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Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4-Pole Flat, Hardwire Kit, and Circuit Tester

Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4-Pole Flat, Hardwire Kit, and Circuit Tester

Item # 119179KIT

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119179KIT - 4 Flat Tekonsha Trailer Connectors
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  • Trailer Connectors
  • Vehicle End Connector
  • 4 Flat
  • Plug and Lead
  • Tekonsha
This ModuLite Ultra Protector with integrated circuit and overload protection safeguards both itself and the tow vehicle against electrical shorts or mis-wiring situations. Lowest Prices for the best wiring from Tekonsha. Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4-Pole Flat, Hardwire Kit, and Circuit Tester part number 119179KIT can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (288)
  • Q & A (746)
  • Videos (21)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Tekonsha Wiring - 119179KIT

This ModuLite Ultra Protector with integrated circuit and overload protection safeguards both itself and the tow vehicle against electrical shorts or mis-wiring situations.


Features:

  • Re-settable short circuit & overload protection safeguards itself and the tow vehicle against harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations
    • Automatically resets
  • Virtually eliminates draw on the vehicle's tail light circuit
  • Tail light circuit has been upgraded to work with vehicles using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), allowing converter to fully turn on, giving trailer lights full brightness during activation
  • Powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights directly from the tow vehicle's battery
  • Unit prevents feedback from trailer to vehicle system
  • May be used on 2- and 3- wire systems
    • When used on 2-wire systems, brake wire on harness must be grounded
    • Adapts a 3-wire system on the towing vehicle to work with a 2-wire system on the trailer
  • Will work on vehicles and trailers with either LED, incandescent, or standard bulb tail lights
  • Works with most multiplex wiring systems


Included with Hardwire Kit:

  • Modulite Wiring Harness (119179)
  • Modulite Install Kit (118151)
    • 20' of 12 gauge wire, ring terminals, and inline fuse for battery connection
  • Circuit tester
    • To help find wires behind vehicle tail lights to gather signals
  • (5) Quick splice wiring connectors
    • Makes tapping into wires quick and easy
  • Integrated 4-Pole Cover
    • Protects 4-pole connector from the elements and reduces dirt, debris and corrosion for trouble-free use


119179KIT Upgraded Circuit Protected Modulite with 4 Pole Harness and Hardwire Kit - Includes Testers



119179KIT Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 119179KIT Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

1984 - 2011 BMW 3 Series

1987 - 1995 Toyota 4Runner

2019 - 2019 Fiat 500

2004 - 2005 BMW 6 Series

1984 - 1991 Pontiac 6000

1983 - 1992 Mazda 626

1985 - 1992 Volvo 740 Series

1984 - 1990 Volvo 760 Series

1988 - 1990 Volvo 780 Series

1993 - 1997 Volvo 850 Series

2005 - 2006 Saab 9-2X

2006 - 2011 Saab 9-3

1999 - 2009 Saab 9-5

1999 - 2009 Saab 9-5

1981 - 1998 Saab 900

1989 - 1998 Saab 9000

1991 - 1995 Volvo 940 Series

1991 - 1997 Volvo 960 Series

2015 - 2015 Audi A3

2006 - 2015 Audi A3

2005 - 2011 Audi A6

1998 - 2011 Audi A6

1989 - 1995 Plymouth Acclaim

1989 - 1995 Plymouth Acclaim

2002 - 2006 Nissan Altima

2002 - 2006 Nissan Altima

2008 - 2009 Saturn Astra

2000 - 2003 Oldsmobile Aurora

1995 - 2003 Oldsmobile Aurora

1995 - 2004 Toyota Avalon

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4-Pole Flat, Hardwire Kit, and Circuit Tester


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Tekonsha Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4 Pole Harness Installation

Today we're going to review and show a typical installation of the upgraded circuit protected ModuLite from Tow Ready, part number 119179KIT. This is a great wire harness to add to your vehicle where you need to pull a trailer. What's nice about this wire harness is it actually does protect the vehicle from a short on a trailer if it ever occurs. This wire harness here will work on a wide variety of different vehicles, whether it had incandescent lights or LED lights because There's a lot of versions out there that are a little bit different. In this case, in our Pontiac, this will work just fine with its incandescent lights. Let's go ahead and take a look at the wire harness. We stated earlier that this wire harness will protect the vehicle in cases of short on a trailer, how it does that is relatively simple. If you look here we have a nice thick, heavy red wire right here.

This wire actually gets power from the battery on your vehicle and then the rest of the wires picked up the signal from the car and then copies that signal going out to your trailer. It only copies the signal and uses the battery power to light up the trailer lights. If there's ever a short in the trailer, this module will take the brunt of it and protect your vehicle. This allows your trailer to be completely isolated from the wire harness on your vehicle. This module has been upgraded to work with vehicles using pulse width modulation wiring, allowing the converter to fully turn on, giving your trailer maximum brightness.

This will also work with multiplex wiring systems as well. Let's go ahead and cover the parts that come with the kit. This is our wire harness right here and it comes out with a four pole connector with a cap for it. To help find the correct wires on your vehicle, it does come with a very simple light tester here. It grounds to the bodywork and it pierces the wire or the end of a socket for testing wires. It comes with a butt connector to hook up to your power wire that goes up to your battery and also some quick-splice connectors.

A piece of adhesive right here to mount the module in a safe location and also a ground screw. Moving on to the next part would be our wire harness. This actually comes in two pieces. This little miniature kit here will actually run the power up to your battery, so we have a nice long length of wire here, about 20 foot. We have a couple of ring terminals depending on what kind of connection you need to make up at your battery, another butt connector, a ten amp fuse, and a fuse holder and some zip ties. Before we get to our install, a couple of quick notes. This does come with some quick-splice connectors right here which are great for attaching to wires that are inside the vehicle and relatively protected.

In this case we're going to connect to some wires that may be exposed to the elements. We're actually going to use a different type of connector for that. We're actually going to use some more heat shrink butt connectors. In place of those quick-splice connectors, we're actually going to use part number DW05744-5, from Deka. This is their heat shrink butt connectors for 16 and 14 gauge wires. To install our wire harness, we're going to need access to the wires behind the tail light. We've already got our tailgate opened up. For starters we need to remove these caps right here. I'm using a flat blade screwdriver to pop them loose. There the little slot in the bottom you can put a tool in and pop them loose. We'll do this on both sides of the vehicle. For these two fasteners, we use a 10mm socket. You can also use a phillips screwdriver. We have the light loose, to help break it free it may be a good idea to use a trim panel tool, this is the plastic wide wedge. Work it in there and try to work it back and forth until you can free it up. There's two little pins right here that the light snaps into. To make things easier, we'll go ahead and disassemble the tail light from the wire harness. We'll push down this tab right here and we can pull it apart. There. Next, well go ahead and remove this sheath right here for the wires. We'll eventually need access to them. We're done with our driver's side for now, we'll go ahead and repeat this same process over on our passenger side. When you install your module, a couple of things you want to keep in mind. Sometimes you can hide it behind the tail light, like this, if there's enough room. It's kind of rare, but sometimes you can. Sometimes you'll actually run your wires through a grommet and out to your wires and this will stay on the inside. You can use this hole to zip tie it to hold it in place or use adhesive or a sheet metal screw to attach it to some sheet metal on the inside. You will need an extra self-tapping screw for that purpose that doesn't come with the kit. Also, you can maybe run this down below and underneath and attach it. One thing you want to know when you install these, even though they are completely sealed, they work best with the wires hanging out down below. It eliminates any chance of any water seeping in around the wires. If you we're to use an adhesive here, you also want to make sure your area's completely clean. It's a good idea to wipe it down with a mix of water and rubbing alcohol on the module and your sheet metal. Then just attach the supplied adhesive. It's a double sided tape basically. You can use this inside or outside the vehicle. Now we'll go ahead and show a couple of suggestions for routing the four pole wire harness. In this case we've got ours ran down behind the bumper cover and out the bottom towards the hitch, which is a really typical application. It's really great for if you're going to use your trailer a lot and you need access to it all the time. It's a good thing to do it that way. Sometimes you may have your install of your module and your wires on the inside of the vehicle, which is equally great as well. If you need to use it, you just bring it from the inside and pull it to the outside. Then you run the rest of your wires down to your trailer. In this case, you can see how the door seal is thick enough, when you shut the hatch it won't hurt the wires. In this case on a hatch, or a trunk, as long as you have a rubber coating here, you can shut the hatch on it and it will be just fine. This red wire here will be connected up to the long length of black wire that comes with the kit. This will eventually be routed towards your battery. A couple of ways of doing it is just like your four pole wiring harness. You could run it out and down towards the bottom of the vehicle and up towards the front and towards your battery, or you may want to run it from the inside edge of your interior paneling up to the front and through the firewall and up to your battery, whatever feels more comfortable to you. Okay. Get your wire ready. A lot of times it comes stripped; you may have to redo it. We'll take our butt connector, crimp it, then we'll get our black wire ready. Eventually I'll be making multiple connections with some heat shrink butt connectors. I'll use the heat shrink as one of my last steps while I'm back here. Now let's take our black wire, route it out the bottom, just like our four pole. There's a lot of things for it to hang up on the inside, so it'll require a little bit of patience to run it through. Your white wire here has a ring terminal built into it, so this will go to ground on the vehicle. Typically any of the metal body work that you see will work just fine. If you can, run your ground screw to where two pieces of metal overlap, that gives it a little bit more for a screw to bite into, and a little bit less chance of stripping it out and making the hole to big and starting over. For our wires here, our red, yellow, brown, and green wires. We're going to need to use our light testers. We need to find the right functions that match up. In this case, this part here will go to ground, that little clamp. If you can, attach a ground wire first so it can do double duty for testing. Instead of piercing the wires, use the end of the connector here and very gently use it as a probe to find out what circuit you want. Sometimes you'll test the vehicle and you know that the turn signal is working, but since you have the light disconnected from it, the computer on the car thinks the bulb is out, so it will turn off the circuit. Well, in that case, if you run into that, then you have to plug everything back in together and then, yes, you will have to use your tester and pierce the wire. Be very careful, just barely touch it and pierce the wire. We found our circuit. This is our left turn signal here. On our wire harness our yellow wire will go to our left turn. Now we'll go ahead and show you how to use a quick splice connector. You're going to slide your wire over the wire you want to tap in to. It'll fit on one track here. Then we'll take our second wire, run it into the second track. Push it through till it's flush and then you want to use some pliers to push the metal clip that'll go through the insulation and make contact for both wires. Then you slide your cap over. Our brown wire is going to be our running light circuit. You want to look for a signal that goes through the wires that only comes on when you turn on your headlights or your running lights. Our red wire goes to our stop light circuit. Whenever your vehicle has a separate stop light circuit, separate from the turn signals, you want to use this wire. If I didn't have to use this, I would add a separate ring terminal to this and just combine it with that ground right there. In this case, we'll go ahead and make another connection to our brake wire. Next, we'll go ahead and use the heat gun to shrink the connections. You can use the lighter, however you run the risk of damaging the connector if you put too much heat on there too soon. It's always a good idea to use a proper heat gun. Our green wire here has to be ran over to the passenger side of the vehicle. A couple of different ways of doing it. You could run it below, underneath the bumper cover, and around and back up. You'll probably run out of a little bit of wire, and it's not uncommon to actually extend this to make it go where you need to go. We could also pull back the bumper cover a little bit right here, and we could probably tuck it in behind here and we might have just enough to reach over there. For our particular vehicle, we're going to go ahead and run it underneath the bumper cover. We'll pop off the cap from this fastener, there will be one on each side, and using a 10mm socket we're going to go ahead and remove it and loosen it up. Now we can take our wire and tuck it in. We can tuck it in and make sure it doesn't get pinched. I'm just going to lay it across for now and then we can use our trim panel tool to help push it into place. I'm just using a trim panel tool, but anything wide which you can work it into place will work. Once you're satisfied with the routing of the wire, we'll go ahead and reinstall the fasteners. Now when we checked for our right turn signal on our vehicle, we found out this is all green wire, so it was a nice match up for a green to green on our passenger side. With all our electrical connections made behind the tail lights, we can go ahead and reinstall our tail lights. Make sure your connection plugs in securely and it clicks, and we'll put everything back together. Pop them back in place and reinstall the hardware. With all the hardware back in, then we're going to go ahead and reinstall all of our caps. Depending on your vehicle, if you ran your four pole wire harness on the outside, you just want to keep away from the exhaust and hid it behind the bumper cover as best as possible. Then run it down to the center of your hitch so you have easy access to it for your trailer. If you ran your four pole wire on the inside of the vehicle, you could simply keep it with the jack storage compartment until you needed to use it. I've just got the end sticking out for now but you can hide it totally inside when you're not using it. Another option is storing it with the spare tire area. When you need to use it you can simply pull it out and generally there's enough clearance for your wire so it won't get scraped up or damaged. Again, when you don't need it, you can just keep it with the spare tire. The advantage of keeping it on the inside is that your four pole connector is protected from the elements and it won't corrode up, and it will last a lot longer than one that sits outside of the vehicle. When you are ready to use it, you shut your hatch on it and there's plenty of room for it to move if you need to pull any out. When you run your wire up to the battery you want to make sure you stay away from anything moving, like suspension components, or anything hot, like the exhaust. It's a good idea to follow existing lines that are underneath the vehicle so you have something to zip tie to. Then you run this back up towards your battery from the engine compartment. Alternately, if you ran your wire on the inside of the vehicle, you could hide this underneath the panels and find a grommet on the firewall to run the wire to the outside. Whichever you prefer. To pull the wire from the bottom to the top we're going to need a pull wire. In this case I'm using an old piece of airline tubing but any piece of material that you can run down there, such as a good-old coat hanger, or I wonder if you could use a tape measure, something just to guide it down. Just make sure you stay away from moving components, again, or anything hot like the exhaust or steering components. Just run it down towards the bottom. If you can see the ground from on top and aim for that, you should be okay. Whatever fashion you use, just make sure you attack your wire to your pull wire. Make sure it's secure and then just pull it back up in position. With our wire pulled up, we'll go ahead and zip tie off to something that's convenient to help hold it in place and keep it from falling back down. By the way, I ran out of zip ties, already, that came with the original package. It's always a good idea to get some extra zip ties anytime you do some electrical. If you need any extra zip ties, you can use part number DW05726-10 from Deka. Now we'll go ahead and hook our fuse holder to our black wire that we just previously ran. It does come with a regular butt connector for that purpose, however I'm going to make another substitution using part number DW05745-5 Deka heat shrink butt connector for 12 and 10 gauge wires. When you hook this up to your power supply, typically you're going to go to the battery, however, in some situations, like this vehicle here, the battery is actually buried under another component. If you can, look and see if you can find another power wire that goes to the junction box. If that's straight off of the battery, you can hook up directly to that. On our install here, we're going to use this post that comes directly off the battery, since it's covered up by another component. I'm going to just cut it short and then I'll add my fuse holder. We'll let that sit for now. Let's strip the wires back and we'll add our heat shrink butt connectors since this is kind of outside. Now we'll take our fuse holder, cut it in half, strip the wires back before and hook up to our butt connector. Now other side, we'll go ahead and strip back the wire and we'll go ahead and add our ring terminal. The kit does come with two different sized ring terminals. Typically the smaller one you're going to use most of the time, but whatever works. Once again, since we're wiring on the outside of the vehicle, we're going to make a substitution. We're going to use part number DW05741-1; this is the Deka ring terminal, it's a heat shrink, and it's designed for 10 to 12 gauge wires also. We'll put our butt connector over the end here. It's sealed off at the front here, which is nice. Push the wire as far we can, we'll crimp in this location. Then we'll use a heat gun to shrink both of them and make our attachment to our power supply. Now I'll take our ten amp fuse that comes with the kit, put in in our fuse holder, and then we'll go ahead and zip tie our wire one more time to keep it safe and secure and out of the way. With our fuse in place, everything is electrically connected. Let's go ahead and try it out. We'll use the tester that came with the kit. We'll take our clamp, put it to the ground wire, which is white, and then we'll check our brown wire for our running light circuit. We turn on our running lights or our headlights and we've got a signal there. Now we'll turn on the left turn signal. Okay. That would be our yellow wire. Then green for our right turn signal. Okay. Then we'll check our brake signal, which will be a constant signal on the yellow and green wires. All right, looks like everything works. That'll finish it for our upgraded circuit protected ModuLite, part number 119179KIT, from Tow Ready.


Customer Reviews

Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4-Pole Flat, Hardwire Kit, and Circuit Tester - 119179KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (288 Customer Reviews)

This ModuLite Ultra Protector with integrated circuit and overload protection safeguards both itself and the tow vehicle against electrical shorts or mis-wiring situations.

- 119179KIT
by:
2000 Lexus RX 300

I'm only sorry I didn't take photos of the installation of the trailer wiring. I have to say, it was the easiest most enjoyable install I may have ever done of this kind. I'm not the handiest when it comes to this type of thing, but coupled with the complete wiring and hardware setup, it really made all the difference. The video that accompanied my specific vehicle also made a world of difference, major high marks for this. The only thing that may have helped was a bit longer wire for the passenger side (green) wire, but that's probably not even worth mentioning though I did. I'm putting together a tow package for hauling a light motorcycle trailer, so I figured I'd try this myself and I'm glad I did, great instructions make all the difference! These guys include everything right down to the wire ties and it's all top quality heavy gauge wire. Thanks again and I'll be using you guys for sure in the near future. Graham 240723


Comments

Thanks for the follow-up. All is well with the wiring, its also strange synchronicity as I just bought a little trailer last week and for the first time in a year I used my new wiring harness again. Perfect, thanks again!

Graham H - 09/27/2017

28512

- 119179KIT
by:

Product arrived in a timely matter, appears to be of high quality and was relatively easy to install. The inclusion of a circuit tester was a welcome feature. If the products' longevity matches its' appearance, it is an excellent buy. 120841


Comments

Product still functions reliably. It turns out to have been an excellent investment.

David C - 03/15/2015

10045

- 119179KIT
by:

Bought this kit for my 04 WRX because it does not have any trailer wiring harness. Install was a sinch, especially for anyone somewhat knowledgable with automotive experience. Just pulled back the trunk lining and tapped into my tailights. As for the big wire you have to run to the battery, i suggest you take the time and pull your interior trim out and run it inside the vehicle and throught the firewall, dont just ziptie it up under the car. Works exactly as its said to, already have made two trips with my trailer and all lights have been in perfect working order. Also happy with ETRAILER's shipping, arrived was sooner than expected! 61111



- 119179KIT
by:
2005 Buick LeSabre

Product doesn’t work. Installed correctly right signal connection tested good in car but there was a short in the amplifier box which turned the left signal on with left or right signal activation. Horrible costumer service. They are charging me to return it. I am a repeat customer but will never buy from them again. 504391


Comments

To test the if the converter box is bad, you can use a tester and test the incoming function on the wires, and the make sure that same function is transmitted through the converter box. If it is not, then the converter box is bad.

-- Rachael H - 05/15/2018

38524

- 119179KIT
by:
2013 Kia Soul

I bought the Draw-tite hitch and the Modulite wiring harness for my new 2013 KIA Soul and was overall very pleased with the service and the product ..... I'm glad I watched the installation videos when I ordered the items as I was unable to find them when I went back in to doublecheck a couple of details ..... the Modulite wiring harness did not come with any instructions at all ! And the hitch instructions didn't show the secret trick about lowering the muffler .... the videos were VERY helpful but I don't understand why I couldn't find them when I went back in ( admittedly, on a different computer ) to check .... But everything went together very well and is working perfectly ! E-trailer was very prompt, very competetively priced, and very helpful with their online videos ..... thanx, E-trailer ! 89335


Comments

Did your kia soul have led lighting? If so which brand did you buy and was it easy to run all the wires with go results. thanks jack

-- comment by: Jack B - 01/30/2014

2679

You can use the 119179KIT harness with both LED light and non-LED versions of the Soul. Since the 119179 harness has its own power feed, the LED lights would be protected. We have installed the kit on a 2013 Soul and shot a video of it that I have linked below. If you let me know what year Soul you are working with and whether or not yours is LED, I can check to see if there are other options.

-- Patrick B - 2/5/2014


- 119179KIT
by:
2013 Infiniti EX37

Both the dealer and U Haul said they couldn't do a wire package for a 2013 Infiniti EX37. This kit worked just fine. Could have used instructions for the lighting adapter, but watching the video a couple of times and taking notes for which color did what seems to have worked. Delivery was quick. Thanks for the tester, couldn't have done without it. (Use a leather glove on the hand holding the wire!) 126924


Comments

No problems. Its great to have toing capability.

Mark M - 04/23/2015

11058

- 119179KIT
by:
2002 Mercury Grand Marquis

I WAS AMAZED AT THE SPEED OF DELIVERY. I HAVEN'T INSTALLED IT YET BECAUSE I AM ILL AND IT IS TOO COLD, BUT THE VIDEO MAKES IT SEEM EASY TO DO. I AM EXCITED ABOUT THE NEW WIRING SYSTEM THAT WILL ELIMINATE THE PROBLEMS THAT I HAVE HAD WITH EARLIER WIRING SYSTEMS FOR MY OLDER 2002 MERCURY. I WAS VERY PLEASED AT THE DELIVERY OF MY HITCH ALSO. IT CAME QUICKLY AND EVERYTHING WORKED OUT VERY WELL. INSTALLATION WAS EASY AND STRAIGHT FORWARD. I DID IT IN MY DRIVEWAY. I JACKED UP THE HITCH TO TOUCH THE FRAME AND MARKED IT OFF FOR DRILLING. I DID IT ALONE. WORKED GREAT. I DRILLED THE HOLES, THEN BOLTED ONE AT A TIME. I HAD A NEED TO CALL AND ASK QUESTIONS, AND FOUND IT EASY TO DO BUSINESS WITH THESE PEOPLE. THEY HAD THE ANSWERS AND WERE VERY HELPFUL. THESE GUYS ARE THE BEST. 325203



- 119179KIT
by:
2014 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen

Harness works great! It was straight forward for anyone with any wiring knowledge. The video was helpful but would have been more helpful with an instructional sheet included. I called customer service to ask a question and they were very helpful and quick in response. Good product at a good price. 130749


Comments

The harness and hitch have worked great. I see a lot of trailer hitches that rust very quickly. This one still looks very good. I just recently ordered a hitch for my Ford Ranger from etrailer as I was happy with what I had purchased before.

Kyle B - 05/18/2015

11817

- 119179KIT
by:
1991 Chrysler New Yorker

I purchased a class 2 Draw-tite hitch, drawbar with 3 1/2 " rise, 1 7/8 ball, and the circuit protected modulite 4 pole harness kit for my 1991 Chrysler New Yorker. The shipping was incredibly fast. Everything fit well and easy install. I saved $200.00 installing it myself. Now I'll be able to tow my 14 ft aluminum fishing boat and catch me some nice trout. Thank's for the good products and fast shipping. Here's some pics. You can't even see the hitch unless the drawbar and ball are on. Lou 39159



- 119179KIT
by:
2014 Volkswagen Jetta

I bought the trailer electrical kit on the same order as a Curt hitch for my 2014 VW Jetta Wagon. Both items arrived on time packed in the same box and in good shape. I will use the hitch and light hook up to tow a small sailing dingy. I watched the install videos for both products and I found them very accurate as well as helpful. The hitch was installed as planned in about an hour. The light hook up took a little longer as I had to jack up one whole side of my car for access running a power wire up to the battery. I towed the boat to the water yesterday and all worked just fine. 129324


Comments

Excellent

Mark M - 05/08/2015

11481

- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Volvo S40

This is a clever device that I never knew about but it isolates the trailer light load from the auto system, the auto only supplying low power signals to the trailer light controller. I suggest a bunch of YouTube viewing to see how this is installed, they are excellent. Also see your owners manual for a trailer power wire to the trunk. My Volvo has this as fuse #14, and can be traced to the right taillight area, very handy. This big (red) wire supplies the power for the "controller" to distribute correctly to the trailer plug when you signal or brake, etc. No running the new wire supplied under carpet, the car body or anywhere. It works as designed and is not hard to put in overall. 1 Hour You Tube, 1/2 hr. trunk guts removal, 15 min. detecting which wires with the little tester supplied, 1 hr. installing, 1hr. putting trunk guts back and checking all out. It's very small, didn't use the tie-wraps. 272044



- 119179KIT
by:
Toyota Tacoma

It does what you need. I'm about to purchase my third of these - so I must be happy with it. The first two were on my '94 F150. When towing a trailer that has more than just a single pair of stop-turn lights, you need a powered adapter to keep from "dimming out" the tail lights/signal lights on the truck. My first one failed after a few years (tail lights always on, even when the truck lights were off!) so I bought a replacement. It would be nice if they lasted the life of the vehicle, but that's just not the standard for aftermarket and towing electronics - presumably because we consumers are so cost-sensitive. Now I've sold that truck and bought a new Tacoma. After installing the "plug and play" adapter, I find the tail and clearance lights are bit dim (6 bulbs total on the trailer) and while the factory setup has enough power to power either turn signals, it can't do the emergency flashers. So it's time to buy another 119176. 3432


Comments

Appreciate your positivity although it seems you had some disappointments..

-- comment by: Eric - 01/04/2013

756

With that number of lights, depending on the bulbs, the 119190 might be a better solution. It will support a greater light load than will the 119176. It probably would have lasted longer on his older F-150 too.

-- Patrick B - 1/8/2013


- 119179KIT
by:
2003 Mercury Grand Marquis

I purchased this kit to install in my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. This wiring kit is just the ticket for getting your hitch up & running. You need a wire stripper/crimping tool, some black electrical tape, and definitely a creeper when you run the wire from the module to the battery. I would also recommend a set of trim removal pry bars as demonstrated in the eTrailer video. This kit installs easily, but take your time, especially when routing the wire to the battery. Make sure you protect the wire from the rough/sharp edges you WILL encounter! I wrapped electrical tape around the sharp edges and around the wire, should last a while. Also, use the included zip ties where necessary so it doesn't get hung up on something. To use the tester, ground it out (see pic) and come through the insulation at an angle instead of straight down (the lead will 'give' otherwise). I routed the battery wire through the rubber body plug, since there wasn't an easier way I could find. I will probably buy another plug and make a small cut for the wire to pass through later (a little silicone or rubber cement will seal it off). This kit might cost more than you might like to spend, but I highly recommend it for a proper and safe wiring job. 19791



- 119179KIT
by:

Very easy to install, with good directions. The printed directions are pretty universal, so I highly recommend googling your specific vehicle for the install instructions - more than likely there's a tutorial somewhere. 635807



- 119179KIT
by:

Product was easy to install and works great. I would recommend this product to anyone. 629542



- 119179KIT
by:

Easy peasy! The whole process from ordering to installing was a breeze! 615373



- 119179KIT
by:

I used a video for the install. Worked great. I recently traded the 2001 Lexus with 199000 miles, so no pictures. 614264



- 119179KIT
by:
2005 Lincoln Town Car

no instructions with wiring 606635


Comments

The wiring harness you ordered isnt a vehicle specific item, so the instructions provided with it are very generalized. If you click the provided link, you can see an install video showing the harness being installed on a slightly newer Town Car. The procedure on your vehicle would be nearly identical.

-- Mike L - 02/20/2019

49719

- 119179KIT
by:
2013 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen

Quick and easy. 603299



- 119179KIT
by:

This has been a top-notch product for me. It installed easily with the included instructions. I've had it a year now and it has performed flawlessly. This has been a very good product for me. THANKS!!! 602332



- 119179KIT
by:
1993 Ford Thunderbird

This was a wiring harness for putting in the electrical portion of a trailer hitch on a 1993 Ford Thunderbird. It came with all the connectors needed, and wiring diagrams. It took about 45 minutes to install and test. I would recommend this company to anybody doing that kind of job! 594769



- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Toyota Solara

Products were exactly what I wanted and yes, they are still great a year later. 570283



- 119179KIT
by:
2015 Kia Sorento

It arrived with the rest of the order only packed in a zip lock bag. No instructions were included. I found the instructions on the website easily. The included splice connectors cut my three of he vehicles wires. I have used these before and know how to use them correctly. The green wire for the right turn was not long enough to reach that side of my vehicle. After butt splicing it still does not work. I will trouble shoot all the connections and if it stilll does not work, I hope to return for refund. 554299


Comments

This wiring harness part 119179KIT for I4 models without the factory towing package. If your 2015 Kia Sorento is a I4 without the factory towing package then this wiring harness will need to be hardwired. This kit is a universal wiring harness so it fits various different vehicles. The first thing you need to do is take the circuit tester you received with the kit and test your tail light functions. It looks as if the 2015 Kia Sorento has a 3 wire system. Starting on the drivers side, locate OEM wiring that will function for the running light circuit, turn signal circuit and brake circuit. The yellow wire will butt connect to the vehicles left turn wire, green wire to the vehicles right turn wire, brown to the vehicles tail light wire and red to the vehicles brake light circuit. The white wire needs to be grounded on a clean bare metal surface of the vehicles frame. The thicker gauge red wire will then need to be connected to the extra black wire in the kit to the 10 amp fuse included in the kit and then to the positive side of the battery. I have attached a help article about routing the power wire.

-- Heather A - 08/17/2018

42512

- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Volvo XC70

The Circuit Protected Modulite unit works great and was easy to install. The direction provided were clearly written and easy to follow. Have not had any problems with the unit, and did not have to make any additional modifications to my Volvo XC70 to get it to work properly. Excellent buy! 542147



- 119179KIT
by:
2008 Mercury Grand Marquis

I haven’t attempted the electrical installation yet. The light adapter looks good. I don’t like modifying auto electrical systems especially using piggyback connectors. I much prefer direct plugins but I suspect my 08 Grand Marquis didn’t come equipped for easy trailer lights. 541113



- 119179KIT
by:

Still going strong.One evening install, and it's paid for itself already! 525836



- 119179KIT
by:
2002 Toyota Camry

Replaced earlier trailer light module (17499-204). Left turn signal/stop light failed due to short circuit. The newer module has overload protection and brighter lights! Works fine on 2002 Toyota Camry. 520166



- 119179KIT
by:

Product was perfect and saved me hundreds of dollars, per my dealership quote. 515015



- 119179KIT
by:

Looking forward to installing and using it for my Jet ski - summer looking good!! Excellent service by Salespeople like Carla makes shopping fun!! 512637



- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Ford Mustang

I have a 2007 Ford Mustang, the exact vehicle in the video, and it was supremely helpful in installing this trailer light kit. It works exceptionally and now I can tow my sailboat :) thanks for the excellent product! 506764



- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Ford Crown Victoria

Works perfect, all parts needed were enclosed. I’m happy with my purchase. 501117



- 119179KIT
by:
2013 Dodge Ram Pickup

Works absolutely perfect on my 2013 ram 1500!!!!! 492613



- 119179KIT
by:
Chrysler Pacifica

Quality product, great video instructions for my Chrysler Pacifica. Running the wires to the front without a lift is a bit tricky, but doable. 4 stars because they ship this product in the same box as my hitch which is not ideal. It means this kit bounced around all though shipping and had some damage to the packaging, no damage to the actual unit however. 484974



- 119179KIT
by:

Thanks for the e-mail. The products and service were GREAT!! Easy to purchase, easy to install. and the performance was flawless! We have since sold both the trailer and the tow vehicle, but we know EXACTLY where to go for parts for the next one! Thanks so much! 475438



- 119179KIT
by:

Works as described. Fast shipping! 463034



- 119179KIT
by:
2010 Mercury Grand Marquis

Installed in 2010 Merc Grand Marquis. While intstalling red wire from battery, I used wire loom so no chafing occurs. Wiring kit works perfectly! No load on car system with this kit. Thanks Eric in Louisiana 456592


Comments

still works great!

Eric - 12/04/2018

46382

- 119179KIT
by:

turn signal kit works fine ---had a local shop install it 453587



- 119179KIT
by:
Toyota Highlander

I can't get over the price and speed of service! It's cheaper than going to a auto store! Plus they give you everything you need in one shot. I admit I made a mistake on my order and a simple phone call they fixed it with no problem. The only thing I would say which probably was my fault is they had a plug and play electric kit for my highlander that should of been offered in page for kit. They got me on track! Wish I would of used them on my last hitch I bought, but now I know and will recommend to friends. Post pics later. 453407



- 119179KIT
by:

The technician spent several hours trying to make the break lights to no avail, he gave up after four long hours, he complained that no instructions came with the harness. 436724



- 119179KIT
by:
2000 Toyota Avalon

Works as advertised. Haven't had a single issue. 434174



- 119179KIT
by:
2015 Ford Taurus

Mike it came with no instructions. After finding a video online I realized I did not want to go to the effort to install a power wire from the battery to the trunk To power the module. I chose to purchase an $8 light kit from the hardware store because I had already wired a 2001 Taurus in 15 minutes. I will do the same for my 2005 Taurus. 420763


Comments

Danny, instructions can be found at the following link:

-- Laura E - 08/25/2017

27584

- 119179KIT
by:
2005 Mercury Grand Marquis

I installed the unit by myself. It took a little longer, had several rest breaks (I am 90 years old) every thing fit and went well. The hitch is beautifully well built and the instructions were very good. Thank you for your follow up and customer service... 417897



- 119179KIT
by:
2014 Chevrolet Impala Limited

Great product. I took my time with the install to get all the wires where I wanted them. Everything is tucked away, secure, and out of site. Fun project with great video help and customer service. 415562



- 119179KIT
by:

Fast shipping excellent quality in product I now know were to go for all my trailer needs 414854



- 119179KIT
by:
2005 Mercury Grand Marquis

Yeah I'm happy, it worked great and was fairly easy to install with the instructions. The body ground didnt work well, so i had to put a dedicated ground wire in to make the trailer lights work proper, no biggie. 414269



- 119179KIT
by:
2010 Volkswagen Jetta SportWagen

I use this harness for my '10 VW Sportwagen to tow a camper and a utility trailer. It's worked beautifully for a year. I stow the wiring in the left hand storage compartment so it's out of the way when I'm not using it. Great setup and simple install. :) 409504


Comments

Been using for a year and its been awesome! I even towed my little 13 camper to the West Coast and up highway 1 all the way to Washington. Amazing trip, no issues at all with wiring.

Chris L - 07/23/2018

41327

- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Volvo XC70

Perfect 399089



- 119179KIT
by:
2007 Mercury Grand Marquis

I installed it on a 07 grand Marquis. Very simple and works as it should. Watching the video on the 06 crown vic made find my cars wire colors a breeze. Thanks for the great product. 398582



- 119179KIT
by:
2004 Toyota Avalon

Well made 400269



- 119179KIT
by:
2004 Toyota Avalon

Everything was where it was supposed to be. The product was installed in thirty minutes. 400268


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Ask the Experts about this Tekonsha Wiring
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  • Trailer Wiring Harness for a 2018 Honda Civic Hatchback
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  • Trailer Hitch, Wiring, and Brake Controller for 2019 Ram 1500 Classic and 5,000 Pound Trailer
  • Congratulations on the new ride! We have several trailer hitches for your 2019 Ram 1500 Classic. Based on a trailer weight of 5,000 pounds gross I recommend etrailer hitch # e98852. This hitch is rated for 6,000 pounds gross trailer weight (10,000 when used with weight distribution) so it has more than enough capacity for your trailer. If your truck did not come with a factory trailer connector you can use # 119179KIT to add a 4-Way flat to the rear of the truck. And to add a 7-Way connector...
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  • 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Pickup Hitch Receiver
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  • For your 2013 Cadillac SRX, you will need a brake controller and wiring for a pop-up camper with electric brakes. For this, I recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional # 90195. This when connected will apply the brakes to your trailer at the same time and with the same intensity as you hit the brake pedal in your SRX. This controller has the manual override lever that allows you to apply just the trailer brakes and has an easy to read LCD...
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  • Will etrailer.com Trailer Hitch Receiver for a 2006 Toyota Highlander Fit the Hybrid Model
  • Our fit guide splits up the hitches for your 2006 Toyota Highlander into two categories: those that are confirmed to fit the Hybrid model and those that aren't. The etrailer.com hitch, part # E98857, fits both the Hybrids and non-Hybrids so it shows up under both categories which can be kind of confusing sometimes. Rest assured, it does fit your Hybrid Highlander. If you're going to be towing with your Highlander you also need a wiring harness. Part # 118248 fits if you have the tow...
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  • Trailer Hitch, Brake Controller and Ball Mount Recommendation for 2017 Ram 1500 w/o Tow Package
  • First thing you'll want is a trailer hitch. For that the Curt hitch part # 14374 is a confirmed fit and would work well. It has a great price and more capacity than needed for the trailer you plan to tow. It can tow up to a 10,000 lb trailer. For trailer wiring you will need to start with a 4-way (if you do not have one). For that you would want the # 119179KIT. From there you would need to convert the 4-way to a 7-way so that you can install a brake controller to activate the brakes...
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  • Cannot Find Connector for Brake Controller on 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn
  • The connector that you need to install a brake controller like the Prodigy P3 # 90195 using the Plug-In Adapter # 3024-P on your 2016 Ram 1500 should be under the driver side dash to the right side of the steering column as demonstrated in the attached installation video. Sometimes these connectors can be shoved way up under the dash. If you still cannot find it then you have a few options. The easiest would be to take your truck to a Dodge Ram dealer and see if they can locate it for...
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  • Recommended Trailer Wiring Harness and Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver on 2011 Cadillac SRX
  • If your 2011 Cadillac SRX already has the connector to plug a trailer wiring harness under the rear bumper then all you need for a wiring harness is the Tekonsha Custom Harness # 118259. This plugs directly into the connection and provides you with a 4-way trailer connector that will hang under the Cadillac's rear bumper. We recommend mounting the 4-way, with a mounting bracket, like # 18144. If your Cadillac did not have the connector under the rear bumper you would need the Upgraded...
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  • Will Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch 41948 Fit a 2017 Ram 1500 Express Quad Cab with Dual Exhaust
  • I checked with Draw-Tite and they list Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver w/ Cast Center - Custom Fit - Class V - 2" Item # 41948 as a fit for all styles of the 2017 Ram 1500 so that would include your Express. I also recommend etrailer.com Ball Mount Kit - 3" Rise or 4" Drop - 16,000 lbs Item # EBMK2416. It comes with a ball mount with a 3 inch rise or 4 inch drop, 2 balls, a hitch pin with clip, and a storage bag. And if your truck did not come with a factory trailer connector...
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  • Taillights and Turn Signals Working But No Brake Lights on Trailer
  • Almost every trailer in the U.S. uses a 2-wire or combined wire tail light setup. This means that the turn signals and brake lights are on the same circuit and use the same bulb in the trailer tail light assembly. Because of this, virtually every trailer wiring adapter is designed to carry the turn signal and brake lights on the same pin circuit, so I would assume that this is the case for your 7 to 4 way adapter. It sounds like with working turn signals and taillights, that the problem...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch And Wiring For 2006 Toyota Tundra
  • For your 2006 Toyota Tundra, I recommend the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" # C13180. This is a square tube design with a black powder coat finish over a protective base coat for superior rust resistance. This is a no drill installation. For your wiring, I recommend the Tekonsha Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite with 4 Pole Harness and Hardwire Kit - Includes Tester # 119179KIT. This will give you a 4 way flat connection. Then you will need to get the...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Recommendation for 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder
  • We have the Draw Tite hitch part # 24754 which is a fit for your 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder and has a 2,000 lb capacity. This would easily tow a 1,200 lb trailer. For a hitch ball you'd want the part # 3592 and hitch ball # 19256 for a 1-7/8 inch hitch ball. For trailer wiring you'd then want the part # 119179KIT.
    view full answer...

  • Recommendation For Hitch For 2012 Land Rover LR2
  • For a great fit for your 2012 Land Rover LR2, I recommend the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Round Tube Receiver Hitch, Item # 75688. It does not require drilling and bolts onto your frame. For trailer wiring, I recommend the Tekonsha Upgraded Circuit Protected ModuLite Kit, Item # 119179KIT, which is confirmed as a fit. If you need a bracket for the hitch wiring, I recommend Item # 18144. If you need a hitch ball mount and hitch balls for towing a trailer, I recommend the Etrailer...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Expert Research:
Michael L
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
Andrew K
Updated by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Brandon M
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video by:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Expert Research:
Lori W
Expert Research:
Rachael H
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Video by:
Zach D
Photos by:
Stacy F
Test Fit:
Andrew S

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