame rail. Now we'll head through and get our 5/8 hardware torque down here, and then we'll just follow the instructions on the hook specifications and get everything torqued down properly. Now we can take our latch handle, we're going to slide it over top of our side plate. It's got that little angle with the square holes, that's going to go in first. Slide it all the way in, get that to go in and under just like that. We're going to align it with those holes, but we need to pull this out a little bit, just like that. Then push it forward. That's going to have it in the open position. When that's open to keep that from snapping back, it's recommended to slide a little piece of wire, maybe an Allen key or a drill bit in there. That'll keep that from releasing. Down and to the top of the handle, we'll place our two small carriage bolts. We will bring those down through the bracket there. That one popped out. We've got our two locking nuts to thread on the bottom, then of course just snug them down. Pull our tool out of there. You'll see when we pull that handle back it's going to release. We want to check for clearance right up here. You can see all the wires that run up here, the hoses. Just make sure that you're not going to have any real interference when we pull it open. See, it's going to just touch that wire a little bit. I think I'm just going to zip tie that down and out of the way just like that. We're going to use our center section here with four holes, we got two here and two there. That's going to be our guide for the 1/2 inch holes that need to go up through our bed. We'll check, it looks like they're both going to be sitting down in the corrugation, which is a good thing. I like to start with my 1/2 inch bit. I'm going to center that in the hole, and then just run it through a second so it will create a center mark for me. We'll do that in all four locations. I'm going to use a much smaller bit and drill pilot holes in all four of those locations up through the bed. We'll see on the top here where those came out. They look like they're pretty square, pretty straight in line so let's get those in large now. We don't need a lot of pressure. This is aluminum, you don't want to rip it up. Just let your bit do the work. Now we can get this stuff cleaned up. Now we'll take our U-bolt, just want to kind of wiggle them down through. That's going to have good freedom there to move. Once they're in place and we can confirm they slide up and down properly, we'll go secure them on the bottom with the springs and lock nuts. We'll place our spring up and on, get a lock nut started, and we'll tighten that so it's about flesh. Now we'll get our exhaust line back up with its bolt hole locations here, and we're going to resecure it up as well. With everything back in place, that's going to complete our installation of the B&W Turnoverball Underbed Gooseneck Trailer Hitch, part number BWGNRK1117, on our 2017 Ford F350.


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video by:
Chris R
Video by:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C

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