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Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit

Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit

Item # 119190KIT

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119190KIT - Plug and Lead Tekonsha Trailer Connectors
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  • Trailer Connectors
  • Vehicle End Connector
  • 4 Flat
  • Plug and Lead
  • Tekonsha
This ModuLite harness offers peace of mind by including circuit protection to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. The upgrade also includes the ability to work with PWM on vehicles. Lowest Prices for the best wiring from Tekonsha. Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit part number 119190KIT can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (237)
  • Q & A (730)
  • Videos (22)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Tekonsha Wiring - 119190KIT

This ModuLite harness offers peace of mind by including circuit protection to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. The upgrade also includes the ability to work with PWM on vehicles.


Features:

  • Short circuit protection safeguards itself and the tow vehicle against harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations
    • Automatically self-resets
  • Virtually eliminates draw on the vehicle's tail light circuit
  • Tail light circuit has been upgraded to work with vehicles using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), allowing converter to fully turn on, giving trailer lights full brightness during activation
  • Powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights directly from the tow vehicle's battery
  • Unit prevents feedback from trailer to vehicle system
  • May be used on 2- and 3-wire systems
    • When used on 2-wire systems, brake wire on harness must be grounded
    • Adapts a 3-wire system on the towing vehicle to work with a 2-wire system on the trailer
  • Will work on vehicles and trailers with either LED, incandescent, or standard bulb tail lights
  • Works with most multiplex wiring systems
  • Install kit (118151) is included to help run wire to vehicle battery


Warning: Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed:

  • Maximum stop/turn light: 4.2 amps per circuit
  • Maximum tail lights: 7.5 amps

Read vehicle's owners manual and instruction sheet for additional information.



119190KIT Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Install Kit



119190KIT Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 119190KIT Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2011 - 2019 BMW 5 Series

2006 - 2008 BMW 7 Series

2014 - 2019 Audi A4

2014 - 2019 Audi A4

2017 - 2018 Audi A4 Allroad

2008 - 2019 Audi A5

2002 - 2009 Audi A8

2018 - 2018 Toyota Avalon

2013 - 2018 Ford C-Max

2013 - 2018 Ford C-Max

2013 - 2017 Ford C-Max

2016 - 2019 Buick Cascada

2016 - 2019 Buick Cascada

2009 - 2012 Volkswagen CC

2014 - 2018 Mercedes-Benz CLA-Class

2008 - 2019 Mini Clubman

2002 - 2004 Mini Cooper

2011 - 2019 Mini Countryman

2009 - 2016 Volkswagen Eos

2009 - 2016 Volkswagen Eos

2016 - 2019 Mercedes-Benz GLE-Class

2010 - 2012 Mercedes-Benz GLK-Class

2010 - 2015 Mercedes-Benz GLK-Class

2010 - 2011 Volkswagen Golf

2010 - 2014 Volkswagen Golf

2018 - 2019 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack

2018 - 2019 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack

2007 - 2014 Volkswagen GTI

2007 - 2014 Volkswagen GTI

2017 - 2019 Lexus IS 350

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Audi Q5

Today, in our 2016 Audi Q5, we'll be installing the Tow Ready upgraded heavy duty modulite circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with install kit. Part number 119190KIT. Here's what are kit consists of. We have our modulite module itself. This will isolate our trailer wiring for motor vehicle wiring by just getting over signal from the vehicle wire it will draw direct power from the battery using these ring terminals that we can attach to the battery terminal, using this fuse holder here. We have this bundle of water that we'll make our connection from the battery to the fuse to our module. Our module gets the signal from the vehicle but takes power directly from battery, so we don't put any strain on the vehicle's electrical system.

This will also keep our trailer from back feeding into our vehicle wiring system. We have these quick taps here to make our connections in the vehicle wiring. We have our butt connector here to connect our wire to our fuse holder. We have a 15 and a 10 amp fuse we have a nice test light here to test our wires to figure which one we need to make our connection with. We have some double-sided tape to secure our module to the vehicle.

Finally, a self tapping screws so we can ground out our ring terminal here for the module to the vehicle's body. Now, we want to hook up to our trailer. All we need to do is open our hatch up, open our cover, have our wiring out and close the cover back around it. We can close our hatch. We want to hold the cable to the side of our latch right here. When we want to hook up to our trailer, we'll have our wiring easily accessible and it will store out-of-the-way when it's not in use, like we just showed.

We'll begin our installation here by opening our hatch. We'll remove our luggage cover, here, that also covers our spare tire. We'll set aside. We'll undo this large wingnut here that holds down the factory subwoofer for into our tire. We'll push down these 2 tabs, here, and unplug our subwoofer and we'll raise up the subwoofer. Set that aside as well.

Now we'll lift up on our spare tire feeding the wire out through the wheel like so. We'll remove the spare. We'll remove this tray, here, too. Set it aside. We'll pull up on the carpet here and we'll remove the door that covers our battery. Just like that. Now we'll remove these panels here on the side. Twist the knob lift out. On our hatch, we'll open the access panels that cover our connectors for our lights. We'll remove the center panel, here, as well. Turn the knob pull down and lift out. Now there's 4 225 torx screws we need to remove, one behind each taillight area. 2 more here in the center of the hatch. Now we'll take a trim panel tool, here, and separate the black portion a little bit. When you are pulling down on this panel, they are, make sure you don't touch the release button right there, so it didn't close on you. We'll separate the button by unplugging it. We're having someone help hold the panel up for us just so we can work on this easier. Take a screwdriver, here, we'll press on the tab and separate the wiring from the switch pull the wire on through and we'll plug the switchback and temporarily so we'll need to close the hatch in order to test our wiring. We'll come over here to the other side and we'll unplug the other side, too, using the screwdriver to pry up a locking tab on either side. With that separated, we can remove the hatch panel completely, now. Starting with our 4 pole flat trailer connector, here we'll feed it through this opening on the left side of the hatch and down and out through this opening here right to the side. Our green wire here from the module, this routes over to our passenger side. We'll go up here and follow the same path as the 4 pole and we are going to continue working around the inner paneling of the hatch and we'll bring it on over to our right side, where our connector is for our taillights, just like so. Now take our double-sided tape, peel off one and like so and we'll apply it to the back of our module box. With that applied, remove the other end and we are going to feed our wires, the rest of them, into the hatch and they will stick out down here. We'll push our module box up inside the hatch and then we'll place it onto the panel and press down so it's secure. This car has a rather unconventional taillight system. The way the lights work is if the rear hatch is open, the lights do not get any power and there some additional lights on the bumper. This is for emergency situation on the side of the road, if you are changing your spare tire, that way people can see the flashes being on. We need to close our hatch and test the wiring with the hatch closed. We are going to have to sit inside the hatch area while we do this. I'll press our button here to close our hatch. Make sure none of these wires get pinched we can unplug our connector, here, for our driver-side taillight. Press on the tab. With our connector unplugged, we'll take our test light, here, we'll ground it out to the negative terminal on the battery post, take our connector and we'll find out which one of our wires here is getting power with the headlights on, this controls our taillight circuit. The only one that's getting power is the blue and black wire. We'll go ahead and turn our headlights off real quick and we'll verify that wire went off with the headlights. With the headlights off, we have verified that that circuit is now dead. We are going to tap into that wire for our taillight circuit for our trailer wiring. Now we'll open our hatch to make our connections. We'll take our blue and black wire that's our taillight wire and one of our quick connects, here. We'll slide it on the wire. Now our taillight signal is run by the brown wire for our trailer, so we'll slide that in there, too. We'll squeeze the connector on down. With that done, we'll close the connector over to protect that. We've gone ahead and closed the hatch again and we've turned on our hazards, so we can find out which one of our wires functions for a turn signal. Either one of these gray wires, here, will function as our turn signal. As you can see, they both flash. Either one of those will work just fine for us. We can open up our hatch again and make our connection. Now we'll take one of our gray wires, again, there is a gray wire with a black stripe and a gray wire with a white stripe. They both get power exactly the same time, so it doesn't matter which one we choose. We'll slide one of our quick connects on just like so. Then we'll take our yellow wire and we'll install it. Then we'll crimp it down and we'll close our connector. At this point, we can plug our connector back in and slide it back onto the retaining clip that it came off of like so. Just like that. Our vehicle that we have here, today, uses the turn signals and the brake lights as one, as a combination. They aren't separate lights. This red wire, here, if we had separate brake lights, would go to the brake light wire on our vehicle. Because they are combined, we need to ground this out with our white wire. We'll remove the sticker from our wire and we'll strip off about a half-inch of insulation. Just like so. We'll twist it together and we'll folded back upon itself just like that. We'll take our small yellow ring terminal that's provided, we'll slide it onto the wire and we'll crimp it down now we'll take our provided quarter-inch self tapping screws put our ring terminal on there, and here and we'll go to a metal point, free of any wires. Right here will be good. Good. We have a nice solid ground connection now. Now we'll take our black wire, here, it's our power wire, and we'll strip off some insulation. Like so. We'll twist our wire together, here, take our provided yellow butt connector and we'll install it over the wire. We'll crimp it down. We'll take one end of our wall of black wire that's included and we'll strip off some more insulation, like that. Twist our wires together, again. We'll install it into our butt connector like so and we will crimp it down, too. Now we will wrap our butt connector up in electrical tape just to prevent any moisture, dirt or debris that could potentially into the butt connector and cause a short. Now we are going to pull back our weatherstripping here on our driver's-side we need to pull this panel back a bit to get some room. Now we're going to follow along these wires here down to the side and we'll secure our wire to our army here of the hatch, where it comes through, with a couple of ties. I'll put one there and one here near the bottom. Take our wire, we'll feed it behind this panel. Now we can reinstall our weatherstripping. Just push it back into place. Now we can reinstall our upper panel here making sure our pins go into these metal clips. Now we are going to lift the center trim piece out here. Just grab it from the bottom and pull up on it like so, to release it. Take our wire, we'll feed it on down through here until it comes out of this hole. We'll bundle it up down here for now. We can reinstall our trim panel piece here. Push it in position. Now that we have are difficult wiring routed, we can reinstall our side panel here. Just drop it into place push it in and secure the latch. With our hatch closed again, and our right turn signal turned on, we can now find out which wire's for our rights on signal. We'll undo our connector here, again. We're using our test light to shine the wire for the time signal now. We can either use the blue and gray one or the all gray. Either one of those 2 in the middle will work just fine for our turn signal wire. Now we can turn our time signal off and open our hatch back up and make our connection outside where it's easier to work with. We are going to go to our blue and gray wire here, install our quick connect onto the wire, we are going to measure off how much we're going to need of our green wire here and trim off some excess. We'll install our green wire into the connector like so and we'll crimp it on down and close our connector on up. We reinstall our connector back into the wiring for the taillight. Now we need to gain access to our positive battery terminal. Remove this cover here, set it aside. We'll remove this cover here, as well. Push on this tab and lift up. It will hinge forward like so. Now we'll measure off about how much we are going to need of our black wire, here and we'll cut off our excess. Take a wire strippers, here, strip off about a quarter inch of insulation. We'll take our fuse holder here, you may notice there is a complete circle of wire. We'll go in the middle here and we'll cut it. Take one end, here strip back about a quarter inch of insulation twist our wires together and we'll install our other yellow butt connector that's included and we'll crimp that on down. The other end of the butt connector will go to the black wire. We'll crimp that down as well. We'll make sure our connection is covered in electrical tape, again. Other end of our fuse holder, here, will strip off the end of the insulation and we'll install our medium-sized ring terminal that's included with the kit. That will get crimped as well. We are going to use a 10 millimeter socket to remove this nut here to the side of our battery post. We'll take our ring terminal come here and drop it on down like so. We'll take a flat washer that we have laying around drop it onto the stud as well, that will just give us a better contact area with our not and we'll reinstall our nut. We'll snug it down with our 10 millimeter socket again make sure our wires tucked down here to the side like so and we'll snap closed are covered here. Reinstall our plastic cover here that goes over our positive battery terminal now we'll take our included 10 amp fuse and we'll install it into our fuse holder and we'll close our cover over the fuse holder. With all of our connections made, we can begin with reassembling our hatch area. Take our wire down in here and we'll grab our plastic panel that goes in place. Take the panel, snap it into its location. Like so and we'll close the panel on down just like that. Now we can layout carpet back down. Now we'll start with our spare tire. Making sure we feed our subwoofer power wire through one of the holes in the wheel. Want to make sure the arrow that faces the front goes towards the front. Plug our subwoofer back in and we'll secure it with the wingnut. Now we can unplug our hatch close button here. Press on the tab and pull apart. Now we can reinstall our hatch close button here on our panel. Go ahead and snap it into place like so. Before I raise the panel backup, we want to take our 4 pole flat trailer connector, here, and slide it through this hole in the center of our hatch panel just like so. Now we can raise it on up, reconnect our hatch close button and our hatch light, here. All right, we got our hatch close button back in place now we'll just raise this backup and snap it into position. Now we'll reinstall our 4 screws that will hold our hatch up. We'll hold our cable out of the way and raise our panel up here. It's on a hinge, we've got to get the hinge to engage. Now we can take our wire, here, and bundle it on up for when it's not in use and it will store inside our hatch panel here just like so. We can close our door just like that and secure our latch. That's where our cable store and be out-of-the-way when we are not using our trailer. You have nothing exposed at all. We can go ahead and close our hatch, and complete our installation. Now, before we go hook up to our trailer, it's always a good idea to test your wiring to make sure your installation was successful. I'm going to use a 4 pole flat trailer tester. We have one of those available on our website as part number I26 if you would like to purchase one. I'm going to start with turning our headlights on as you can see, the red LED that corresponds to the brown wire, which is for trailer's taillight circuit is now illuminated. Now go to our left turn signal now and you can see the red LED that corresponds to the yellow wire is flashing. How do our right turn signal and then the red LED that corresponds to the green wire is flashing will turn both our turn signals off, I'll step on the brakes and as you can see, both LEDs that correspond to the yellow and green wires are on solid I step off, they go off come back on, they come back on. With all the lighting functions now verified is working, we are now ready to hook up to our trailer and have all required trailer lights working properly. That completes our installation of the Tow Ready upgraded heavy duty modulite circuit protected vehicle wiring harness with the install kit, part number 119190KIT on our 2016 Audi Q5.


Customer Reviews

Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit - 119190KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (237 Customer Reviews)

This ModuLite harness offers peace of mind by including circuit protection to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. The upgrade also includes the ability to work with PWM on vehicles.

- 119190KIT
by:
2013 BMW X3

I ordered a trailer wiring kit. The etrailier website was easy to navigate and I easily found the item I needed. The wiring kit arrived within a reasonable time. I used the installation video on the etrailer website, which made the install very easy. I recently installed the wiring kit, so I have only used it a few times but so far so good!! 587969



- 119190KIT
by:
Volkswagen Jetta

This wiring kit works great! However the wires were just a tad too short so I had to add extra wire and there were no instructions to be found anywhere on how to wire this up. I used the insctruction video for the Jetta and figured out which wires I needed (but my install was a 2 wire setup not a 3 wire) it took me 4 hours to install but it does work perfectly so it's hard for me to be too upset over the wiring. 108359



- 119190KIT
by:
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio

I had more problem with this installation, but it had nothing to do with the kit. Just the installer (me!). I think the kit is well made and the video instruction is invaluable. I put it on my iPad and took it to the car. I referred to it many, many times. I would suggest that you watch the video all the way through and make a note of the supplies and tools you will need. I had to make a couple trips out to buy various items. But I'm glad I did it myself just so I know more about my vehicle. I also want to say that the folks at eTrailer have a great website and lots of help for installation. I highly recommend them. 556837



- 119190KIT
by:

thanks for being so helpful in switching us into this heavy duty wiring harness. The service was better than all face to face places in this type of business. My installer swapped out the modules and everything worked perfectly. I can't say enough about both customer service and the tech support that we received. There should really be a sixth star (for above and beyond)! 268702


Comments

Works great... thanks.

Doug L - 01/16/2018

33174

- 119190KIT
by:
2014 Audi Q5

Kit was missing butt wire connector. Double sided tape is NOT included in kit to mount module. I thought it would be included based on their install videos. 568707



- 119190KIT
by:

Easy to install and works as advertised. 574596



- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Audi Q5

The video for this installation on a 2012 Q5 was excellent. A couple of point to add. For fishing wire, a small piece of ice maker water line works great if you cant find or don't know what aircraft tubing is. Mounting the unit in the area shown with adhesive tape on is not the easiest. I would suggest removing the panel to get a proper place to mount this correctly. The door hinge has a plastic cover that is already hiding a wiring run. If you remove this, which is easy, you can run the wire with this, cover it back up, and its completely hidden. I would suggest soldering wire to wire splices rather then butt connectors. The T connectors are still the simplest and cleanest way to splice into existing wiring. 294493



- 119190KIT
by:
2007 BMW X5

Awesome product , love it. Works perfect and not complicated to install 524803



- 119190KIT
by:
2014 Audi Q5

Was quite happy with the kit--excellent installation video for my 2104 Audi Q5 TDI Prestige. Not 5 star because: 1) the supplied test light's probe is too large to fit into the Audi plugs to test the signal, 2) the kit was missing the double stick foam tape to attach the module, and 3) the kit was missing one of the double-butt crimp connectors. I was very hesitant to use the supplied crimp splicers (bad experience for long term success before). Nonetheless I tried them. Big mistake, after firmly setting them with pliers, I gave the joint a little tug and the factory wire broke in half right at the splice (apparently the steel conducting piece severed the wire). I redid this connection and the others by soldering the new wire onto the appropriate Audi wire. I also prefer not to have loose wires running through random chassis holes. Rather than follow the video instructions to do such, I ran the wires alongside existing wire looms and used cloth tape and small wire ties to secure them against chafe or rattle. 546376



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Volkswagen Golf

Works perfectly. A little complicated to install because of the new wiring using one wire for at least two functions. The directions were clear and it worked well from the first time. 573351



- 119190KIT
by:
Victory

The product works great. The worst thing about it was that there were no instructions with it at all. I had to email etrailer and they in turn emailed me the instructions. Other that that no problems. Fast shipping and product is as advertised. I used this product on my Victory Vision so that I could pull my trailer. Below is a picture of where I placed it. It worked out best in my opinion to velcro it to the back of the saddle bag. It actually mounted right under the wiring harness of the bike that I had to tie into. 85345


Comments

Still works great. No problems at all.

Damon C - 12/18/2014

8094

- 119190KIT
by:
2010 Volkswagen Golf

I bought the 119190KIT, TK90160, and ETBC7 based on etrailer's recommendations for my 2010 VW Golf. I came into DIY trailer electronics without a clear understanding of what I needed, so I asked etrailer what would work for my car, and they put together this well-priced and high quality bundle for me. The parts arrived quickly and in good order, and using the included instructions and some videos from this site, the installation process was fairly painless. The biggest hitch for me was that the VW MKVI runs multiple modulated signals along one wire to the tail lights, so wiring for the turn signals had to be run up to the headlights instead. The kits didn't include this information, nor enough wiring to do that extra work, but it didn't set me back very much more. Great service, great products, and lots of excellent information on this site. I'll definitely be an etrailer customer for any more trailer stuff! 423912


Comments

Still going strong, its a great wiring kit.

Michael B - 08/23/2018

42679

- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Suzuki SX4

Tekonsha makes good stuff. The kit is just what I needed for this car, thanks etrailer. 559870



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 BMW X3

The product works as advertised. It was nice to have a video to watch about my car as it made it significantly easier and compared to installing the hitch on a BMW X3 it was significantly easier. Unfortunately I watched a video about a 2015 version of my car while I own a 2014. The wiring looks the same but it doesn't function the same. My mistake (I needed to do a 5 wire connection instead of 4). The only issues with the kit: would be better if the wires that connect to the brake and turn signals and battery were just a little bit longer. Also, the clips that allow you to connect to the cars wires were not sized properly (too big) and if you aren't careful you can end up cutting through a car wire with the clip inadvertently which I did on one of the wires. Not the end of the world as it's fixable but it would be nice if they included multiple clips so you could pick the right one. Finally, there was only one butt end connector and you need two. These are cheap and not sure why the kit doesn't have a few of these. 498409



- 119190KIT
by:
2018 Mercedes-Benz CLA-Class

Install on 2018 Mercedes Benz CLA250 w/LED tail lights: There were no guides I could find so I'm posting this for other etrailer customers. These are my installation notes and the kit operates correctly. There are other ways to do this, I'm sure. It isn't necessary to remove the tail lights, there is a removable piece in the trunk carpet. I removed that and the plastic trim panel in the middle. The tail lights have 10-pin connectors. On the left there are 8 wires on the right there are 7. My thought is maybe this has something to do with the european style parking lights. After probing I found this: Left Side: Turn/Brake - Yellow with White stripe Running/headlights - Black with Orange stripe There is constant power to the Green with White stripe Right Side: Turn/Brake - Light Blue with Red There is constant power to the Green with White stripe I had to splice additional wire to mount the module where I wanted it. The final connections were: Module Brown to Left Black/Orange Module Yellow to Left Yellow/White Module Green to Right Light Blue/Red Module White to Ground Module Black to Battery Module Red Terminated (unused) The positive electrical connection I made was under the hood, off the fuse box. Terminated to one of the lugs, covered with wire loom, and run into one of the cars wire bunches. The 4-wire hitch output is terminated with a CURT tester (If you put one there, you'll always know where it is when you need to troubleshoot something) This vehicle is completely covered on the bottom and running the wire can be very time consuming if you want it to look tidy. 560841



- 119190KIT
by:
Mercedes-Benz

Installed into my 2015 MB GLK350. Was initially confused on wiring as the install video on etrailer website was for a 2012 GLK and they used red wire for power, but written instructions said red wire not used and yellow was for power. After watch install on another video for a 2015 MB but different model, I got it figured out. The 2012 install video helped out with the wire routing to front of car to battery. Once installed, all worked fine. 571513



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Toyota Prius

I installed this 119190KIT into my 2015 Toyota Prius Plug-In Hybrid. I could find no review that addressed installing into a Plug-in Prius Hybrid. There were several reviews of various years of standard (non-Plug-In) Praises, but no reviews for a Plug-In. The eTrailer webpage video for 119190KIT (https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190KIT.html) has links to 4 other videos, none of which is for a Plug-In Prius (PIP), but one or more of them shows how to test and splice wires just like in the 119190kit. The video for the 2013 BMW X3 shows how to use the tester at the 2:48 mark. This tester was essential. I used it to determine which lights were connected to which wires. Do NOT rely on any videos to determine which color wire connects to which light (tail, brake, left turn, right turn). Instead, follow EXACTLY what the instructions sheet tells you. The first step was to determine which color wires in my PIP connected to which lights in the PIP’s rear tail area. When you use the tester, you MUST push the metal pointed tip directly and forcefully into the center of the plastic sheet encasing the wire. If you do not penetrate fully, you won’t get the tester’s light to come on when you press the car’s brake pedal or light switch or turn signal lever. A video that shows the internal compartments for a Prius is at this link: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2010-toyota-prius-118505.aspx It's not a Plug-In model, but it shows a lot of spots that are identical nonetheless. I found that there was not a lot of slack in the wires in the PIP’s taillight assembly, but there was enough. The video below shows a 2010 Prius and how to remove the rubber seal - at about time stamp 0:30+. A good spot to screw the ground into the "doubled sheet metal" is at 2:03+. A good segment to show putting the wires under the back side of the hatch starts at about 3:00 and runs until about 3:22+ and also at 3:30 it shows how/where the banded 4-pole wire will go into a lower compartment, to be stored until need to attach to a trailer. 3:53 - 4:41 shows running wire over to the other taillight. From 5:10 to 6:20, it shows hooking up to the battery. https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2010-toyota-prius-c56147.aspx This video shows a 2014 Prius V.... https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2014-toyota-prius-v-118610.aspx It shows the actual part that I have to connect - 118151 which includes the yellow "circle" wire.  Go to time 5:00.  It shows the yellow loop (aka, fuseholder) in the kit and how to install it at around time 5:42+ thru 6:23 and beyond shows attaching the yellow to the positve battery pole at around 6:40 to 7:00.  Shows adding fuse to fuseholder at 7:13+. At 7:30, starts to show attaching the ground wire to the "factory ground.  Through and past 9:20 shows zip-tying all wires. Here's another video that shows splicing…..with the kit’s “no-splice” connector. https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2013-toyota-prius-119147kit.aspx ....at 3:30 to  about 5:13. WARNING - you must use pliers as shown to connect two wires that the directions say to connect. You have to squeeze the pliers pretty hard to get the metal piece in the plastic quick-splice connector to go all the way through the plastic sheathing and then make contact with. The video does not emphasize that you have to squeeze the metal piece pretty hard. In fact, when I first used four quick-splicers for connecting and then tested to see if a connection was made, only one of the 4 quick-splice connectors resulted in an electrical connection. So, I had to open up the 3 connectors and press the metal piece inside the quick-splice connector real hard. So, be careful!! I have a moderate degree of experience with home electrical wiring, but none with car wiring. I just took my time and it all worked great!!! 274346


Comments

This wiring is still working perfectly after one year! Very satisfied.

Fred Y - 07/20/2017

26381

- 119190KIT
by:
2014 BMW X5

Easy to install on a 2014 X5D M sport with LED lighting package. For others attempting the install, here's the wiring that I used: Module X5 Yellow -> Right side (black/white) Brown -> Right side (purple) Red -> GROUND (same screw as the white wire) Green -> Left side (black/purple) White -> GROUND Took about an hour to install, the X5 has a great ground screw and place to store the module on the drivers side. Test light included helped make it easy to find the right wires (but, now that you have the above map, you won't need to find them if your truck is like mine). Great service from eTrailer, delivered quickly with all the parts. My only complaint is that this module doesn't look that good hanging out the back of the X5 when trailering, I knew that going in, and given the outrageous cost of the stock trailer system (1000+), this was a good compromise for me and anyone who doesn't trailer all that often. 145461


Comments

Still working great, no complaints at all. Very good product, especiallywhen youre dealing with BMWs insane pricing for the OEM tow kit!

Mike F - 08/13/2015

14229

- 119190KIT
by:
2016 BMW X3

Bought this for the 2011 BMW X3 3.5. Very easy to install; it took me around 45 minutes. I didn't even have to remove the taillights since the taillight wires pass behind the pop out panels inside the BMW. It works fine, no warning lights or other electrical problems from the BMW vehicle status monitor. The only thing you will need in additional to the kit was a metric nut to fasten the terminal to the bolt on the battery terminal (it was either a 5 or 6mm nut) and you will need to extend the green wire that goes to the right tail light. It is barely long enough to reach and I was concerned about stretching it without any slack so I added a foot to it and tie wrapped it to battery cables. (You will need a piece of 16 ga wire and 1 butt splice connector for this). 21588



- 119190KIT
by:

The wiring kit was fairly easy to install. It had less to do with the kit and more so with the tight space in the rear corner of the car and the TINY wires the car came equipped with. There are no instructions but eTrailer has an installation video for my car linked to their product page. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. What I learned was once i crimped the wire connector on, two of them didn't slice the insulation and make connection so I crimped down harder until I had a good electrical connection. Bottom line is check each connection with your DVM or the supplied lamp tester before proceeding or taping everything up. 121282


Comments

I installed the light kit a year ago and have had no problems at all.

Wes - 03/19/2015

10136

- 119190KIT
by:
Volkswagen Jetta

A module such as this is absolutely essential when trying to add a trailer lighting circuit to a modern CANbus equipped vehicle. The module itself works beautifully but I deviated from the eTrailer install video for my '13 Jetta Wagon. First, I used the 'poke-n-wrap' method with solder to attach the module's signaling wires to the vehicle wiring harness. I have a personal aversion to Scotchlok or vamp connections because they often fail with time and vibration. This method keeps the harness relatively compact and clean looking, especially if you resecure everything with cloth wiring harness tape. Second, no self drilling screws. I attached the module to the chassis with proper self adhesive tape like 3M VHB. The white ground wire is easily attached to the existing grounding lug on the left rear wheel well, so no self drilling screw there either. Don't poke holes in your chassis with self drilling screws if you can avoid it. I avoided drilling a hole in the spare tire well by running the power wire through the existing body plug in the area aft of the right rear wheel well. It's easy to remove the plug, drill a hole in it, and thread the wire through. Add a dab of black RTV to make sure it's watertight. When powering the module, the suggested method is to split the 1/4" ring terminal and stuff it under the nut that holds the positive battery terminal in place. Instead, I obtained an M6x1.25 nut and secured the fuse holder to a unused, unfused stud on the terminal block inside the underhood fuse block. When it's time to change the car's battery, the split ring will inevitably get deformed and may cause problems. This way, the positive terminal clamp only has to do one thing: hold onto the positive terminal. To bring the wiring harness outside the wagon I went a little off the deep end with a little sheet metal work and Molex MX150 connectors to make the passthrough watertight. I added etrailer 18140 and 18144 to mount the 4-way connector to the hitch so I wouldn't have to fish the wire out of the left-side trunk compartment and shut the tailgate on it every time I wanted to tow. 469706



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Volkswagen Passat

The harness works perfectly with my 2015 Honda Fit and installation was pretty solid, especially now since Honda makes interior clips easy to remove. I had trouble with the wiring at first due to having the 3 wire system, but after giving etrailer a call during the install I was walked through which colors go where (I was watching the 2014 VW Passat video where they say to make the red wire the extra ground, don't do it with the Fit! It's the brake light FYI). No instructions included, just check out the sample videos on this page for the install on other similar vehicles. We purchased the custom Drawtite hitch and wiring harness to help pull along our hot dog stand (Gnar Dog's Hot Dog Stand) in the greater Cincinnati Area. Couldn't be in business without etrailer; thanks guys! 272197



- 119190KIT
by:
2009 Mini Cooper

It took some time and trouble to figure out how this correlates to the installation video (for the Curt model, which has fewer wires). Once the right wires were identified, it was very simple and straightforward. The system works like a charm, and I've already towed a U-Haul trailer. Depending on the vehicle, I would recommend getting some 3/8" wire loom ($1.99 @ Home Depot) to protect the power wire from abrasion/cuts if you route it along your car's underbody. The included instructions (online & paper) are too generic to be useful, and the vehicle wiring codes (types of wire systems: 2-wire, 3-wire pulse, etc.) don't have a reference on the TowReady website. Moderate gripes, but some streamlining would've saved me unnecessary troubleshooting. All the parts you need are included, with extras just in case. 48370


Comments

Hey Jameel, not sure if things were different back in 2012 but for folks ready your review today, I suggestion 1/4 wire loom instead. The 3/8 diameter is larger than needed and leaves more play.

-- comment by: Richard - 06/02/2014

4582

- 119190KIT
by:
2013 Volkswagen Tiguan

The trailer lighting kit I purchased from ETrailer was an easy installation and works as advertised. There were only two things that could have been better. The kit was missing one butt connector and the green wire was a bit too short for my installation on a 2013 VW Tiguan, so I had to extend it. Although I have many DMMs and other test gear, I found the included tester to be my choice of testers for this installation. It does the job well and is easy to use. Just remember to cup your hand over it if you are working in direct sunlight or you may not see it turn on. The only recommendation I have for the manufacturer is that a list of vehicles be included in the installation instructions so that the proper wiring setup is easier to identify. It wasn't too hard to figure out, but I would have felt a lot better knowing I made the correct choice before I started making permanent connections. It helps to use a set of ramps on the left (driver's side) front and rear wheels to have enough room under the vehicle to run the long power lead. Installation did take a few hours, but I didn't rush the job and I also was talking to a neighbor as I did the work. Watching the installation video was very helpful. I picked up quite a few tips and knew exactly what to expect. If you have a Tiguan, use the VW-supplied tool to help remove the rear lights. The tool helps to pull a cover off of each light to gain access to the bolts holding the lamp assembly in place. Once you have the bolts out, pull the light assembly straight back while wiggling it to free it from the white retainer. To remove the electrical connector, turn the lamp assembly upside down and pull out the red part until it stops. Next, depress the clip just in front of the red sliding piece to remove the power connector from the lamp assembly. Sorry, I should have taken photos. In summary, I highly recommend this lighting kit if you have LED taillights. It was easy to install and it works great! 145377


Comments

I have a 2014 Tiguan and am considering this wiring option vs. the expensive stock set up. I am wondering if you get any check lights on the dash when using this set up with a trailer? Thanks!

-- comment by: Matt A - 10/30/2014

7525

- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Volkswagen Golf

I would have rated this better if good installation instructions were provided for my car model. If you're going to connect the 119190/119191 kit to a 2012 VW Golf, like mine, you will find that the correct wiring is from the ModuLite catalog Vehicle Code BM-1 3-Wire System (such as Mercedes R-class) - NOT the B 3-Wire System as listed in the ModuLite catalog. My VW Golf uses the same bulbs for taillights (providing 6 volts) and brake lights (providing 12volts). To make the converter work correctly, ground the brown "tail light" wire and connect the red "stop" wire to the VW wire that lights the tail light. In the three pin taillight connector (right or left side of the car) the middle wire is a ground, one outside wire is the turn signal and the opposite outside wire is the tail/brake light. Connect the red wire to the wire that is NOT the turn signal. If you follow the ModuLite B 3-wire suggestion and connect the red wire to ground and the brown wire to the VW tail light wire, the turn signals and brake lights seem to work correctly during the day (when you don't have the taillights on) but when you turn on the taillights, you don't get brake lights when you apply the brakes. 152555


Comments

Great review. Thanks! I also have a 2012 Golf TDI and followed your instructions. This saved me a ton of time since I literally did exactly what you stated and it worked out great. Thanks again.

-- comment by: Kamil - 02/07/2015

9355

- 119190KIT
by:
2013 Volkswagen Tiguan

The kit worked well. Installation worked as directed by Brandon on my 2013 Volkswagen Tiguan on the following site http://www.etrailer.com/question-47503.html would recommend this kit. I did have to increase the length of the green wire but only because I found that on the Tiguan the ideal installation location is in the drivers side panel behind the jack, which required me to run the green all the way across the car. I was able to easily remove trim panels and run the power up to the battery area. Was missing the yellow butt connector but had some laying around. The hitch installation was a breeze as well. 83359


Comments

When you passed inside of car the power to the battery area, where did you pass the wiring near motor area?

-- comment by: Robert L - 06/11/2013

1625

I have sent an email to Bill letting him know about your question. Keep an eye on his product review. If he has any more information to add it will appear with his original review.

-- Patrick B - 6/12/2013

Comments

I used a coat hanger and after some trial and error was able to push the coat hanger through on the under side of the main wiring harness from inside vehicle. I had to keep the coat hanger right next to the wiring and poked around until it went through. Once it was through I pushed it in enough that you could see it in engine compartment. I attached wire with electrical tape and pulled it through. I then ran wiring around battery box on drivers side of car. It was easy to route around areas that get hot.

-- comment by: Bill H - 06/12/2013

1629

Thanks for the follow up. Great info to have.

-- Patrick B - 6/12/2013


- 119190KIT
by:

Harness and towing kit were easy to install. Had to dremel the bumper for the hitch to fit. Wiring was fairly simple, as they have a video online. Great company to order from. 641744



- 119190KIT
by:

Excellent quantity. Directions great for hitch which included my variation on hybrid RX450h. The Electrical harness kit directions could have been better, they were pretty generic and where not specific for my RX450h. However they were good generic directions, just feel they should be more model specific. I didn’t need the approximately 10 feet of wire for battery hot wire since the hybrid battery is in the rear. Prefer a harness that is a plug and play type with no splicing connections. However, the kit did include more than what I needed, even a test light prob which I have in my tool box. A person using this kit needs a good automotive technical skill level. Kit directions if specific could even describe required panel removal on vehicle. BI had to figure that out which can be tricky. Especially when OEMs have such a array of fastener types and locations for wires underneath interior panels. All in all, good quality products from etrailer would definitely order again from e-trailer. Wish I took pictures but too late, everything is installed and reassembled. 640652


Comments

Unfortunately, this is not a vehicle specific item that could fit hundreds of different vehicles. Because of this, it wouldnt be feasible for the manufacturer to provide specific instructions for every vehicle this harness could be used on.

-- Mike L - 05/14/2019

55249

- 119190KIT
by:

It appears that the VW Passat, 2015 in my case has an issue with many of the plug and play trailer wiring kits. Tekonsha tech support advises that many people experience issues with the 118646 kit as I did. Turn and brake lights work fine but their no trailer lights. Tekonsha recommends that for the Passat that you use the 119190 Kit. This kit requires you to physically locate the specific wires (left and right turn signal wires and the car's running light wire and tap into them. You still run the system with a separate power line through their black box. The 119190 kit takes maybe twice as long to install but it works perfectly. I have used this style kit on several VW's I have owned over the years. BTW if VW doesn't provide a factory trailer hitch, then you know you will experience issues with a plug and play aftermarket kit. 640277



- 119190KIT
by:

This kit was great and functions exactly as intended. With the help of the online video it was easy to install, even for people without any electrical knowledge. My only advice is: 1) watch the video and the hitch installation video at the same time. This will help you plan ahead and not re-install parts during the hitch installation, that will need to be removed for the harness installation 2) be VERY careful about selecting the right wires, by using the testing tool eTrailer provides. In the install video for my BMW X5, the technician referenced a yellow and black wire when making the initial connection. He later goes on to make a separate connection for a black and yellow wire. To the novice they look nearly identical. I confused the two wires and had to re-do this, but would not have been an issue if I had understood the distinction and used the testing tool, as recommended in the instructions 3) be careful about placing all connectors so that they face in the same direction. Does not impact function, but makes for a neater install when complete. I could not be happier about how this project turned out, and credit etrailer with all of the success. It has a very OEM look, and etrailer made the entire project doable for me through their great suite of videos and excellent Customer service. I wish every retailer could be this good! 636884



- 119190KIT
by:

This purchase, along with customer service/technical help from etrailer saved me from purchasing a $1,000 tipm. 635302



- 119190KIT
by:

Love the Draw-Tite hitch I installed on my 2007 BMW X3. Great fit, nice quality, good instructions, very good price. 622055



- 119190KIT
by:

Great looking hitch, a few hours without rushing. Bolted right up and ready to go fish! 619574



- 119190KIT
by:

EVERY THING AS EXPECTED 616609



- 119190KIT
by:

Great product, just as described. Super fast shipping!!! 612243



- 119190KIT
by:

Very pleased. 610542



- 119190KIT
by:

I installed this kit on my 2015 BMW X5 xdrive35i. The instructions and video suggested using the compartment on the driver side and laying the connector and wiring in the center storage compartment when not in use. I installed the kit in the passenger side compartment and used a large un used grommet in that well to route the flat 4 connector to the receiver. The connector stores in the receiver back end when not in use. The wiring for the driver turn routes through the passenger side, so I tapped the left turn lead, right turn lead and tail lt lead all in that compartment. All neat and tidy. The battery tap was an easy route and connect as well. All works and no codes thrown as a result. 608216



- 119190KIT
by:
2016 BMW X5

Overall Kit is good. Some of the wires on the kit need to be longer by about 12 inches as it results in having adequate length to trim. Also the kit should include butt splice connectors instead of the blue crimp (no strip connectors). These type do not work as the OEM wire is to small to work effectively with this style of connector. The power connector eyelets are too big for the battery terminals. Overall good kit. Make the changes and this would be an excellent kit. 607592


Comments

This is not a vehicle-specific kit that will work right out of the box with most vehicles. However as you found, there will be a little necessary modification on some vehicles.

-- Mike L - 02/25/2019

49866

- 119190KIT
by:
2013 Mercedes-Benz GLK-Class

Super Fast Delivery. Package as expected. I haven't installed it yet but plan to in the next few days. 606650



- 119190KIT
by:

Works like a charm! Easy to install. Highly Recommend. 596831



- 119190KIT
by:

Product is not that good. Flat connector to the trailer is hard to plug in and out. I will need to replace it soon. 580070



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 BMW X5

Read all instructions several times and watch any videos even closely related to your vehicle. There were several discrepancies in the instructions and what was received. First, two things missing - One butt splicer and the double stick tape (someone else commented on the same thing). Second, there were two sets of instructions. One said to used the included 10 amp fuse, the other directions said to use the enclosed 15 amp fuse and both fuses were included. Third, the instructions say "Unused input wired may be secured with spade terminal and attached to ground." One of the videos, and etrailer online instructions say the unused input wire (in my case the red stop wire) MUST be attached to ground. 579760



- 119190KIT
by:

Never had a problem since the install! 579405



- 119190KIT
by:
2009 BMW X5

Exactly what I needed for my 2009 BMW x5...found a video on youtube and it installed in about 1/2 hour delivery timing was great 578263



- 119190KIT
by:
2002 BMW X5

Installation was VERY SIMPLE and straightfoward, especially sinse the installation video etrailer provided was on a 2002 e53 x5 and thats what I imstalled my harness on. Everything works great and I will most definitely be buying through etrailer again. Shipping was fast also! 564203



- 119190KIT
by:
2014 Porsche Cayenne

Product works fine and was pretty easy to install. I did order the product on a Monday with 2 day shipping and did not get it until Thursday. 559369



- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Audi Q5

The only thing i didn't like was where the power module for the trailer lights is located by following the DIY. I installed it next to the battery since the wiring for the tail lights is just to the right on the fuse box. There is a grommet in the battery area that goes out tight to the hitch location as well. Looks a a lot better when towing and the wiring can be tucked into the back of the hitch when not in use. 551679



- 119190KIT
by:
1999 Mitsubishi-Fuso FE

Using on a Mitsubishi FUSO FE. I feel confident it will work. 545222



- 119190KIT
by:
2010 Audi Q5

Works great. The online install video made it doable. The only reason I gave it a 4 is that the wire taps included in the kit are big for the small wires on my Audi. The left connection did not work and I had to remove it and solder the connection. (Pain) The double back tape to stick the control unit to the door was also missing. 544581



- 119190KIT
by:
2014 BMW X3

Have had this trailer wiring kit for one year now and it's been excellent with no issues. Thanks. 542433


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  • Bolting on an aftermarket hitch like Curt 2-inch hitch # C13136 on your 2013 Audi Q5 will not affect your car's computer but in some instances installing a wiring harness will. Often the effect is simply a code appearing on the dash. We do have both hardwired 4-pole kits like # 119190KIT and # C59236 but we also have the ZCI Zero Contact wiring kit # 119250KIT that requires no cutting or splicing of wires, hence no permanent alterations to the car. Often owners of nicer import vehicles,...
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