Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System Installation - 2016 Ram 2500

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How to Install the Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System on a 2016 Ram 2500

Today on our 2016 Ram 2500, we're going to be showing you how to install the Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System for Air Helper Springs. Part number is AL72000. Now, our 1 button and the 2 button here, this is going to allow us to have presets, so if we have trailers that we typically carry we want them to be set at a certain amount. You see we've got that one set to 45. You just hit the button, it's going to bring the bags down to 45 pounds. First one is set at 28. Maybe you've got a different trailer.

You just hit those buttons for a quick adjust, and then we can go through our other buttons here to adjust individually, side to side. Also, for the rough figure, which will allow us to go up or down 10. We can go up 10 psi or down psi without having to hit these buttons 10 times individually. To change your preset, you just want to go to whatever psi it is you want to be at. Say you want to be at 28 pounds, and we'll just hold that down. You can see it's going to give us an SER set.

Now, 1's going to be 28 pounds. If we wanted to set that just like the other one, you're just going to hold that down. Now, you can't really see it outside of the vehicle, but our cluster there is backlit. Even in a low light situation, we'll be able to see. It's got a mellow green color.

I think that's nice, so it's not too overbearing. The clip will allow us to easily attach that, just like a garage door opener. Maybe a little bit bigger than a standard garage door opener, but it's there. It's easy to get to. We can instantly adjust our settings any time we need to. Now, this is what our kit's going to look like when we spread it out.

The main components of the system, of course, are going to be our compressor. As you can see, it's nice quality. We've got the grommets here with the inserts to help reduce any vibration actually transferring into the vehicle. The thing I like about the kit, it all comes pre-wired. You can see we've got our fittings. Now, we might switch some of these out for heat shrink connectors or whatever we want to do to ensure that we don't have any issues a long way down the road. The kit that they provide is going to get you going and will get your compressor running. You can see, here's a relay kit. This part plugs into our manifold. This allows us to turn the compressor on and off without running all of the power through a switch. We use just a little bit of power from an ignition source here. That's going to power our relay, and then allow power to transfer through, so we're not drawing all that through our system. This is going to be our control box for it. this is going to allow us some presets, so we can preset in there a few different psi's that we want. Then, this is going to allow individual adjustability as well, so it's really nice there. This is our manifold. We've got our relays that are going to plug in here. We've got an air in. We've got a vent here. This is going to convert, what we've got here is just a standard single path compressor. This is going to allow us to run 2 separate airbags, so it still gives us that side to side adjustability, which I really prefer. You're always going to have an off-center load a little bit one way or another, so it's nice to be able to adjust those independently. Of course, we've got the air line tubing that we'll need to make our connections. We've got our instruction kit. We're going to have our hardware and everything that we'll need to install or at least help us install. Some zip ties. I tend to run out of these zip ties, so it's a good idea to have some of those on hand if you need a few extra. Now, when it comes to attaching our manifold to the frame, they're going to provide a bracket here for us. You can see we've got holes on the back side and holes on the front side. The ideal mounting situation would be for this to be mounted up against the frame. We'll get it up as high as we can. We want the arrow on our vent to face in, and we'd like that to be up and down with our plug on the top. Now, if you can't get it in that configuration, you can adjust this slightly, but this is going to be ideal. I think it is something that you can accomplish underneath the vehicle. Now, to attach our bracket, just want to use the two small bolts that are provided. You'll need an 8mm wrench or socket to tighten these down. All right, that'll be ready to mount. To mount that under the frame, we're going to use the 2 large self tapping screws that we've got there. Our compressor is going to mount with the smaller self tapping screws. If you have an open channel frame, you can use the bolts, but in this application we're dealing with a box frame, so we'll be using these self tappers. Now, I like the area that's located between the fuel tank and the DEF tank that we've got here. It's a protected little cubby area. Of course, we need to watch our brake lines. We need to watch the fuel lines that are up here. This should give us a nice area to mount. The compressor I'm going to put up here a little bit further forward, and then when it comes to the manifold, I'm going to mount that back here just a little bit. Just so it will clear my brake lines that I have up there. I know we need to go there. I'm going to mount the relay right to this outside screw or this forward screw on our manifold here. Let's go ahead and start by getting it mounted, and then we'll move on to getting our compressor mounted. now, the way all of our wiring is ran in our relay, you can see they've got it taped up a little bit. From the plug that goes in to the manifold down and from the relay down, I'm going to go ahead and get that taped off. I'm not so worried about just the red and the black wire that we're going to be running up to the battery, or the fuse box anyway. You know it would be nice to clean up the look of this. Keep our wires protected. That's what it will look like when you get done. Just going to clean up the look a little bit. We have so many different colors running underneath there. Let's go ahead and get our manifold installed, and remember we're going to mount our relay in that forward attachment point as well. Just going to use the screw to mark the location there, and then being careful of my lines up above. We'll use the self tapper to actually pre-drill the hole. All right. Once we've got that one where we want it, we'll mark the other one. I'm going to slide my relay right in behind there with those holes lined up we'll put our forward screw in. Then, just snug them down. I'm going to take care of this one just like the other one. When we get it in a good position there, I'm going to mark and start my holes one at a time here. That way we get it right in the exact position we want it. Run that in, you'll notice I put one of the black washers on from the black bolts they have provided that you would mount your compressor with if it we're a C-channel frame. You want to back off that zip tie there. I'm going to bring my ground wire up, and I'll place it right behind that bolt head. I think that will be a good location, take out some of that slack. I'm going to run my power wire up behind the compressor just to keep any wires from hanging down. I'll zip tie those off right up here. Now, we want to leave enough slack in our wires, so they're not making contact with our compressor. Take that relay wire and run it up to that bigger wire loom at the top. It'll help take out some slack. Now, this is going to be running forward, so we can lay that up that way in a minute. We want to get our compressor power wire connected to that wire coming out of our relay. Bring that down just a little bit. Clip that off. Take that off there that way it gives us a little slack. Then, we'll grab our wire strippers, and we'll strip both sides of that back. We can use the provided heat shrink butt connector. We're going to use the one for 16 to 14G wire, so it will be the blue one. Now, we'll shrink that down. I'm just going to use a lighter. Of course, if you're using an open flame, you really want to avoid your fuel lines up there. You could also use a heat gun or a little mini torch. All right. There we go. Nice sealed up connection. That's going to get a superior moisture resistance there. I'm going to bring my plug back that goes right into the top of the manifold there. Hear it click, then there's a little lock and tab that you push down there on that edge. Let's get rid of that one. Just slip that around. Then, we'll get that zip tied right to that wire loom, and we'll run forward with that wire loom up towards the front whenever we need to get to our battery and the fuse block which is over on the driver side. Now, to run our wires the rest of the way up front, I've just attached a piece of airline tubing here. You could also use a coat hanger or stiffer piece of wire just to help us get over the nooks and crannies or get through the areas we want to get through. I'm going to go from where we headed there just behind that tank. Run up over the top there, and then draw our wires through. I'm going to use plenty of zip ties to keep everything nice and secure. Now, from this point, we're ready to head right up towards that front driver's side corner of the truck. The biggest thing you want to look for is the steering shift. That's right here. It's got that boot on it. Now, that's going to turn. We certainly don't want our wiring to be in that area, so we're going to go towards that outside fender well. We'll get an anchor location there, and then we can run up and along that fender toward that battery location where the fuse block also is. We just want to make sure as we pull that up, that we pull all of the slack out of our wire. Sometimes it'll twist and it won't come up, then we'll have a loop down here that might get hung on something. You want to really be careful with that. All right. Let's pull our slack up. Then, I'm going to come right over here to that really large wire loom that runs outside from the inside of the cab there. I think that'll be a great spot to anchor out. It'll be really nice, really sturdy. Once we get up to this point with our wiring, we're going to separate the power wire, the red wire, from the ground wire, which is the black wire. That ground is going to go right here underneath this battery stud. The red wire is going to come up to this fuse panel box. Trim off more than enough here. Then, we can use our knife here, and we're going to separate the electrical tape. You want to avoid cutting into the wire. Figure out the length we'll need for our ground wire there. Snip that off leaving a little bit extra, then we'll be able to strip that back. inaudible 00:13:01 the provided ring terminal. Then, just back that nut off the stud. If I can, I like to put this underneath, so I lift that one off. We'll kind of get that sandwiched between the two of them. That should give us a really nice, secure connection. Run it off that side so we can make it look a little nicer. Then, put that nut back in place, and then tighten it down. Now, there's a small channel that runs back behind these brackets and along this edge. If we can, we can carefully run our wire along there, and that will keep it tucked back out of the way a bit for us. Now, if we push these two tabs on the front side of the fuse box, we'll be able to open that up. What we're going to do is we're going to tap in to, you can use one of the two 25 amp fuses that are going to be right up in this area. One's for the heated steering wheel. One's for the heated seats. That's an emission only source. The fuse is 25 amps, so that's plenty large enough to cover the 15 amp fuse that we're going to be putting in. I'm going to use enough of the red wire to where I can get it into the fuse panel. Strip that back. We can grab that large yellow butt connector, make it slid on there, and crimp down. Also, grab our fuse holder. Strip back both sides of it. Since these are the smaller fuses, we're going to use the smaller female spade connector. Place that down on there and get it crimped in. The other side will go into the butt connector. Get it crimped down. Get that shrinked down. I'm going to pop that cover open. We want to pull one of the two fuses that we decided on. Now, we're going to take that small fuse tab since we are using the smaller size fuse. I'm going to bring our fuse right down, and it almost clicks in there in the bottom. Now, we can slide that right back where we got it. That will give us our connection point right there. Now, I'd like to have the whole fuse holder inside of here. Something like this. That way it's protected and out of the elements, so you can kind of route it in like that. You just want to keep it down below those relays, so the cover can close. In order to do that, we're going to have to notch out the side of the box just a little bit here to allow for that to go through. Your side cutters should work out fine for that. You have to do the inside and outside lip. Use a razor knife to just score it. Then, we should be able to flex it and bend it out of there. Let's check for fit there. Yeah. That looks good. Open and close no problem. Now, we want to take at least a 30" piece of air hose, and we're going to snip it off here. We're just using a tubing cutter. This is part number AL10530. That's going to give this really nice, clean, flush cut. It's very important for these. To seal crap with it, you do it that way. Now, that 30" piece of tubing we're going to connect into the input that runs through the filter into the manifold. You'll feel an initial click, and then you'll be able to push down just a little further, and you'll feel that second click. That's going to indicate that it's fully sealed in there and should be able to pull it out, coming out. Now, I'm just going to make a coil, and we're going to be connecting this one right here. That cap will come off. Place that around our air line tubing. Loop it. Push it in. It's going to go over that little nub that's on there. That little flare. Then, we'll get that secured down. Now, we're going to use a 12mm and a 17mm. 17 we'll just hold with here. The 12 will tighten it down with. We don't want to over tighten this. Just snug it down. We'll check for leak, and if we need to we'll tighten it up a little bit more later. That will just be if we need to. Just gather our coil there and zip tie it off. Now, we're going to come out the first side, number 1. That's going to go to the left side air bag on the driver's side. Number 2 is going to go to the right side air bag that's over on the passenger side. All right. I'm going to start by doing the driver side first, so I'm going to wrap this end back towards the air bag. The large body mount here, we can get over top of that. We can come out here and run along with these parking brake cables. We're going to go right over the top of that. Put a few zip ties in locations. Now, I've just about run out of the zip ties provided with the kit. It is a good idea to have extra zip ties on hand. Now, we're going to be teeing into the air bag right here behind the tire. This is where those air lines are going to run. Again, with our tubing cutter, come in, cut that off nice and flush, side our T fitting in just like that. Now, you can see those two holes there. We'll use a zip tie through those to secure our air line, and that should keep it up and out of the way in case anything just slung up by the tire. Now, on the bed support rod here, I'm going to take that up as high as I can get it, and then cinch down that zip tie. That way it will keep it running up above the frame well there until it joins in with our parking brake cable. All right. We've got to figure out what we need. We don't want it to have too much of a sharp bend to it that can cause leakage. Trim off the little excess. Bring it around. Plug it in side number 1. All right. Coming out of here, I'm going to run my air line up over these supports. You want to keep it up out of the way of the exhaust here. As you can see, we have an exhaust here, and above it's a heat shield, so we can kind of take advantage of that. I think with this we can run it right on the back side of this bed mount and use a zip tie up there to get it secured in place. Just like when you did your air bags. You just want to avoid any sharp edges or any significant sources of heat. Anything that might cause damage to the air line, any pinch points. I'm not going to tighten that down fully yet to give me some room to go back and forth if we need be. Do the same thing on our other one right here. Now, from that point I'm going to go right up behind, if you've got it the factory 5th wheel, mounting location on this back side. You've got the puck system, or whatever they call it. If now, then you'll just run up over that cross member, and then zip tie it out to these two holes with a long zip tie going through them. This one I'm going to do right around here. I'm going to keep that air line pulled down and away, so if they do install something there it won't offer any interference. Then, it's pretty tight around the top of that air bag, so you might not have a really good opportunity there for your T fitting. I don't think we will, so I'm going to go right up over top of that spring perch, and we'll connect back further where we've got the air line running down the frame. Bring it on back. Come right over top of the frame rail there. With that routed where we want it, I'm going to make my connection into the manifold first this time. I'm going to pull through all this slack. That's going to maximize the amount of air line tubing I've got leftover for my vent when we run that. Once the slacks pulled through, we'll tighten those zip ties and trim them off. Now, we can trim the line going to our air bag there. Get our T put in place. Now, we're going to pull the small cap out of the end of the compressor there. We can get rid of it. It's time to thread in our push to connect fitting. We want to thread this in, of course, until that thread sealant really engages fully into our compressor. It's not like it's going to be pressurized or anything, but we still want a good seal. Now, to get our air line ran up to where we want to go, I'm using extra tubing. This is part number F9151. It's going to be an 18 ft. extension. Then, we're just going to push that right in. You should be able to pull without it coming out. It kind of gives you two clicks. You'll have the first initial click, and then one a little bit harder. Now, I'm going to route this back kind of the same way I did with the air line going to the air bag, itself, but we're going to stop about halfway there and run it up along side of the bed. If you are using this as a replacement hose, what you can do is just push in on the hose that your push to connect fitting, push in on that ring, then you'll be able to slide that out. This is going to be a really good replacement just to have on hand, in case you are hauling and maybe one of your air lines blows out or something from the road comes up and knicks it. You'll have that in your box and very easily replace that section and fill them back up and get right back down the road. Now, I'm going to be zip tying my filter off way up here by the fuel filter area. We just want to make sure we've got enough air line for that. We'll trim it off here. Now, we can grab our filter. You can see it's got the little barbed fitting on there and that will slide in to the end. It's not a bad idea to either stick that in some hot water. Once we've got that heated up a little bit, that should slide in just fine. This isn't going to be pressurized, so as long as you get a little bit past that barb you should be fine. We come up there, we get our zip tie started. Place our filter in. Then, just cinch it down. We'll have a good source of fresh air to go into our compressor, and we won't have to worry about a bunch of moisture, dirt, or debris. All right. Let's pop that cover off. We'll place in our fuse. We'll test out the system. Now, to test out the system, we just want to turn the key in to the on position. Give it just a second, and we should hear the compressor starting to fill up the air bags. It's going to get it back to that minimum of 5psi. You see it's giving a readout currently. It shows both rear air bags are at 5psi. All right. Now, both our bags are set up to the 35psi. We'll go ahead spray them down, check them, and make sure it's not leaking. We could also watch these gauges to see if they started to slowly come down. In a slow leak situation, that might take awhile, so we'll just go spray them down and make sure everything is sealed up properly. What we're looking for are new bubbles to be forming or to be coming out. Not only are we going to spray the fittings that are up by that compressor and by that manifold, we also want to spray our T fittings where they engage our air lines. Now, with no leaks detected, that completes our installation of our Air Lift WirelessAIR Compressor System. Part number AL72000 on our 2016 Ram 2500.

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