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  1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Stealth Hitches
  3. 2 Inch Hitch
  4. 6000 lbs GTW
  5. Completely Hidden
  6. 600 lbs TW
Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2"

Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2"

Item # SH52VR
Our Price: $967.00
Trailer Hitch

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Tow your small trailer with this completely hidden trailer hitch. Remove the ball mount for a fully concealed look when you're not towing. Use the included receiver attachment to mount a bike rack or cargo carrier. Trailer wiring included. Great Prices for the best trailer hitch from Stealth Hitches. Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2" part number SH52VR can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Stealth Hitches Trailer Hitch - SH52VR

  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 6000 lbs GTW
  • Completely Hidden
  • Stealth Hitches
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Tow your small trailer with this completely hidden trailer hitch. Remove the ball mount for a fully concealed look when you're not towing. Use the included receiver attachment to mount a bike rack or cargo carrier. Trailer wiring included.


  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer, carry a bike rack, or haul a cargo carrier with your vehicle
    • Insert included ball mount to tow a small trailer
    • Attach included receiver to mount a bike rack or cargo carrier
  • Totally hidden design offers a clean, from-the-factory look
    • Cross tube is concealed behind your rear bumper
    • Receiver or ball mount detach with no tools and can be stowed away when not in use
  • Sturdy center block allows secure mounting and easy removal of attachments
    • Tight tolerances prevent jarring back-and-forth movement when you're starting and stopping
    • Integrated lock protects the attachment from theft
    • Durable stainless steel construction resists corrosion
  • Hitch won't affect ground clearance or block your trunk's foot-access sensor
  • Simple, bolt-on installation - no drilling or welding required
    • Uses existing connection points to protect your vehicle's crumple zones
  • Black powder coat finish offers superior rust protection
  • Meets SAE J684 towing safety regulations
  • 7-Way, blade-style connector mounts beneath hitch to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Connects directly to battery to avoid overloading vehicle's electrical system
  • Made in the USA


  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Maximum gross trailer weight: 6,000 lbs
  • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
  • Not rated for weight distribution systems
  • Ball size: 2"
  • Ball hole diameter: 1"
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Note: The included receiver attachment is only for hitch-mounted accessories and cannot be used for towing. To tow with this hitch, you must use the included ball mount attachment.

This Stealth Hitches trailer hitch includes everything you need to hook up your trailer for towing. The ball mount pops into the hitch's center block so you can attach your trailer's coupler to the hitch ball. The wiring harness lets you power your trailer's lights. And the safety chain loops let you attach your trailer's safety chains. A receiver attachment is included as well for those times you need to use a bike rack or cargo carrier instead of towing your trailer. This all-in-1 solution saves you the headache of scrambling for missing parts, so you can get on the road faster than ever.

Completely Hidden Design

Nothing can ruin the clean, stylish look of your vehicle like a giant piece of metal bolted beneath the bumper. Luckily, with the Stealth Hitches trailer hitch receiver, you never have to worry about messing up your vehicle's lines.

hitch in use comparison

This hitch installs behind your bumper, keeping the cross tube concealed and leaving only the ball mount visible. Even better, the ball mount can be easily removed from the cross tube when it's not in use, so you won't see any trace of the hitch. This means that you can retain that clean, from-the-factory look for your ride, while still being able to tow your trailer on the next family road trip.

This hitch also comes with a removable 2" square receiver, which can be used to mount any variety of hitch accessories, like your bike rack or cargo carrier.

Simple Set Up

Both the ball mount attachment and receiver attachment can be installed and removed in seconds with no tools required. Simply pop the selected attachment's base up into the stainless steel block at the center of the hitch until it automatically latches in place.

center block locking

Be sure to then press the lock on the side of the block to fully secure the attachment. When you're finished hauling, use the included key to unlock the latch. Then turn the handle on the block clockwise and remove the attachment. You can stow the attachments in a safe place like your vehicle's rear cargo area, or you can use a convenient carrying case (391CASEC - sold separately).

hitch plug and center block

And when you're not using an attachment, the included hitch plug covers the center block's opening to protect the hitch's body from dirt and debris.

Wiring Installation


The included wiring splices into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located in your rear cargo area, on the driver's and passenger's side. Once you've made all of the necessary connections, insert the provided fuse into the in-line fuse holder.

Once installation is complete, the 7-way connector will mount beneath your hitch. A mounting bracket is included to attach the connector to your hitch.

7 way connector on hitch

It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 7-way connector itself - to help prevent corrosion. Technical Support

At we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it, and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.

SHR31030 Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

SHT25011 Towing Kit w/ Ball Mount and Trailer Wiring for Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - 2" Ball

Installation Details SH52VR Installation instructionsAlternate Instructions SH52VR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

  • 2015 - 2018 BMW X5 M performance models only

Video of Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver withTowing Kit Installation - 2017 BMW X5

Hi there, BMW owners. Today on your 2017 BMW X5 M Sport, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install Stealth Hitches Full Towing Package and this what our stealth hitch looks like when it's installed. And you're probably wondering, "Well, it's awfully stealthy because I don't see anything." And that's because the crossbar here is completely hidden behind our fascia. And the bottom here is an attachment where we can either put in our receiver end or if you got the full tow package, you can put your drawbar in and do some towing.Here you can see our components. We have the full tow package installed, which is going to include safety cable loops as well as a 7-pole connector to hook up your electrical. If you've got just the base hitch without the tow package, you won't get the loops or the electrical.

And it's only going to come with your receiver end here, which is just designed for accessories. This receiver end is not designed for towing. When you're ready to use it, you can pull out the rubber plug. We've got our lock over here. You want to make sure it is unlocked.Currently it's unlocked.

We can slide our component up until it clicks into place. Once you got your accessory installed, it is recommended to lock it down. I'm not going to be locking it down for demonstration purposes, but to lock it, you just push the lock pad in. This is great for all of your accessories, such as bike racks and cargo carriers. It does use a standard five eighths inch hitch pin and clip.

Now one doesn't come included with the salvage, but we've got plenty available here at receiver here offers a 600-pound tongue weight and that's the force going down. And this is going to be components that are going to be bouncing up and down here at the back. And with 600 pounds, you could easily have a four bike platform rack or the largest cargo carrier that we have here at fully loaded up to the max. Also, got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on your accessories. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the edge of our rear bumper, it measures about one inch.

And that's going to be important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting our bumper.And from the ground to the top inside edge of our receiver tube, it measures about 14 inches. And this is important when determining, if you need to drop a rise or raised shank on any of your accessories. Now, if you've got the full tow package and you want to pull a trailer, you're going to need to put your drawbar in. To do that, this component here is going to be removed. And there's a handle up here on top. Now we talked about i before if you have it locked, you need to unlock it. So we've already got ours unlocked. We're going to twist our handle here and it's going to pop right out of there.We can then take our drawbar, which comes included with your hitch. If you've got the full tow package, it's just going to slide up in there so that it clicks into place just like with our receiver at. Now, once again, you want to make sure you lock this down before using it. Our drawbar offers 600 pounds of tongue weight, just like our receiver. And it has an 8,000-pound gross towing capacity, which is how much that it can pull behind it. It features a raised shank on the drawbar and a two inch ball that comes included with it.Now you will have to attach this. So you want to make sure you've got a torque wrench that can go up to at least 250 pounds. Also included with your full tow package, you're going to get a 7-pole connector here at the back. So that way you can light up your trailer. Because you want to make sure that your legal when you're hauling your trailer and this way we can have all the necessary lighting. And it does provide you with all the connections. So if you want to add a brake controller, you can do so using the wiring that comes included with this.Now the brake controller does not come included. So right now it just basically has its basic lighting functionalities, but the power circuit does work as well. There's a lot of times you're going to be just hauling a smaller trailer. And a lot of those just have 4-pole flat trailer connectors. So included with your hitch here if you've got the tow package, you're going to receive an adapter that has your 4-pole flat connection there and your 7-pole here. So you can just plug it right in and then you've got your 4-pole.Now that we've gone over some of the features of our hitch, why don't you follow along with me in the shop and I'll show you how to get it installed. You do want to set aside some time for this one because it is going to be a little lengthy. We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle by removing all the carpet and things that you've got back in here, as well as the frame. We can then remove our access panels from each side, they just simply pull up.Our tail light assembly is located right here. We're going to remove the electrical connector by pressing in on the release tab and pulling it out. And then we're going to remove the two nuts located here with an eight millimeter socket. Once you've got both nuts removed on this side, we're going to disconnect the connector and remove the nuts located on the other side as well. We can then remove our tail light assembly. It just pulls directly rearward to assist you with it. You can use a plastic trim tool. You just kind of go in between the headlight there and just have a good pop it out and then we're just going to set it aside. We're going to do the same thing over on the other side.With your tail lights out of the way, you're going to reveal a bolt here that we're going to remove with an eight millimeter socket. Here's one on the other side, we're going to remove that one as well. We'll now come to our wheel well Here and there are three rivets that we're going to drill out. You can use a three 16th bit to drill out the center. And just like that it's going to come out of there. And we're going to do the same thing with the remaining two on this side and the same three over on the other side.We can now pull our trim piece back on each side. You want to pull outward on it and then using a plastic trim panel tool, there's going to be little tabs in here. Just kind of work your trim panel tool in there to release these pads. As you're pulling outward, it will pop the tab and it'll come out and you can see the little tab there. It can be difficult to determine where the tabs are, so you just kind of want to use your plastic trim tool in a couple of different spots until you find that actual tab.Once you've got it unloose, what I like to do is just take a rag or a shop towel or whatever you've got laying around, something very soft. Just kind of fold up like that and then you can stick it right in here, just like that. And that'll hold it away from your fascia, making it easier to get the fascia removed. We're going to do the same thing over on the other side. With our trim out of the way, we can once again take our eight millimeter socket and remove the bolt located behind it.We can now try out our reflector. There is a little tab on the inside. So I'm reaching back behind the bumper. You can't really see the tab, but if you feel around, you'll be able to feel it. And then you can just push in on that tab while putting some pressure here with a plastic trim panel tool. And you can see this as a tab that I was pushing on right there. We're going to the same thing over on the other side to remove that one. Behind your reflector, you'll have a bolt that we're going to remove with an eight millimeter socket.We'll do the same thing with the other side. We'll then remove the six bolts from the bottom of the fascia. There's going to be three on each side that we're going to take out with our eight millimeter socket. We can now start removing our fascia. We're just going to pull outward on it, releasing it from the clips. We've got our plastic trim panel tool here, because if we are putting a little bit of it seems like excessive pressure and it's not coming off, you just want to reach in there with your plastic trim panel tool and pop out the clips.You can see here, this one wants to be a little stubborn. So this is where we'll use our trim panel tool to get that released. Once we get here to the back of our light, this is kind of the point where I like to stop and then go release the other side. We're now towards the center and this is where things get a little bit tricky because you have your tailgate open. You can't really see or access the clips that you need to access. And if your tailgate's closed, you also can't access those clips.So you need to keep it in a mid position. So we can see these clips here as we're taking our fascia off. So we're going to grab down here at the bottom of the fascia and we're going to just kind of lift up and rearward, making sure that we're fully removed on our sides there. And once you've got it released from all those clips, you want to be careful and slowly bring it away. But you are going to have an electric connector over here on our passenger side, If you're having a difficult time getting the connector released, one of the things you can do to make it easier to get it removed is to use a pick or something extremely small to pry up on the tab.Because this you press down and it's supposed to release, but on these really small connectors, they really just don't work very well. So sometimes it's easier to just assist it by popping that up. Because you also have one over here on the other side, that's going to fight you as well. We can then fully remove our fascia, set aside where it won't get damaged. We need to remove all this plastic fascia attachments where your fascia is attached here, all of this has got to get out of our way.So we're going to disconnect the electrical connector here. Slide off your connector here, set those aside and then there's two bolts here. And there's one located here and here. We're going to use a 10 millimeter socket to remove these. Now we've got all of the bolts removed, we can begin removing it. There are going to be a couple of clips that we need to release as we're bringing it outward. You can see there's one here towards the center submission. We just need to release this and pop it up.And we're just going to set it aside now. We need to remove the one on the other side in the exact same way. We're going to be removing our bumper beam here. There's a wire that's attached to it. So we'll need to get that off. Just use your trim panel tool to pop that out of there. We're just going to follow this down. Anywhere it's attached to the actual beam, we need to make sure we disconnect it. We cannot remove the bumper beam. You may or may not have caps on your bolts here. If you had the caps, those just unthread. You can kind of just pull them off. If you want to reinstall the caps, you will have to trim them down.Ours doesn't have any caps on it, so we don't have to worry about it. If yours doesn't, that's great. We'll then use an 18 millimeter socket to remove these nuts. What I like to do is when taking off the top ones, the outer top one's the easiest one to get to. So since it's the easiest one to get to after removing a nut, I like to just take one and just thread it back on there a turn or two. And this will ensure that while we're removing the nut, the rest of our nuts, the whole bumper beam can't fall off on us.Now that we've got all of our hardware removed, we can just unthread those last little bit that was just on there, slide our bumper beam off. And then we're just going to set this aside. We're not going to be reinstalling it. We can now take the beam for our hitch then set it in position. You want to make sure that this little hole you see there is up towards the top. And it only really fits one way. You can't really get it wrong because the cross beam will be hitting something else. And we're going to do just like we did before. We're just going to thread on a nut in those top outer corners, and then we can reinstall the rest of the nuts that we had removed.We'll then tighten them back down. We can then go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. At this point now, we can install the attachment point for your different ends. Now, if you've got just the basic package, you're only going to have your receiver end, which is designed for accessories only. And if you do have just that package, all you would do is slide this piece up in here and secure it with the included bolt and nut.If you've got the full package, that includes your tow package with your drawbar and your vehicle wiring, then we've got a couple of additional components that we're going to be adding. And since our customer does have this, we are going to be adding these components. You'll have safety chain loops that we'll need to add. And you do get new hardware because the bolts need to be extra long to accommodate for the extra components.So if you've got the kit that doesn't come with this, you're just going to receive the shorter bolts. But if you get the full package, you'll get extra bolts. Make sure you're using the longer ones that come with that full tow package. We're going to slide a bolt through our safety chain loop. And we're going to slide that bolt through our connecting mechanism here, until it goes all the way through. We're then going to slide our other bolt through the other side here, just like that.On the other side, we're going to slide on our tow hook as well. And the nut that's towards the front of the vehicle, we can go ahead and install the nut onto that bolt. But the one here towards the rear of the vehicle, we're going to be adding our wiring adapter, which just slides on like that. And then our nut will go on. We can now go back and tighten down our hardware. With this bolt towards the rear, I recommend tightening it almost all the way down and then just waiting so you can adjust this because it needs to be straight up and down like that, but it's going to flop around in there on ya. So let's get it real close.Once you got to close, then you can finish snugging it down. We can now go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. The plastic components that we had removed from here, we can reinstall in reverse order how we removed them. There's a grommet on the passenger side just above the exhaust. You'll see one that has wires that are already passed through it. And you'll see one that has no wires passed through it. We're going to just pull out the one that doesn't have any wires passed through it so we can make a little cut and just slide our wires through.Now we've got our grommet removed, but we can make a little incision across it with a razor knife here. I like to make like an X pattern to poke my wiring through. We're going to be feeding our wiring from the inside out through that grommet hole. It's located right down here. My arms are a little bit too large to fit down in there. If you can reach down in there, great, you can skip this step. But if you are like me and you can't quite reach down in there, we're going to remove this tray here. And there's a push pin here. You want to pop up the center with your trim panel tool, and then you can remove the whole pin.There's another one on the other side that we're also going to pop up and remove. There's also a third one here towards the back in the center, we're going to pop that one up as well. Once you've got these pins removed, this compartment here, we'll just pull up out of here and we can just set that aside. And now we've got plenty of room to reach down in there. With that tray out of the way, you can easily get your hand down in there and then poke your wiring out through the hole where we had removed that grommet.Once you pull it through, if we can then take our grommet and we're just going to slide our wiring through the little slip that we had made, and then we can reinstall that grommet. At this point, we're just going to leave this here. We are still going to have to move this wiring connected up. We will eventually seal this up with some silicone, but it's best to wait until you've got everything connected, so that way you don't disturb the silicone.We can now unscrew the wiring on the other end. And this is going to have four wires here. You're going to have a red, a green, a yellow, and a brown. The red wire, we can go ahead and separate out because we will not be using the red wire with this particular vehicle here. It's not necessary. So we're just going to separate it out so we can get it out of the way. Because we are going to have to route these wires to their respective locations.We're going to start by running the yellow wire over to the other side, but it's easiest done if you get everything on tangled. We'll take our yellow wire, now we're going to begin routing it over to the driver's side. So we're going to try to keep it underneath all of these panelings. So start open up there, start feeding it. And with this panel here, you can actually just reach around and just poke it underneath as we work it across. Over here on the driver's side, you'll have a styrofoam tray. This tray just pulls up. We can set that aside so it's out of our way.We'll then poke our yellow wire down under there, keeping it all underneath and I like to keep it kind of towards the front here so that way we can get this styrofoam tray put back in place and our wiring's not going to be disrupting that. We're going to be accessing the black white wire here. So some of the little bit of electrical tape that's around it, we can just scoot that down so we can get to this wire here with the black and white stripe. We're then going to use the included quick splices to connect our yellow wire to this wire here.So we're just going to take our quick splice. You're going to poke your black and white wire between the slots on one side, and then we're going to take our yellow wire and we're going to poke this between the slots here on the other side. We can then trim off the excess once we can get it connected. So put those in there, fold over the plastic tab there and then using a pair of pliers, just squeeze it together and that'll splice the two wires. And just use your wire cutters here to trim off the excess wire.We only want to trim the yellow wire. We're now back over here on our passenger side, where we're going to hook up our green and brown wires. We're going to use quick splices, just like over on the driver's side. We're going to start with our green wire, which is going to connect to the same pin number as the other side, the wire color is going to be a black with a gray stripe on this side. And it's going to attach to the exact same way. The brown wire coming off of our modules, the next one we're going to connect.And again, we're going to route that just like we did the green one, but this one is going to connect to the gray wire with the yellow stripe over here on our passenger side. Now we've got those connected, we're then going to trim off the excess. And at this point, we can start hooking up the power to the module. Since we're not using the red wire, we just use the included zip ties to bundle that up. We can now start hooking up our power and ground wires.You're going to have a white and a black wire coming off of your module and that's what these are. Our black wire is our power wire and our white wire is our ground wire. We're going to be connecting the ground wire right to the ground stud located up here. So first we're going to kind of just get our wires lined up. Because again, we're just going to zip tie it to this factory harness when we can to make it look nice and neat. And looks like this is about the length that we want to use here.And we will attach the included ring terminal. We can then take our nut off of our ground here and we don't need to take it all the way off because we did get a split ring terminal. So we can actually just loosen it up. Route that ground wire up to here. We're just going to slide it underneath. And then we'll reinstall that nut. Our last wire we need to hook up is the power wire here. And that's going to connect to our battery underneath here. So there are five bolts on top. We're going to remove those with our eight millimeter socket.And we're just going to set that guy right out of the way. And we can actually take our yellow wire if we want, move that out of the way. Our battery is located here, we're just going to flip up the positive cover and we're going to take that black wire and we're just going to route it right on over to here. Now you do have two batteries here. We're going to be connecting the smaller one closer to the passenger side here. So we can go ahead and remove the nut here, pull that washer up as well. We can then slide our ring terminal into place, slide our washer back on top and then reinstall the nut.This ring terminal that you see here comes on the little fuse harness that comes in your kit. We're going to be attaching the black wire to the other end of this fuse harness. So now we're just going to trim off this excess black wire here, about right there. We're going to strip back our black wire and connect it to the butt connector that is pre-attached to that fuse harness. We're going to make sure we leave this fuse out because now we need to hook up the wires that we poked through our grommet and connect those to our 7-way connector at the back.We'll now need to connect to our harness here to our 7-way. So to do that, we're going to remove the screws here. There's another one on the other side. You don't have to take them completely out, but you got to take them almost all the way out in order to remove the electrical components that we need. Once you have it loose, you can see inside there. The easiest way I've found to do this is to just take your screwdriver down and poke it in the back, get a little tap, and she just pops right out of there.So we've gone ahead and routed it over towards the center. You want to give yourself some excess because of how we have to connect these wires. So we've got this section here. We need to feed the wires through this before we make our connection. So we're going to loosen up this screw here all the way. And there is a little metal clamp that comes out of there. We're just going to set those aside for now. And then we can slide our harness down inside of here. We're going to open this up until we pull it until it comes all the through.We're now going to strip back each one of these wires. We can now loosen up all the screws so we can make connections here. Now, one of the things you're going to notice is that it is labeled with colors on here. Unfortunately, the colors that are labeled on here do not match up with the colors on our harness. So the easiest way to do this is to start with our white wire because the white wire is going to match up because that's our ground wire. So we're going to look for the one that's labeled the white on here. And this one here is labeled white.So then we're going to slide the white wire right down in there, making sure not to pinch the sheeting. We only want the wire and then we're just going to tighten our screw back down. So we're just going to follow around from the ground connecting all the wires. It does match up in the diagram as far as the pattern going around, but the labels here on your connector are not going to match up.So we've got the white connection to white. We have blue connected to blue. Here it says brown, but the green wire is next after the blue. Black goes to black. Now it says green, but this is where the brown wire would go. And yellow goes to where it says red. We're then back around to white again. We have a purple wire that's going to connect to the middle for our reverse circuit. We're going to go ahead and take some dielectric grease now, we're going to apply a generous coding to the back of our connector before we slide it together to ensure that we have long lasting connections here free from corrosion.You can get dielectric grease here Go ahead and add it to your order when you get your stealth hitch. Once you've got it slid all the way in, you can tighten your screws back down. We can then put the blocking tab back in. We want the rounded edge to slide in first and then our little stud screw here and it's going to tighten down and act as a stress relief for our wiring and keep it nice and secure. We'll now take our 7-way bracket and attach it to our bracket here, using the included hardware we're just going to slide the screws through there. Follow that up with a flat washer, a star washer and a nut.Your wiring complied through the little slip there at the back. Then I'm going to go ahead and push this up in here. And you can attach your connector really however you want, but I recommend putting it so it flips forward because when you reach underneath it'll be just be a little bit easier to plug it in this direction. Now we've got everything connected, we'll head back to that fuse harness, install the included fuse. Go ahead and cap it off. And before we reinstall all of our components in reverse order of how we removed them, I recommend testing everything out to make sure it's working properly. Because it's going to not be fun if you have to take it all back apart to make a repair.Now, when you're putting everything back together, your module here does have some double-sided adhesive so we can stick it down below. And you're also going to have two extra wires here that we're not going to be hooking up because our customer doesn't have a brake controller. But if you ever wanted to add a brake controller to your BMW here, you can do so. And the wires are going to be down below so you can always just access those later. We're just going to remove our adhesive backing here, put a strip on the back side of our module.And we're just going to peel these off and we're just going to stick it down below where it's out of the way. You do want to make sure you go pretty far down because there is a compartment that we had pulled up. So we want to make sure we're not interrupting that. Once you've got your fascia and your trim put back into place, the rivets that we had drilled out, we're going to be replacing with push pins that come included with them. They just simply push into place, push in the center and it can be pretty tight to push it in the center.If you're having a real difficult time with your thumb, because it kind of hurts a little bit to push it. You can just use a pedal tool to give yourself a little more leverage. We're just going to be using this pair of fliers right here. And this way we've got a little more surface area to push it into place. We're going to repeat that for the remaining holes on this side, as well as the holes on the other side. And that completes our installation of Stealth Hitches Full Towing Package on our 2017 BMW X5 M Sport.

Customer Reviews

Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2" - SH52VR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (1 Customer Reviews)

Tow your small trailer with this completely hidden trailer hitch. Remove the ball mount for a fully concealed look when you're not towing. Use the included receiver attachment to mount a bike rack or cargo carrier. Trailer wiring included.




See what our Experts say about this Stealth Hitches Trailer Hitch

  • Can Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver SH56VR For 2017 BMW X5 M Be Used To Tow Trailer?
    The reason the Stealth Hitches Hidden Rack Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" # SH56VR for your 2017 BMW X5 M Performance Model is only rated for 600lbs tongue weight but not trailer weight is because the receiver is only designed for bike racks or cargo carriers and cannot be used for a ball mount tow a trailer. Since you cannot purchase just the tow bar without the wiring you will want to go with the Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2" # SH52VR as it...
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  • What EcoHitch Is Compatible With My 2017 BMW X5 For Towing
    I do have a solution for you. The compatible EcoHitch for your 2017 BMW X5 depends on if you have the M performance model. If you do not have the M performance model, you need the Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit - Custom Fit - 2", part # SH85VR. This trailer hitch has a maximum tongue weight of 600 lbs with the trailer hitch or 800 lbs with the ball mount. It has a maximum gross trailer weight of 8,000 lbs. With the M perfomance model you will need the Stealth...
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  • Completely Hidden Trailer Hitch With Wiring Harness For A 2017 BMW X-5 With The M-Package
    The Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit # SH48VR that you mentioned is actually not a confirmed fit for your 2017 BMW X5. Instead, I recommend taking a look at the: -Stealth Hitches Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Towing Kit # SH52VR. This trailer hitch is a confirmed fit for your 2017 BMW X5 with the M-Package, and will also come with the trailer wiring and receiver attachment. This hitch has a maximum towing capacity of 6,000lbs, a maximum tongue weight capacity...
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  • Does Stealth Hitch for 2016 BMW X5 Require Trimming Rear Bumper
    The Stealth part # SH98VR that you referenced is the hitch opening and trailer wiring add-on for the Stealth hitch # SH56VR that fits your 2016 BMW X5 which we also carry as a complete kit with part # SH52VR. This does not require trimming or cutting of the bumper fascia but the hitch body/tube does replace the rear bumper beam of the vehicle.
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  • Which Concealed Trailer Hitch for 2018 BMW X5
    Both hitches fit certain models of the 2018 BMW X5. The EcoHitch # EH44FR will fit 2018 BMW X5 models, with the exception of M performance models (will fit M sport model) that have a rear back up sensor. The EcoHitch # 306-X7265 fits 2018 X5 models without the backup sensors, except M performance models. The Stealth Hitch # SH79VR hitch you'd looked at fits all models except the M performance. For the M performance, you'd use # SH56VR. Both hitch include the receiver that's meant to...
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