Air Lift Ride Control Air Helper Springs Installation - 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup

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How to Install the Air Lift Ride Control Air Helper Springs on a 2006 Dodge Ram Pickup


Today on our 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 we'll be installing the Air Lift Load Controller II Compressor System for Air Helper Springs, part number AL25592. We'll be adding this to a previously installed air bag system, part number AL57295, the LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs. We'll go over operation of our new Air Lift Compressor system. To air up the system we're going to go ahead and turn on the ignition. Now, the pressure switch will automatically kick on the compressor to bring it up to the minimum pressure. Pushing the toggle switch in the UP position will trigger the compressor and increase the air pressure in the air bags.

Now, once we have it aired up where we need it, we can go ahead and tow or carry our load. To release the air from the system, bring it back down to the original right height, we'll simply press on the button here below the switch to let the air out. To begin our install, we're first going to go ahead and find a mounting location and secure the compressor. In this application there's no room under the hood, so we're going to mount it here on the frame between the transfer case and the front of the gas tank. To secure the compressor we're going to use the self-tapping screws provided with the install kit. Once we have the compressor mounted, we're going to move inside and start mounting our gauge unit.

Here's our single switch gauge. On the backside of the gauge we'll have 2 electrical connections and 1 air line. We're going to mount the gauge unit here in this pocket, so in order to do that we're going to have to make a hole large enough in the back of the pocket to allow for the air hose. To do that, I'm going to go ahead and set it in place, mark it, and then drill out a pilot hole. A pilot hole will allow us to determine how much will need to be drilled out to allow for our air line. Once I have my pilot hole drilled, I'm going to go ahead and enlarge it enough to get the air line and wiring through.

We're going to need to cut out a larger area for the 3-way fitting to fit through the pocket. To do that, I'm going to use a rotary tool to cut out this section. Now with our cut out made, you can see our gauge unit is going to sit real nicely. Next, we need to run the air line and wiring through the back of the dash and out to our gauge. The air line and wiring that we'll be using has been preformed by the manufacturer.

One side is going to have the pressure sensing switch. The other side will go to the back of the gauge. We'll have 2 wires and 1 air line. As we pulled the line through, we kinked the end of it so we're going to go ahead and trim off a little bit. To trim it, we're going to use the Air Lift Air Hose Cutter, part number AL10530, which will give us a clean, square cut on the line without crimping it. Next, we'll need to install the hose onto the fitting. Before we make the attempt, we're going to go ahead and soak the hose in some hot water, which will make it more pliable and easier to get all the way up on our fitting for a nice seal. We'll let the air line sit 3 to 5 minutes while we wait for the hot water to soften the line. Now with our air line softened, we'll go ahead and remove it from the hot water and install it to the back of our gauge unit. Then we'll take the 2 wire connectors that we fed through with our air line and plug into the back of the switch. Next, we'll need to run 2 wires for our gauge light. We'll use a red and black wire provided with the install kit following the same route of our air lines and wire harness for the switch. To assist in routing my wires through the console, I'm going to go ahead and use a piece of air tubing. Once we have access to it here underneath the dash, we can then feed our wires into the tubing where I'll attach it with some electrical tape and pull them into position. We'll strip back both wires. We'll go ahead and add the connectors provided with the install kit and crimp it down. Next, we can plug our wires into the back of the gauge light. We're going to identify black as the ground and red as the power, but it doesn't matter which terminal we'll use as it just completes closing the circuit in order to illuminate the light behind the gauge. Now, with all our wires and air line installed into the gauge, we'll go ahead and clean up our wires by securing them to the air line and mounting the gauge in position. Next, we're going go ahead and remove one of the dashboard panels here on the side of the dash so we can gain access to our headlight switch and ultimately the running light circuit for power to our gauge unit. Using a plastic pry bar, you could also use a flat bladed screwdriver, we're going to get behind the panel and pop it free. Once we have the panel back out of the way, we'll gain access to the manufacturer's wiring harness that runs to the headlight switch. Now that we have access to the wiring behind the headlight switch, we'll go ahead and ground our test light, pull the wiring to where we can gain access to them. We'll identify the orange wire with a black stripe as our running light circuit. We'll go ahead a separate that from the harness, then we need to route our red wire underneath the dash and up to the headlight switch wiring. Keep in mind when routing any of your wires or lines to make sure you stay away from moving components such as the brake pedal or steering shaft, or hot items such as exhaust. Once we figure out our wire length, we can go ahead and cut off the excess, and then to connect the 2 wires together we'll use the quick splice connector provided with the install kit. The quick splice connector will go over top of the manufacturer's wire and then we'll take our power wire, slide it into the connector, and crimp it down. Once we have it crimped down, we can close the clasp. Now with our connection made, we can go ahead and re-install the dash panel. Next, we're going to route our second air line and wiring harness up the fire wall, reutilizing the manufacturer's grommet. If there isn't a hole in it, you can simply use a utility knife or razor blade to cut a small slice and then feed your hose and wire harness through it. We'll move back inside to complete our routing and connections. To give us our best angle in installing the air line into the pressure switch, we're going to route it around the bracket here in the dash, back down where we gain access to it. We'll route the air line, wiring harness, and pressure switch into position, line up the pressure switch with the air line. Push it in firmly, pulling it out to lock it in place. We'll then take the wiring harness and install it into the pressure switch pigtail. Next, we'll take the ground wire from our gauge light. We'll route the ground wire over to the firewall and out through the grommet. Part of the wiring harness that was attached to the air line that I ran between our low pressure switch and our gauge end switch was the power wire. This power wire also has a fuse attached to it between here and the switch. It is just behind the console here on the driver's side. The power wire is going to need to get run to the fuse box. We'll have to add some length of wire to it and route it out and under the hood. We'll use the extra piece of wire that we cut off from the power wire from our gauge light along with a spade connector. We'll follow the ground wire that we ran previously for the gauge light out and into the engine compartment. Now that we've secured all our wiring inside the cab of the vehicle, we'll go ahead and move back underneath where we can take the air line that we routed up inside and ultimately to the low pressure switch and route it along the frame rail to our compressor. As I route it, I'll go ahead and secure it as necessary. Now that we've run back to the compressor, you can see that we've got some extra air line. To trim this air line off, we can simply cut the line and move the wiring harness back or bundle it up. To do that, we'll use our tubing cutter, cut the line. Now with the line cut we'll need to remove the T from the other end. To do that, we'll press on the collar of the T and pull the line out. I'll go ahead and make a new line to come out of the other side of our T to go to the compressor. Again, to remove it we'll pull back on the collar and remove the line. We can use the excess line that we just cut off as the second line coming out of the T to the compressor. I'll go ahead and remove the electrical tape holding the wire to the air line. Now, to figure out my length, I'll just go ahead and install the T on one side and then the new air line into the other. Measure it out and cut the length. Like we did previously, we'll go ahead and soak the line in some hot water to help soften the line and make it easier to install onto the fitting of our compressor. Once we let the line soak long enough, we'll go ahead and put it onto the barbed fitting. Now we can either take our wire and wrap it up and just zip tie off the excess after we connect it directly to the power wire for our compressor or what we're going to do is use the Deka Heat Shrink Butt Connector by cutting off the excess from the power wire coming from the low pressure switch and the power wire here from the compressor. We'll go ahead and take the length of wire. We can mark it and cut off the spade terminal and excess wire. Then we'll strip back both ends and add our butt connector. Now that we've got both sides stripped back, we'll go ahead and crimp them down. Using a heat gun, heat up the butt connectors so the heat shrink will seal up around the wire, creating a good sealed connection. Note, because this connection is exposed, if you dont use a heat shrink butt connector, we recommend to wrap it up with some black electrical tape to help keep it free from dirt, dust, debris, and moisture. Next, we'll take the ground wire and use a self-tapping screw and secure it directly to the frame. Now, with our ground wire secured, we'll need to take an air line and run it from our T back to the air bags where we'll install a T to secure the air line coming from the compressor to the air bag. We'll take our extra length of hose here, provided with the install kit, slide it into the T, pull back to lock it in place, and then we're going to route it down the frame rail back to the air bags that we're previously installed. Now, I've got our air line run here to the back. We'll locate the air line for the manual valve for the rear air bags. We're going to cut into the line. We'll use the T thats provided with the install kit and repeat the same process as we did earlier of installing the line into the T. Then we'll take our air line from the compressor, mark our length, cut off the excess, and install it into the third leg of our T. Back here in the engine compartment, we've got our ground wire for the gauge light and the power wire for the switch and compressor. I'm going to route the wires here along the firewall. To assist in routing the wires, I'm going to use a pull wire, which can be a stiff piece of wire or, in this case, a piece of air tubing. Get the pull wire routed where I want it, send my wire in it, and then pull it into place. For the ground wire, we can go right here to the manufacturer's ground. To do that, I'll go ahead and mark my length. Before you add your ring terminal though, recommend to remove the ground stud to check the size of the stud to make sure your ring terminal's large enough. It's a little bit too small, so we'll step it up in size. Once you select the right size ring terminal, strip it back, go ahead and put it onto our wire, and crimp it down. We'll then go ahead and re-install the ground stud, securing our ring terminal. Using our test light, we're going to go ahead and check the fuses that don't have power with the ignition off. There will be some that have power, like that one. Now, we're going to turn the ignition on and check this 15 amp fuse to make sure it has power with the ignition on and we can use it as our fuse to tap into. It does have power, so we'll go ahead and turn the ignition back off, remove the fuse from the port. Supplied with the install kit will be the fuse tap and there are multiple fuse taps in the kit for the different fuse sizes. We'll be using the one that fits the minifuse here. The fuse tap will slide over the leg of the fuse, then come up and around the body of the fuse. Then we can put the fuse back into the port. With our power wire run into position, we'll go ahead and route it into the fuse box, install the connector, and put it onto the fuse tap. Now, we'll need to bend the fuse tap over so it'll fit here inside the fuse box. To make it easier to close the lid, I'm going to cut a small V to allow for the wire here into the fuse box. Here's using a pair of side cutters, cut out a small section, then close the lid to the fuse box. We'll air up our new system so that we can check it. To check it we're going to use a soap and water solution and spray our connection points. With air pressure on the system, any leaks should bubble up. With that, this will complete the install of the Air Lift Load Controller II Compressor System, part number AL25592, on our 2006 Dodge Ram 2500. .


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Info for these parts were:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Test Fit:
Andrew S
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David F
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Ryan G
Video Edited:
Zack K
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Jacob T
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Andrew L
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Kathleen M
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Chris R
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Andrew K
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Joshua S
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Dustin K
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Jeff D

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