B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch Installation - 2012 GMC Sierra 3500

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How to Install the B and W Gooseneck Trailer Hitch on a 2012 GMC Sierra 3500


Speaker 1: Today on our 2012 GMC Sierra 3500, we're going to be installing the B&W Turnoverball under-bed gooseneck trailer hitch. Part number BWGNRK1012. This what our hitch looks like when it's installed. The great thing about this hitch is it's going to be an under-bed setup. It's going to give you total access inside your bed. This is going to be your center section.

This is what's going to hold your Turnoverball. You're going to have two rails that stretch from frame rail to frame rail to hold this in place. This is what our frame brackets are going to look like.You're going to have one on driver's side and passenger's side. They're going to mount directly to existing holes inside the frame. So you're not going to do any drilling or welding.

All your under-bed components are going to have a gray powder coat finish. So they're going to help resist any corrosion. This is what our hitch looks like in the back of our bed. The ball is going to be two-and-five-sixteenths-inch. You're going to have a vertical low limit of 7,500 pounds, which is straight up and down on the ball, and you're going to have a 30,000 pound gross towing capacity.You're going to have spring-loaded safety chain hooks.

One of the best features of this hitch is that the ball can be taken out and turned over to give you total bed access. Simply drop it into place. Lock your five-sixteenths-inch pin in place. That's going to secure the ball down inside the hole. To begin our installation, we've gone ahead and removed our spare tire.

This isn't necessary but it's going to make our installation easier. Next, we're going to lower our exhaust down for some additional clearance. Now, before you do this, you want to make sure you put a strap in place to catch the exhaust to prevent it from causing any damage to the vehicle or drop them down too far.To begin lowering your exhaust, you want to move this heat shield out of the way. Remove the two bolts on the backside of the heat shield using a 13-millimeter socket. Now, we can slide our exhaust hangers off so it'll drop down. There's one here, and there's another here located in front of the drive axle. To make these come off easier, use some silicone lubricant and spray the ends. Now, you can pry it off with a pry bar. Then do the same for your other hanger. This allows it to drop down some. Now, we've already gone ahead and made our marks where we're going to need to remove our heat shield.We'll be taking out this section. You can do this with a pair of tin snips or a cutting wheel similar as to what we're going to use here. Now, if you do use a cutting wheel, make sure you're wearing safety glasses so you don't get anything in your eye. Now, if you didn't cut it and it didn't quite go all the way because it wouldn't get close enough to the frame, you can bend it back and forth to get it to break, or you can just finish it off with a little quick snip. We can just discard this piece. Be careful, the edges might be sharp.Now, we'll need to make our markings. We can cut our four-inch hole in our bed. Refer to your instructions for the location to make your marks. The distance you'll need to measure is going to vary depending on the size of your truck bed. You want to make sure that you measure from the edge of your truck bed inward, not at the tailgate, and you can find the specified distances in your instructions. Then you need to make sure you have it completely centered. So you'll want to measure side to side and mark the center line. We're going to go ahead and make a pilot aisle here, and then we'll step it up to the correct size for our hole saw.Now, to prevent any rust or corrosion from occurring in the future, it is a good idea to take some clear coat and just spray it over the edges of the hole there. Now, we're on our passenger's side just above the frame rail. You see the rubber jounce bolt here. We're going to be making a mark here so we can cut out a notch to install some of our hardware. We're going to need to cut out about two inches. We'll go ahead and mark that on our vehicle here, and we're going to be cutting that in a triangular shape so we can get our hardware in. Now, before you get ready to make your cut, you want to make sure you move any wiring or anything else out of the way that might be damaged.Once you've got that out of the way, we're ready to make our cut. If you've got a little bit left, you can just work it back and forth and pull it off with a pair of pliers because you don't want to cut too deep into your bed liner there and go up into your bed. Now you can go and take a file and knock off any burrs, and you'll want to spray it with some clear coat again, like we did above to prevent any rust from occurring. Now, for all of your holes on your support beam, you're going to want to take your bolt, put it in, and check and make sure that it goes in.It might help to use a little spray lubricant. Run it down and run it back to clean the holes out to make it easier during installation. Now, we're going to install our front rail, and we want our threaded holes to face towards the rear of the vehicle. We're going to slide it up on top of the frame rail and the notch that we cut earlier. Now, we can go underneath and finish pulling it through. Once we get it through, we want to angle it this direction. So the hold end is straight down, and the flat end is up against the bottom of the bed.Now we're going to take our half-inch-by-one-and-a-half-inch-long bolt, slide it through the second hole from the driver's side and take the single included rubber O-ring and slide it down over that bolt. We want to make sure we get it all the way down to hold the bolt fully in the hole. Once you've got your bolt in, we can pull the rest of the cross member over. Now you want to tip it up so the holes are facing towards the rear of the vehicle and slide it forward. You want to bottom it out against the support beam going across.Now, we've got our center section here. We're getting ready to put it into place. When this goes into place, we're going to put the thinner edge here with these circular holes towards the front of the vehicle, with the handle facing towards the driver's side. Our double piece here, with the elongated holes, will go towards the rear of the vehicle. Now, we're going to want to set it into place. Grabbing an extra set of hands can make this quite a bit easier. Now, our holes are offset on our cross member. So you want to make a mark with an arrow indicating which position needs to be up or down. The holes need to be closest to the lowest spot.Go ahead and put your cross member in place, making sure it slides all the way across to the other frame rail. If necessary, you might have to go underneath to finish pulling it over. Now I've got it in, we can turn it upright. It may be difficult to get it all the way upright, so you can use a crescent wrench to get a little extra leverage to help you turn. Now, we're going to bolt our front cross member to our center section using a half-inch-by-one-and-a-half-inch-bolt, half-inch nut, and half-inch lock washer. You'll need four of each of these to connect to the center section. Now slide your bolt through, and you want to do this for all four holes, and you'll put on your lock washer followed by your nut.Now, repeat that for the remaining three bolts. Now, we're going to connect our rear crossbar. You'll do this using a half-inch-by-two-inch bolt lock washer and flat washer. You'll need four of these. Slide the lock washer on first followed by the flat washer. Line up your center section with your cross section. Slide the bolt through the elongated hole and thread it into your crossbar. Then do the same thing for the three remaining holes. Now, we're going to assemble our bolt guides. You'll use your five-eighths-thick bolts for this, and you'll install the bolts facing down. Thread your bolt in all the way down until the head of the bolt stops against one of those tabs.When you're done, you'll have four that will look like this. Now, we'll put our bolt guides in the frame. Slide your bolt in first. The short one will be located here. Do that on both sides. Then we'll use our long bolt guides for our rear bolts. Just slide them in from the inside of the frame. Feel for the head of the bolt and then poke it out. Do that on both sides. Now we can put our side plates on. There's a passenger and driver side plate. When you put it on, you want the larger end with the angles towards the front of the vehicle and the flat end towards the rear of the vehicle.Slide it up over the bolts that we just put in, and you'll put on a large flat washer, the largest in your kit; a large lock washer, which is also the largest in the kit, and a five-eighths nut. Repeat that same process on the other side. Now, we're going to slide our bolts through our upper holes that connect to our cross members, half-inch-by-one-and-a-half-inch bolt. Slide on a lock washer and a flat washer and thread it into the rear cross member. Then we'll take a half-inch-by-one-and-a-half-inch bolt. Starting from the front of the vehicle, slide it to the front cross member, then through our side plate.Put on a flat washer, lock washer, and a half-inch nut. Install both of these sets of hardware the same way on the other side. Now tighten down your center section hardware using a three-quarter-inch socket and a three-quarter-inch wrench. Do this for all four front and all four rear cross member bolts. Now take a measurement between the nearest truck bed cross member and your front cross bed member. You want to do this on both sides and make sure that they're even. If they're not even, you'll need to loosen back up, make some small adjustments forward or backward until you get it square.Now, you can go back and tighten all of your remaining hardware and torque it for the specifications in your instruction. Now, we can drill out our holes located in our center section for our safety chains and repeat that for the three remaining holes. Now, take your handle, slide it into the hole in the center beam and the cross member. Slide it into the opening above the frame rail. Position your carriage bolt through the release pin. Put the loop on your handle over the carriage bolt and tighten it down with the small nut.Now take the U-bolts, which act as your safety chain loops, and slide them into the holes you just previously drilled. Now, slide on your spring with the small end facing down and thread on your nut. Now do that for the other U-bolt. Now, tighten them down with a three-quarter-inch socket until it's flush with the bottom of the U-bolt. Do that for the other U-bolt. Now we can put back up our exhaust and our spare tire, and that completes our installation of the B&W Turnoverball under-bed gooseneck trailer hitch. Part number BWGNRK1012 on our 2012 GMC Sierra 3500.


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