Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System Review - 2011 Chevrolet Silverado

content loading



Customers compare al25870 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



Review of the Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System on a 2011 Chevrolet Silverado


Today on our 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500, we'll be installing the Air Lift Wireless One Compressor System for Air Helper Springs, part number AL25870. This is the hand held wireless remote system. It allows you to adjust your air springs from inside or outside your cab with the hand held controller. Now with our wireless remote, whether we're inside the cab or outside the vehicle, we can turn it on and adjust the air pressure as necessary. Pressing the single dot button turns on display on and then we can increase or decrease pressure with the up and down arrow and then it will automatically air up to the desired pressure. Inside our wireless remote is also three memory settings. Once you select that desired setting, it will automatically switch to it.

To get into the settings function, we'll hold the up and down arrows for five seconds. An SE will display for our settings and then we can scroll through the menu selections. To begin our install, we need to mount our compressor. The compressor will mount with the provided self tamping screws. You can possibly mount it in the cab, engine compartment or we're going to mount it here on the inside of the frame rail. To mount it on the inside of the frame rail, we'll take the four self tamping screws and secure it directly to the frame.

Now that we have two fasteners holding our air compressor solidly in place, we're going to go ahead and take the black wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and add it to the attachment point here on the other side. This will be our ring terminal and ground for the compressor. Now with our ring terminal and third fastener secured, we'll move to our fourth fastener, which is going to be the hold down, not only for the compressor, but for our relay also. We'll slide the attachment point underneath the compressor and then use our self tamper to secure them both. Just like that, we've now got our compressor and relay mounted with our ground secured. Next, we'll need to mount and secure the air manifold. The air manifold has pre-drilled holes on both the side and the bottom to attach a bracket, so that we can secure it to the frame.

Now the preferred method for mounting is to have our electrical connector facing up. To keep our manifold facing up in the preferred method, we'll take the bracket, mount it to the bottom of the manifold using the bolts provided that go into the pre-threaded holes in the bottom of the manifold. Once I have them both in place, I'll go ahead and tighten them down. Then we'll take the self tamping screws provided with the install kit and secure the manifold to the frame. Choosing a mounting location for your manifold, not only do you want the electrical connector facing up in the preferred method, but we want to keep the air line higher than the outlet of the compressor. Again, we're going to attach it to the frame and we need to make sure that we're within 24 inches of the compressor relay so that we can make our electrical connection.

Any further distance and we'd have to add some wiring. We'll stay just below the fuel line here. Now with our manifold securely mounted, we can take the wiring harness connector, and notice it has a red locking tab on it, and plug into the top of our manifold. Once we click it in place on the connector, we'll push the red locking tab in place, locking our connector in position. Next we'll need to take the red power wire with the white stripe from our harness and connect it to the red power wire coming from the compressor. Now provided with our install kit, a blue butt connector that is also heat shrinkable to seal up around the wires, preventing dirt, dust, debris or moisture from getting to our connection point. Now we will be cutting off the terminal, but since we're using a butt splice connector, we're still able to connect the two wires together. I'm going to cut off a little of the excess wire here than we won't need, since our manifold is mounted a little closer than the full 24 inches. Now with the excess trimmed off and both sides stripped back, we'll take our butt connector, crimp it here on the harness and then on our power wire pigtail. Now to heat up the heat shrink portion of our butt connector, it's recommended to use a heat gun or if you have a real hot hair dryer, small butane torch or even a lighter will work. You just want to be careful not to burn the insulation outside of the butt connector. As you heat up the butt connector, you'll see it shrink and seal up around the wire. Now before I secure any of my wiring back here, I'm going to start running the wiring harness into position. The remaining two wires is our red power wire and the black wire for ground. Now once I have that run into position, I'm going to go ahead and use some zip ties that are provided with our install kit, along with some black electrical tape to help bundle up the wires and secure them. Now ultimately, our harness is going to run into our engine compartment, so as we run down the frame rail, we'll just us the zip ties provided to secure our wiring. Now to assist in routing up through the engine compartment, I'm going to use a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire or in this case, I'm just using a piece of air tubing. Keep in mind when running your wiring or air lines, we want to stay away from any moving components, such as steering and suspension, or excessive heat, such as exhaust. Now that I've got the wiring harness routed here to the top of the engine, run the wiring harness around the fuse box and then we're going to set it aside. The power wire is going to get routed here, into the fuse box. We'll go ahead and remove the lid and set it aside. We need to locate a fuse that is hot only when the ignition switch is on. That way our compressor doesn't run at all times should it develop a leak or something of that nature. Here we have the trailer tow package fuse. Using our test light, we can verify that it's only hot with the ignition on. To do that, put my ground clamp on the negative battery post and I currently have my ignition off. I test both sides of the fuse and then turn the ignition on and test again and you can see we have battery power. I'll go ahead and turn the ignition back off and pull the fuse. Now to install the fuse tap provided, it will slide onto the leg of our fuse. We'll simply feed our fuse through the hole in the bottom of the fuse tap, squeeze it into place snapping it around the fuse. We can then go ahead and reinstall the fuse into the fuse box. It may be a little tight, so you might want to use a pair of pliers to help out. Now once our fuse is in place, that sets our fuse tap. Next, I'm going to take the wiring harness, route it into position or where it's going to get ultimately get secured, to make sure I've got plenty of length. Now I also need to make sure I got plenty of length to take the black wire here to the negative battery post. You'll see on the negative battery post, there's a open terminal where we can add an 8 millimeter nut and install a ring terminal onto the black wire and secure it directly to the battery. I'm going to go ahead and cut off the excess wire here, get that out of our way. Before we put the wire directly onto the fuse tap, we're going to install an inline fuse holder. The inline fuse holder will provide the fuse for our compressor circuit. We're simply picking up battery power off of the fuse box. Now to make our connection with our power wire, we'll go ahead and strip back the sheathing on the power wire and both sides of our fuse holder as we can prepare to install it. Now once we have both ends of the fuse holder stripped back, on one end we're going to put a spade terminal that will go to the fuse tap inside our fuse box. The other side will get a butt connector and this is a heat shrinkable butt connector, just like we used on the wiring harness down at the compressor. Fuse holder on one side and our power wire on the other. Now once we have that connection made, I'm going to go ahead and heat up the heat shrink around the butt connector to seal up around the wire. Next we can go ahead and install the spade terminal onto the fuse tap. Now I like to get a nice tight fit so I'm going to squeeze the spade terminal closed just a little bit. Now with our fuse holder onto the fuse tap, I'm going to bend it over so it fits nicely in the fuse box. Now with my fuse tap done, I'm going to go ahead and remove the tape here holding our black ground wire, route it over to the negative battery terminal, trim off some excess, strip it back and add a ring terminal. Once we put our ring terminal onto that open stud, I'm just going to add an 8 millimeter nut. Now with everything installed, I'll go ahead and secure my wiring as necessary and reinstall the fuse box cover. To secure the wiring, we'll just use the zip ties provided with the install kit. Next, we're going to move back underneath the vehicle, as we need to start installing our air lines. We're going to run an air line here from the barbed fitting on the compressor to the C port, which is identified right next to the silver fitting that goes into our manifold. I'm going to start here at the barbed fitting and to get our air line, which is supplied with the install kit up over the barbed fitting. To make it a little easier, we're going to soak it in some hot water. By soaking it for three to five minutes, it helps soften up the line a little bit and fit easier over the barbed fitting. Now once we've soaked the line, we'll go ahead and pull it out and work it onto the barbed fitting. Now once we get it worked onto the barbed fitting, we'll route it over to the manifold. I'm going to take it up and over the cross member here. This will allow me to secure it to the top of the frame. I'm going to figure out my length, then we'll use our Air Lift Air Line Tubing Cutter, part number AL10530, so we get a clean square cut on the air line. Route into position, line it up with the C fitting, which again is marked here on the side of the manifold. Firmly press it into place and pull out to lock it in position. Then I'll use the zip ties provided with the install kit to secure the air line. Now with the air line running from our compressor to the manifold, we need to run from the manifold back to the airbag lines that we're previously installed. We've got the end that we cut off, it's got a clean, square cut on it, press it firmly into the manifold fitting, pulling out to lock it in place. Now as I route back, I'll also go ahead and use zip ties provided to secure my air lines. Now once we have our air line run here to the back, I'm going to use my tubing cutter again to cut it to length and then we're going to cut the already previously installed air line so we can put our T in place, then our air line from the manifold into the T. Same style fittings, where we'll firmly push them on into place, pull them back to lock in and then I can use my zip tie to secure the air line. You'll notice I left a little bit of air line length and that's so that we have plenty of room for movement of the axle. Now once I've got it zip tied, I'll cut off the excess to clean up the install look of all my zip ties. Now with everything installed and secured, we'll go ahead and test the new compressor by turning on the ignition switch and it will supply air to the airbags, bringing it up to the minimum pressure set by the manufacturer. Then using the remote, we can increase pressure to test our airbag system, so now we'll go ahead and increase pressure to 60 PSI and test for leaks. To check for leaks, we're going to use a soap and water solution and spray each one of our air line connection points. After we go ahead and check for leaks, and verify we don't have any, we're ready to hit the road. There you have it for the install of the Air Lift Wireless One Compressor System for the Air Helper Springs, part number AL25870 on our 2011 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Randy B
Test Fit:
Jared G
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
David F
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Dustin K
Video by:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Video by:
Michael B
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video Edited:
Zach D
Installed by:
Cole B
Installed by:
Brent H

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.