Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System Installation - 2012 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty

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How to Install the Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System on a 2012 Ford F-250 and F-350 Super Duty


Speaker 1: Today in our 2012 Ford F250 Super Duty, we're gonna be taking a look at showing you how to install the airlift wireless air compressor system for air helper springs, part number AL72000.So with our compressor installed, this is gonna be your control unit, which you'll keep inside the vehicle. Now in order for your compressor to work, it's set up to work with a key in the on position. The truck or vehicle doesn't have to be running, but it has to be in the on position.Now we can see, we have 5 PSI on each bag, showing that we have our back tires, our back wheels hooked up. So if we press the up arrow, it's set to inflate to 15 pounds or 15 pounds per square inch. Click that, and then you press the down arrow, you can deflate it. And it'll deflate and it'll stop at 5 PSI.

It'll actually purge itself.And what's also great about this, that using these arrow, you can actually choose the left or the right bag to air up or pull that air out of, depending on what load you have. You have an all center load, you want more air in one side, you can pick that bag and air that bag up.What's great about this system is it's wireless. So installing the compressor is simple.First thing we need to do is we need to find a place to mount our compressor and our manifold. Now you want to mount it somewhere that we're gonna stay away from debris, and a lot of moisture or- we don't want to soak this. So, any fine debris or anything like that.

So inside the frame rail is gonna be about the best place.This is our driver's side, now if you look at these lines here, we have plenty of space. We can- we're gonna move this, but we'll be able to mount this just like that, and then for our manifold, there's a racquet that actually comes in your kit, it's gonna look like this, and we can actually mount right on top of the frame, and then this will actually mount right to it.These, the compressor and the manifold have to be within two feet of each other, so that's why we're mounting these so close. I'm removing this line here, or this- you can see this fastener, we'll just use a flathead screwdriver. If you have inaudible 00:02:36, it works well too.Bring it up like this, to give us more room to work. Go ahead and take a small drill bit and what I'm trying to do is just trying to scratch the surface of the frame, so I know where to drill the hole.I'm gonna use a 7 60 force drill bit.

I'll take one of our long self tapping screws, and then we'll do that same thing with the three remaining holes.Next, we're gonna mount our bracket to the top of our frame for our manifold. We're gonna use a 3 16th drill bit to draw out our holes. Once you have your holes drilled, then we're gonna open them up to a quarter inch with a quarter inch drill bit. We're gonna have some larger self tapping screws that are gonna go in here.So you're gonna get two small screws in your kit, and they're gonna either mount here or here. And the way we have this mounted, they're actually gonna mount in the back here.

And you're gonna need a 5/16ths wrench to put these in. So we're gonna mount around the front side of this bracket here. Then we'll take our 5/16th wrench and we'll tighten the inaudible 00:04:13.And then what we want is we want this cylinder straight up and down, we want it vertical. You don't want it turned you don't want it leaning sideways, because it's gonna drip water out of here. So we want it straight up and down, and this box here for your manifold, again, either has to be mounted like this or from the top side in where this is facing up.Now we're gonna take our wiring that comes with our kit. Our plug, so we're gonna plug into our manifold like that. Once you get it plugged in, take that red tab, you're gonna push it. That's gonna lock it into place.We're gonna take this box here, and really you can take this and you can mount it on the bottom of the quarter of one of the feet of your compressor. What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna grab these just like this together, and you're gonna need an extra self tapping screw for this. I'm gonna mount them right there. Just like that.Next, we're gonna add the female spade connector. We're gonna cut that off, and we're gonna take- and then this is the red wire coming from our compressor, go ahead, just strip it back. And then your red and white wire that's in your wiring harness, you wanna strip back the coding on that. Then we're gonna take the included heat shrink butt connector, and we're gonna connect those two together.And you're gonna take a heat source. I'm gonna take my extra lines, I'm gonna zip tie them right to this existing wiring and stuff here.So you can see, I ran my wire right behind this bracket right along the frame, here, to right here. No we're gonna take this and go up to our battery. And what I did is I took an airline tube and ran it down. You need something stiff. Your kit is gonna come with an airline tube, just make sure if you use it, you're not pinching it anywhere that it's gonna be used to run air through. If you do that, take a piece of tape, roll it over the end just to cover the hole so you don't get anything stuck in there.So what I did for my battery, I ran it down. Then went to the outside of my frame, there's a large hole here. 'Cause if you look up, we have your steering arm that comes through, and that turns. So we don't want our wires to get close to that. So now I'm gonna take my red wire, put it inside my airline tube like this, and then my black wire, I'm just gonna tape it right on the side. Use electrical tape works.Then we'll pull our airline tube up. Yep. And we're gonna have a couple things we're gonna need to do up here. One thing we need to do is we need to separate our black and our red wire. So now that I've separated my red and my black wire, the red wire I'm gonna leave over here because it's gonna be connected to a fuse inaudible 00:07:47, and my black wire, I'm gonna wrap it around and I'm gonna connect it onto my negative side of a battery, or the ground side of my battery.Then we'll cut this off and add our ring terminal. Strip it back. An 8 millimeter socket, and remove this nut here. I'm gonna throw a couple zip ties on here to hold this up. And what we want is we want fuse number 33, which is our ignition. And it's gonna be, so if you took this, it sits in like this, and when you pull it out, you turn it like this, it shows exactly how all of them lay.So we're looking for this one here. It's gonna be this first 15 amp fuse right here. That's gonna be number 33. Go ahead and pull that fuse out.Next we need to take our fuse holder, comes in our kit, and we go ahead and strip back both ends. Just like that. On one end, we're gonna add the ring terminal. Now I'm adding a small blue one. There's another one that's a little bit larger that comes in your kit. However, we're tabbing into a mini fuse, which is gonna be connected with that little thing, so that end is what's gonna go in here, so we wanna make sure that's tight together.So I'm gonna be using the small blue one for this. Go ahead and strip that on that end. On the other end, we're gonna add our heat shrink butt connector that comes in our kit. Then we're gonna take our red wire and measure it out. I'm gonna cut it like that. I'm gonna strip this end, we're gonna add the other end with our butt connector like that, clamp it down.We'll take our heat gun, go ahead and shrink that butt connector. I'm gonna take my fuse that I removed, and we're gonna slide it in just like that. And then we'll go ahead and put this back in the slot. We're gonna take this end, it's gonna go right on top. Then we can insert our 15 amp fuse that comes in our kit into our fuse holder.What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take this just like that, and zip tie it right there. Once you have that done, you can reinstall your cover. Just make sure you don't push your cover down real hard, 'cause you do have that connector coming up a little bit. And then we'll connect our ground side, or the negative side of our battery.Now we wanna connect our airline. You're gonna have a port one and port two on your manifold. Port one's gonna go to the left side, port two's gonna go to the right side. I suggest doing these one at a time so that you don't get them mixed up.So we'll run- you wanna make sure when you make this connection, that this in this flat when you push it up in there, make sure it's not pinched or kinked. Push it up in there, pull on it just a little bit. Then we're gonna wrap this, and we're gonna go right up over top here. And what we don't want- we don't want to kink this down here.Now with my line coming out of the number one location on manifold, what I did is I went up on top of my frame, right on top here, right through my bracket for my air bag. Just followed the lines back here, and then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna put a the connector here, and then I'm gonna connect this to one into that the connector.And you wanna make sure that when you cut these, you use tube cutters. Don't use a utility knife, don't use pliers, 'cause if you do not have a good flat surface and it pinches it or kinks it, you will have leaks. Go ahead and put in our t connector in one side there. And then our other side.Then we're gonna cut this to size. If you don't have a tube cutter, you can find one on our website. Make sure you push it in there good. That's what our driver's side looks like. Now we're gonna route the passenger side.What I did with number two, is I ran it this way, all the lines over, and then I just brought it back right across to the passenger side.So now, we're gonna need a little bit of extra line. We're gonna take this little valve, and it's gonna connect right on the end of this hose. Kinda tight down there. That's not what we wanna do, is this hose that's coming out of our compressor, we have a little cap on the end, we're gonna remove that cap, we're gonna slide this onto our hose. We wanna try and get that overtop of that lift.I'm gonna take and run it up like this and around. You want to hook right into that spot right there. Again, make sure at the end of your line is not kinked or bent. Just like that. We'll take a zip tie, and zip tie it right up like this. Cut off the excess on this side here. Clean it up.Next, we need you to take this little valve, we're gonna take this little red cap off here. That's just a piece of rubber. We're gonna thread this in here. I will advise you, when you tighten this down, take a 9/16ths wrench, hold this in when you tighten this. 'Cause if you don't, you're gonna break this off. If you break that off inside of there, then you have to get a whole new compressor.Next, you're gonna have a little valve like this, or a little copper end, and then your filter, air filter. We're gonna thread them two together like this, and then we're gonna take our line, one end's gonna go in here and one end's gonna go there. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna feed this right behind this bracket here. Go ahead, check the ends, make sure that's good. Put that in there, then I'm gonna cut this off and I'm gonna put my filter right here. Inside of that, just like that. And that will hang free.Now we're ready to test it out, make sure everything is working correctly. And that'll do it for a look at and installation on the air lift wireless air compressor system for air helper screens, part number AL72000 on our 2012 Ford F250 Super Duty.


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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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