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Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Item # BK3-200
Retail:$39.69
Our Price: $31.79
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal part number BK3-200 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-200

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • Bearing 14125A and 25580
  • etrailer
  • Race 25520 and 14276


Trailer Hub Bearing Kit

Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
14125A
25580
10-36
2.250"


BK3-200 Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal





Video of Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal - BK3-200

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (331 Customer Reviews)


by:

Another order delivered on time to keep us rolling. Customer service is always top notch. Very knowledgeable and helpful. Highly recommend these guys for all your wheel and brake needs.



by:

This is one of those times where I really needed to stop and take the time to write a review. If you look at the pictures you will see that I have a tri-axle trailer and I had no paperwork on the brakes when I bought it from the original owner. So I call e trailer and I get Cathy T on the phone. I ask her if trailers are her specialty and she says "sure they are" I said ok great lets dig in but I don't know what I have but I told her I did have a caliper to measure. So after about an hour on the phone she questioned me enough to figure out the front and rear bearing AND race sizes, the seal size AND the replacement break assembly kit to use. I never once felt rushed and she was awesome !! There was a lot to ask about to make sure we got it right and guess what Cathy T NAILED IT. Check out the picture of the parts on the bench. Every part was exactly what I needed. It all worked out perfectly and I cannot say enough good things about my experience with e trailer and Cathy T. If you EVER need help with a trailer E Trailer is the ONLY place to go. The price is incredible and the service is even better. What an awesome organization. Thank you E Trailer and Cathy T



by:

Everything was exactly what I needed to finish my project. The staff was very helpful in helping order the right group of parts and were extremely knowledgable. I will diffidently use this great groups of folks again!



by:

I had my outer bearing come apart on my trailer, so my trailer originally had made in China bearings so I decided to order these made in China set of bearings. I was disappointed when I installed these because the outer bearing race (which is one of the main parts I needed) did not fit tight in my hub. It would spin freely in the hub. So because I needed my trailer back on the job, I had to put back the orginal ( bad) race back in. So now I need to order another set of bearings and tear it and apart again and hopefully get it fixed this time. So going with this cheaper set of bearings ended up costing me more time and money. Made in China parts disappointed me again.



by:

Great product and great service.Went on real easy.Got alot of help making sure I had correct parts for my axles.Will definitely shop there again.



by:

Only two of the four bearings/races fit my application. Against the odds I did manage to find the proper combination at a dedicated bearing warehouse. Don't trust claims of proper fit on older mobile home axles.



by:

Always get the correct/best parts from etrailer....thanks



by:

Bearings came complete and so far have held up great for a year with no problems pulling around a 10,000lb skid steer every week



by:

The customer service team really helped me identify the parts required. Shipping time was minimal. Here in Florida, placing the races in the freezer and removing just before installation aided in getting them in.



by:

Very fast delivery day early, just what was order. Thank you



by:

The brake assys fit perfectly.. They don't even need adjusting. The project is not completed , It's pretty much a rebuild,The bearings are also a perfect fit.. Thanks for your intrest and great service, I'm 82 years old and have been at this since I was in hi school. Thanks again, Vern



by:

The ease of ordering, pricing and quick shipping is why I’ve used etrailer several times. I can’t really review the bearings because they were placed on a boat trailer that has only traveled not much over a mile from the ramp to a parking lot. But the slowly turning wheels were much quieter than with the old loose and squeaky ones. These were placed on a sailboat trailer with two 7,000 lbs axles. I’ll use etrailer again if a need arises.



by:

Great product just wish they were in a package or bag to help stay sealed



by:

Good product and great company to deal with.



by:

FKN perfect part; fast AF



by:

Bearing are in good condition and look good. One thing you can count on, is e trailer, great service and great shipping.



by:

Quality bearings and fit perfect.



by:

some of the bags were ripped open and contents scattered in box

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.

3/16/2023

Oh goodness! I will have our Customer Service team reach out to you.



by:

I would give you more but your packaging sucks! Your product came in small packages inside box with 4 of your electric drum brakes. The brakes were in there loosely packed with some packing paper. Of course every small package is torn up! Pretty silly to me. Now I’m missing 2 cotter pins! The packages are open in the boxes and no pins anywhere. I don’t have time to wait for your company to send me some pins. Frankly, you guys just need to think a little.



by:

Still working to make sure I have the right bearings. Without numbers, its difficult to match them up. There are multiple options for the same trailer



by:

I received my order on time and complete. I am very pleased with the product and the professionalism of etrailer. They had the trailer parts I needed, answers to my questions, pictures to compare products, and kits that were just what I needed. I will be ordering from these folks again!

Eugene

5/20/2020

Everything is working great from my order. Etrailer has helped me with other questions as well. Thank you very much!



by:

Great communication and customer service. The parts arrived quickly.



by:

Was a few issues with shipping delays, but was kept updated with emails from etrailer the entire time. Happy with the customer service. Will purchase from again.



by:

After a lot of research with the help of etrailer support I purchased the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2HR712 and installed on a 2013 Dutchmen Rubicon 2900 with 7K lippert axles to replace the 13” Electric drum brakes. I discovered any questions about whether the disc hubs would fit my axle was eliminated when I realized I just had to verify the wheel bearing numbers for the disc hubs were the same as what was on my axles. (bearings, caps and seals do not come with the kit and need to be ordered separately).
My trailer had dual axles, the disc kits came in separate boxes that did fairly well in shipping, nothing poking out of the boxes or anything. Parts matched and fitted without any problems. Again, etrailer support was very helpful in getting the correct parts and any questions I had during the installation. I could have done this myself however I choose to have a brake tech do the hydraulic lines and bleed the system out. Very satisfied with the product and support.



by:

Did not get a chance to use them. While traveling out west stopped for fuel. Checked all the wheels, springs and linkage and everything was good. Afterwards the bearing cap popped off the hub and the outer bearing failed. The wheel came off bending the sheet metal and stairs. Axle dragged on the ground and damaged the end and tore off the brakes. Spent 3 days on the side of the road. Luckily had a spare axle and brake system with me. Needed a new hub. Could not find the original wheel alongside the road and we looked and looked.
So if you ever have a bearing cap come off and even though the bearing looks full of grease beware that it will now prematurely fail!!!!


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  • Replacement Bearing and Grease Seal Kit for a Coachman Chaparral Camper
    We have a few different kits for you to check out depending on the weight capacity of your axles and the inner diameter of your grease seal. If you can confirm the weight rating of your axles and the inner diameter of your grease seals then you just need one of the following kits: 2.125" ID Grease Seal: - 5,200 lb Axle # BK3-310 - 6,000 lb Axle # BK3-110 - 7,200 lb Axle # BK3-210 2.250" ID Grease Seal - 5,200 lb Axle # BK3-300 - 6,000 lb Axle # BK3-100 - 7,200 lb Axle # BK3-200
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  • Replacement Grease Seal and Bearing Kit For a Dexter 7,000LB EZ Lube Axle
    The Grease Seal # GS-2250DL is the common grease seal size for a Dexter 7,000LB EZ Lube axle. This is a single item or we also have it as a Pair # RG06-070 if you are wanting to replace them both on one axle when you clean out the bearings and hub. The Bearing Kit # BK3-200 contains the common bearing and race sizes used on a Dexter 7,000LB axle. It also includes a grease seal allowing you to replace the bearings and races on one hub. If you provide me with the serial number from your...
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  • Disc Brake Kit with 8 on 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 7,000 Pound Axle
    Since you have 6 lugs it's very possible you have 6,000 pound axles. But either way you can upgrade to an 8 lug for 7,000 pound axles. You'll need to replace the bearings, races, and seals to match the new sized hubs. The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712E with Bearing Kit # BK3-200 will work great on your trailer. These have an e-coat finish to help prevent corrosion from the elements. If you don't already have disc brakes you're also going to need an electric over hydraulic actuator...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Grease Seal for 7,000 Pound Lippert Axle
    According to Lippert, the correct bearing kit is the # BK3-200. This includes the # 14125A outer and # 25580 inner bearing, along with the 10-36 grease seal.
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  • Recommendation For Bearing/Races/Seals Replacement Kit For 7,000-lb Lippert EZ-Lube Axles
    I contacted Lippert to confirm bearing sizes and it sounds like your 7,000-lbs axles have an outer bearing like Item # 14125A and an inner bearing like Item # 25580 and a 10-36 seal. Based on this information, I recommend the replacement Bearing Kit, Item # BK3-200, which includes bearings, races, grease seals, and cotter pin. For hub grease caps, I recommend Item # rg04-120. The dust caps are sold separately so if you need them I recommend the Rubber Lube Plug, Item # DC-RP. If these...
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  • Replacement Bearings for 4,300 Pound Axle on 2008 Airstream 19CB
    For replacement bearings, races, and seals on your 2008 Airstream 19CB you need the following: -Bearings: Inner # 25580 Outer # LM67048 -Races: Inner # 25520 Outer # LM67010 -Grease Seal: # RG06-070 For grease you can use the LubriPlate Poly HP-2 Wheel Bearing Grease # L11465. If you need a grease gun as well we have the # L30200 along with the # L70025 to help pack the bearings.
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  • How To Find Correct Grease Seal for Dexter 7,000 Lb Trailer Axles
    The Dexter 7,000 Lb Trailer Axles can come with one of two grease seals, part # GS-2125DL which has a 2.125" inner diameter or part # GS-2250DL which has a 2.250" inner diameter. They both have a 3.376" outer diameter. The only way to determine which you have would be to either pull the seals and measure them with a digital caliper or reached out to the axle manufacturer with the serial number. If you're looking for a bearing kit, we have options with both of these seals. The Bearing...
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  • Correct Replacement Bearings and Seals for Dexter 7,000 Lb Axle
    The correct bearing and seal kit for your Dexter 7,000 lb axles is going to be either the Bearing Kit part # BK3-210 which has a 2.125" seal or the Bearing Kit part # BK3-200 which has a 2.250" seal. Unfortunately, this axle could have come with either seal so you will need to pull the hubs and read the seal part number or measure the spindle/seal to choose the correct replacement. The other option is to just get one bearing kit and order the other seal; 2.250" part # GS-2250DL or 2.125"...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Brake Assemblies for 2017 Jayco Pinnacle 36FBTS with 7000 lb Axles
    For your 7K axles, you will want the Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal # BK3-200 for each hub if you have the standard spindle. If you have the EZ Lube spindle with the grease zerk then you will want # BK3-210 to include the EZ Lube washer. Then for brake assemblies the kit part # AKEBRK-7-SA that you referenced would fit and work well.
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  • How to Choose Correct Replacement Bearing Kit for a 7K Dexter Axle
    There are 2 possible bearing kit options for your 7K Dexter Axles and it all depends on what grease seal inner diameter you need: - Bearing Kit # BK3-210 (2.125" ID) - Bearing Kit # BK3-200 (2.250" ID) Aside from that both kits have the same bearings so it really does boil down to the size of the grease seal. Just pull a hub and either measure the inner diameter of the grease seal or the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides and that will tell you which kit you need.
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  • Bearing Kit For 2016 Heartland Cyclone 4200
    We have the exact kit you need to replace your bearings, races, and grease seal on your 2016 Heartland Cyclone 4200, which is the following: - Bearing Kit # BK3-200 This kit is for one hub, so if you need to replace the bearings and seals on multiple hubs, just be sure to order the correct quantity. And then for grease I recommend the LubriMatic Grease # L11380 with Bearing Packer # ALL647646.
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter SLR Axle
    There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. You will need to remove the hub and measure the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to see which kit you would need.
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