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Air Lift AirLift 1000 Air Helper Springs Installation - 2010 Honda Odyssey

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How to Install the Air Lift AirLift 1000 Air Helper Springs on a 2010 Honda Odyssey

Speaker 1: Today on our 2010 Honda Odyssey, we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Air Lift 1000 air helper springs, part number AL60815. Here's what our air bags look like installed. Now, what's great about these air bags compared to other solutions on the market is these will give us a load leveling capacity of up to 1,000 pounds and they have the adjustability that we're looking for. So, if we only have a little bit of weight, we can add just a little bit of air to maintain our factory ride height, or if we have a lot of weight, we can jack up the air pressure a little bit to also maintain the factory ride height.These bags support air pressure between five and 35 PSI giving us the adjustment range that we're looking for to maintain the ride height, give us the comfort and the stability that we're looking for. Now, these air bags aren't going to give us an additional 1,000 pounds of load capacity. They are going to work in conjunction with our vehicle's factory suspension where we have up to 1,000 pounds of weight in the vehicle or a heavy trailer with a high tongue weight.Now, we can easily adjust the air pressure just by opening up our gas door here, removing the cap over our shrader valve and we can adjust it just like we can our tire air pressure, uses the same style fitting.

Here we are at our Odyssey, we're going to get a few measurements to see what the vehicle is like with the factory suspension with no additional weight in the vehicle or without having a trailer hooked up. These will be our factory ride height measurements. Measuring from the center of our rear wheel up to the top of our fender we're looking at about 29 inches. Do the same on the front and we're looking at about the same measurement in the front, about 29 inches.Okay, now we've added some weight to the back of our Odyssey to show carrying a heavy amount of cargo or towing a trailer. Now we'll double check our measurements and see where we're at.

As you can see, we have dropped quite a bit. We're now down to 27 inches in the back. We're about to 30 and a quarter inches in the front. Now, this is going to effect us in multiple ways. By having the back of the vehicle go down and the front come up, number one thing that's changing is the weight transfer to the front.

Meaning we have less weight on our front tires and our front brakes is what does most of our vehicle's braking. Without having the weight up front, they're not as effective.Also, we're going to have increased tire wear in the front and decreased handling ability. We're going to have more tire wear on the outside edge of our tires because when the front end raises, our vehicle gets positive camber where the wheels go like this, causing more wear on the outside edge and less contact patch towards the middle on the inside. Our headlight angle is also going to change. Versus our headlights being point down towards the road, they're now pointing up towards the sky and can actually blind oncoming drivers.Okay, now that we have our air bags installed, we have the same amount weight placed on the back of it again.

Now we're going to compare our measurements and see if we brought it back to our factory ride height or not. We're about 28 inches in the rear. Now we're significantly closer to factory ride height than where we we're before. We'll double check the front now.The front we're about 30 inches. It's come back down a little bit to bring it closer to factory ride height. With the front of our vehicle coming back down and the back coming up, we've now transferred the weight back towards the front, giving us our increased steering, handling and stability and braking ability that we're looking for. We're also going to have better tire wear, better headlight angle and our vehicle is going to drive more like stock.Now, let's take our air bags out on our test course. On the left side of the screen, you'll notice the vehicle without the air bags installed and on the right side of the screen with the air bags installed. The first part of our test course, we'll be doing some evasive maneuvering, doing some quick turns side to side. You'll notice how unstable and unsettled the suspension is without the air bags installed and with them installed you'll notice how much more settled and more control that we have over the vehicle. There is a significant amount less body roll than what we had without them.In the next part of our test course we'll be going over some bumps and you'll notice without the air bags installed, how much suspension travel we don't have. The suspension can't do its job properly because it's sagging down and doesn't have the amount of travel that it needs in order to help go over the bumps. With the air bags installed, you can see how much less jouncing and jarring there is going on because the suspension is able to do its job properly with having the weight being supported by the air bags. This will give us much more handing and breaking ability with the air bags installed giving us the safety that we need when we're towing a load or have a lot of weight in the back of our vehicle.For video purposes, we've already gone ahead and removed our rear tires. To begin the actual install, we'll need to support our rear lower control arm. Since we're on a two post lift, I will use a pole jack to support our rear lower control arm. If you're doing this on the ground and you have your vehicle on jack stands, you can just use your floor jack. It will work the same way. We now need to remove the 17 millimeter bolt that connects our control arm to our spindle.Now before we remove our spring, we're going to make a mark on our spring and a corresponding mark on our control arm so we can help index it to its original position when we're reinstalling. Now we can safely lower our lower control arm slowly in order to relieve the tension on the spring. We can grab our spring, pull down on the control arm, and pull the spring out. Make sure we keep this isolator on the spring and this goes towards the top, we need to remember that. The bottom one, in some applications, you may find yours broken from road debris but we'll still keep it and put it back in place.Now we need to remove our factory bump stop. There's a 14 millimeter bolt going up through the middle of it. Having a deep well socket with about a three inch extension makes it really easy to remove. Now on the underside of our lower control arm in this circular area, we'll take our template that we cut out from the instructions, place it inside, making sure that our location hole is closest to the center of our vehicle and we'll use this as a guide to drill a pilot hole. And we have it marked now so we can take our template down and continue drilling through.Now we enlarge our hole to the size indicated in the instructions. For that, I'm going to use a step bit. Now we can take our spring, this being the bottom section of it, since it doesn't have the thick isolator, which is at the top. We'll take our air bag, insert it so that our fitting faces down. Now we can reinstall our spring. With our spring now inside of our control arm, we'll make sure our marks are as close together as possible to ensure proper alignment and we can start to raise our lower control arm back into position.With our control arm hole now lining up with the hole in our spindle, we can reinstall our bolt. Now before we impact our bolt down into position, we want to make sure we turn it a few times by hand to make sure it starts easily and won't cross thread. With our control arm now secured to our spindle, we can now safely remove our jack that was supporting the weight.All right, now that we have our driver's side air bag assembly in place, we'll do the same for the passenger side. We are looking at our passenger side air bag assembly. You can see where our air line fitting comes through the hole that we drilled. Take one end of our tubing and we'll slide it onto our fitting. Now we'll take one of our clamps, squeeze it with a pair of needle nose pliers and we'll work it onto our air line and then we'll work it all the way down the air line towards our fitting. We'll now slide it all the way up until it clamps the hose to the fitting.Now, we'll take our heat shield, slide it on to our airline tubing and we'll just work it down close to our passenger side by the exhaust. We'll just slide it in this general area for right now. We can adjust it as necessary. Now we're going to route our air line tubing over towards our driver's side. We'll show you what it looks like once we're done.So, our air line tubing, we left a little slack in it. Our suspension is at full droop right now so we don't need to worry about it touching right here. Once we have weight on our suspension, it's going to go up and even create more slack. We routed it up, leaving our heat shielding right in this position because this is the closest point of contact to our exhaust, goes over our sub-frame and we have it zip tied to a wire for our ABS sensor on top of it, zip tied to this wiring harness here for a few sensors, goes over our sub-frame and then it comes out next to where our fuel filler neck is. Now we'll cut off our excess air line tubing. We'll have it right here, right by our rear sub-frame mount. I placed a clamp on the end of it, slide it back a bit, take our T fitting, push it on. Once we have our tubing on our fitting enough, we'll slide the clamp on to the end to secure it to the fitting. We'll place a clamp about an inch down on our segment of air line tubing that we have left over and we'll push this on to our driver side air bag fitting.With that all the way up now, we'll secure the clamp. Okay, our air line for the driver's side, re-routed up over our sub-frame and secured to the same wiring harness as we did for the one on the passenger side and we dropped it down next to where our fitting is. Measure off how much we're going to need, cut off the excess, stick a clamp on it, secure it to our T fitting. Now we'll secure the clamp. Now, we'll take our clamp and one end of our leftover air line, put the clamp on, connect it to the other end of our fitting.With it fully on, we'll move our clamp back up and secure it. Now inside our driver's side wheel well, we have this plastic panel here which covers up our filler neck area. We have three ten millimeter bolts that we need to remove. And then we'll have four plastic push pin fasteners like this one that we need to remove. Use a trim panel tool to get behind the panel, pull it out. Then we can pull the panel down and out of the way. Okay, with our gas door open, we're going to drill a pilot hole right in this area here so we can mount our inflation value.Here with our pilot hole made, we'll now enlarge it to the size indicated in the instructions. Now we'll take our inflation valve, thread on one of the nuts, place on a star washer, insert it through the hole, place on the rubber washer, followed by the flat washer and we'll thread on a nut. Now, we'll tighten down our fitting. We'll use a wrench on the backside. Use a 13 millimeter or a half inch and we'll use a socket on the front side. We routed our air line tubing up from our fitting, behind our filler neck bracket here and then zip tied to this filler neck bracket there. We will now measure off how much of our hose we will need, cut off the excess, take our final clamp, put it on our tubing and we'll push our tubing on to our fitting. And then secure it with the clamp.Now we'll take our two clamps, wrap them around the exhaust near our passenger side air bag, this is the only difference on our passenger side. Let's get these started. This is our heat shield. This will protect our passenger side air bag from the heat from our tailpipe assembly. We need to put this in a location that is where the air bag is closest to the exhaust. That'll be right about in this area here. What we'll do, we'll bend these tabs down and then out like that and we'll clamp it with our hose clamps to the exhaust. We bent it as necessary to clear our lower control arm for suspension travel and to direct as much heat as possible away from our air bag.Now we can cut off our excess hose clamps so they don't rattle against the heat shields. Now we will inflate our air bags to 35 PSI and check for any leaks. The way we check for leaks is we'll spray it with some soapy water at any of our connection points to see if we see any bubbles. If we see small bubbles, that's okay. If we see large bubbles that means we have a leak. We'll even check our shrader valve to make sure that's not leaking. Sometimes a core can be lose inside and you'll have to tighten it.Okay, with no leaks found, it's now safe for us to reinstall our panel back into it's proper position. With our tires reinstalled, we're ready to hit the road. That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Air Lift 1000 air helper springs, part number AL60815 on our 2010 Honda Odyssey.

Info for this part was:

Employee Joe V
Test Fit:
Joe V
Employee Shane T
Test Fit:
Shane T
Employee Brent H
Test Fit:
Brent H
Employee David F
Test Fit:
David F
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B

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