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Malone MegaSport SaddleUp Pro Kayak Cradle Trailer Assembly

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Assembly of the Malone MegaSport SaddleUp Pro Kayak Cradle Trailer

Now, one thing I would recommend when you're getting ready to install this, there's a lot of boxes that come with this. And I would try to find a way to kind of spread it all out, keep things together, that way we don't get a hardware mixed up with different components. And if you follow along in the direction, you'll notice like group one. So I'm working on the main kind of frame here and it's group one. So the bag that comes with this is the hardware that we'll use so we're going to start out. And I have this laid upright, so the way that it will sit on the ground.Now you can see I have all these cross members here laid out that are going to run here, and then the two on the end are a little bit different.

So this one is a little bit more narrow, tapers in, and this one on the back has the Malone logo on it. So we just want to make sure that's how we're doing the front and back. And what we can start doing is we can start piecing this together with the nuts and bolts. And the way that we're going to do this is just hand tight for now. So I'm going to start back here in the corner and just kind of work my way around.

So I'm just going to kind of lay on it, lay on my hardware out.Just get this lined up here and just trapped in from the top. I'm going to run that nut from underneath. And that way it keeps that nut on the inside of our frame so it won't be exposed. The end of that bolt won't be there to snuck stuff on. Now once you get this one loosely installed, we'll skip these next two, and we'll make our way to the next one.

Get that loosely installed and just keep working our way all the way around. We'll just follow those directions in regards to the placement of these beams.Now the fourth one from the very back is going to be flipped. So you can see that the channels we're all facing the rear of the channel until I got to this one. So we flip this one, face the opposite way. And then we get back in that same formation there until we get back to this last one.

And then once we get this one at the very end and install, we can just repeat that same process for the other side.Now once you have all of those in place, what you should do is measure from corner to corner to make sure that you're even. I've done one pretest already and I was really close. I made a tiny, tiny adjustment. It's really hard to be really far off with this. But what you want to do is just make sure it's even as possible. And then we'll get this tightened down in the corners and then we can flip it around to start tightening down the other side. Okay. And this may be a little bit easier if you have a friend helping you out. John is buying the camera today and he helped me out with the pretest on this and got us pretty close. So I'm just kind of doing a quick check to make sure we're really close.We are extremely close. So I'm going to go ahead and tighten this down in the corners with a 14 mm wrench and a 9/16 socket. We'll get those tightened and we can just flip this over and do the same thing on the bottom side. Then to put this over, if you want you can grab a second set of hands. It is doable by yourself but just be careful because it is relatively heavy. And then it's going to be in the same exact spots where we're running that hardware before. Just drop down those bolts from the top and followed up with a nut underneath. I went ahead and I ran all the hardware for the bottom side.I did not install it in this part right here so this is going to be the fourth from the front. Now, we will have additional hardware that runs in that hole later on so we're going to leave that open. And I'm going to leave everything just hand tight except for those corners again. It's good idea to go back and recheck that you have those even just side to side or corner to corner to make sure we haven't shifted at all. So let's tighten those down fully and then we can move down to our next step.Once we have all those four corners tightened down, we can grab the tongue of our trailer. So, it's going to be this piece right here. And the way we know that this is coupler end, we're going to have these three holes right here that are all kind of offset that create this triangle, and that will be the driver side of our trailer. Now we can take one of our wiring harnesses, we're going to come with two, and we're going to grab the one that has two, four pole connectors. And what I'm going to do is take this end right here, and I'm going to feed it in towards the back. And that's where we'll make the connection to the rest of our wiring harness to attach to our taillights and our side marker light.So I'm going to feed that all the way through. I'm going to leave a little bit hanging out of the tongue, that way we can connect to our vehicle and have enough room there. So I'm just going to keep it right about here for now and we'll fish the rest through if we need some more out of the back. But we want to be careful that we don't smash this during this assembly. And then we can make our way to the back. Now, at the back end of that, we'll leave a little bit hanging out. So it's easy to make the connection later. But I'm going to take one of the bolts and nuts that we used earlier, right, same size.I'm going to drop it in and this is going to be our safety just for now. We'll get that loosely installed. Once we have that done, we can lay that down where the tongue is going to go. And we can start adding the rest of our pieces. Now, we have to keep in mind that this is upside down right now. So as we're putting these side pieces to the tongue, the logo will be upside down. And you can see right here where this has a slight bend in it, that's going to lay on the frame that we put together earlier. So we'll just kind of loosely lay this in place. And you can see that's right where that's going to line up with that bolt we left out earlier.So we'll just get that loosely set in place. And we can do the same thing for the other side. It's going to be the same thing over here. Now, we can begin putting those bolts down through those crossmembers. This is where that one was that we didn't have one so you can see it's just the same hardware. We'll get this little loosely install. I mean, it's a little tight, but there we go. And then we can do the same thing right here. We just want to make sure that this is kind of going towards that tongue, that way we're not fighting it once we get these put in place.As we make our way towards the front, we'll kind of pinch these in towards the center. And you'll see that these two oblong holes or oval holes line up with one another. So, I'm going to take a washer with that bolt and run it through. And on the bottom side, I'm going to do a washer with the nut. I will just help that with those style holes that those pass through. Now we don't have a lot of room for threads there now that we have those two washers in place. But there's definitely enough to get that started and tightened down all the way.And then we'll make our way closer towards the front. And we'll do that same thing there. And these are just hand tight because we need to make some adjustments as we get this all put in place. We'll go back later and fully tighten this down. You see, I guess, there's a little bit of room there to make any tiny adjustments that are necessary with matching up with our tongue. You can see, now that I had that loosely installed, we still have the ability to adjust that to make it match up with the opposite side. But now that we have this loosely installed, let's repeat that same process for the other side.We can then grab these long bolts and these plates and we're going to begin attaching our tongue to that frame we just installed. So, I'll run those bolts through that frame. And then we can bring these together like this and just get those to lineup. And I'll pass those through. I want those to pass through the bottom side as well. And this is where having those loosely installed comes in handy, that way we can maneuver this around. So then on the bottom side, we'll follow it up with another plate. And then we'll use those same size nuts we've been using so far and get those loosely installed as well.And we have a couple more spots on the tongue that we're going to do this. And I'm actually going to flip it around. So, I don't want the threaded part of my bolts facing towards the top. So what I'm going to do is with up and feed these through the bottom, that way the nuts are on the bottom side. It will just look a little bit cleaner when the trailer is fully installed. So, I'll get one loosely installed and then I can do the opposite side. So then on this back here, since it's going into these crossmembers, I don't think we need to come from the bottom on those. I think we can easily just feed these through like this.And that may sound a little backwards because this is the bottom of the trailer. So, what we're doing is I came from the bottom in this configuration here upfront but reality that's the top of the trailer, so we can just feed those through. And there's holes that line up on this crossmember and then we'll do that plate on the inside there. Just get those nuts loosely threaded. Once we have all that loosely installed, we can begin installing the brackets for our springs. Now, I'm going to take my U-shaped bracket and my C-shaped slipper bracket, I'm going to get those put in place.Now the U shape is going towards the front of the trailer and the C shape is going towards the rear. We're going to use that hardware we've been using already. I'm going to go bolt down through the frame and then get a nut on the inside of the frame there. And we're going to do this for both sides. And it's just going to be simply getting those put in place. And then we're going to tighten those up all the way once we get these installed. So, just tighten those down with that 9/16 socket, 14 mm wrench. We'll get these fully tightened down and I'm going to do this on both sides.Once we get those hangers in place, we can begin installing the springs on our axle. So we're going to spin our axle around until we find those centering holes for our springs. Once we get those hangers put in place, we can begin installing our spring store axle. So you take the axle, spin it around until we find the centering bolts or centering holes. And then we can take our spring. You can see that we have a nut there and get those to line up. And we can take this plate that has five holes in it, that four in the corners and a larger one on the center there. Get that sit to there.We'll take our U bolts and will come from underneath our axle and get those lined up. And we can get those held in place with these lock nuts. It's the same size we've been using so far throughout the installation. And we will get these fully tightened down in a little bit. These one, we'll get them loosely installed. And we can repeat this same process for the opposite side. Now one thing to keep in mind is we want our springs facing the same direction. So, you just want to make sure that they match one another. We don't want them flip flopped from one side to the other.Once we have those bolts installed, what you can do is you can run these down until the plate is touching. So you can see how much play is right there. We still want a little bit of place so we can kind of wiggle it around to get it put in place. But we want it to be a little bit more tight so I'm just going to make my way back and forth so I get an even pull on those U bolts and get it so it's just about touching or it's still pretty tight but I do have a little bit of wiggle room to move it around. So, we'll just work our way around with the 9/16 socket.So now, once we kind of have those loosely installed, we can slide this in place. And we're going to take this through our slipper brackets down here. And just get those kind of lined up as best as possible. Now we can grab our hardware and feed this through right there. Follow it up with a nut on the other side and we can tighten this down. Now, I'm using a 3/4-inch wrench and socket to get this tightened down. Now, we're only doing this part of the spring. So, we'll get this tightened down fully, and we'll repeat that same process for the other side.All right. Once we get this tightened down, we can go back and we can start tightening this down again. And then as we're getting these U bolts tightened down, what we're looking for, for the tightness is we essentially want that plate to kind of start bending a little bit. And that's when we know that we've got this plenty tight. But we do want to make sure that we're going back and forth. We we're getting a nice, even pull on everything.All right. I think we're just about there. I've got the other side done already. Now we can get our tires put in place. I went ahead and put the other side on. We will just get it lined up. You don't have to lift the tires up very far in this position which is kind of nice. And we can start putting our nuts on here. And we're just going to get these loosely installed. We'll get this tightened down at a proper torque setting once the weight is on the ground and the trailer is flipped up the opposite way.When it comes to flipping the trailer over, it's best to grab a friend. So I've got Adan here. He's going to help me gently lay this over. It is pretty heavy and all we did was add more weight to it when we're getting that put in place. So you saw me struggling to get this when it was just the frame. So what we're going to do is we're going to grab in each corner, and we're just going to gently roll it over onto that tire. And then slowly lower it down to the other side.Thank you, Adan. Adan: You're welcome. Now that we have it down on the ground, we can begin torquing our wheels in place to the proper torque settings located in our instructions.Once we have those tires completely torqued down, we can go back through the entire frame and everything that we left kind of hand tight, we can go back and fully tighten it down. So that's pretty much everything in the frame and the tongue. It's going to be quite a bit but let's get all those tightened down and then we can move on to the next step.Now the last thing I like to do is the tongue when it comes to tightening down all of our hardware. And to get this slid out all the way and kind of support it whenever we're tightening it down, I like to elevate it, so I've got a couple jack stands here supporting the frame on the outside. And I've already tightened down all my bolts except for these last two, you can see those are still tight, so we'll just get those tightened down.You can definitely use power tools if you want but I found that hand tools are a little bit easier and maybe a little bit more time consuming, but getting down in the frame, I think they're easier to kind of get in place. All right. I like to go back and forth with these just so it's pulling down evenly. We've got that fully secured down. So now we can move on to our trailer wiring.Before we start running our wiring, we need to have something to attach them to. So we're going to hook up our lights. And the first thing we're going to do is put our bracket for our tail lights in place. So we're going to take the tail light brackets. And you can see these square holes are going to line up with one another on the frame here. So we'll take our carriage bolt, and I'm going to feed it through there. We don't need washers for this. Get that to line up. And I'm just going to put a nut on place on the back to hold this in place so I can get the other one installed.And the nice thing about this trailer is most of our hardware is the same size so we don't need a ton of different tools. I've been using, for the most part, the same socket and wrench throughout a majority of this installation. So, I'm just going to use that 9/16 that I've been using for the others.When it comes time to installing our tail lights, you want to look for the one that has the light underneath it. This is to illuminate our license plate. So we're going to put this on our driver side, like we have here. And then we also want to install our license plate bracket. So, first thing we need to do is we need to take these nuts off the back of our light. And when we get this taken off, we're going to feed them right through those holes right there. And that center one we can run our wires through.So you can see how I put the license plate bracket on. I'm going to put mine on before I install it to the bracket that's attached to the frame. You can see it right there. We can just start putting those nuts on. Now, the passenger side is going to install the same way, it just doesn't have the license plate bracket to match this side. Also, you don't have that light underneath, but the concept is the same way. So, we'll get those loosely installed.Now, this is where we're going to use a slightly different socket or wrench. We're going to use a 10 mm to tighten this down. And we don't have to really get this extremely tight because we don't want to smash those wires but we definitely don't want this bouncing around so we're going to get this where it's just snug until we get that snugged up. You can see, we're not moving around there. And you can go over top or underneath. I think I'm going to try to go underneath so we're not having these wires up top rubbing. We'll just feed those through the frame where we can easily access those when we run the rest of our trailer wiring.When it comes to installing our side marker lights, we're going to go just behind the second crossmember here and you can see these three holes here. I already installed that side. So what I'm going to do is just get our wires unwrapped there. I'm going to take that nut off that post right there. And then I'll get those wires spread out and I'm going to feed them through the bottom holes. So we'll separate those wires, we'll get those pulled through. Try not to drag them along the edge of that hole. And then that center post there, it's going to go in the center hole.And then we can just, on the backside of that, put that nut, and then we're going to use that same 10 mm socket that we used to tighten down our tail lights. So, this don't need to be really tight. You can see just a couple turns there, and we're secured. So, you would just repeat the same process for the opposite side. And now we can grab the rest of our wiring harness and we can get that prep to plug in to the wiring harness that's coming out of our tongue.So we're just going to plug those four connectors into each other, get those together. And what you can do is you can take some electrical tape around this or a zip tie. That way we don't have any issues with that coming undone. I don't think it would, that is really secure, but just to be a little bit more cautious. And I'm just going to feed that back into our tongue a little bit. We can pull the rest out later.Now, this is where it Ys off. This is where one side will go to the driver and one will go to the passenger. And I want my green side will be a green, white and brown. I want that part running down my passenger side. And I want the yellow, white and brown running down my driver side. And then a little bit before we get to that, you'll see we'll have the brown and white wires that will connect to the side marker lights that we just installed.When we're running our wires, we want to feed them through the frame, the outside frame. So I'm going to take my furthest back connectors. And it's kind of hard to see but there's little holes on the ends of these crossmembers here. And when it comes to making these connections, like I said, they're really easy, but it's very important to make sure that you match those wires to the proper color. So, with those side markers, brown to brown and white to white. And then back here on the tail lights, we want the brown to brown, white to white, yellow to yellow on the driver side and green to green on the passenger side.So we'll just get those connected. And then you can see after I get this last connection, I've got a lot of extra wire kind of hanging out. So what I'm going to do is periodically through the frame I have these holes that aren't being used with this setup. Now, as you can see, I have a lot of slack left in here and we do not want this dangling down like this. I'm going to pull a little bit out so we have a little bit more towards the front of the tongue. But even if I just had a little bit, it starts hanging down there.The probability of catching a stick or anything when you're going down those backroads carrying your kayaks are just going down a normal road and getting caught in there and ripping your wiring up, then you'd have to rewire your whole trailer, you potentially don't have those lights while you're going down the road. So to solve that, Malone includes these little metal clips to keep our wires attached up here to the frame. Now you can do zip ties as well. We're going to install these clips low today and they just slide around our frame. And then we can just get our wiring connected in there.So these clips are pretty tight so I like to use a screwdriver, a flat head to kind of get it pried up. I want to try not to damage that wiring. And you can see there, you can get this held in place. And we can just run those all the way down the frame of our trailer.Next one is our fenders. Obviously, I got this one installed already so we're just going to walk through how to get this one put in place. So we're going to take our brackets here and we're going to take these slotted screws or bolts and I'm going to feed that through from the outside in, get that put in place and grab a nut, put that on, and do the same thing for the bottom one. And then we'll repeat that same process for the opposite side. Now, we want this facing the same direction.And once we get them put in place, we can begin tightening them down. To tighten them down, we'll take a flat-head screwdriver and a 9/16 socket or wrench. We'll get those secured down. When we're attaching this to the frame of our trailer, we'll take our bolt with a flat washer and we'll get this lined up. And I'm going on the hole that's closest to the fender there. So I've got that bolt with a washer through it and then on the opposite side I'm going to put a washer and then that lock nut, get that loosely installed. And we'll do the same thing for the side closest to the front of our trailer. Tighten that down. And then we'll grab 9/16 socket or 14 mm socket wrench and we'll begin tightening those down.Once we're done installing our fenders, we can work on the front with the coupler and our skid plate here. So I'm going to take my safety chains and a bolt. I'm going to run a bolt through the very last links of each respective chain. So we'll have it like this. We'll feed it up through there and this will attach to the tongue of our trailer and then we'll follow it up with a washer and nut on the inside. So get these lined up with the holes in the bottom of our tongue and we'll put that washer on and that nut, we can start tightening those down.It is kind of a tight fit to get that nut inside but it's only about an inch and a half in there. So it's definitely doable but it is kind of a tight fit. So I can say I got that loosely installed and get that tightened down all the way but I want to make sure that my chains aren't kind of bound up so I'll kind of separate them a little bit so it's easier to hook up to our vehicle.Now, we can get our coupler in place. We need to make sure that we're installing the handle at the same time. We're going to grab our bolts and those are going to pass through both of those. There we go. I'm just going to get a nut on there to hold this in place while I install the other one. Now these are a little bit larger than what we've been working with. So these are going to be tightened down with a 19 mm or 3/4-inch wrench and socket. That one held in place.Now when you're tightening this down, you don't want to be overtight with it because you don't want to crash the coupler or the tongue, that is not ideal. If we get too tight on this, we're not going to be able to use the locking mechanism of our coupler. But obviously we want it tight because this is where it connects to our vehicle on the ball mount. Get that nice and snug.Now we can put the support tubes in place for our load assembly bars. And I already have the driver side done. What we're going to take is this piece right here, our support tube. And we're going to pass a U bolt through it just like that. So we're going to come from the outside, and just like that. So I'm going to bring it back as far as it will go and then we're going to put these nuts on the inside there. And we're just going to tighten those down evenly. So just go back and forth with a socket or a wrench. Now, I just have a deep well socket for this one so a little bit easier to use in my opinion but a wrench will also work for you. I prefer the ratcheting kind.So I'm just going to tighten this down until I get a nice tight fit. Okay, that one's in place. Now we can follow that same process for the front one. It's a little tricky though so let's just show you how we got that one put in place too. So we're going to go just behind our second crossbeam from the front. And it's a tight fit because this is where that subframe for our tongue kind of angles in. So it's really tight fit, that's where that socket isn't going to work out well. I'm going to just use a wrench.And even though I have that ratcheting wrench, there's not enough room to use on the bottom one so I'm just going to have to do it in little tiny quarter turns and so we get that put in place. But I'll get this on here, get it fed through the same way. Get it up against that crossmember. And if you take a closer look, you can see how I kicked my nuts all around this trailer. So you can see here where this beam right here comes into play. That's where I can't even get a socket. I can't even get my ratcheting wrench on there, so we're just going to just go through and slowly get that tightened down with our wrench.Try to get that as tight as we can. And it's definitely doable. I did it on the other side, it's just a little bit slower. And this is where Malone wants you to install this. So, my first instinct was to bring it to the front so I'd have more space, but we're going to keep it right where they want it just so we have that proper load capacity that we're looking for in this trailer.We need to install our bracket that holds the load bars to our support arms. So I'm going to take one of these bolts right here. And I'm going to pass it through and get it secured with a lock nut on the other side. And then before I move on, I can put one of my larger end caps in place right there. If you want, you can take like a hammer and just kind of get it in place but you can also get with your hand there. Then we'll take another bolt and run it through here and get that loosely installed. Now, I'm only doing this hand tight because we still need to slide our load bars through.I've already done the other side so let's just get our load bar put in place before we tighten all this down. So we can just slide this through. And it's personal preference but we all like to have these holes right here facing the inside. And that's essentially where some tie-down anchors are going to go. So, I like to have those all kind of matching up. You can have them on the outside if you want but I'm just going to have them matching up to the rear bar that I installed already. So we'll just get this run through here.And we just need to make sure that we're getting this centered up. And then once we get it centered, we can begin tightening down these eight bolts. And then when we get this centered up, we can begin tightening down these bolts. We're just going to use that same set, that 9/16 or 14 mm we've been using throughout most of this. And then we can just repeat this same process for the other side.So this next step should be extremely simple, but for me, it was the most annoying part because I already did the rear bar and it's just a hook, it's tie-down anchor. But the way that they put this in place, I don't like it. So we'll run our bolt through it and through this. Now, on most of the rest of the connections we have on this trailer, the bolt passes all the way through whatever we're connecting it to. Well, there's nothing to pass through there so we have to have this nut on the inside of this. So, it creates a nice clean look but it's extremely difficult, in my opinion, to get this in there.So you can't really get your finger in there far enough to get that put in place. So you can put it on a wrench, if possible. I'll just use a 14 mm and you can either put it on either end. And just kind of get it put in there enough to where you can get it started. But the thing is, you can't pull that wrench off all the way. Once it's in there, you start tightening it down, that bolt gets too far to where you can't get your wrench out. So they suggest using a screwdriver which seems a little silly to me. You can do it. It's just going to take you a decent amount of time.Now, I found using a little bit thicker device like this pry bar here, worked a little bit better. And it's up to you on how tight you want that to sit there. If you want it to just be extremely forced up there and all you can do as raise and lower this, that's fine. We left one like that on the back and then we left one where we could rotate it. One, because we like flexibility. But, two, just because it takes so long to get that tightened down. It is worth, in my opinion, leaving it a little bit loose.Now, that being said, you're probably losing some ability or some weight capacity on what you can tie down there. So just keep that in mind. This will take a little bit of effort but it is doable. So we're just going to be patient and try to get this installed without getting too irritated. Get it started as best as possible. We don't want to go too far because we still need to get our wrench out. I definitely made that mistake first time.It's kind of like when we're putting those support arms towards the front on the same piece and we we're real tight with that U bolt. This is just another one of those things where awesome trailer, just a couple pieces of the installation, just a little tight and don't match up with the ease of installation compared to the rest of it. So, just be patient, get it lined up and you should be good. So what I ended up using was a 14 mm wrench that wasn't ratcheting. The ratcheting ones are just a little bit wider. But I still had that issue where I couldn't get this tightened down all the way and get the tool out of there.And I don't think the screwdriver trick that they have in the direction is a good one. You can get it a little bit but you're getting that bolt at a weird angle. So you can see, I've got it pretty tight. I can still move it around a little bit but it's not wiggling around either. So I feel pretty comfortable with that. The next thing we need to do is put our end cap in place so we can just put those on. Now this one is a little bit smaller than the larger one we put in the base. We'll just kind of get it centered up and then you can use like the butt of a screwdriver if you want but you can just push it in as well. So then we would just repeat that same process for the other side and we have our load bars ready.The next thing we need to do is put our jack stand in place. So I've got my bolts. I'm going to pass them through the top here. And then I'm going to get that plate on the other side and I'm going to put a split lock washer and a nut on the other side. Now, when it comes to putting the bottom bolt in, we want this to be in the hole that's closest to the tongue of the trailer. There's several different holes and that's to work with different types of trailers. This jack can work with several different size tons. Get that put in place and then get this hand tight for now so it can hold itself in place to get the rest of our hardware installed.And I noticed when I've had this bracket put on, I had it upside down. So make sure that you have those matching. You won't be able to get this installed properly without it having it match up to the other side. But the three holes on the bottom is the way that we want that bracket to be so it matches up with the opposite side of our jack. Now to get these tightened down, we're going to use a little bit different size socket wrench that we've been using throughout this entire installation.So we're going to switch to 17 mm on both. And you're going to want a I'm using a little bit deeper well socket to get over those bolts. And the way we know that we get this tightened down all the way, because we don't want to crash this tongue, those split lock washers as they flatten out and get even, that's a really good rule of knowing that we have this tightened down all the way. So let's just evenly go back and forth between the four of them and get this tightened down all the way.All right. And as soon as we get that last one done and we've got this fully tightened down, we can take this bolt at a place down here and we can begin placing our wheel onto our jack. So we can grab our wheel, run our bolt through the outside frame and the wheel, put that nut on there. And then to get this tightened down, we need a 3/4-inch or a 19 mm wrench and socket and we can just start tightening this down. And then you don't need to have this real tight. I definitely want some thread peeking out the other side of that nut there but you can see we still have the ability to roll that but that's not coming loose.So then we can rotate it, get it all held in place, whichever way we want. And I'm not going to take this quite off the jack stand yet. But you can see, that's working, so I'll just put a little bit there to help us out with everything. And the next step is to get our basket put in place. And, John, the guy behind the camera helped me get this back in place back here. We just simply set it down back behind the rear axle, so I like to get it as close to that axle as possible as far as you can go. Then we'll take this U-shaped bolt, right, has that little indention there and we're just going to get it at a slight angle around our frame.It's like this. And I like to go closer towards the center of the basket. And then we'll take this plate right here and we'll get it to line up with our bolts. It may take a little bit of maneuvering. I see that my leaf spring bracket is blocking me there. So, I'm going to take it off and just flip it this way. Just like that. Get it held in place for just a second and just start putting those nuts in place.And then we'll come back with the 9/16 socket or wrench, whatever you've got but you're definitely going to need something like a deep well with this to get that all the way in place. And it's kind of an awkward angle to tighten this down. So once again, we'll just have to be kind of patient with it. I thought I was going to be able to do this whole trailer without power tools but I just wanted something that was a little bit quicker. So I just got this impact and I'm just getting that tightened down, so it's tightened down enough. I'm not really bending anything but I definitely want it to be snug. So then we'll just repeat that same process for the other side.Now, to secure the lid, we'll just run the strap. I have it just below where the lid attaches through one of those grids. And then I'm just going to run it all the way up top. And then we'll just do the same thing over here. Let's run it through that edge. No, there's not a lot of slack here but it's just enough to keep our lid secure. I do like that that strap comes with that piece underneath it to protect the finish. It's a nice kind of rubber coat on there. So we don't have that metal buckle there rubbing up against it. So, we'll just take out that slack and there's not even enough really to tie it off there.Now to prep our box, we're going to put our retaining handles in place. But, first, we need to put the brace for that. So I'm going to take one of these bolts, run it through this bracket, and then run it through this small hole down here below our latch. And then we're going to follow that up with a large washer and then a large nut. Get that loosely installed. So to tighten this down, we're just going to use a 13 mm wrench and socket. Then we can pass our bolt through here, so it's going to have a pretty long shoulder there.So, that's the way to tell which one goes in there and we can tighten that down with the same wrench and socket we're just using. And then once we get that side tightened down all the way, we're going to do that same process on the opposite side. We don't need this to be real tight but I like for that metal clamp to just barely touch the rubber there. You can see, still usable, but it's not moving around a whole bunch. So, we'll go do that other side real quick and then we can move on to our drain plug. So just put that right down in the drain hole that's down in the bottom corner of this. Get that lined up. Now, we'll use the self-tapping screws that are included to get that fastened in.So next thing we need to do is pass our bolt through our wheel. And then we're going to take two small washers. And then we're going to pass that through the hole on the opposite side of where we put that drain plug. Then on the inside, we'll put a large washer then I'll follow it up with a nut. Get this tighten down with 13 mm socket and wrench. We want it to be pretty snug. We don't want that kind of bouncing all around but we don't want it so tight that the wheel doesn't roll.The washers and those bearings are going to help out with that but we still want it to be somewhat that's a little too tight, so we'll loosen that up just a little bit because we want that to spin a little bit. It's a little bit better. All right, there we go. That's much better. So, we're going to repeat that same process for the opposite side. Once we get those wheels on, we can put the lid in place, put that latch down and take one of our carabiners on this side, secure it, and then do that same process on the other side.The next step is to insert our rollers. And that's where we have these two crossmembers right here. Remember, we face those into one another. And we're going to do this on the passenger side. And you can press this in. So, the way we're going to do this is we're going to insert it into that hole right there, press it in, get it to line up there. And then we'll do that same process here. There you go. Now, we have those in place.The next step is to install our handle cleats. In the directions, they say to measure between the two center crossmembers here. And then you'll take that measurement down and you'll line up the bottom of this with the bottom of the top beam right here. Now, ours we're already predrilled, but since they had those in the directions, I just want to kind of give you guys a quick run over of how you would do that.So measure the center, bring it down. And then you'll use this, the holes in the handle cleats, to mark your spot. And then you can predrill with a 5/32 bit. And then you can just run the self-tapping screws that are included. So it's really convenient that it came pre-drilled for us. I don't know if that's just a weird coincidence or not but it is very convenient today. So I'm going to get that lined up. Get my self-tapper started in there. And then we can just get that second one put in place. And then we'll just repeat that same process for the opposite side.Next thing we need to do is actually go back and remove these top bolts from those center channels on both sides, just the top one. So we're just going to go back and use that 14 mm that we we're using earlier. And we can just get those completely removed.Next thing, we'll grab our channel guides and we're going to install those in the oval holes right next to where we just remove those bolts. So right here and right here and then on the opposite side. So we'll get that loosely set in place. We'll take that bolt and washer come up from the bottom side and get this loosely threaded on. And we're going to leave this loose for now. We'll come back and tighten those up later.Next, on those channels that are loose, on the holes closest to the passenger side, and we're going to take these longer bolts, we're going to drop them down through just like this. And what these are doing, these are going to be this staff or the break of our boxes we're sliding out so it doesn't go too far. So we'll just take a lock nut on the bottom side of that and get that installed and get those tightened down.Next, we can grab the box. We can get this loosely set in place. And this is why we have those rails loose so we can kind of get it back there. But we got to remember we have those staffs there as well so we got to get around those. And get that put in place. And now, we can go back and tighten up those bolts that are loose. And what we want to do is we want to bring those in so they're not pressing out like that. We want to have them in, that way we can easily slide this back and forth. You can see that's where those stops come into play. All right. So let's get those tightened down real quick.So as we tighten this down with a 14 mm socket and wrench, we just kind of want to apply some pressure in. And you remember those bolts we took out right here, those are not going back in. So I would hold on to those, store those in the garage somewhere and just so you have some extra hardware of the same size. If for some reason you need it, it's good to have that instead of having to run to the hardware store and trying to get it all matched up.So let's get these all tightened down. So now that we have those rails in place, you can see, you can get that sliding back and forth. Now we just need to latch this down. Just pull down on that. And for transport, you need to have both those secured. So, now we have our box installed.Now the last thing we need to do is get our spare tire put in place. So I've got my spare tire sitting up here on the front, then we're going to take our U bolt and we're going to fit it from underneath. Get that lined up. And we're going to take one of our two pieces here. And one side is a little oval to allow a lock to go through and the other one is threaded so we'll take that threaded one. I want to just get that started on here. There we go. Go down a little bit.We want that U bolt flush up against our frame underneath so we get that until it's making contact with the rim and the wheel. You can see that hold itself in place so we can get this other one started. So we'll just get that tight and get those facing one another and if you've got a lock, you should definitely put something on there. I don't think that those are going to come undone but it's still a good idea to keep that secure just so somebody doesn't walk away with it. You can see now we have that in place.For me, the last thing to do other than putting your proper and legal stuff on your trailer is I'll push this little excess through. Brian had a bad idea to tape up these accessory wires that we're not using here today. And then the next thing you need to do is install your kayak carriers or your bunks, whatever style kit you're looking for, and those just clamp around our load bars here. Really easy to put those in place. And then we just want to make sure that we get all the legal stuff taken care of, so stickers, plates.You can see the assembly. It took a decent amount of time but you can definitely do it. I just used some basic hand tools. Now, power tools make it a little bit quicker so that's definitely a plus if you've got those lying around, but it's not going to take a whole lot. It's just being patient. Couple things, there's some hiccups here and there of trying to get into tight spaces. But, overall, you just follow along, you'll be able to get this installed correctly. But that's going to do it for our look at the assembly of the Malone Mega Sport trailers.

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Info for this part was:

Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Zach D
Installed by:
Zach D
Employee Evangeline M
Installed by:
Evangeline M
Employee John S
Video by:
John S

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