FITS 2016 Ford F-150
Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle

Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle

Item # AL89284

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2016 Ford F-150

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AL89284 - Air Springs Air Lift Vehicle Suspension
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  • Air Lift
  • Air Springs
  • Extra Heavy Duty
  • Rear Axle Suspension Enhancement
  • Constant Load
Air Lift vehicle suspension for your 2016 Ford F-150 are available from Installation instructions and reviews for your Ford vehicle suspension. Expert service, and cheapest vehicle suspension price guarantee. carries a complete line of Air Lift products. Order your Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle part number AL89284 online at or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.

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2016 Ford F-150 - Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle

5,000-lb Capacity. These air springs have internal bumpers to provide the adjustable load support of air springs and the comfort and reliability of jounce springs. Durable stainless steel roll plates, air lines, and hardware are rustproof.


  • Hybrid spring system combines the adjustability of air springs with the reliability of jounce-style springs
  • Air bags reduce the strain on your rear suspension, increase safety, and compensate for uneven loads
    • Level your vehicle front to back and help maintain safe headlight aim
    • Adjust independently for side-to-side leveling of off-center loads
    • Improve steering and braking performance
  • Jounce spring inside each air spring helps to improve ride comfort, reduce sway, and help with cornering
    • Engages at lower air pressures to better absorb road shock and minimize bottoming out
    • Provides support progressively - the more you load the springs, the stiffer they become
    • Lets you temporarily carry a load with zero air pressure in your springs
  • Quality construction for long-lasting spring life
    • 2-Ply, fabric-reinforced rubber air springs are durable
    • High-strength Zytel nylon endcaps are lighter, stronger, and more corrosion resistant than steel
    • Urethane internal jounces require no maintenance and work well in hot or cold temperatures
  • Rustproof stainless steel components are durable and long-lasting
    • Exclusive upper and lower roll plates protect air springs from damage, extending the life of the suspension system
    • Braided air lines provide protection against sharp edges and flying debris better than nylon air lines
    • Air spring attachment hardware resists corrosion
  • Designed for heavy-duty applications such as 1/2-ton, 3/4-ton, and 1-ton pickup trucks
  • Compatible with most gooseneck and 5th-wheel hitches
  • Mounting brackets and hardware are included for installation
  • Manual inflation valves and air lines are included
    • Manual valves are typically mounted on bumper for easy access
    • Compressor system with in-cab gauges (sold separately) can be added to monitor and automatically adjust air pressure
  • Made in the USA


  • Load-leveling capacity: up to 5,000 lbs
    • LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus springs will not increase your vehicle's weight-carrying capacity. Do not exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight limit.
  • Adjustable air pressure: 5 psi - 100 psi
  • Lifetime warranty
  • 60-Day satisfaction guarantee

Note: When servicing your truck with Air Lift air springs installed, if the truck is lifted by the frame, the air must be let out of the springs. And if the rear of the truck is lifted during service, then it must be supported by jack stands to avoid damage to the air springs.

Durable, Rustproof Stainless Steel Components

This LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus air spring kit has rustproof stainless steel components that offer long-lasting durability. These components are the roll plates, braided air lines, and air spring attachment hardware.

Roll plates on Air Lift 5000 Ultimate air spring

The roll plates protect the air springs from damage and beef up their load capacity. These sturdy plates help guard the springs from moving parts under your vehicle that might puncture the air bags. The plates also provide a larger surface area for each spring to roll on. The extra surface area gives you a higher spring rate at a lower air pressure, resulting in a better ride.

The stainless steel air lines are tougher than nylon airlines and last a lot longer. They offer extra protection against damage caused by sharp edges and flying road debris.

And the air spring attachment hardware provides excellent corrosion resistance.

Get the Best of Both Springs

The air springs and jounce springs in this system work together to give you the best ride whether your truck is loaded or unloaded. Air Lift's LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus air springs have internal urethane foam jounces that protect the air springs and provide added ride comfort when your air pressure is low. The jounces also allow you to temporarily carry a load if the air springs lose air pressure. This gives your 1/2-ton, 3/4-ton, or 1-ton pickup truck air springs that are easier to maintain.

Air Springs Level Your Load

Carrying heavy cargo in your truck bed or trailer puts extra stress on your truck. Your brakes erode faster, your tires wear unevenly, and handling suffers severely. When towing, you might also experience excessive sway, bottoming out, and even inaccurate and unsafe headlight aim.

By pairing your existing suspension with LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus air springs, you can seriously beef up your suspension, ensure equal load distribution, and get the support you need. The springs provide up to 5,000 lbs of load-leveling capacity (depending on the weight-carrying capacity of your vehicle) and distribute the weight of your payload to all 4 wheels. As a result, the stress on your factory suspension is significantly reduced. LoadLifter's air bags are adjustable from 5 to 100 psi for precise support, and they can be inflated equally for front-to-back leveling or independently of one another for side-to-side leveling.

The air springs are made of high-quality, 2-ply, fabric-reinforced rubber. Most air bags lose air at the ends where the bag is enclosed with steel caps. These caps can rust and corrode over time, creating small holes. But the endcaps on Air Lift air bags are fashioned from corrosion-proof Zytel nylon, a material that is both stronger and lighter than steel, ensuring that the air bags won't lose air.

Built-In Jounce Springs Add Control and Comfort

Air Lift 5000 Ultimate air spring with jounce spring inside

The closed-cell urethane jounce spring inside each air spring gives you a more stable, comfortable ride. Each jounce acts as an overload spring and engages when your current air pressure level isn't enough to support your load. So on a rough road, the springs will kick in if needed to absorb bumps and shocks and help you to avoid bottoming out. When the jounces support a load, they adjust progressively - the more weight you pile on, the stiffer they become. The urethane material engages more smoothly than rubber jounces so you get a less jerky ride.

Because these jounces are taller than your factory jounce bumpers, they engage sooner than your factory jounces would to provide better support. And if the LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus air springs have insufficient or zero air pressure, the internal jounces will help to temporarily support your suspension and protect it from damage until you can repair or adjust the air spring system.


This system installs with the included brackets and hardware. Just mount the springs, inflate them, and ride. To inflate the LoadLifter springs, you just have to pump in air through the inflation valves. A line kit is included with the springs so that you can install the manual inflation valves (one for each spring). Any air line excess must be coiled up and secured out of the way, so it won't get damaged. The air line cannot be cut or trimmed. And the valves are typically mounted on the bumper but can be installed anywhere that is easily accessible. If you want to make the springs even easier to use, you can get a compressor and gauge system (sold separately) that allows you to monitor and adjust the springs from the cab of your truck.

Lifetime Warranty

Along with a lifetime warranty that has no mileage restrictions, Air Lift offers a 60-day satisfaction guarantee. Just install and use LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate springs for 60 days, and if you are not satisfied at the end of this time, you can remove and return them for a full refund.

89284 AirLift Load Lifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Bags with Internal Jounce Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Back Axle

AL89284 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details AL89284 Installation instructions

California residents: click here

Video of Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Rear Axle Air Springs Installation - 2018 Ford F-150

Today on our 2018 Ford F-150, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs for the Rear Axle, part number AL89284.As you can see, once we add our load to the back of the bed of the truck, we have a significant squat in the back, which is actually going to raise up the front end. That's going to cause a lot of different problems. The back end we're putting a lot of strain and stress on the suspension. We're not going to have as much travel as we normally do, and then on the front, it's actually pulling the front end up causing a teetering effect, so our headlights are misaligned. Our tires are not making as much contact as they should, which is going to diminish our steering and braking.Here's what our airbag looks like once we have it installed. It's going to fit in between the frame and the axle and provide us the support we need whenever we have a heavy load like a trailer, fifth wheel, gooseneck, or a heavy load in the bed.Now, with our airbags installed, we actually got our truck back to where it should be with only 40 PSI.

The back end's not sagging down as much and it's being supported a lot better. The front's right back where it should be also. The headlights are going to be aligned, and our tires are going to have a good contact on the ground, so we're going to have better steering and braking.Our air bags are designed to replace our factory jounce stops, and as you can see, they are quite a bit bigger and they're going to provide us a lot more support rather than the factory jounce stop just preventing it from bottoming out. Our springs are going to have the best of both worlds though. We're going to have the adjustability of the air bags, but they're also going to have an internal jounce bumper, so it's going to prevent any kind of bottoming out if we have low or no air in the bags.

The internal jounce bumper is going to be urethane, so it's not going to require any kind of maintenance once we have them installed. The air bag assembly itself is going to be a two-ply reinforced rubber, so it's going to have extra durability to it. Our air bags are going to have stainless roll plates as well as hardware, and the brackets are going to be steel with a black powder coat finish to help resist rust and corrosion.One thing that's going to set our kit apart is that they're going to give us these stainless steel braided lines. These are going to be a lot more durable than the nylon lines that normally come with most air bags. The nice thing about our air bags is that they are going to be compatible with most goosenecks and fifth wheels because of how our bracket is going to mount to the frame.

Our air bags are designed to support up to 5,000 pounds and they're going to have an operating air range between 5 psi all the way up to 100 psi. Now, keep in mind these are not designed to increase the payload of your truck. They're really just designed to help support that extra load.Our air bags are going to come with a manual inflation valve. That way we can inflate our bags easily where've we design to mount it. Now, it can be Y-ed off into one so you can connect both bags at the same time, or you can have two separate inflation valves so you can control side to side for those off-center loads.

There is an option to where we can adjust the pressure without ever having to get out of the cab, and that's going to be with a compressor kit that is sold separately.To begin our installation, we're going to start on the driver side. I do want to mention I went ahead and removed the spare tire mainly for head room. We're not going to have to pull it out, but it'll give you a little bit more room underneath. If we come to the rear axle, right above it we'll find our factory jounce stop. There's going to be a hole in the very bottom of it. You want to grab a short extension and a 13mm socket. We're going to reach up inside, and there's going to be a bolt that's holding it to the frame. We're going to want to undo that, so we can pull the jounce stop out. Once we have that removed, we'll remove the jounce stop and the bolt. These are not going to get reinstalled.Now we're going to grab the upper bracket. It's going to have two square holes on the end, small hole and a larger hole. It's also going to have this little tab right here. You want that tab to be on the inside of the frame, and the small hole is going to line up with the factory jounce stop bolt. So we'll lift it up, let it get halfway lined up and make sure it's nice and snug against the frame. Then we're going to take one of our bolts and a lock washer. We're going to go up through the frame once it's lined up, through the bracket, and into the factory hole where we took our jounce stop out. Make sure you get a couple of threads on there so it'll hold itself, we don't have to worry about the bracket falling down. Once the bracket's nice and snug against the frame, the tab against the inside and the bottom, against the bottom of the frame, you'll notice that, that large hole should be offset just slightly to the back behind the axle. We'll come back with a 17mm socket and tighten up that bolt.Now, if we move down to the bottom of our leaf spring pack, we're going to have a bolt that's holding these cables and this bracket in place. We're going to want to remove that bolt, so we'll take a 10mm socket and pull it out. Once the bolt is removed, we're going to take the bracket and just slightly pull it away for now; that way we just have room in between this bracket and the bottom of the leaf spring here.Now on the other side of our leaf spring towards the front of our truck, we're going to have a round hole and an oblong hole in the same spot. Now, the round hole's not going to be threaded. So we're going to grab one of the thread-cutting bolts from our kit. You'll see it's got that little notch in it. That's going to help cut the threads. We'll put it in. We're going to start it by hand; that way we know it's nice and straight. We're going to take a 13mm socket and run it in and out, so it'll cut the threads. Once you run it in and back out, you can see that it cut threads in there, so the bolts will easily go in and have threads to catch onto. We'll go and remove it and hold onto this bolt for now.Next, we're going to grab our lower bracket. The top section here's going to have three slotted holes, and then we're going to have these tabs sticking out. You want those tabs to be pulling towards the outside of the truck. We're going to lift it up over the axle, and you want to make sure you swing those tabs so they go around that bottom of the leaf spring there. Once we get it into position, it'll line up with those holes that we removed as well as the bracket. So we'll just get it loosely in place. Want to make sure you push it all the way against the leaf springs so everything lines up and it sits on the axle nice and straight.We'll line up the bracket so that we can take our new bolt. It's going to be a black flange bolt. We're going to go through the bracket that's holding all of our cables. We'll loosely get it started so it threads into the hole in the bottom of the leaf springs. Then on the front side, that bracket's going to line up, and we'll take the tap bolt that we used earlier and we'll put it in place. We'll come back with a 13mm socket and tighten both of those up. Then we're going to take our long carriage bolts and we're going to drop them down through the lower bracket, and we're going to have one that's going to be behind the axle tube and one that's going to be in front of it.Then we'll take our lower clamp here. That curved section's going to fit directly against the axle just like that. So we'll slide it so the carriage bolts are coming through. We'll put a flat washer on, and then we'll secure it down with a nylon lock nut. Now, for now I'm only going to get these hand tight just so I can get both of them in place. We're going to come back with a 9/16 socket and we're going to snug these up alternating between the two, so that we don't get them to bind, but we want it to be nice and snug against the bottom of the axle.We can go and assemble our bag now. We'll grab one air bag. You want to make sure the top, it's going to have three holes in it. You're going to have two threaded holes and then this third one. It's going to be sticking up a little bit. We'll take our roll plate, going to set it directly on top of the bag so everything kind of lines up. We can grab our inflation valve. Our inflation valve is going to go into the one that's kind of sticking up, put the roll plate so the large holes over that. We'll get it started by hand. Then we'll take a 1/2" wrench. We're going to tighten this down till that thread sealer is all the way in there. Once that's nice and snug, we can still move our inflation, so we'll just move it away from the two bolts.Now, we'll grab our upper bracket. These are going to be labeled. The driver side is going to have an L for left, passenger side is going to have an R. You'll notice it's going to have that small notch in there. That's going to fit around our inflation valve, and you want to make sure that this section is coming up and it's not turned around. You want to make sure that it's facing up, everything will line up, kind of have to move the plate a little bit. Then we'll take one of our 3/8 hex bolts. We'll follow it up with a lock washer and then a flat washer. Then we're going to go through the bracket through the roll plate and into the air bag. We're going to do that for both holes. We'll grab a 9/16 socket and tighten them up.Now, a quick tip, if you take this cap off the inflation valve, can actually press down on the air bag, which will let a lot of the air out, and then I'm going to put this cap back on and that'll hold it in a compressed position for a little bit. It won't allow it to expand back out.In order to get our air bags in place, we're going to have to have some room. So we're going to have to let the suspension hang down and kind of stretch apart a little bit. You can either lift it by the frame, so that the suspension will sag down, the axle can hang, or if you're on a lift like we have here, we're going to be lifting it by the frame at the back, so that we can just stretch that suspension out and get us a little bit more room.Now in the frame bracket, we'll have two square holes that are going to be towards the tire. We'll take our carriage bolts, the shorter ones in our kit. We're going to drop those down, they're hanging down below the bracket. We can take our air bag assembly. We're going to lift it up so that those holes on the end line up with our bolts, and you want to make sure that the inflation valve is towards the outside. Lift it up so the bolts drop through. We'll place on a flat washer and a lock nut on both of our carriage bolts. Then we can tighten those nuts down with a 9/16 socket.Now we'll take another roll plate, and we're going to slide it underneath our air bag, and the bottom's going to have two threaded holes just like the top for our roll plate except we're going to be going through the lower bracket through the roll plate and attaching it to air bag. We're going to use a 3/8 hex bolt, a lock washer, and a flat washer to secure everything.Now, if you have a big gap in between the lower bracket and your air bag, you're going to want to lower it back down to where they're just touching, so you can get the bolts through because they're not very long bolts. So you can see I'm not catching the bags. We're going to have to lower this down just a bit, so I can still move everything but they can reach. Then once you have enough room, then kind of slide the roll plate till everything's lined up, and we'll get those two bolts started by hand on the bottom. Once you have both bolts in place, we'll come back with a 9/16 socket and tighten it up. With this assembly in place, we're going to go and repeat that same process over on the passenger side.With both bags installed, we're ready to run our lines. Our kit comes with stainless steel braided lines. One end would go directly into the air bag. Fitting's going to look like that. You just thread it in till it's nice and tight. The other end is going to thread into the inflation valve where we decide to mount it. However, we're going to be using a compressor with our application, so we're not going to run these towards the back. Our kit's also going to come with an adapter for 1/4" push fittings. That's going to be a normal air line tube. If you need to extend the stainless steel lines out, you can thread it in place. Then we can take the included air line tube with the inflation valves already on there, cut it to length, and it'll snap right in place.We're going to be using the Air Lift Compressor. Now, this is going to mount to the frame somewhere, and we're going to be using these two holes. There is a U bolt that comes in the kit. Just need to make sure that it's big enough to go around the frame, or we can use this as a template and drill and put bolts into the frame.So we mounted our compressor on the passenger side frame rail on the outside of the frame since our exhaust is extremely close on this side. Now, the way we did it was we used our compressor bracket as a template. I marked the two holes and I drilled a 1/4" hole through and then took the self-tapping bolt and secured it to the frame. As you can see I'm shaking the whole truck, so it's a nice solid mount. Now we can get ready to install and route all of our air lines.If we come to the front of our compressor at the very bottom here, we'll have a 1/4" push connect fitting. We can grab our 1/4" air line. We're going to plug it in, and you want to push until it bottoms out, and give it a quick tug to make sure it locks in place. I'm going to go ahead and run these and hook them up to our air bags, and I'll show you how I did it.So, I ran my air line over to the frame and I used a lot of these holes that already exist to secure it against the frame, so it wouldn't move around too much. Then once I got to this rear body mount, I went over to the inside. Now, this is the air line coming from the compressor. You can see this is where we made all of our connections. Our air line coming from the compressor goes into a T. One end of the T is going to connect to our stainless steel lines with that included adapter that's with our air bags. The other side of the T is going to go into another T, and again, one side is going to connect to the air bags. But then this line we routed back towards the back till it got to the rear bumper here, and then I just routed down and over, and I mounted my manual inflation valve right there in the step. That way in case we ever lose power or our compressor's not able to run because of a dead battery or anything else, we can still inflate and deflate our air bags.With all of the air lines ran, now we just make our electrical connections. Coming off our compressor we're going to have this black wire with a ring terminal on it. That's going to be our ground wire. Now we're going to need to secure this directly to the frame. So I'm just going to route my wire away a little bit, have it kind of loop back to a nice solid point of the frame here. I'll take the included self-tapping screw and a 3/8 nut driver, and I'm going to go right into the frame. When you tighten it down, you want to make sure that ring terminal doesn't move on there, but it's not so tight that it'll strip it out.So now we can take our wiring harness. We're going to plug the plug in directly right here right above that air line fitting. Just want to make sure you have it lined up the right direction, push it in till it locks in place. Now, we'll have this red wire that has a terminal connection to it coming off the compressor. I want to cut that terminal off. I want to strip back the end of our wire. Take one of the included butt connectors in our kit and we'll crimp it in place.Now, this wire that we put our butt connector on is going to connect to the red wire with the white stripe that's coming off of the plug here. So, if we come down a little bit, we'll see that they're already going to have a good little bit of wire extended out, and it is pre-stripped. So we can take the end of the wire, put it into our butt connector. We'll crimp it down. We use a heat gun to shrink down the connector, but if you're using an open flame, like a torch or a lighter, you want to be extremely careful not to burn or char the connector or the wires.We need to run our wiring harness up to the engine bay. That way we can make our connections at the battery. So I would suggest going along the frame until you get to the top, and you'll want to watch out for any moving parts or any extreme heat sources that may damage the wire. I suggest running along the frame rail. That way we can stay away from any heat sources or moving parts, and then we get up top to the battery. I'll go ahead and run the wire and then I'll show you how I did it.I ran my wire across the top of the frame here, just zip tying it to some existing wiring and other spots. I came forward, and once I got to about the wheel well right here, I went over this body mount and I went straight up. That way I didn't have to deal with any of the suspension components right here. I actually just reached up and fed the wire up into the engine bay and then grabbed it from up top.My bundle of wires I just anchored it to this existing wiring close to the edge here; that way we don't have to worry about it falling back down. We're going to have plenty of wire to work with. We don't need all of this. So I'm just going to come a little bit past the battery because I know I can reach everything, and I'm going to trim all three wires about to where the hood goes. That way I know I have enough. We'll trim the excess off. Now, these are taped together, so you can just cut the tape apart so we can get access to each one of the wires individually.We're going to start with our black wire. We'll strip back the end of it. We'll take one of the ring terminals in our kit and we'll crimp it in place. Then we can come to the negative post on the battery. We'll take a 13mm socket and we're going to remove the nut right there. We'll slide the ring terminal over and we'll hook the negative back up. You want to make sure you put any of the other ones back on there if they happen to come off.Now, our red wire is going to be our power source. However, we want to make sure that we put a fuse in place to protect our circuits. We can take our fuse holder. It's going to be one continuous piece, so we'll just cut it in half, and we'll strip back both ends of the wire. On one end, we'll take a butt connector and we'll crimp it in place, and then on the other free end where we just stripped the other end of the wire, we'll take another one of our ring terminals and we'll crimp it off. Then we can cut the excess off of the red wire. We'll strip back the end and crimp that butt connector in place. At this point, you want to make sure that the fuse is not in the fuse holder yet. We'll lift up the cover on the positive post of our battery, and we're going to be hooking it directly to this connector right here. So we'll grab a 7/16 socket.We're going to have one more wire. It's going to be our pink wire. Now, this is going to be completely optional. You don't have to hook this up, but what this wire's going to do is it's going to hook up to an ignition source. That way every time we turn our key on, our compressor will kick on and double check all the pressures for everything, so you don't have to hit the remote. So, with that being said, if you want to leave it to where you have to use the remote, you can just put your fuse in, you're ready to go. But with our pink wire, the hardware to get it plugged into an ignition source does not come with our kit. So you may want to go to the auto parts store and pick up a fuse tap.We'll come to our fuse box, which is located right here. We'll go ahead and open it up and we'll remove the cover. We'll set it aside, and we're going to need to test each one of these fuses to see which one only has power when the key is turned on. So if I come to my fuse panel, we're going to have this row of several 10-amp fuses. We see this end one here is not going to have any power right now with the keys off. So I'm going to go and turn the key on and retest this fuse, double check that it does get power when the key is on. Now with the key in the on position, we can see that I am getting power to this fuse. So this spot right here would be a good spot to use for our fuse tap.I'm going to start by pulling the fuse out using a fuse puller or a pair of needle nose pliers. We're going to hold onto this fuse and then pick up another 10-amp micro fuse to go along with it. We're going to be using a fuse tap to get our power. So we'll take the factory fuse that we pulled out, and it's going to go closest to the terminals on the fuse tap. Then we'll take the new 10-amp fuse that we got and we'll put it right above that. So we'll make sure both fuses are fully inserted.Before we're plug it in, we'll take our pink wire, make sure we have enough to route it into the fuse box. Then we'll attach it to the butt connector. So just make sure you have enough wire and then we'll take our fuse tap. We're going to plug it in just like we would a normal fuse. We can just tuck our wire down so it's not going to interfere with the cover. Now we can go ahead and put our fuse in, and now would be a good time to go back and clean up any wires or any air lines that we need to, make sure everything's nice and secure.I'm going to take some soapy water. I'm going to spray down all my connection points, whether it be a T or the compression fittings. We're going to spray each one of those points down, and what we're looking for is we're looking for expanding bubbles. Obviously we're going to have a little bit of bubbles because it is soapy water, but we want to look for those expanding bubbles that are popping. If we have those, then we have a leak. So I'm going to finish spraying down the rest of the system and see if I have any.Here, right here you can see we have a leak because that's bubble's expanding, and eventually it will pop or more will come. That's how you know you have a leak, but if the soap is just sitting on the fitting and it's not expanding like this, then we're okay. Typically, if you have a leak at one of these push fitting connections, what you can do is just pull the hose out and then make sure that it's fully seated in there. That's what I did, and as you can see now, we don't have any leaks even if I start pulling on the lines and twisting them around. That'll finish up your look at the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Air Helper Springs on our 2018 F-150.

Customer Reviews

Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus Air Springs w/ Internal Bumpers - Stainless Steel - Rear Axle - AL89284

Average Customer Rating:  4.3 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

5,000-lb Capacity. These air springs have internal bumpers to provide the adjustable load support of air springs and the comfort and reliability of jounce springs. Durable stainless steel roll plates, air lines, and hardware are rustproof.

- AL89289

Review from a similar Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus in Vehicle Suspension

Very good delivery, waiting to install, have not opened box but first time from e/trailer that came box not damaged. You can put me down for follow up after I install and use. 583653

- AL89399

Review from a similar Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus in Vehicle Suspension

Love these airbags on my F250 towing our Fifth Wheel Toy Hauler. E-trailer is a great place to buy everything truck and trailer related. 604593

- AL89399

Review from a similar Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Ultimate Plus in Vehicle Suspension

High quality, excellent instructions, easy installation. Minor leak both sides, can not find. 656421


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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Leah B
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Written by:
Mary E
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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