Wiring

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Mercedes-Benz

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GLC-Class

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Tekonsha

FITS 2019 Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class
Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit

Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit

Item # 119190KIT

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2019 Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class

GLC300

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Tekonsha Wiring - 119190KIT
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Tekonsha wiring for your 2019 Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class are available from etrailer.com. Installation instructions and reviews for your Mercedes-Benz wiring. Expert service, and cheapest wiring price guarantee. etrailer.com carries a complete line of Tekonsha products. Order your Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit part number 119190KIT online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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2019 Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class - Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit

  • Trailer Connectors
  • Vehicle End Connector
  • 4 Flat
  • Plug and Lead
  • Tekonsha

This ModuLite harness offers peace of mind by including circuit protection to safeguard itself and the tow Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class from harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. The upgrade also includes the ability to work with PWM on Mercedes-Benz GLC-Classs.


Features:

  • Short circuit protection safeguards itself and the tow vehicle against harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations
    • Automatically self-resets
  • Virtually eliminates draw on the vehicle's tail light circuit
  • Tail light circuit has been upgraded to work with vehicles using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM), allowing converter to fully turn on, giving trailer lights full brightness during activation
  • Powers the trailer's stop, turn, tail and running lights directly from the tow vehicle's battery
  • Unit prevents feedback from trailer to vehicle system
  • May be used on 2- and 3-wire systems
    • When used on 2-wire systems, brake wire on harness must be grounded
    • Adapts a 3-wire system on the towing vehicle to work with a 2-wire system on the trailer
  • Will work on vehicles and trailers with either LED, incandescent, or standard bulb tail lights
  • Works with most multiplex wiring systems
  • Install kit (118151) is included to help run wire to vehicle battery


Warning: Overloading circuits can cause fires. Do not exceed:

  • Maximum stop/turn light: 4.2 amps per circuit
  • Maximum tail lights: 7.5 amps

Read vehicle's owners manual and instruction sheet for additional information.



119190KIT Upgraded Heavy Duty Modulite Circuit Protected Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class Wiring Harness with Install Kit



119190KIT Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 119190KIT Installation instructions

Video of Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2016 Mercedes-Benz GLC-Class

Speaker 1: Today on our 2016 Mercedes-Benz GLC 300 we will be having a look at and installing the Tekonsha upgraded heavy duty ModuLite circuit-protected vehicle wiring harness with install kit, part number 119190KIT. Here's what our wiring looks like installed. As you can see, it's designed to be stored inside the vehicle when it's not in use. By storing it inside the vehicle, this will help protect it from the elements. This wiring harness also features a built-in dust cover here to help keep any dirt, debris, or contaminants out of the connector. You can also put dielectric grease inside the connector, which we have available on our website, to help better protect it.Now this wiring harness gives us the basic lighting functions that are required by law in order for us to safely and legally tow a trailer.

This green wire here is our right turn signal and right brake light. This yellow wire here is our left turn signal and left brake light. Now the on these two wires we have 4.2 amps of total power output per side, giving us a sufficient amount of power in order to tow a small trailer that has basically as many LEDs on it as we want, and probably anywhere up to about four incandescent light bulbs per side. Anything past that, we may want to consider upgrading to LED lights because they do draw less power.On our brown here that is for our taillights and running light circuit, we have a total power output of 7.5 amps on this circuit, which is sufficient enough to tow a trailer with several lights on it even if they are incandescent. On this white wire here, this is the ground wire that provides the necessary ground connection between our GLC 300 and our trailer.Now when we're not hooked up to our trailer and we don't want this dangling down by our hitch, we can open up our hatch, lift up our cargo cover here, store it on inside, close our cover on up, and it's out of the way.

We don't have to worry about any of our cargo, getting it snagged on it when we're loading cargo in and out our vehicle. Now that we've gone over some features, we'll show you how to get it installed.To begin our install we'll open our rear hatch. Now behind each one of our taillights we have a fabric panel which we can pull on out. That will gain us access to the bolts that hold our taillights in. Now on the passenger side it is recommended to review our cargo net tie down hook here to get additional clearance.

Pry down this top cover here. It comes off. Behind that we'll find a Torx screw. That Torx screw is a T40. Now if we grab our side panel here and pull it out, we'll have better access to our fasteners that hold the taillight in.We find two of our fasteners, one there and one through this whole here.

These are both 8mm nuts. In some instances there may be three. Now we'll grab our taillight assembly and pull it on out. If you find that it's stuck, you can reach in and push in on the studs that secure it in place. We have a tab right here that we need to press in to separate our electrical connector. Sometimes if you use a flat head screwdriver, it's a little bit easier to get the tab released. Then you can push back on the wiring and it comes out. Now we'll repeat the same process on the driver side.Now we'll remove all of our floor coverings. Now at the very center of our threshold we have a T25 Torx screw. We'll remove this. Now we'll lift up on our threshold to remove it. Now I'll take out the carpet. Now we'll gain access to the bottom of our fuse box by pushing on this metal tab here down, and it will slide forward and out. On our driver side panel here we'll just grab it and pull it away from the vehicle. That gap there is plenty. That will give us plenty of room to work and pass our wires through.Now we're going to be testing out our wiring to figure out which of our signals go to which wire here. We're using a multimeter to do this. Now the reason we're using a multimeter versus a test light is because this vehicle uses pulse with modulated wiring and you won't be able to detect the proper voltages with just a test light. You have to have a multimeter. This is the backside of our driver side connector. We want to back probe it here. That way we don't damage the terminals where it plugs into our light. We'll start with this gray wire here. We'll figure out what this does. I'll ground out our multimeter. Left turn signal, please. You look at our multimeter now, it's flashing in conjunction with the turn signal. Turn signal off.Now we'll have them step on the brakes. When their foot's on the brakes, we get 12 volts of power. That's what we're looking for. Our vehicle has a combined turn signal and brake light on both sides, so we'll use this wire to make our connection for the turn signals. Now we'll turn our headlights on to figure out which wire's for our taillights. We'll test this black and purple one here. We're getting about 12 volts on our multimeter. Now we'll have our assistant turn the headlights off and see if it goes away. It does drop down, so we know that's our taillight wire. Now we'll do the same process for the right side to figure out which side's the right turn signal. We're testing our green and dark brown wire. It's the center one on the passenger side. We'll look at our multimeter. As you can see on our multimeter, it's flashing so we know this is our right turn signal.We're going to start with our left turn signal. This is our gray and black wire right here. We'll just cut it right here in the middle, strip back some of the insulation. Feed our yellow wire through the hole behind our taillight. This comes off of our module inaudible 00:06:47 insulation for that yellow wire. We'll twist our factory wire together with that yellow wire. This is the end furthest from our connector for the taillight. We'll slide a heat treatment butt connector over the wire. We have these available on our website. We'll crimp it down in place. The other end we'll twist up, double it back up, fold it in half on itself. This will make it thicker and easier for our butt connector to bite onto. Insert in the other end and crimp it down. We'll pass the brown wire from our module through the same hole. That is for our taillights, which will go to our black and purple wire right here. We'll cut this one in the middle, strip it on back, strip back our brown wire, combine the brown to the black and purple, slide on our butt connector, crimp it in place. Then we'll do the same treatment as we did for our turn signal.Now for our white wire here, this is a ground wire. Our red wire off of our module we're going to combine with this so it gets grounded out. We'll cut off the ring terminal right here that's already on it and strip back the insulation from both. Twist them together. We'll use the small ring terminal that comes with our kit and we'll crimp that on down. Now we'll take our provided self-tapping screw, place it through the ring terminal. We use a 1/4" nut driver to secure it to the vehicle's chassis. Doing it right behind our taillight on the driver side. That will get us a good ground right there.The black wire that comes off of our module, this is our constant 12-volt power wire. We'll strip off some insulation and we'll crimp on one more of our butt connectors here. Then we'll take one end of our spool of black wire that comes with our kit, strip off some insulation from it too, insert it into the other end and crimp it on down. Now we'll take our four-pole flat wire, our leftover green wire that we have, and our power wire, and we'll stick it through the hole. We'll run it out behind the panel. We'll tuck it underneath just like that.We went ahead and routed our green wire over to our passenger side around where our threshold's going to be resecured. We just ran it behind our panel here like we did on the driver side. It comes out our hole. Now we'll take our green and dark brown wire here and we'll cut it right in the middle and strip back our insulation from both ends. We'll cut off the excess wire from our green wire now. Strip back that insulation. Twist them together again. Place on our butt connector. Crimp it on down. We'll crimp that down too.Now we're back to where our power wire came out next to where our fusebox is. We'll take our fuse holder, continuous loop of wire, we'll cut it right in the middle, giving us two separate ends. Strip back the insulation from both ends. One end we'll place on our ring terminal that comes with our kit. We'll crimp it on down. The other end will get a butt connector. Our black wire will go on the other end of that butt connector. Now we'll use a heat gun and we'll heat shrink this butt connector. We have these heat guns available on our website. The reason you use a heat gun, because it's an indirect source of heat and not a direct flame like a lighter.Now on the backside of our fusebox, once we flip it over, we'll find a 10mm nut. This nut secures the power wires which go directly to our battery. This is a perfect spot to make a connection for a fuse holder. That way we don't have to worry about running a power wire all the way to the front of the vehicle where the battery is hidden underneath the windshield cowl. We'll just take a 10mm socket, remove that nut. It's actually built into the cable so we'll slide that up, making sure we don't touch any metal with this wire. Slide our ring terminal on over the stud and then back with this down. I'll snug that up. We'll flip this over for the time being, install a provided 10-amp fuse. We'll test the functions on our trailer wiring to make sure it's working properly.Right now we'll start by turning our headlights on. As you can see, our taillight and running light function's working. We'll do our left turn signal now. As you can see, our left signal's working. We'll do our right turn signal. That's working. We'll step on the brakes now. Our brakes are working. While our foot's on the brake, we'll turn our turn signals on to make sure everything is working properly. Now that we know everything works, we'll heat shrink our butt connectors by our taillights. If you're using a heat gun, you want to make sure you're pointing away from the plastic fascia. Otherwise, you risk melting it.Our module here we can just tuck behind this panel. There is a bunch of carpet padding that it will rest on top of so you don't have to worry about it making any rattling noises when it's down inside there. Now we'll take our fusebox here and we'll slide it back into position. That completes our look at and installation of the Tekonsha upgraded heavy duty ModuLite circuit-protected vehicle wiring harness with install kit, part number 119190KIT on our 2016 Mercedes-Benz GLC 300.


Customer Reviews

Upgraded Heavy Duty ModuLite Circuit Protected Vehicle Wiring Harness with Installation Kit - 119190KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (255 Customer Reviews)

This ModuLite harness offers peace of mind by including circuit protection to safeguard itself and the tow vehicle from harmful electrical shorts and mis-wire situations. The upgrade also includes the ability to work with PWM on vehicles.

- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Toyota Prius

I installed this 119190KIT into my 2015 Toyota Prius Plug-In Hybrid. I could find no review that addressed installing into a Plug-in Prius Hybrid. There were several reviews of various years of standard (non-Plug-In) Praises, but no reviews for a Plug-In. The eTrailer webpage video for 119190KIT (https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190KIT.html) has links to 4 other videos, none of which is for a Plug-In Prius (PIP), but one or more of them shows how to test and splice wires just like in the 119190kit. The video for the 2013 BMW X3 shows how to use the tester at the 2:48 mark. This tester was essential. I used it to determine which lights were connected to which wires. Do NOT rely on any videos to determine which color wire connects to which light (tail, brake, left turn, right turn). Instead, follow EXACTLY what the instructions sheet tells you. The first step was to determine which color wires in my PIP connected to which lights in the PIP’s rear tail area. When you use the tester, you MUST push the metal pointed tip directly and forcefully into the center of the plastic sheet encasing the wire. If you do not penetrate fully, you won’t get the tester’s light to come on when you press the car’s brake pedal or light switch or turn signal lever. A video that shows the internal compartments for a Prius is at this link: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2010-toyota-prius-118505.aspx It's not a Plug-In model, but it shows a lot of spots that are identical nonetheless. I found that there was not a lot of slack in the wires in the PIP’s taillight assembly, but there was enough. The video below shows a 2010 Prius and how to remove the rubber seal - at about time stamp 0:30+. A good spot to screw the ground into the "doubled sheet metal" is at 2:03+. A good segment to show putting the wires under the back side of the hatch starts at about 3:00 and runs until about 3:22+ and also at 3:30 it shows how/where the banded 4-pole wire will go into a lower compartment, to be stored until need to attach to a trailer. 3:53 - 4:41 shows running wire over to the other taillight. From 5:10 to 6:20, it shows hooking up to the battery. https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2010-toyota-prius-c56147.aspx This video shows a 2014 Prius V.... https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2014-toyota-prius-v-118610.aspx It shows the actual part that I have to connect - 118151 which includes the yellow "circle" wire.  Go to time 5:00.  It shows the yellow loop (aka, fuseholder) in the kit and how to install it at around time 5:42+ thru 6:23 and beyond shows attaching the yellow to the positve battery pole at around 6:40 to 7:00.  Shows adding fuse to fuseholder at 7:13+. At 7:30, starts to show attaching the ground wire to the "factory ground.  Through and past 9:20 shows zip-tying all wires. Here's another video that shows splicing…..with the kit’s “no-splice” connector. https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-wiring-2013-toyota-prius-119147kit.aspx ....at 3:30 to  about 5:13. WARNING - you must use pliers as shown to connect two wires that the directions say to connect. You have to squeeze the pliers pretty hard to get the metal piece in the plastic quick-splice connector to go all the way through the plastic sheathing and then make contact with. The video does not emphasize that you have to squeeze the metal piece pretty hard. In fact, when I first used four quick-splicers for connecting and then tested to see if a connection was made, only one of the 4 quick-splice connectors resulted in an electrical connection. So, I had to open up the 3 connectors and press the metal piece inside the quick-splice connector real hard. So, be careful!! I have a moderate degree of experience with home electrical wiring, but none with car wiring. I just took my time and it all worked great!!! 274346


Comments

This wiring is still working perfectly after one year! Very satisfied.

Fred Y - 07/20/2017

26381

- 119190KIT
by:
2007 BMW X5

Awesome product , love it. Works perfect and not complicated to install 524803



- 119190KIT
by:
Victory

The product works great. The worst thing about it was that there were no instructions with it at all. I had to email etrailer and they in turn emailed me the instructions. Other that that no problems. Fast shipping and product is as advertised. I used this product on my Victory Vision so that I could pull my trailer. Below is a picture of where I placed it. It worked out best in my opinion to velcro it to the back of the saddle bag. It actually mounted right under the wiring harness of the bike that I had to tie into. 85345


Comments

Still works great. No problems at all.

Damon C - 12/18/2014

8094

- 119190KIT
by:
2013 BMW X3

I ordered a trailer wiring kit. The etrailier website was easy to navigate and I easily found the item I needed. The wiring kit arrived within a reasonable time. I used the installation video on the etrailer website, which made the install very easy. I recently installed the wiring kit, so I have only used it a few times but so far so good!! 587969



- 119190KIT
by:
2016 BMW X5

Overall Kit is good. Some of the wires on the kit need to be longer by about 12 inches as it results in having adequate length to trim. Also the kit should include butt splice connectors instead of the blue crimp (no strip connectors). These type do not work as the OEM wire is to small to work effectively with this style of connector. The power connector eyelets are too big for the battery terminals. Overall good kit. Make the changes and this would be an excellent kit. 607592


Comments

This is not a vehicle-specific kit that will work right out of the box with most vehicles. However as you found, there will be a little necessary modification on some vehicles.

-- Mike L - 02/25/2019

49866

- 119190KIT
by:
BMW X5

This kit was great and functions exactly as intended. With the help of the online video it was easy to install, even for people without any electrical knowledge. My only advice is: 1) watch the video and the hitch installation video at the same time. This will help you plan ahead and not re-install parts during the hitch installation, that will need to be removed for the harness installation 2) be VERY careful about selecting the right wires, by using the testing tool eTrailer provides. In the install video for my BMW X5, the technician referenced a yellow and black wire when making the initial connection. He later goes on to make a separate connection for a black and yellow wire. To the novice they look nearly identical. I confused the two wires and had to re-do this, but would not have been an issue if I had understood the distinction and used the testing tool, as recommended in the instructions 3) be careful about placing all connectors so that they face in the same direction. Does not impact function, but makes for a neater install when complete. I could not be happier about how this project turned out, and credit etrailer with all of the success. It has a very OEM look, and etrailer made the entire project doable for me through their great suite of videos and excellent Customer service. I wish every retailer could be this good! 636884



- 119190KIT
by:

thanks for being so helpful in switching us into this heavy duty wiring harness. The service was better than all face to face places in this type of business. My installer swapped out the modules and everything worked perfectly. I can't say enough about both customer service and the tech support that we received. There should really be a sixth star (for above and beyond)! 268702


Comments

Works great... thanks.

Doug L - 01/16/2018

33174

- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Volkswagen Golf

I would have rated this better if good installation instructions were provided for my car model. If you're going to connect the 119190/119191 kit to a 2012 VW Golf, like mine, you will find that the correct wiring is from the ModuLite catalog Vehicle Code BM-1 3-Wire System (such as Mercedes R-class) - NOT the B 3-Wire System as listed in the ModuLite catalog. My VW Golf uses the same bulbs for taillights (providing 6 volts) and brake lights (providing 12volts). To make the converter work correctly, ground the brown "tail light" wire and connect the red "stop" wire to the VW wire that lights the tail light. In the three pin taillight connector (right or left side of the car) the middle wire is a ground, one outside wire is the turn signal and the opposite outside wire is the tail/brake light. Connect the red wire to the wire that is NOT the turn signal. If you follow the ModuLite B 3-wire suggestion and connect the red wire to ground and the brown wire to the VW tail light wire, the turn signals and brake lights seem to work correctly during the day (when you don't have the taillights on) but when you turn on the taillights, you don't get brake lights when you apply the brakes. 152555


Comments

Great review. Thanks! I also have a 2012 Golf TDI and followed your instructions. This saved me a ton of time since I literally did exactly what you stated and it worked out great. Thanks again.

-- comment by: Kamil - 02/07/2015

9355

- 119190KIT
by:
2018 Alfa Romeo Stelvio

I had more problem with this installation, but it had nothing to do with the kit. Just the installer (me!). I think the kit is well made and the video instruction is invaluable. I put it on my iPad and took it to the car. I referred to it many, many times. I would suggest that you watch the video all the way through and make a note of the supplies and tools you will need. I had to make a couple trips out to buy various items. But I'm glad I did it myself just so I know more about my vehicle. I also want to say that the folks at eTrailer have a great website and lots of help for installation. I highly recommend them. 556837



- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Audi Q5

The video for this installation on a 2012 Q5 was excellent. A couple of point to add. For fishing wire, a small piece of ice maker water line works great if you cant find or don't know what aircraft tubing is. Mounting the unit in the area shown with adhesive tape on is not the easiest. I would suggest removing the panel to get a proper place to mount this correctly. The door hinge has a plastic cover that is already hiding a wiring run. If you remove this, which is easy, you can run the wire with this, cover it back up, and its completely hidden. I would suggest soldering wire to wire splices rather then butt connectors. The T connectors are still the simplest and cleanest way to splice into existing wiring. 294493



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 BMW X3

The product works as advertised. It was nice to have a video to watch about my car as it made it significantly easier and compared to installing the hitch on a BMW X3 it was significantly easier. Unfortunately I watched a video about a 2015 version of my car while I own a 2014. The wiring looks the same but it doesn't function the same. My mistake (I needed to do a 5 wire connection instead of 4). The only issues with the kit: would be better if the wires that connect to the brake and turn signals and battery were just a little bit longer. Also, the clips that allow you to connect to the cars wires were not sized properly (too big) and if you aren't careful you can end up cutting through a car wire with the clip inadvertently which I did on one of the wires. Not the end of the world as it's fixable but it would be nice if they included multiple clips so you could pick the right one. Finally, there was only one butt end connector and you need two. These are cheap and not sure why the kit doesn't have a few of these. 498409



- 119190KIT
by:
Volkswagen Jetta

A module such as this is absolutely essential when trying to add a trailer lighting circuit to a modern CANbus equipped vehicle. The module itself works beautifully but I deviated from the eTrailer install video for my '13 Jetta Wagon. First, I used the 'poke-n-wrap' method with solder to attach the module's signaling wires to the vehicle wiring harness. I have a personal aversion to Scotchlok or vamp connections because they often fail with time and vibration. This method keeps the harness relatively compact and clean looking, especially if you resecure everything with cloth wiring harness tape. Second, no self drilling screws. I attached the module to the chassis with proper self adhesive tape like 3M VHB. The white ground wire is easily attached to the existing grounding lug on the left rear wheel well, so no self drilling screw there either. Don't poke holes in your chassis with self drilling screws if you can avoid it. I avoided drilling a hole in the spare tire well by running the power wire through the existing body plug in the area aft of the right rear wheel well. It's easy to remove the plug, drill a hole in it, and thread the wire through. Add a dab of black RTV to make sure it's watertight. When powering the module, the suggested method is to split the 1/4" ring terminal and stuff it under the nut that holds the positive battery terminal in place. Instead, I obtained an M6x1.25 nut and secured the fuse holder to a unused, unfused stud on the terminal block inside the underhood fuse block. When it's time to change the car's battery, the split ring will inevitably get deformed and may cause problems. This way, the positive terminal clamp only has to do one thing: hold onto the positive terminal. To bring the wiring harness outside the wagon I went a little off the deep end with a little sheet metal work and Molex MX150 connectors to make the passthrough watertight. I added etrailer 18140 and 18144 to mount the 4-way connector to the hitch so I wouldn't have to fish the wire out of the left-side trunk compartment and shut the tailgate on it every time I wanted to tow. 469706



- 119190KIT
by:
Volkswagen Jetta

This wiring kit works great! However the wires were just a tad too short so I had to add extra wire and there were no instructions to be found anywhere on how to wire this up. I used the insctruction video for the Jetta and figured out which wires I needed (but my install was a 2 wire setup not a 3 wire) it took me 4 hours to install but it does work perfectly so it's hard for me to be too upset over the wiring. 108359



- 119190KIT
by:
2018 Mercedes-Benz CLA-Class

Install on 2018 Mercedes Benz CLA250 w/LED tail lights: There were no guides I could find so I'm posting this for other etrailer customers. These are my installation notes and the kit operates correctly. There are other ways to do this, I'm sure. It isn't necessary to remove the tail lights, there is a removable piece in the trunk carpet. I removed that and the plastic trim panel in the middle. The tail lights have 10-pin connectors. On the left there are 8 wires on the right there are 7. My thought is maybe this has something to do with the european style parking lights. After probing I found this: Left Side: Turn/Brake - Yellow with White stripe Running/headlights - Black with Orange stripe There is constant power to the Green with White stripe Right Side: Turn/Brake - Light Blue with Red There is constant power to the Green with White stripe I had to splice additional wire to mount the module where I wanted it. The final connections were: Module Brown to Left Black/Orange Module Yellow to Left Yellow/White Module Green to Right Light Blue/Red Module White to Ground Module Black to Battery Module Red Terminated (unused) The positive electrical connection I made was under the hood, off the fuse box. Terminated to one of the lugs, covered with wire loom, and run into one of the cars wire bunches. The 4-wire hitch output is terminated with a CURT tester (If you put one there, you'll always know where it is when you need to troubleshoot something) This vehicle is completely covered on the bottom and running the wire can be very time consuming if you want it to look tidy. 560841



- 119190KIT
by:
2014 Audi Q5

Kit was missing butt wire connector. Double sided tape is NOT included in kit to mount module. I thought it would be included based on their install videos. 568707



- 119190KIT
by:
2010 Volkswagen Golf

I bought the 119190KIT, TK90160, and ETBC7 based on etrailer's recommendations for my 2010 VW Golf. I came into DIY trailer electronics without a clear understanding of what I needed, so I asked etrailer what would work for my car, and they put together this well-priced and high quality bundle for me. The parts arrived quickly and in good order, and using the included instructions and some videos from this site, the installation process was fairly painless. The biggest hitch for me was that the VW MKVI runs multiple modulated signals along one wire to the tail lights, so wiring for the turn signals had to be run up to the headlights instead. The kits didn't include this information, nor enough wiring to do that extra work, but it didn't set me back very much more. Great service, great products, and lots of excellent information on this site. I'll definitely be an etrailer customer for any more trailer stuff! 423912


Comments

Still going strong, its a great wiring kit.

Michael B - 08/23/2018

42679

- 119190KIT
by:
2014 Audi Q5

Was quite happy with the kit--excellent installation video for my 2104 Audi Q5 TDI Prestige. Not 5 star because: 1) the supplied test light's probe is too large to fit into the Audi plugs to test the signal, 2) the kit was missing the double stick foam tape to attach the module, and 3) the kit was missing one of the double-butt crimp connectors. I was very hesitant to use the supplied crimp splicers (bad experience for long term success before). Nonetheless I tried them. Big mistake, after firmly setting them with pliers, I gave the joint a little tug and the factory wire broke in half right at the splice (apparently the steel conducting piece severed the wire). I redid this connection and the others by soldering the new wire onto the appropriate Audi wire. I also prefer not to have loose wires running through random chassis holes. Rather than follow the video instructions to do such, I ran the wires alongside existing wire looms and used cloth tape and small wire ties to secure them against chafe or rattle. 546376



- 119190KIT
by:
2012 Suzuki SX4

Tekonsha makes good stuff. The kit is just what I needed for this car, thanks etrailer. 559870



- 119190KIT
by:
2014 BMW X5

Easy to install on a 2014 X5D M sport with LED lighting package. For others attempting the install, here's the wiring that I used: Module X5 Yellow -> Right side (black/white) Brown -> Right side (purple) Red -> GROUND (same screw as the white wire) Green -> Left side (black/purple) White -> GROUND Took about an hour to install, the X5 has a great ground screw and place to store the module on the drivers side. Test light included helped make it easy to find the right wires (but, now that you have the above map, you won't need to find them if your truck is like mine). Great service from eTrailer, delivered quickly with all the parts. My only complaint is that this module doesn't look that good hanging out the back of the X5 when trailering, I knew that going in, and given the outrageous cost of the stock trailer system (1000+), this was a good compromise for me and anyone who doesn't trailer all that often. 145461


Comments

Still working great, no complaints at all. Very good product, especiallywhen youre dealing with BMWs insane pricing for the OEM tow kit!

Mike F - 08/13/2015

14229

- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Volkswagen Golf

Works perfectly. A little complicated to install because of the new wiring using one wire for at least two functions. The directions were clear and it worked well from the first time. 573351



- 119190KIT
by:

Easy to install and works as advertised. 574596



- 119190KIT
by:
Mercedes-Benz

Installed into my 2015 MB GLK350. Was initially confused on wiring as the install video on etrailer website was for a 2012 GLK and they used red wire for power, but written instructions said red wire not used and yellow was for power. After watch install on another video for a 2015 MB but different model, I got it figured out. The 2012 install video helped out with the wire routing to front of car to battery. Once installed, all worked fine. 571513



- 119190KIT
by:

I had it installed and it works perfect ly 726737



- 119190KIT
by:

Quality product and service, straightforward insulation with no alignment issues. Takes a few hours without help and with a vehicle that’s needs to be wired. 726275



- 119190KIT
by:

I followed the installation steps that were on a Youtube video from your company and it was a snap! Everything that I needed for the install was included in the kit, except for one butt connector, but I had plenty of those and it all went smoothly. I don't have the trailer yet so I can't verify that the connections were correct, so I'll follow up in a week or two. 723293



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 BMW X5

I managed to download the PDF on my lighting module and saw that the Red wire goes to Ground on my type of tail lights. Thanks for the support on the 2-wire tail lighting. I just took the vehicle and trailer for a drive out on the highway and everything was perfect! This is my second BMW X5 and my second DrawTite trailer hitch. This one is on a 2015 and my first one was 3 or 4 years ago on my earlier 2011 X5. I did the full installation in my garage on the floor with normal-guy tools on both vehicles. Everything went great on both. I appreciate the quality of the welds and finish. With my i-Pad handy, your installation videos walked me through the job like I've done a hundred of these. I am very pleased! 719186



- 119190KIT
by:

The trailer harness was easy to install with clear instructions, and has worked flawlessly since installation. 707287



- 119190KIT
by:

I purchases the 119190kit wire harness for my car along with a hitch. Both products are working well so far. The installation instructions were accurate and easy to follow. 696584



- 119190KIT
by:

Perfect kit at a reasonable price. Easy to install, though it took a couple hours. One of the included wires was not long enough so I had to run to the hardware store to get a longer one [price] but that was a small price to pay for the relative ease of installation and the functionality of the unit. I sold the car but will buy this product again without hesitation if I install another hitch on the new car. 694957



- 119190KIT
by:
2016 Audi Q5

great experience. The videos and tutorials on install are probably the best I have ever seen. 694951



- 119190KIT
by:
2016 BMW X3

The helpful etrailer video specific to my vehicle made this super-easy to install. The kit could use a 2nd butt connector (the video employs two), and the green wire is a little short (making a tight connection to the other side of the vehicle). But everything works fine so far. 679614



- 119190KIT
by:

etailer always comes through!! The product arrived as promised in good condition Very happy with etrailer and the customer service 676860



- 119190KIT
by:

Great product. Works perfectly. 673307



- 119190KIT
by:

Fit perfect! The installation videos really helped out 658069



- 119190KIT
by:

Awesome 657784



- 119190KIT
by:

Works great. Instructions arent the best as the colors for the wires didnt match up but we figured it out and it hasn't failed since. Quality of the hardware is excellent. 654985



- 119190KIT
by:
BMW X5

A year has gone by and I haven't had one problem out of my trailer setup on my X5. I don't even think about it when hooking up my trailer to go for a trip. thx etrailer for everything. 647866



- 119190KIT
by:
BMW X5

I am giving 5 stars because the product is great and the videos make it very easy for anyone to install. For the BMW X5 trailer hitch the cut out to the bumper trim should be about 2.5" rather than 2". The bottom center two screws under the bumper trim will not install if you only cut 2". One of my back up sensors broke loose and I glued back on with JB Weld. The light harness was easy to install when following the direction and the kit was complete. One of the quick wire connectors broke and there were no spares. The green wire for the passenger side blinker was about a foot short. 647405



- 119190KIT
by:

This order shipped quickly. Everything was packaged and sent as expected. I will order again iz tubes time comes but I will definitely recommend this site to family and friends. 647187



- 119190KIT
by:

This kit was easy to set up and made it effortless. 647124



- 119190KIT
by:

Harness and towing kit were easy to install. Had to dremel the bumper for the hitch to fit. Wiring was fairly simple, as they have a video online. Great company to order from. 641744



- 119190KIT
by:

Excellent quantity. Directions great for hitch which included my variation on hybrid RX450h. The Electrical harness kit directions could have been better, they were pretty generic and where not specific for my RX450h. However they were good generic directions, just feel they should be more model specific. I didn’t need the approximately 10 feet of wire for battery hot wire since the hybrid battery is in the rear. Prefer a harness that is a plug and play type with no splicing connections. However, the kit did include more than what I needed, even a test light prob which I have in my tool box. A person using this kit needs a good automotive technical skill level. Kit directions if specific could even describe required panel removal on vehicle. BI had to figure that out which can be tricky. Especially when OEMs have such a array of fastener types and locations for wires underneath interior panels. All in all, good quality products from etrailer would definitely order again from e-trailer. Wish I took pictures but too late, everything is installed and reassembled. 640652


Comments

Unfortunately, this is not a vehicle specific item that could fit hundreds of different vehicles. Because of this, it wouldnt be feasible for the manufacturer to provide specific instructions for every vehicle this harness could be used on.

-- Mike L - 05/14/2019

55249

- 119190KIT
by:
2015 Volkswagen Passat

It appears that the VW Passat, 2015 in my case has an issue with many of the plug and play trailer wiring kits. Tekonsha tech support advises that many people experience issues with the 118646 kit as I did. Turn and brake lights work fine but their no trailer lights. Tekonsha recommends that for the Passat that you use the 119190 Kit. This kit requires you to physically locate the specific wires (left and right turn signal wires and the car's running light wire and tap into them. You still run the system with a separate power line through their black box. The 119190 kit takes maybe twice as long to install but it works perfectly. I have used this style kit on several VW's I have owned over the years. BTW if VW doesn't provide a factory trailer hitch, then you know you will experience issues with a plug and play aftermarket kit. 640277



- 119190KIT
by:

This purchase, along with customer service/technical help from etrailer saved me from purchasing a $1,000 tipm. 635302



- 119190KIT
by:
2007 BMW X3

Love the Draw-Tite hitch I installed on my 2007 BMW X3. Great fit, nice quality, good instructions, very good price. 622055



- 119190KIT
by:

Great looking hitch, a few hours without rushing. Bolted right up and ready to go fish! 619574



- 119190KIT
by:
2016 BMW 5 Series

EVERY THING AS EXPECTED 616609



- 119190KIT
by:

Great product, just as described. Super fast shipping!!! 612243



- 119190KIT
by:

Very pleased. 610542



- 119190KIT
by:
2015 BMW X5

I installed this kit on my 2015 BMW X5 xdrive35i. The instructions and video suggested using the compartment on the driver side and laying the connector and wiring in the center storage compartment when not in use. I installed the kit in the passenger side compartment and used a large un used grommet in that well to route the flat 4 connector to the receiver. The connector stores in the receiver back end when not in use. The wiring for the driver turn routes through the passenger side, so I tapped the left turn lead, right turn lead and tail lt lead all in that compartment. All neat and tidy. The battery tap was an easy route and connect as well. All works and no codes thrown as a result. 608216


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