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Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System Installation - 2014 Ford F-150

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How to Install the Air Lift WirelessONE Compressor System on a 2014 Ford F-150

Today on our 2014 Ford F-150, we're going to be installing Air Lift's WirelessONE Compressor System.This is what our compressor system looks like when it's installed. You've got your control box here and your air compressor, that's basically it. It works via Bluetooth to the included remote or to your smart phone with the installed app on it.The remote and the app work together. If you change a preset on your app here or anything, it saves inside the device. It remembers that preset so when you change it to a preset with your remote, it will still have the same value.You can have up to three presets, which is great if you have multiple trailers or various loads. You could set up your first one at five pounds, which is the minimum, and that's basically your unloaded, for normal driving with no load on.

You could set up your second one for a light load. This could be if you just happen to put a bunch of things in the back of your truck bed.You could set up your third one for a heavier load, so when you hook up your trailer you can have it all preset and ready to go. With one click of a button, it will automatically take you there.Once you've got an airbag system installed in your car, it's a good time to install your compressor. You'll want to start by mounting the components, the main ones are your compressor and your control unit. The compressors just going to use some self-tapping screws to thread right into the side of the frame, right about the middle of the rear door where we mounted these components.We used a 10mm socket on the self-tapping screws that came with the compressor to get it mounted.

On one of those screws, you want to take the black wire with the ring terminal on it and slide it over one of those self-tappers before threading it in, to ensure that you get ground there.Our control unit here is going to mount similarly, it just has different style of screws. They are going to be self-tapping. You'll use a 4mm Allen socket to get those in. With these, I did take a small drill bit to pre drill out the holes, as these ones seem to be a little bit softer metal than the other screws. I just made it easier on these to prevent these from snapping when running them in.Using the air line that comes in the kit, you're going to want to cut a small piece of air line to connect between these two.

The nipple that comes off our compressor, you're just going to slide that on there. You can use some soapy water to help get that pushed on there, make that easier.It's going to plug into the air port on your control unit that is next to the electrical plug. Once you've pushed both of those on, on this one it's going to push inside rather than outside. Just push this, then you'll know you got it in when you can't pull it back out. It holds it in there nice and tight.Now we can plug our harness in, and that's just going to snap down right on top.

Make sure it clicks in all the way. Then there's a red lock tab, you just push that over and that will lock it in place.Now we'll hook our compressor up to our harness. The red wire that's coming off your compressor with the spade terminal, we actually need to remove that spade terminal. It's not going to be used, so we're just going to snip that off. Then we'll strip it back, and we're going to crimp on one of the yellow heat shrink butt connectors that comes in your kit.We'll simply slide that on, use our crimpers, and crimp it down. On the other side, we'll connect that to the red with white stripe wire that comes off of our harness here, the one that we plugged into the controller unit. We'll need to strip that wire back, slide that into the butt connector, and then crimp it down.Then you can just use your zip ties to clean that up back here after you shrink down your butt connector. We're aiming our heat gun straight up because we don't want to melt any of the components or the hose.Now we'll tap into our air bags. We'll plug in a piece of the air line that comes with out kit into the side of our Air Lift unit here. It kind of looks like the bottom, this is mounted sideways, so you'll see Air Lift logo there. We want to come out this way.Now if you had to cut this hose, whenever you're cutting it you want to make sure you use a pair of hose cutters, because that cuts it nice and straight and clean. You don't want to use a pair of side cutters or wire cutters on this, you want to make sure you've got hose cutters. If you need some, you can pick some up here at're now going to route our hose back, the airbag here on the passenger side. Our airbag hoses are already plugged in there. You'll receive two T-fittings with your kit.You're going to want to cut the airbag hose. I cut mine just about right above where it comes out of the top of the airbag and added the T-fitting in. You'll just push your hose in each end after you've cut it. Then you want to leave the middle section free, as we're going to be tapping in with our compressor.Now we've brought our air hose back, we want to find about the right length to cut. That's a pretty good spot there, I like to give myself a little excess just in case for the future and to make it easier to tie up the hose out of the way. We're going to give just a little excess there.We'll use our hose cutters here to cut it nice and clean, and you want to cut it square as well. We'll just move that here. It will simply push in to the open spot on our T-fitting, want to make sure that it gets pushed all the way in. I like to push it in, pull it out, do that a few times to make sure that it doesn't go in any further. We're good to go.If you already had airbags installed and you're not installing them right before this, your air line from your airbag probably runs to the back to a fitting, so you can air it up. You're going to want to reroute that over to the other side to your other airbag, or you're going to add another T-fitting.Your airbag on the passenger side is going to run over, plug into the T-fitting, the other side of the T-fitting. This plugs right into this airbag. This hose here is going to go back to that fitting in the back where you air up your airbags manually, if you need to.Now we'll take the rest of our wiring that comes out of our control box here, we want to route it up to the under hood compartment of the vehicle. We just stay on top of the frame, and we route it down on top of the frame there zip tying it along the way.Here on our under hood compartment, you can see our wiring down there. It's a big enough space and you can clearly see, you can just reach down and grab it to pull it up from your frame. We zip tie it along the factory wiring up to our battery here.Our black wire is going to be ground, so that just needs to go to the ground cable here. We'll go ahead and cut off the excess that we don't need. We'll strip it back and crimp on one of the yellow ring terminals that comes in our kit.We can then attach that to our negative cable here at our battery. We're going to remove that nut with a 10mm socket, slide our ring terminal on, and then reinstall the nut.Next we'll hook up our positive wire, that has a fuse harness that we're going to need to install in line with the positive wire. I'm separating out our wire in here, we do have more than we really need.Our red wire here's our positive, so we're going to go ahead and cut that. We'll strip it back, and we're going to crimp on one of the yellow heat shrink butt connectors that come in the kit on to this. We'll just slide that on there, crimp it down.Now on the other end of this butt connector, we want to put that fuse harness. Take your harness here, slide in one end, actually I'm going to slide in the other end just because it's cut uneven. I'd rather have the fuse on this side.The other end of our fuse harness, we're going to crimp on a yellow ring terminal. Now we'll attach this to the positive side of the battery. We're going to go ahead and remove one of the nuts there. We're going to use a 10mm socket just like we did before, slide our ring terminal on, and reinstall the nut. We'll now heat shrink this butt connector and zip tie everything up.Now we can insert the fuse that comes with your kit, it's a 15 amp, into the fuse holder. This is enough to complete your install, your compressor system will work fine as it is. You can go ahead and test it out.There is a pink wire here that is optional. This would hook to an ignition source, so whenever you turned your vehicle on it would excite the system, wake it up, and have it check your pressures and adjust them if they had dropped or rose.We'll go ahead and show you how to install this before we test our system out. The pink wire will connect to an ignition power source. You'll want to test the fuses in your fuse box at the front center and the under hood compartment here and figure out which one has no power on it when the key is off, but has power on it when the key is on.We found that this 15-20 amp fuse here both do. The 20 amp is a little bit further spaced away, so you get a little more room to work with to use a fuse tap so I don't have to cut or splice anything. You can pick up fuse taps here at and that will make things nice and easy to get this wire installed.We're going to remove the 20 amp fuse. I've already pre-tested this, but you'll want to take a test light and check each side of the fuse on the inside to determine which one is the hot wire. When you plug your fuse tap in, the fuse tap will run up one leg through the fuse, and then out this extra lead here to whatever you want to connect it to. That's going to go through our top fuse.If you have it plugged in wrong, where this is connected to the always power, it just goes up and up the wire bypassing the fuse. We can go ahead and put a 20 in the bottom because that's what we pulled out. We are going to put a 10 in the top, and that's going to protect our new circuit, which is going to go to our pink wire.We'll plug that in right to where our fuse goes. You may notice that these are mini fuses that I'm using here in the fuse tap. What we pulled out was a low profile mini fuse. The low profile mini fuses and the regular mini fuses are interchangeable. You can put regular into a low profile slot, you cannot go vice versa though.The low profile ones are a little bit harder to work with, they do have fuse taps for low profile as well. Due to our space constriction, this will work easier.We'll now modify our cover, I've already gone ahead and cut that out. We'll take a razor knife to it to clean it up here before we're done. Make sure it fits and that it shuts, then we can connect our pink wire. We've already routed it over this way from the rest of our wires, we're going to trim off the excess. We're going to strip back the pink wire and crimp it onto the fuse tap there.Now with that connected, even our optional components are now connected. We've completed the install, so we can now connect our phone to the device or use the remote that comes with it to power it on and check for any leaks.We've got our remote here and we went to air it up, and the remote wasn't paired. If it doesn't come paired right out of your package, you will need to remove the fuse from your fuse holder, that will de-power your system. Plug your fuse back in and this will put it into pairing mode for a few minutes to allow you to pair your remote.This also works if you're using the phone app to pair it to your device. Now that we've done that, we're going to go ahead and select the only device that was shown there at the top. It should pair up here in just a few moments. Pairing was successful.Default setting one is five pounds, we're going to go to preset three which is 40 pounds. To do that, we're going to hit both the buttons. We'll use this to check for leaks.To test for leaks, we're just going to use some soapy water. We're just going to spray it on all the connection points where our lines are and look for the presence of bubbles. You see a little bubble there, that's just from it spraying out of the bottle. You're looking for recurring bubbles that keep coming over and over.It looks like we're good here, so we're going to check at the T-fittings back by our airbags to make sure that everything is okay back there. If it is, we're good to go.That completes our installation of Air Lift's WirelessONE Compressor System on our 2014 Ford F-150.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Randy B
Test Fit:
Randy B
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Conner L
Test Fit:
Conner L
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Clayton O
Test Fit:
Clayton O
Employee Zach D
Video by:
Zach D
Employee Michael B
Video by:
Michael B
Employee Thomas T
Video by:
Thomas T

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