1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class II
  4. 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  5. 3500 lbs GTW
  6. Custom Fit Hitch
Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

Item # DT29MR
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Trailer Hitch

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This fully welded, corrosion-resistant vehicle trailer hitch is perfect for your light-duty towing and hitch rack needs. Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry strength standards. Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4" part number DT29MR can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (5)
  • Q & A (2)
  • Videos (1)
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  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - DT29MR

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class II
  • 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  • 3500 lbs GTW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • 350 lbs TW

This fully welded, corrosion-resistant vehicle trailer hitch is perfect for your light-duty towing and hitch rack needs. Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry strength standards. Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers a-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Drawbar, pin and clip are sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
  • Rating: Class II
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 3,500 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 350 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



37134 Draw-Tite Class 2 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details DT29MR Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Draw-Tite Class II Trailer Hitch Installation - 2021 Chevrolet Trailblazer

Hi everyone. Shane here with etrailer.com. Today I have a 2021 Chevrolet Trailblazer and I want to walk you how to install the Draw-Tite class two trailer hitch receiver. Adding a hitch on your vehicle, it's gonna give you a lot of different options. Adding a class two over a class one it's gonna give you a little bit higher weight capacities, which we'll get into here in just a little bit. Putting the hitch on as I mentioned, is gonna give you a lot of different options.

Maybe you have a couple of bikes that you like to carry around and you're tired of loading them inside the vehicle. Or you don't want to get a bike rack for the top of your roof because you have to lift the bikes up each time to load them and unload them. Adding a hitch is gonna be able to give you a spot to put a bike rack on the back and make it much easier for that. Maybe you want to put a cargo carrier on it, get some stuff from inside put it outside and make a little bit more room for your passengers. Or maybe you want to pull a small trailer.

This is what a hitch is gonna look like when it's on the vehicle. You can see the cross tube is completely hidden behind the fascia. The only thing we can really see is our receiver tube. It's gonna be a steel construction, black powder coat finish. So it's gonna hold up really well against rust and corrosion.

Our hitch pin hole, which is here, it's gonna be half inch in diameter. It's gonna take a standard half-inch hitch pin. Hitch pin and clip does not come with this hitch, however can be found here at Etrailer. We're gonna have rolled steel safety chain loops. You can see very large openings that will accommodate different size safety chain hooks.

Now I'm gonna give you a few weight capacities and measurements to help you when deciding on any of your hitch-mounted accessories. From the center of our hitch pin hole to the outermost part of our fascia is gonna be about six inches. The number's important for any of your hitch-mounted accessories like bike racks and cargo carriers that are gonna fold up. You want to make sure they're not gonna make contact. From the ground to the top innermost part of the receiver tube is about 12 inches. Keep that number in mind for any of your hitch-mounted accessories that may require a little bit more ground clearance. As far as our weight capacities go, we're gonna have a 350 pound maximum weight which is the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube. We're gonna have a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight which is the trailer plus the load included. I always recommend checking the owner's manual of the vehicle, make sure the vehicle can withstand that amount of weight, and you go with the lowest number between the vehicle and the hitch. One thing I will recommend is if you're adding a hitch on and you ever plan on towing a trailer, I recommend adding wiring. There are different options you can find on our website by checking our fit guide. The one that I highly recommend it's gonna be at the Tekonsha T1 vehicle wiring harness. It's gonna be the easiest to put in and it's gonna give you everything you need. Now that we've gone over some of the features let's walk you through how to get the hitch installed. So your installation, we need to remove our tail lights. We're gonna open our hatch, we're gonna have two little panels right here on the inside, we're gonna pop those open. You can use a flat head screwdriver or trim panel tool. We're gonna take a T15 Torx bit, we're gonna remove the two screws. We're gonna take our light and we're gonna gently start to work it straight back. Then we need to disconnect the wiring. This is just the bolt down here. So we'll just turn it. Pull it out. Pull the wire out of that little clamp. Then we're gonna spin this, we're gonna pull it out and there's gonna be a small little connector in there. We're gonna push one side, that'll allow us to disconnect it. We'll set it aside somewhere safe and we'll repeat the process on the other side. And we're gonna take a T20 Torx bit, we're gonna remove, you're gonna have screw here and you're gonna have one on the other side. We need to remove both of those. And this is just below where your taillight assembly goes in, right at the corner of the rubber seal for your hatch. Then what I suggest is before we start removing anything down below or taking our fascia off, where your two body panels meet, your fascia to your fender, tape those edges so that as we're taking it off, or we're putting it back on, if these two make contact, you don't take a chance of chipping the paint. I'm just using some painters tape to help protect that a little bit. Next in each wheel low. On the backside of your tire, you're gonna have three T15 Torx head bolts that we need to remove. It's gonna require a small wrench to get in between your tire and the wheel low, to get these in the middle. Then on the bottom side, outer corner of the bottom of the fascia, you're gonna take your T15 Torx bit, you're gonna remove that one screw. As it's gonna be on each corner We're gonna take a trim panel tool or a screwdriver, we need to remove two fasteners on this side, two on the other side. We're gonna start just like that, we'll pull out the center and then pull out the base. And then we're gonna have two directly on the other side, same location. On each side, take your wheel aligner, pull it out like this. Just enough so that you can get your hand back behind here. There's little plastic clips right here where you're only gonna be removing three of them. And they're gonna be the bottom three. Closest to the bottom portion of the lower part of the fascia. They're gonna look like this. You'll notice there's kind of two wings that kind of comes to a point. The two bottom edges, you want to push those together to get that clip to push through the hole. So you're gonna reach up, squeeze them as much as you can with your fingers. If you can get it out with your fingers, more power to you. If you can't, squeeze it enough to get this edge of the fascia, just to pop out enough, take a trim panel tool stick it in there and then pop it out. You're gonna pull down on this lower portion of this fascia to get it past this bottom edge. Now again, as I mentioned, there's only three of these little fasteners that you want to remove here or that you want to pull out. If you go any further, you're gonna have a hard time getting that trim panel piece back into place. Then we're gonna gently pull out on the trim piece. We're gonna have two screws or two bolts we need to remove. We're gonna take a seven millimeter socket, you're gonna have one here and you're gonna have one right up here. Next we're gonna start removing our fascia. It's a good idea to have an extra set of hands, if you don't, take the box that your hitch comes in, lay it right underneath the edge of your fascia. What I would do is I'd start kind of up here on this edge, we're gonna be doing this corner right here first. We're just gonna kind of pull up to release our fascia off these little tabs, they right over here in the bottom. Since we can't pull this out all the way we have to release our fascia down here. It might be easier if you reach your hand up and push that out. Just like that. Once you get that edge loose, right here there's a little tab and it's squared off and it goes in and hooked. Take a push of that tab in as you're pulling out to release it. You can kind of see where it's moving there. That's where you need to release. And then we have wiring here and then we have wiring right there in the center. Pull up on the lock tab, push down on the black tab. And these can be a little bit difficult to get apart sometimes. There we go. We'll do the same thing to this one. There we go. And then we can set our fascia aside somewhere safe. Next, we're gonna take a 15-millimeter socket, we're gonna remove the three nuts on each side of the vehicle, each side of our bumper beam. We're gonna hold on to these because we're gonna be reinstalling them. Next, we're gonna take a razor knife. And this is like a sealer to seal this edge. We're gonna cut right along the backside edge. Once you get it trimmed, we'll take this and set it aside from that. Next, I'm gonna take a razor blade and I'm gonna get all this off. Should come off fairly easily. Next, you can either have a second set of hands, put the bumper beam over top the hitch put them both on at once, or have your bumper beam close, we're gonna set this up here. Kind of rotate it forward just enough where it catches on the threads, where it's not gonna move. We'll take our bumper beam, set it right over the top. And then we'll reinstall the nuts. Then we'll come back with our 15 millimeter socket tighten all of our hardware down. We're gonna come back and we're gonna torque it all to the specifications listed in the instructions. Next thing you need to do is once you get a torque down, you need to silicone the top edges, the side edges just how the original bumper beam was secured on. The silicone doesn't come in the kit but you can find some here at Etrailer. Next we're gonna mark out the lower portion of our fascia off center per the instructions. And then we're gonna cut out that section. I'm gonna use a rotary tool with a cutting blade. The little bars that are on there after cutting it. You can just take your knife and just kind of run down the edge and cut those off. Or you can take a file and file it off. With an extra set of hands, I'm gonna just kind of place my fascia back up into position without really connecting it. We're gonna take a look and see if we have any additional trimming that we need to do. Once you checked it, you don't have any additional trimming you have to do, you can go ahead, reconnect your cables inside or your wires inside for your sensors if you have them, and then you can reinstall your fascia in reverse order from the way you took it off. Once you have everything installed you're ready to go. That'll do it for a look at and installation on the Draw-Tite class two trailer hitch receiver on our 2021 Chevrolet Trailblazer..


Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4" - DT29MR

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (5 Customer Reviews)

This fully welded, corrosion-resistant vehicle trailer hitch is perfect for your light-duty towing and hitch rack needs. Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry strength standards. Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately.

- DT29MR
by:

Nice job Pat; great Customer Service



- DT29MR
by:
2001 Chevrolet Blazer



- DT29MR
by:
2020 Buick Encore GX



- DT29MR
by:



- DT29MR
by:


5
5

Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

  • Best Trailer Hitch Receiver For 2021 Chevy TrailBlazer
    That's a good question, and you are correct that there are a pair of trailer hitches from Draw-Tite that fit your 2021 Chevy TrailBlazer, the Class II Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver # DT29MR and the Class III Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # DT33MR. Between the two the best option is going to be the latter: - Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # DT33MR The reason this hitch is the best is because it is the only hitch that has a 2 inch receiver. This is really...
    view full answer...
  • Will the Curt C94UR Fit on a 2020 Buick Encore GX
    Yes. The Curt Class I hitch # C94UR is a confirmed fit on all trim packages of the 2020 Buick Encore, including your GX Preferred. However, you may want to consider going with the Draw-Tite # DT29MR in this case since it's a Class II hitch and will give you a little bit better choice of bike racks and towing components, since some are not rated for use on a Class I hitch. I've linked a review and installation video of the Curt hitch that you can use as a guide for either one, that you...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Alexander C
Written by:
Alexander C
Employee Shane H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y

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