Best 2010 Ford F-350 Super Duty Gooseneck Hitches

Great product, handled my 18,000lb GVW 5th Wheel with-out issues. Fast delivery and great customer service too!

product came on time, well packaged, putting unit together was fairly easy only problem we had was getting the bolts out of the truck bed so we could lift it up to slide the rails in.

Unfortunately I'm not very happy with the service. I ordered a item from your website and it premised delivered on one date and I received it 4 days after that.. I needed on the date it was promised. I called the company and basically I was told, sorry. You can pay for it to be sent back.. So now it just sits in garage, cause I found another one at a trailer store, cause I was in need of it. Also, the box it came in was all torn up and taped together.

The hitch worked out perfectly, The chain pucks are a little small for some chain hooks, there rating is fine but to safety hooks for the rating of the fifth wheel would not fit in the holes, so I was forced to use hooks with the less rating, put 20000 miles on the ball and it was fine.

The ball does not fit my truck puck, despite being made for/compatible with it based on brand, year and model. etrailer provided # for B&W directly. Customer service at both companies has been excellent so far. Awaiting replacement ball from B&W which they shipped over night express. Hoping it fits. The product itself is very heavy and appears well made and easy to use.

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Nice gooseneck ball. Fits my 2024 gmc 2500HD perfectly.

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Excellent product for my application. Iam Using a Anderson Hitch to pull a 5th wheel. Leave it in or take it out if you need more bed room I did have a trailer place install it.

Installation was very easy. Everything lined up perfectly. I did not need the inner brackets. I have a 2019 Ford f250 platinum. Absolutely amazing. Another great B and W hitch!!

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Difficult to determine installation ease, as I had the bed off my truck while installing. That made it very easy, but instructions were good and its a straightforward process. Very well made, and fit precisely on my truck. I think the B&W system is very tough to beat. Solid and dependable. And their after sale customer service is excellent.

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Great service and a great product! Quick delivery and good communication regarding status. Of course it’s a great hitch, it’s a B&W…

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Ordered in March of 2022 - installed in July of 2023 in a 2015 F350. Received boxes after a reasonable few days of shipping transit. Was fortunate to be home shortly after delivery and compare the parts list to the received contents. As reviewed by others - both boxes had extensive damage and there had been an attempt by someone to re-tape the boxes with lots of clear packing tape...but 3 of the 4 pucks were missing. Due to the marginal packaging, the larger heavy parts had some paint missing, but otherwise undamaged. Contacted etrailer customer service and they were very good about responding and immediately sending the replacement pucks. Prior research? I could find no other system that allowed me to have full convenient use of the 8' bed and provide both 5th wheel carrier and goose-neck hitch capabilities that came as close to maxing the rated hauling ability of the vehicle (for a reasonable price). As always...there's no better motivation than necessity (the purchase of 5th wheel RV). I planned a full day to do the install...it took 2 1/2 days. It's not the hitch's fault, it's the preparations. Removing the bed bolts took two days. There are no instructions, or edited videos, that can prepare you for 7 out of 8 bolts that are soo seized in the nuts that they are beyond difficult to remove. These factory bolts are designed to have an interference fit through the nuts. The protective coating on the bolts and nuts is effectively scraped off during installation, and with a little corrosion, no longer function as a separable bolt and nut. I sprayed penetrant oil on all the bolt threads the evening before (not easy where some of them are located), and carefully used a Dremel tool to remove the sprayed rhino-lining covering the bolt head/washers (fortunately, whoever applied the lining had covered the torx socket on each bolt). I also used the Dremel to remove the rhino-lining from where the 5 bed holes are required (referencing measurements given in the hitch instructions) and was able to find the factory dimples indicating the exact hole locations. The next morning, I pilot drilled the dimples, checked under the bed for any possible interferences, and then patiently, with some cutting oil, slowly hole-sawed the holes in the bed (videos of this part always edit out the length of time this takes). Starting in on the bed bolts…the supplied torx bit removed the first bolt, but with difficulty. Though if the rest had come out similarly, I'd have had them all out in under 30 minutes. The supplied bit broke on the next bolt...as did 2 more impact rated bits. Neither a pneumatic impact wrench, an electric impact wrench, or a long pipe on the handle of a ½” breaker bar had any chance of turning any of the 7 remaining bolts without breaking another torx bit. There are limits to the options you have to remove seized bolts. My possibilities were: A. Weld something to the exposed head of the bolt to provide a better way to apply turning force. B. Drill the head deeper and use an "easy-out" to try to turn the bolt. C. Use a grinder to remove the head of the bolt. D. Drill the head off completely. A and B are desirable because (if successful) all of each bolt would be unthreaded from inside the bed. However, adequate welding creates heat that can damage the surrounding area (paint and linings) and has the potential to damage electrical systems of the vehicle. I broke 2 easy-outs on my first attempt of B. Grinding is possibly the easiest (if you have the right tools), but be aware that you could easily damage the bolt holes as there is considerable tension on each bolt and the bed will raise up around the bolt as you are close to having it ground off, but not sufficiently ground to be able to pass through the washer and the hole in the bed. Ultimately, what worked best for me was to drill the head completely. The bed bolts are hardened automotive class bolts and are not easy to drill. The torx socket in the bolt head provides both a guide, and a reservoir for cutting oil. I used first a 1/4" bit (to about 3/4" deep), then a 1/2", then a 3/4" bit, and a liberal amount of cutting oil for each (if you don’t have actual cutting oil…penetrating fluid or even engine oil will be much better than nothing). Once you reach the shoulder of the bolt below the head with the 3/4" bit, the entire head comes off cleanly. If you don't stay well centered while drilling, you may need to use a 7/8" bit at the last. You may have to almost stand on the drill, and drill slowly, but at least you have gravity working for you. Don't expect to get more than 2 bolts with each set of bits (you need at least four of each size unless they are very good drills, or you are adept at re-sharpening drill bits). This process requires at least some of both finesse and patience. Any of the 4 methods above are going to destroy the bolt. Fortunately, I was able to order replacement bolts (which include a washer and the clip-retainer nuts for each) for next-day delivery. Be smart, and just order them to have on hand before starting this project. All the information on the internet seems accurate about the steps necessary to raise the bed of the truck once you get the bolts unattached. Personally, I made sure to replace the fuel and DEF caps after the hoses were released from the bed (don’t allow any contaminates to get into either). Now...just because you can raise the bed, doesn't mean you can remove all the headless bolts. The enlarged shank just below the removed heads of these bolts may not all go through the holes in the truck frame. This means you have to raise the bed far enough to be able to get a grinder (thin-cut) to cut the bolt below the enlarged shank. Be sure to “block” the bed up so it is stable and safe to work under. I was able to hold the headless bolts above the truck frame with a vise-grip to get access to the smaller portion of the bolt. One of these was almost directly above the fuel tank. Without welder or grinder blankets, I used dampened towels to cover and protect the tank and hoses. Having the bed raised an extra amount made removing the pieces of the old bolts and their retainer nuts (you’ll also have to grind/cut each of the old nut retainer clips), and installing the new retainer nuts easier. After placing the under-bed parts of the hitch (all except the gooseneck hitch mount plate), I lowered the bed back down (slowly while checking for pinched hoses, wiring, or any other interferences, and installed most of the hardware loosely (for the hitch, hoses, wiring, etc). Don’t install the bed bolts yet as you may want to see down through the holes to make sure they all line up while you measure and position the bed to be sure it’s centered (relative to the truck cab) and aligned squarely on the frame. After all this unplanned preparation, the rest of the actual hitch install went quickly. Pay attention to making sure the puck locations are "square" (diagonally) by the measurements as you snug the bolts. I used a rope with one end tied to a ½” drive extension through the center of the gooseneck mount plate, up over a 2x4 across the top of the truck bed and back down through the plate to pull it up and hold it in place from below, to get washers and nuts started on the carriage bolts. It should center itself nicely into the hole in the bed. At this point, after assuring the bed was in exactly the position I wanted, I coated each of the bed bolts with anti-seize compound and installed the bolts. Once each was threaded in 5 or 6 turns with a manual ratchet, I used a pneumatic impact wrench to take them down to ‘loose-snug’. If a bolt quits turning with the pneumatic wrench, stop immediately and let it cool for a while. Use a manual wrench to back it out a ½ turn or so and then continue screwing it in with the pneumatic wrench. You don’t want one of the new bolts to seize during installation and have to take everything apart to replace it. The new bed bolts should come with specifications for final torquing. Start sequentially snugging the hitch mounting bolts, all the while checking that the pucks in the bed have the right spacing and are positioned squarely. I had to buy a new open-end wrench for the bolt heads that are inside the tubes on each side of the assembly (the head on my one ancient wrench that fit the bolt head was way too wide to reach inside the tube…a new wrench worked without modification). Do not fail to torque all the bolts to specification in the instructions. The special scalloped-edge dished washers are designed to dig in and flatten under specified torque. This keeps them from loosening and assures that all the load from your cherished RV, Horse trailer, or any attached trailer, is transferred and properly distributed to the frame of the vehicle. Dropping the spare tire is almost mandatory to properly access and torque the nuts for the gooseneck hitch plate – as is a selection of ½” drive extensions. And finally, I had to re-coat the heads and washers of the new bed bolts with something at least approximating the toughness of the existing rhino-lining. In my experience, the so-called bed liner brand-name sprays available are worthless. The only thing I found locally is “HERCULINER”. It took about 10 coats to fill up and coat over the new bed bolt heads & washers. Yes – this is a great addition to vehicles that performs like a factory installed feature. Just be aware that the process of installation might not be as simple and timely as instructions and videos would suggest. In my case…two days of additional install time (and a slight test of ability and patience) against possibly 10 years of reliable service is a small inconvenience. A lug-mounted 5th wheel carrier dropped into this newly installed under-bed multi-purpose hitch like it was “made-to-fit”. I have full use of my vehicle for many purposes with just one installed assembly. You can’t ask more than that!

Will try to keep this as real as it gets out there. 2015 F250 XLT Crew Cab 8' Bed Ordered the Reese Elite Gooseneck and Barger 90 degree wiring harness. Received the gooseneck hitch and harness quickly. Free shipping got here in two days. Item came in two boxes. The rails were poorly packaged. Box was basically open and beat to hell, leaving markings on the rails' paint. Didn't bother me, but might others. The pucks were loose in the box and were lucky they did not fall out. The second box with the ball, ball mount, harness and misc. hardware was packed so well it took about 5 minutes to take off all the staples and then each product was individually boxed inside. Wish they would treat the rail box with the same care. Instructions are ok. Used the online install video instead. The video is slightly simplified as getting the nuts on the bolts is a slight challenge for a one man install. I was able to do the entire installation by myself with the exception of the four rail-to-frame bolts. Getting these snugged up to the point of being able to torque took two people simply because the nuts are hidden on the backside of the rail...particularly the driver-side front...which is slightly behind the gas tank, but still accessible. My F250 is factory lifted 4-5" so I did not have to remove the rear wheels, nor did I have to remove the spare tire or heat shield. Lower trucks will need the rear wheels pulled. Installing the ball mounting plate took some doing. Got one bolt on then decided to actually install the ball into the plate from above pulling the plate tight below. I used vice grips to basically keep the plate mounted tight rather than trying to lift it from underneath with one had and bolt it with the other. For me the most time consuming part of the project was getting the darned bed bolts off to lift the right side. Broke the T50 bit they supplied and then two others. Finally gave up and ground off two of the remaining bolts...and ordered replacements. Tip for those doing this on their own, you may want to spray the bolts from under with PB Blaster the day before you intend to install. I forgot and the issue was likely that the bolts were rusted. The wiring harness was a breeze, although I wish a shorter version was available. (Perhaps I missed it). Had to loop/zip tie about 2-3' under the bed. Connecting between the factory connectors did require me to pull the mounting plate. Was a bit tight to just slip the new connector in. Also, working the harness thru the hole in the bed side was a bit tight. Install probably took 10 minutes after getting the holes drilled. Total install time for this slightly skilled guy was about 3-1/2 hours...after the bed bolts fiasco. Oh...and did it all with a cast on the left arm. Ha! Now to see how she tows!

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Great customer service at etrailer

The instructions suck!!!

For the price of the product, packaging was terrible, product arrived with paint missing from several large areas due to shipping damage. Box was barely intact when it arrived. Also was missing one of the large grade 8 4.25” long bolts. So after a trip to the hardware store to replace the missing bolt and buy some paint to fix the damaged finish, got it installed pretty easy.

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Excellent underbody hitch system. Installation went well once the body was off. If your installing on a late model ford you may want to be sure you have new bed bolts available. Ford says they are not reusable for some reason but it did not matter in my case. Even though I put PB rust blaster on 2 days in advance the cage nuts broke the cage and spun. Ended up having to grind the tops off to remove the body and then using some heat to custom bend a box end wrench to get into the box frame so I was able to remove the (now) studs. This was on a 4 year old truck but New England winters at work here i’m sure. Once the body was off installation was a breeze. Fit is perfect.

This is my first gooseneck hitch and so far no issues. The install took both myself and my friend about 5 hours on my 2018 F250. You definitely need a second set of hands and it's preferred if one of you did weightlifting cause the hitch plate is HEAVY!! Just make sure when reading the instructions you really look where they notated where the front of the vehicle is cause it can get a little confusing. One tip that helped us out a lot and saved our arms is before putting in the hitch plate drill the hole for the ball opening, use a jack in the bed with a ratchet strap or some kind of strong strap, put the strap through the hole of theb bed and through the hole of the hitch plate then put a metal bar or something strong that will support the hitch plate. Then take the strap and put it on the jack and jack it up. This will pull the hitch plate up to the bottom of the truck bed and allow you to bolt it in and save your arms from becoming putty.

Good hitch. Love the drop and lock ball way more than my old hide-a-goose turnover ball. Installed it myself and only had to unbolt the brake like bracket. Left spare tire and exhaust in place. Put the ball in the center piece and slid it up and had my neighbor hold it by the ball while I put the conicals and nuts on.

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Had to hit one of my rails with a 2 lb sledge just a fuzz to let the tab drop in. The locking tabs are a good idea for the pins. I put my late grandfather’s old classic padlock from his jon boat on one of the tabs. A little nostalgia.

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Well built heavy duty fit into the fifth wheel rail with no issue thanks

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Nice clean look. Most importantly didn't have to lower exhaust. centering the hitch in the bed was easy because of the template provided. Although install did take longer than what was noted, it was fairly simple. Would definitely purchase again.

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I have had a few different GN hitches over the years and this model is top notch. The installation was straight forward and the drill guide made the location of where to drill effortless. If I had to pick a place where improvement could occur, it would be the resistance of the safety chain loop springs. They ensure rattles don't occur, but getting the chain loop inside can be difficult at times. Overall the construction is very robust. The nice touches such as the rubber cap and the price point make this a great option. I would repeat the purchase.

This Curt Ball and Safety Chain Kit works perfectly for my needs. I haul a large livestock trailer often so install and removal is easy and everything feels very secure when hooked up. I've made several long haul trips with no issues with this set up. Being able to remove it and have a flat truckbed is also easy and convenient for my needs. Thank you.

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I have enjoyed and been impressed with this product so far, no complaints. It is easy to install and works great and gives me a great sense of security that my camper isn't going anywhere once hooked up!!

When I placed my order I was given the option of taking a slightly used item for a nice discount. It arrived and looks BRAND NEW! I am happy once again for the quick service and great products from etrailer.

Excellent . I love this whole unit. As a single woman I really appreciate the case to hold the hitch and tie down rings. When I need to use the gooseneck in my truck it's quick and easy to install. When I need the full bed to haul hay and bags of grain, the hitch can be stored away under the back seat in my truck. Very bpkeased with the quality.

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Seems heavy duty but the brackets hit the u-bolts and spring top plates. Curt told me I must of installed them wrong. I don't think so

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hitch itself fit good, Didn't really like the mounting design though. Kit requires one big bolt and a u bolt "Are supplied" that holds it on truck. Seems it could be made more secure with better designed mounting brackets,but overall kit fit well and is working for what i need.

Came in a timely manner, about a week from the time I ordered it to it delivered to my door step in Alaska. The hitch itself is very high quality with nice clean welds and sharp clean edges which took almost no prep work to weld in to the frame I had built for it. You could tell by looking at this that B&W uses nice welding equipment and employs quality welders. Overall very happy with this. Installed on Monroe flatbed on F-450 cab and chassis truck.

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This unit was very handy to be able to purchase and install on my Bradford Built flatbed so that I could install my B&W companion hitch with flatbed base on the truck. The welding was all fairly straight forward and didn't require much except for a few washers and a piece of flat steel for a spacer. The one down side is that the hitch pin/handle does not have any built in twist-n-lock method to lock it so the pin remains disengaged for the ball or companion assembly install like on the common B&W under truck bed assemblies I've had on several trucks. We ended up installing the pin slightly out of line so that the tip of the pin would catch on the exterior of the receiver when pulled out and then when I wanted to engage the pin just push up on the handle and press the pin back in. I do like that I can still cover the hitch hole with the cover plate as seen in the picture.

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I love my hitch . I love how I can turn it over and I can still have use of the full truck bed. I could of bought a cheaper hitch but the quality is by far better than other hitches I have owned in the past. Customer service was great after they helped me fix my ordering mistake. Very happy with my hitch.

I was very satisfied from ordering to instillation. Great people and very concerned about your satisfaction. Instructions were complete and easy to follow. Saved approximately 50% in cost. Thanks etrailer

I'm very delighted with the product and the superior service provided. My order was initially scheduled for delivery weeks into the new year. However the very helpful contact lady found my item and got it delivered to me within days. I'm so grateful. Thank you all so very much.

Purchased for a 2006 Silverado Crew Cab Duramax. Previous owner left the underbed portion of the assembly. The actual ball mount is very easy to install with detailed instructions. Plastic trim on top is sort of cheap with unreliable double sided tape from the manufacturer, which I will have to replace. I would not recommend for lifted trucks as the ball sits approx 6 inches higher than a hideaway turnover type, unless you have that much room to adjust your gooseneck trailer. Other than that, I am pleased.

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Unit installed and pulled my fifth wheel to provincetowne Mass. Unhooked and pulled the ball out and picked up some firewood. Nice flat surface. Love it. Only way to go.

Great value and durability. Self install in about 3 hours and has remained solid since then. Put in about 10k miles towing a 31 foot trailer with it.

Shipping was super fast and the Product was exactly what I was looking for. Fits flush with the bead and out of the way for anything you decide to haul. And the ball is stored in place without having to keep it somewhere else. Only issue I had was with Chevrolet. They had one of the nuts welded in crooked and I had to do some adjusting on one of the holes. Everything else was perfect. Very well made and instructions are pretty decent. You can watch a YouTube video if you have problems

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just dropping a note from ordering and delivery and installation of the b&w goose neck hitch went very smooth installation in about an hour great instructions very pleased

The Gooseneck hitch that I received had already been opened and obviously was somebody elses return. Spent over $[XX] and received someones return. It appears not to have pulled a trailer but was inserted into someones truck recepter by the visible dirt and even the rubber cover insert is dirty. Did not expect that from etrailer.

Very impressed with the quality of this product. It fits perfectly in my Ram puck system with no slop or play.