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B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit Installation - 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

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How to Install the B and W Companion 5th Wheel Underbed Kit on a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 2500

Shane: Hey guys, Shane here with I have a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado, 2,500. I will walk you on how to install B&W's Underbed Gooseneck Fifth Wheel Trailer Hitch Receiver. Having this setup is going to allow you to utilize your bed space when you're not pulling a trailer. On the other side of that, it's going to give you your gooseneck hookup and you can also store install a fifth wheel slider with this same setup.The under bed design of this kit allows for full truck bed access when you're ready. It's under five minutes to convert your empty truck bed into a fifth wheel hitch. We'll start by unlocking our B&W hitch and installing our fifth wheel adapter.

We have ours preassembled, but you can adjust the uprights here depending on your truck and trailer combination. At this point, the hitch is ready to attach to the trailer.There's a little clip here that you can release. Basically, it's a safety pin. Then you can swing the handle out and you can watch the jaws open. You're ready to back into your trailer now.

Once you're secure under the trailer, you can reinstall the clip. Since the fifth wheel installation kit doubles as a gooseneck hitch, when you're not selling your fifth wheel, you can remove it, turn it over and we can store it upside down in the hitch, that way we'll have full bed access. The benefit of having this setup being able to use either a fifth wheel or gooseneck is maybe you pull a gooseneck trailer through the week, and then you have a fifth wheel that you want to pull on the weekends. This being a short bed truck, I would recommend if you're going to go the fifth wheel side, is to pick up the companion fifth wheel slider and that's by B&W also.The ball is going to be two and 5/6 inch. You're going to notice it has a square base.

It's going to have holes on all sides, so it can go in any way. The square base is going to keep the ball from twisting inside of the hole. You'll notice that the edges here are curved. What that does while this is in here, allows dirt and debris to fall out of the bottom and not get caught inside of there. Weight capacities for this, we're going to have a 30,000 pound gross towing weight.

We're going to have a 7,500 pound vertical load limit, which is straight up and down on the ball. You want to make sure you check your vehicle's owner's manual. Make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight. You always want to go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch.Another nice benefit to this, is this is a turnover ball. What we can do is we take this when we're not towing a trailer, slide it down inside and you can see it's nice and flat against our bed. We come over here to our safety chain loops, our safety chain hooks. You can see here, they're on the lower part of the corrugation, so they sit nice and tight. If we're still wanting to put plywood, drywall or anything in here, we can still maintain the use of the whole bed. They're going to be spring loaded so you can see they stay nice and tight down to the bed when we're not them. If we're going to put a hook on, we got it hooked to our trailer, you can see they're not going to stay raised up in the air. Again, pulls our hook even down tight to the bed.As far as our handle, it's very simple to use since it is going to have a nice rubber coating on it. To lock it open you simply pull it out, twist and it lacks open and allows you to put your ball in the upright or store position. To unlock in slide the pin over. You just twist it back and let it go and it's going to lock that device in place.Overall, my professional opinion, if I was looking for an underbed hitch, I would go with B&W. The construction of it is outstanding. All the components are a really, really thick steel. It's going to have a nice thick gray powder coat finish. It's really going to hold up well against rust and corrosion. This one is very simple to put in. It's pretty simple and straightforward. It's going to come with all the hardware.There's not going to be any drilling or major modifications. The only thing we're going to have to do is our two holes for each of our safety chain loops, and our hole right in the center. Everything else bolts together, right to the frame rails. Again, very simple, straightforward to put in.To start your installation, it's a good idea to remove your spare tire. We can do this and we can start a couple of different ways. You can start underneath the truck and there's going to be a heat shield. You have to lower your exhaust and stuff like that.What I like to do is start up here with the hole I'm going to put in the bed, that way I'm not going back and forth a bunch of times. In the back of the bed, we're going to measure from the edge of our bed and make sure it's not the tailgate. From the edge of the bed, per the instructions, right up the center and we need to mark that. Keep in mind if you have a drop-in bed liner, which is a plastic one you need to remove it. If you have a spray in bed liner, you want to add on that measurement for the thickness of the bed liner. I'm going to add on a sixth inch to an eighth of an inch to my measurement. I'm going to mark on the center rib, just going to put a little dot.What we need to do is measure between our wheel wells, divide that in half and that will be our center mark. Next time I'd take a four inch hole saw bit with the drill bit, and I'm going to drill this whole out. What I like to do is, take a piece of plywood, use that bit, put a four inch hole in it and use that as a guide, so that when this starts hitting the metal, it doesn't bounce around. It makes it easy because you can step on this board and once it wraps around that bit, it makes it a little bit easier. If you don't have this board or you don't have a way to do this, you just take the drill and put it behind your ankle like this, or behind your calf when you're doing it, it'll keep this from kicking and hurting your wrists.What I like to do is take a file and file off the edges of the bars. We'll clean it up and then we're going to take some spray paint and spray that edge, that bare metal to keep it from rusting and corroding later on. We're going to take a 13mm socket, and we're going to remove this heat shield around the bolt straight up here, and then we're going to have one right up here. We'll set this aside to be reinstalled later.We'll take the same 13mm socket, we need to remove this heat shield. We're going to have a bolt right up here on top, one on the other top brace over there and you'll add two on your passenger frame rail. Once you get through, you're going to remove this one. This one will not be re-installed. On each side of the vehicle, we're going to take a T15 torx bit and we're going to remove these three screws.We're going to pull back our wheel well liner. What we're looking for, is these two holes here and you had two more right here. These are going to be threaded holes for our brackets. What we need to do, is we're going to take some lubricant, we're going to spray in each one of those holes and take a tube brush like this, or a wire brush and we're going to just make sure we don't have anything caught inside of those holes. Get any dirt or anything like that out so our bolts don't cross thread.What I like to do is once I get the holes cleaned out is, find where they are on top of the frame rail and put a little mark on each of them, right in the center. That way, when you go to put your cross beam up your bracket, you are in the area of where those are going to be. Next thing we want to do is, we're going to get our two cross members and these four brackets. We want to get the cross member and you'll find a welded seam in there. We want that to be in the center of this bracket. Sprank is going to slide on in like this, and we will match the hole. We want to center it in that oval hole. We're going to take a long hex bolt. It's a five inch hex bolt. We're going to go through the bracket to the other side.We're going to put on a flange nut. We're going to tighten 15/16 socket wrench. We're going to tighten everything down then we'll come back and torque. You want to make sure when you tighten this down, there's no gap here. Just make sure this bracket is flat against your cross-member. All right. We're going to take our cross member. This is going to be our forward one. We want this part of the side bracket facing down. We're going to overarch the exhaust to find a spot to work it on. Find your mark inaudible 00:10:14 set up like that. Let that rest on your exhaust. Now we'll take our other side bracket. We're going to slide it up between our exhausts on our frame and we're going to match it the same way we did the other ones. Keep in mind, do you have any wires or anything over here, then make sure you don't get those caught inside there.Again, we're going to line up our holes and then we're going to run the same combination of hardware through those. Once you get these bolts installed, you're going to repeat the process for the back one with the exception is when we're going to hand tighten the bolts we're not going to torque one side down. Once you get your rear one in, you're going to have a plate like this. It's going to go on the outside, we'll take another five inch bolt, we want to pass it through so that the threads are on the inside. We will take it and slide it back like this. We're going to do the same thing for our front one. We will slide it like that.This is our head or center section. You'll notice this gap here. For a short bed truck, this gap is going to go towards the front and our hat chain on our bed is going to actually sit right inside of this. If you have a long bed, all you're going to do is take this and it's going to be on the backside. You always want the handle to be on the driver's side. However yours is, you just slide it out like that and slide it into the other side, since we're going to be installing it like that. Again, we want it on the driver's side. You're going to get two bolts, slide them down just like that, plan this nut. We're going to take our center section, we're going to get it lined up and slide the bolts through like that, and that'll hold our center section up. Take a flange nut on each one and we're going to hand tighten them.Next, we're going to install our frame bolts. Roll in to tighten that down about that much. The reason we leave one side loose so that we can spread that bracket out a little bit or slide it, so we can get these installed, all four holes on each frame rail. What we need to do is open the bed of the truck. We need to get the hitch. The center section pulled up tight against the bottom of the bed. What I like to do is most people don't have a hoist is take a couple of boards. You can take a two by four and go straight across your bed rails if you want. Do this, take a strap and hook it on the pin. You can take small two by four, go across two blocks like this, and we can use that to get it pulled up tight. We can go down and start tightening our hardware.First, we're going to tighten the four bolts, holding our center section into our cross-members. We'll use a 15, 16 socket wrench to do that. I'll take an 18mm socket. We're going to tighten our N14 bolts that are going into our frame rails. You can come back and you can tighten in your six remaining 5/8 bolts on your cross-members. Once we get all of our hardware tightened, we're going to come back and we're going to torque it in the same sequence that we tighten it down. Then you want to make sure you're using the specifications that are listed in your instructions.Once you get everything torqued down, come back in the bed, you can remove your hoist or whatever you use to lift your center section up. Then you want to go back and double-check all of your hardware, go ahead and go through it again, same sequence. Torque it again, just to make sure nothing has loosened up while you had it pulled up tight against the bottom of the bed.Next, we will install our handle. May be easier if you take this, pull your tent out, work it in the open position. We're going to slide our handle out. We want this ring, so that the open edge is down on the bottom side and it's going to be on the front side of this one. You see this, we want it to sit like this. It'll make it easy to get your bolt through, slide it out and lock it open. Take your bolt, you're going to slide it through the bracket inaudible 00:15:28 inside and lock in the nut. You want to tighten it down with the 13mm socket.Now what we're going to do is, we're going to drill out for our safety chain loops. We're actually going to be using these two holes on each side, and they're going to be opened up to 11/16s. What I like to do is take a small bit, make sure we get centered on the hole, and then we're going to work top. I'm actually going to use a step bit from the top side down. That makes it a little bit easier when drilling them. Once you get your holes to the correct size, again, come back, spray paint, spray the bare metal, let it dry. Then you can insert your safety chain in and so, what do you want to make sure, you want to make sure they're going to move freely and to make sure they're not going to get hung up on the edges. If you need to go a little bit bigger, you can.Next you're going to get some Christmas tree springs like this. You want the wide end going up. We're going to slide it over the top of the bolt. We're going to have a lock nut that's going to go on. We'll install one of these on each one of the bolts that we brought down for our safety chain hooks. We're going to take a 15/16 socket. We're going to tighten that nut just enough so that the bolt head is flat with the edge.Then we can install our heat shield for our spare tire. Keep in mind when will not be installing the second one. Then you can put your three bolts back in for your panels or your wheel-well panels. Now, what we need to do is on our driver's side, we need to trim it out for our handle. What I like to do is just mark it. We can use a utility knife, or you can use really anything. This is just cardboard. It should cut pretty easy. See how I have it cut here. This makes it easy when getting your hand in there to grab it and to lock it. With just a little slit here, it's hard to get just your fingers in there and grab it. It makes it a pain. This allows you to get your whole hand in there to grab it, unlock the pen and to lock it back and forth. Once you get that cut out, go ahead and reinstall your spare tire and you're ready to go.That's going to do it for our look at and installation on the B&W Gooseneck Fifth Wheel Under Bed Hitch, on our 2020 Chevrolet Silverado, 2,500.

Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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