Best 2007 Chevrolet Silverado Hitch Options

content loading



Customers compare C15323 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video






Best 2007 Chevrolet Silverado Hitch Options


Today we're taking a look at the four best hitch options available for the 2007 Chevrolet Silverado. Here on the top we've got the CURT class three. This is part number 13322. Just below it, the CURT class four. This is part number 14301. Right below that, the CURT class five.

This is part number C15323. Then here on the bottom we're going to have our Draw-Tite class three. This is part number 75362. All of our hitches are going to offer a 2" by 2" receiver tube opening. Now as far as weight ratings are concerned across the different hitches, for the class three that we have here on the top, the CURT, and the class three that we have here on the bottom, the Draw-Tite, the tongue weight ratings are going to be 600 pounds. That's the maximum downward force we could put here at the receiver tube opening on either one of the hitches.

The gross trailer weight rating or the maximum amount of our trailer and everything that we've got loaded up is going to be 6,000 pounds on the CURT, 6,000 pounds on the Draw-Tite. Now once we move into weight distribution setups we're going to move up to 800 pounds tongue weight on the Draw-Tite, 8,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. We're going to move up to a 1,000 pound tongue weight on the CURT or a 10,000 gross trailer weight rating. Now the class four, of course that's going to be a little stiffer, a little sturdier. This is going to offer us a 1,000 pound tongue weight rating and a 10,000 pound gross trailer weight rating. Once this one goes to weight distribution, then we go to 1,200 pounds on the tongue weight and 12,000 pounds on the trailer weight.

Once we get into the extra duty or the really heavy duty class five CURT here, whether we're using weight distribution or not, we're going to have a 2,400 pound gross tongue weight rating or the maximum downward force again we can put on our receiver tube opening. Now once we go for towing, the gross trailer weight rating is going to be 16,000 pounds. Then when weight distribution is introduced, that goes up to 17,000 pounds. Now of course with any of the hitches, that's what they're capable of doing. We need to refer into the owner's manual of our vehicle, see what it's capable of. We'll just go off of whichever of those numbers are the lowest.

Now you can see here with the CURT class three and with the Draw-Tite class three we're going to have the classic kind of style of round tube. When we get into our little heavier duty hitches like our class four here and the class five, these have the square tube design. Now one big difference that I've noticed right off the bat, if we look at the class four you can see that the receiver tube opening is below that main crosstube of the hitch, whereas on the CURT three, the CURT five, and the Draw-Tite class three, they're all directly in line with it. What that means to me is that this crosstube is actually going to be tucked up behind the bumper and out of sight. We'll just have our receiver tube opening that's going to hang down below. Aesthetically, that's probably going to be the cleanest looking hitch out of the four. This one we'll see from about here down. The class five we'll see all the way across. That's the one we've got installed on our Silverado there now. The same with the Draw-Tite class three. We'll see this crosstube all the way across. Now the CURT class four, the CURT class five, and our Draw-Tite class three, they're going to use three existing holes in the frame rail. The one on the outermost here is going to be one of the bumper bracket bolts. We pull that out, put our hitch up, put that back in. Then just add in two bolts in the pre-drilled holes. For the CURT we're going to use that same bumper bracket mount, the hole just behind it. Then we've got two center connections here that we'll be adding in. Again, everything's pre-drilled. There won't be a big difference between installing this one and the other three, but these really went in quick. There wasn't a lot of work to it. Everything's already existing there. You just put it in, bolt it up, and you're ready to hit the road. Now one thing the Draw-Tite is going to offer that I don't see on the CURT is going to be a small bracket that's been welded on. It's got three hole locations across here, so it really helps us out if we've got a bracket to mount our wiring or something like that. Now it's not as big of a deal on the Silverado as maybe some other cars, because typically they're going to have that factory 7-pole plug in there that we can use. If you're doing a 4-pole or you're doing a custom wiring installation, that might come in handy. Now our hitches are all going to have one thing in common. That's going to be the 5/8 diameter pinhole. Now these are going to work out great for any of the 5/8 diameter accessories. You want to match your class of course, class three, class four, class five. Make sure it's rated for the kind of weights that you're dealing with. The one thing you'll see a little bit different on the Draw-Tite, it's going to have a double pinhole setup. The larger ones are standard 5/8 pinhole. The one just in front of it is a smaller hole; that's for use with the j-pin stabilization system. It will come in and lock everything out and get it stabilized. Now as far as safety chain connection points go, the CURT up here is going to have one of the smaller opening holes. It's kind of a plate style. I really don't think you'll have any issues getting safety chains connected to that. The CURT class four is going to have more of a rolled steel style. I prefer the look of the plate styles, but that's a cosmetic thing, not really a mechanical thing. These are also really good for connecting safety chains. Now once we get into the class five CURT, it's an extra duty hitch or it's a heavy duty hitch. Everything about it is going to be just that. It's going to be heavy duty. We've got really thick safety chain connections, steel plate here. Nice large hole openings. We should able to get just about anything connected there that we'd want. Then when we move down here to the Draw-Tite, a similar size hole, similar size spacing on the front there. It's just a little bit thinner plate than what you've got on your class five. This would be more comparable to what we see on the CURT class three. Now visually a difference that we are going to see between the class five and the other three hitches that we have here is going to be the coating. You can see here kind of a high gloss powder coat finish on the hitch, whereas when we look at the extra duty hitch this is going to actually have a double coating on it. We've got an initial protective coating that goes on, then a matte powder coat finish that goes right over the top. It really makes it look really nice. It will also help it stand up for a long time. Now as far as a few measurements that will be helpful, from the center of the hitch pinhole here on our class five to the outermost edge of the bumper, we're looking at about 2". Once we get into our class four hitch from CURT, that's going to move back about an inch. The class three hitch from CURT, it's going to be back about a 1/2" so it's going to be 2-1/2" from the outermost edge of the bumper. Then for the Draw-Tite, it's going to be about 2-1/4". They're all within about an inch of each other. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, the highest one we're going to have is going to be the class five here. That's going to be about 20-3/4". Once we go to the CURT class three, that moves down to about 20-1/2". On the Draw-Tite class three, that's going to be about 19-1/2". Then on the class four CURT it's going to be about 18". Now we test fit these on a couple different vehicles with different tires and things of that nature. That may vary a little bit depending on if you've got oversize tires or off-road tires, or you've got regular highway tread tires. That may vary just a little bit, but from the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of the bumper, that's going to be pretty consistent across the board. Now when we have greater tongue weight ratings on hitches, that gives us more stiffness. Let's say we want to transport big bike racks and stuff. Even if we want to use the biggest of the biggest platform racks or 4-bike hanging racks, we're never really going to have an issue with any kind of flex or anything with those higher rated hitches. Now that we've had a good look at the differences in the best hitches available, we hope this will help you in making your buying decision.

Info for these parts were:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Video by:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Andrew S
Test Fit:
Shane H
Test Fit:
Robert C
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Video Edited:
Sue W

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.







^
About Us
photos and videos
1,056,204

Original Photos & Videos

Produced to make sure you know what you are getting and you get exactly what you need.

installations
35,570

Installations Completed

To make sure products work and fit the way they are supposed to.

etrailer call center
2,476,511

Phone Calls & Emails Answered

1,125,924 phone calls and 1,350,587 emails to help find the right solution.

etrailer training
400+

Average Hours of Product Training

We get to know our products firsthand so experts can better help you.

etrailer service
71

Years of Quality Customer Service

Assisting our neighbors and customers, face to face at the counter.

etrailer experts
193,357

Pages of Expert Information

Created to make sure you have all the answers to your questions, from real experts.