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Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System for Air Helper Springs Installation - 2019 Chevrolet Silverad

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How to Install the Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System for Air Helper Springs on a 2019 Chevrole


Hey everybody. Connor here today at etrailer.com. We're gonna be taking a look at the air lift wireless air compressor system here for our 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 3500. So in regards to air compressor kits, this is definitely going to be a personal favorite of mine. And the reason for this, it is extremely easy to install and use. It is a lot easier to install than pretty much any other air compressor system we offer.

And the reason for this, everything is going to be contained on one bracket. We have our manifold and our compressor mounted on one bracket, which we can bolt onto the vehicle with a U-bolt. Therefore there's no drilling into the vehicle either. So we don't have to make any permanent modifications. It's super simple to install and definitely one I encourage you guys to do at home by yourself.

So in regards to using our airbags, we have two options. We can use the wireless remote, which comes with our kit. We can also use an app on our phone, whichever we prefer. Now, I do really like this wireless remote here. It's not too small, so we don't have to worry about losing it in the vehicle.

It has a nice ergonomic grip. So basically we'll show you how this works here. So we want to press the center button to turn it on. That's going to wake our controller up. So right now, we have 35 PSI in each of our airbags.

That's actually going to be the max right now, the way it's currently configured, because it's set up to be used with the air springs that install inside the coil springs. However, if you have a truck with the larger double bellow air bags, which have a much higher PSI rating of usually 100, even up to 150, in certain cases, we can go ahead and adjust the max inflation. In order to do this, we need to hold down the center button here for five seconds. This is gonna bring up our menu and then we can go to settings, airbag type. And then we can see here the different types of airbags. We are gonna go with the load lifter or the ride control. Both of those are 100 PSI. So we'll go ahead and choose one of those. Saved. Now, if we go back to the main screen here, we should be able to increase our pressure further than 35 PSI. Go up to 50, just as a baseline. Hit the middle button and we should hear our compressor kick on. So as we mentioned earlier, we're gonna see the current real time inflation, that smaller number at the bottom. Whereas, at the top here is gonna be our desired set pressure. So let's go ahead and let that build now. And there we go. Now we're up to pressure. We heard our air compressor kick off. So the first step of our installation, we need to find a place to mount our main unit here, which is what houses manifold and our compressor. So we need to find a place to mount this. Now the orientation doesn't matter, for the exception of this logo cannot face down. So we can't have it mounted like this, but it doesn't matter if it's mounted outside the vehicle. So we've looked over our truck here a little bit. We found that the best place to mount our little contained unit here is gonna be on the passenger side here, just directly below our rear passenger door. So you can see here we have a nice open spot on the frame that we should be able to mount our unit right up in there. But before we do that, we're gonna have a wiring harness on top of the frame here. There's gonna be one little connector here. We'll take a trim panel tool, and we'll just pry that up. Cause it may or may not get in the way when we go to mount our unit here. So in our kit, we get a couple different options for hardware, depending on how we're gonna mount it. There's some self-tapping screws. There's some nuts and some bolts. And then we have a U-bolt, which is what you see here. And this is what we're gonna be using for this particular application, because all we need to do is just simply come behind the frame rail here, come out to the top, and then turn it to align it like so. Now, we can go ahead and take our main unit here. And we see we're gonna have some holes on the top and bottom here. We're gonna go ahead and line those up with our U-bolt. I'm gonna use one hand to set it up into place and the other one to hold the U-bolt in the rear. And once that's on there, gonna try to hold it as best I can with one hand. We're gonna come back with a flat washer and then our lock nut. We'll go ahead and repeat the same combo of hardware here at the top. Take our 14 millimeter socket and secure it to the frame. Now keep in mind, we do want to alternate back and forth when tightening. So we have about the same amount of threads protruding through our lock nut on both the top and bottom. So just gonna go ahead, see if we can wiggle it, which we can't. So now we know it's secure against the frame. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna grab the air filter, which goes to our air compressor. We're gonna take this silver barbed fitting here, take it out of the package, and then we're gonna thread this onto the back of our air filter. So there's gonna be another one of these fittings on the top of our air compressor here. And basically what we need to do is we need to take the airline that comes with our kit. Keep in mind that there's two different kinds of airline. There's a harder one. And then we have a softer one here, which you can definitely tell just by squeezing it. It's gonna be softer. And this is gonna need to be used for our air filter installation. So as I said, we're gonna have another barb fitting on the top of our compressor. We're gonna take one end of our hose, attach it to here. And then the other end is gonna attach to the top of our compressor. But before we do that, we need to find a suitable mounting place for a filter that's gonna be free of dirt and debris. We're not gonna have to worry about too much water getting kicked up into it. So let's go ahead and do that now. So once we have our filter secure, we can go ahead and take our more pliable airline tubing, and we can go ahead and stick one in onto our filter. Once we have it attached to our filter, we're gonna take the other part of our line here. We're gonna route it over to where our air compressor is, and then we're gonna cut some of the slack off. Now we can go ahead and make our other connection here to the top of the compressor. So now we have a little bit more slack than we really need. So what we're gonna do is we're just gonna take a zip tie here and attach it to an existing wiring harness. So we don't have to worry about it falling down. And that should be perfect. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna take the coiled airline tubing that we get with our kit, and we're gonna cut that in half because we're gonna run one half from the manifold to the airbag on the driver's side and the other half from the manifold to the airbag on the passenger's side. Now it does matter which slot goes into manifold here. We have number one slot. That's gonna go to the driver's side. We have number two slot. That's gonna go to the passenger's side. So we want to make sure that we have a nice and straight cut. But once we have that, we can go ahead and insert it into the push-to-connect fitting on our manifold. We'll simply push it in till you hear it click and then pull it out. Now we can go ahead and route this line here to the driver's side airbags, since we're in the number one port on our manifold. So now we've got our airline routed here from the manifold. We came up, and behind this body mount here, we actually have a zip tie here. It's kind of hard to see, but we have it loosely cause we're going to run another airline through it. But we're using this to secure it to our factory wiring harness. We have one here and then about six or seven inches up. And the reason this is important is, is because we have our factory exhaust right here. So we want to make sure the airline tubing stays above the frame and it doesn't lay over here on our exhaust because that will definitely melt the wire. Then, once we come up here, we have another zip tie here. Again, just securing it to a factory wiring harness. Then, we actually came up and over the bend here. It's kind of hard to see. But if we look up in here above the gas tank, we're going to see part of the factory wiring harness here. We went ahead and attached another zip tie to our airline tubing. Then, we came out the back here, right where our airbag is. You can see up top here, we have another zip tie securing it to the brake hose here or the brake line. And now we just have it ran down here, like so. So now, we'll go ahead and cut our airline and attach it to our air bag. We'll pull it out to lock it in place. So if you'll notice in your kit here, we're gonna have two of these T push-to-connect connectors. And basically what these four are, it's an optional install. If you want to, if you want to add manual inflation valves to your system. Therefore if the compressor dies, you would still have a way to inflate your airbags. Now, essentially how these work are, what we'd is we would just splice in to one of our airlines here. It doesn't matter what point. You can do it right here since it's nice and accessible. But we'd splice it in, cut the airline, attach one to the top one to the bottom, and then we'd have this other port here. And this would go to a piece of airline tubing. I went ahead and cut a small piece here just to show you. And this would allow us to mount our manual inflation valves, which are gonna come with the actual airbags. So we can mount it there on there, like so. And then we could go ahead and secure it to someplace on the vehicle that would be easily accessible. Now, if you wanted to, you could put the inflation valves and just zip tie it up here to where they are still accessible, but maybe not be the easiest place to reach, or you could run the airline tubing back to the rear bumper and have your inflation valves there. It all really just depends on preference, but we won't be installing these for this installation. So the next thing we're gonna do is we're gonna run power to our compressor. Now, in order to do that, we need to grab our wiring harness here that comes in the kit. We're gonna grab the end with our square connector. It's gonna be four pins here. It's gonna match up perfectly with the connector here on our manifold. So we'll go ahead and plug that in now. We should hear an audible clicked when it's locked into place. And once that's done, we can go ahead and press this white tab up to lock it in place. Now, we're gonna go ahead and route our wires to the engine bay and to our battery. But before we do that, we're gonna have two connections that we need to make here. We can see a black and a red wire that come with our kit here, come with our harness that are attached to it. These are actually gonna be connected to the black and red wires coming from our compressor. So what we need to do is we need to go ahead and cut off both of these connectors here and hardwire them to the wires on our harness, using the included butt connectors. We'll show you what that looks like. We'll strip off about a quarter, quarter inch of the jacket, place one end into the butt connector. And then, we'll crimp that on. Now let's take the other end here and attach it to the red wire coming from our compressor. We'll crimp that on next. And then we'll go ahead and repeat the same process here for the black wire. Go ahead and give that a nice little tug. We do want to come back with a heat gun and go ahead and seal up these connectors next. So we went ahead and taped up our wires to some of our existing wiring here, just to make it look a little nicer. But now we can go ahead and route the bulk of our wiring harness up into the engine bay. And we're gonna do it to the frame rail here. And we're gonna make sure we tie it to some existing wiring harnesses. So you don't have to make sure it's dropping down, causing any issues, dragging the ground, anything like that. But there is an important note I need to make up here near the connector, is that we want to make sure that the wires leading from the connector aren't quite like this, because if we get any water on these wires here, they're gonna run down through there. They can get in there and corrode the contacts. So what the manufacturer recommends is that we have a little bit of a loop down here to allow the water to run off, about just like that. Now we need to go ahead and attach our power wire to the positive battery terminal. Now, in order to get this cover off, we're gonna have a bolt here which connects it to the firewall. That'll allow us to pivot this out of the way, and then we can sort of pry our cover up. And that's gonna reveal the positive post the positive terminal on our battery here. So what we need to do now is before we just attach our wire directly to the positive terminal, we need to go ahead and install the in-line fuse that comes with our kit. So we're gonna go ahead and cut this wire here. Gonna go ahead and strip some of the jacket off and then we can attach a butt connector. And once that's on there secure, we're gonna take our fuse holder here and we're gonna cut this in half, cut the loop in half here, and on one side, we're gonna strip some jacket back, attach it to that butt connector. On the other side, we are gonna attach a ring terminal. Let's go ahead and attach that ring terminal first. Now, before we go ahead and connect it to the positive battery terminal, we're gonna go ahead and make sure our fuse isn't inserted, cause we don't want to insert it now for this step. And similar to what we did before is, we're gonna go ahead and take a 10 millimeter socket to remove the nut on the top of our positive battery terminal. So we don't want to remove that nut completely. So again, we're gonna go ahead and snip the ring terminal here so we can slide it around that bolt. So the final wire we have here is gonna be the pink wire, which is for our ignition circuit. This needs to be attached to a keyed ignition source. However, we actually don't have to run it for our air compressor to work, but we are gonna hook it up and show you guys how that's done. If you're not gonna be using it, we can just go ahead and cut it off here and tape the wire up. But in order to access this keyed ignition circuit, we need to get over to the driver's side cause that's where our fuse box is. So let's go ahead and route our wire over there now. So in order to get our ignition wire from the passenger's side, over to the driver's side where our fuse box is, we had to go ahead and remove this little panel here. However, it's super simple to remove. There's just going to be several push pin fasteners here at various points holding it down. And you can see we have the pink wire ran. We have it zip tied to some existing wires. You gotta be careful here with the hood latch here. You don't want to get that caught up in that. So we want to go ahead and secure it to the hood latch release cable. And then we just have it left off here in the inside of the fender well. So now that we have our ignition wire ran over here to the driver's side to our fuse box, we need to find a circuit rated for 10 amps or less that is keyed, meaning it only turns on with our ignition. Now, we went ahead and did some testing here for you. And we found the perfect circuit takes a 10 amp fuse, and it's gonna be located in the slot number 86. So to give you a better view of where the fuse is located here, it's gonna be directly beside this 10 amp here. So we're gonna go ahead. We already have the fuse removed, but we're gonna go ahead. Next we can go ahead and attach our ignition wire to this circuit. In order to do this, we're gonna be using a fuse splice. We'll show you that now. So this is what our fuse splice is going to look like. If you don't have one, it doesn't come with the kit. So you're gonna need to pick that up here through etrailer. And basically how this works is, these two silver prongs here, they're gonna install into the factory terminal that we're gonna remove the fuse from. And then we're gonna have two fuse slots on top. One of them is gonna be for the factory 10 amp fuse that we removed from there. And the other one is gonna be for the fuse for that circuit, which we're gonna need to get one of those as well. We're gonna be using a 10 amp. Then, we can go ahead and plug in the fuse splice. Now the only thing left to do is attach our pink wire to the red wire coming from the fuse splice. So now that we have our two wires connected here, we can go ahead and plug in our fuse splice. We're gonna secure our wire here up against the fender. Then we can re-install our fuse box cover. Now keep in mind, you may or may not need to extend the pink wire to reach over here to the driver's side fuse box. You might want to go ahead and pick up some extra wire, or you may have some leftover from the harness that we cut off earlier. Now the final step, just to go ahead and install our fuse. So now that we have our fuse installed, we can go ahead and test our system out. We're gonna take our remote along with our battery and insert it into here. Now we're gonna go ahead and turn on the remote. So if we do have a leak, here's actually what it's going to look like. So you can see here, we have some bubbles forming and they're gonna be coming from the push-to-connect fitting that we have our airline inserted into. So we're gonna go ahead and deflate the system. We'll recut that line and test it again. And that'll do it today for our look at installation of the air lift wireless air compressor system here for our 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 3500..


Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
Kathleen M
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Ryan G
Test Fit:
Ryan G

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