Malone MegaSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer - 14' Long - 86" Crossbars - 1000 lbs

Malone MegaSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer - 14' Long - 86" Crossbars - 1000 lbs

Item # MPG550-LB

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This low bed trailer has 2 levels of storage so you can haul all your gear, including kayaks, canoes, cargo boxes, and bikes. The steel crossbars accommodate clamp-on accessories and have integrated anchor points. Includes wheeled jack stand. Lowest Prices for the best trailers from Malone. Malone MegaSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer - 14' Long - 86" Crossbars - 1000 lbs part number MPG550-LB can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Malone Trailers - MPG550-LB

  • Boat Trailer
  • Malone
  • 14 Feet Long
  • 1000 lbs
  • 2 Inch Ball Coupler

This low bed trailer has 2 levels of storage so you can haul all your gear, including kayaks, canoes, cargo boxes, and bikes. The steel crossbars accommodate clamp-on accessories and have integrated anchor points. Includes wheeled jack stand.


Features:

  • Heavy-duty, low bed trailer has 2 levels of storage so you can easily haul all your gear
  • Low profile design makes loading gear safer and easier
    • Lower level crossbars sit 25" off the ground
    • Upper level crossbars sit 56" off the ground
  • 86" lower-level crossbars are perfect kayaks, canoes, and longer, heavier gear
  • 58" top-level crossbars are perfect for cargo boxes, bikes, and smaller, lighter gear
  • Integrated D-rings provide anchor points to easily secure gear
  • Wheeled jack stand has manual crank for easy adjustments
    • Jack folds up and sits flush against tongue when not in use
  • Extended, reinforced tongue lets you transport boats up to 20' long
    • Also provides clearance for tight turns
  • Trigger-latch-style coupler attaches to a 2" ball
    • Lift handle allows for easy maneuvering while hooking trailer up to your vehicle
    • Skid plate keeps coupler off the ground when not in use
  • Available accessories (sold separately) let you customize trailer to your gear hauling needs
  • Heavy-duty leaf spring suspension system reduces shock from rough roads
  • Steel fenders help protect your gear from dirt, mud, and water
  • Submersible tail lights and side markers increase safety and visibility while towing
  • Marine-grade, galvanized steel construction resists rust and corrosion from salt water environments
  • Galvanized steel wheels have DOT- compliant tires
  • Assembly required - includes hardware, brackets, wiring, and safety chains
    • 4-Way flat trailer plug connects to vehicle
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Weight capacity: 1000 lbs
    • Top crossbars: 150 lbs
    • Bottom crossbars: 500 lbs
  • Maximum boat length: 20'
  • Crossbar spread: 68"
  • Overall dimensions: 14' 6" long x 86" wide x 56" tall
  • Coupler height: 16"
  • Coupler ball size: 2"
  • Trailer tongue dimensions: 2" x 3" x 90"
  • Wheel dimensions: 10" diameter
  • Wheel bolt pattern: 5 on 4-1/2"
  • Tire size: 20-1/2 x 8.0 x 10"
  • Tire load range: E
  • Speed Rating: 70 mph
  • Weight: 425 lbs
  • 5-Year warranty


MPG550-LB Malone MegaSport Low Bed 2 Boat Trailer w/2nd Tier - 1000 lbs



MPG550-LB Installation InstructionsInstallation Details MPG550-LB Installation instructions



Video of Malone MegaSport LowBed 2 Tier Trailer - 14' Long - 86" Crossbars - 1000 lbs


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Malone MegaSport LowBed 2 Tier Kayak Trailer Review and Installation

Jake: Hey, guys, it's Jake here with etrailer. Today we're going to be taking a look at the Malone MegaSport LowBed Two-Tier Kayak Trailer. Now, this is going to be a great tool to use when you're needing to haul more than just a single kayak or two kayaks on the roof of your vehicle and you still need to get other gear to where you're going. It's going to haul kayaks, canoes, and any other accessories that you might need to take on your trip.So, what's really going to set this apart from this other standard kayak trailers is your standard kayak trailer's just going to be a single level. Whereas this one is going to have that second level, which is going to give you more space. When you're hauling a kayak they do take up a lot of space, so you're not going to have any room to fit a bike rack or anything like that on the bottom.

Like you can see here, we have a cargo box up on top. And this is going to allow us to put our gear up here and our kayaks on the first level.As you can see here, we have our bike all loaded up. We're going to be able to fit a lot of different accessories on this top rail. As you can see, we got our bike, and our cargo box, and we still have room for one more bike on the other side. Now, one feature you'll see on this trailer and not a lot of other kayak trailers because there normally don't have a lot of weight to them.

This trailer has a little bit of weight to it, that's just because of how it's built.This jack with the wheel is going to allow you to move the trailer, loaded or unloaded wherever you need to and you're not going to have to lift up the tongue to move it around. The tongue of this trailer is going to be compatible with your two-inch ball. And this convenient handle that when you need to lift up a little bit more to get it hooked onto your trailer, that's there for your convenience.Now the tires on this trailer are going to be nice and wide. They're going to be eight inches wide and 20.5 inches tall. This is going to give you a really really smooth ride when hauling the trailer loaded or unloaded.

You're also going to have this leaf spring suspension to give you a smooth ride, along with those tires. Now, with this trailer, you are going to get a thousand-pound weight capacity, so you're going to be able to get those accessories and kayaks or canoes on here without having to worry about overloading your trailer.So, when you're all ready to load it up, make sure your latch is open, pull it up to your truck, and then latch it down. Make sure you don't forget to get your two safety chains hooked up, they give you more than enough length there to be able to run it to both sides. Once you have that hooked up, you're ready to hook up your wiring. In order to get your jack into the stowed position for travel, you pull on this latch, pull it out and tilt it back til it latches into place.

Now you can tie this handle up. I always like to just to make sure it's not swinging around. But that's all optional.You are going to have eight of these rings and one is going to be on each of the ends of your poles. They're going to help you to be able to tie down the fronts of your kayaks. Or, if you want to crisscross them in an X-pattern just to hold your kayaks down. They're also going to make for a great point to run a cable lock through if you want to throw a cable over top of your kayaks to ensure their safety.So, with this trailer, you're going to get real taillights that are going to signify when you're stopping, for others on the road. It's also going to have your blinkers. Here's your left and your right. And running lights. Now, with all that being said, let's go ahead and show you how to get this nice heavy-duty kayak trailer put together.Let's go ahead and show you installation. We're going to show you some different ways we did it to make it easier on ourselves and easier on you. So, when assembling your base frame, you want it upside down. That's why you'll see we have our bumper bracket here, upside down. And along with the rest of our brackets, you want that C-channel opening to be facing backwards. This is going to help up to not have to flip it over when we install the axle.And we're going to now take our bolts and nuts that are included and assemble all around the perimeter. So, in your four corners, and on three of the four center cross beams you're going to install your bolt and your nut. Now, this is the center crossbar we we're talking about that you don't want to secure because your one bolt is going to go through your tongue frame into this frame. Then you're going to want to use a 9/16ths socket and wrench to tighten down these bolts.Next, you're going to run your female end of your wiring harness through your frame. Now, you want to make sure you have these three holes here at the front because that's going to be where your hitch coupler is going to go. Just run it through. Find it a little bit easier if you sit in a chair and put the frame up on your leg and it'll actually be at a slope and you can slide it down. So, once you have your wire pulled through your frame, you can rest it on top of the first two supporting brackets because this is where we'll attach our other supports.Then you're going to want to install your tongue safety bolt. Let's go ahead and get our tongue rails in place. We have ours set in place with our bolts run through. So we can go ahead and put all our nuts and bolts in place and get them tightened down. Next, you'll want to take your rail, push it all the way forward. That's what that bolt is for, is to give you kind of a gage of where to put this bar at. And you're going to take this bracket, slide it up underneath so that your bolts can sandwich between the two of them. Put the other one on top and slide your bolts through, then tighten your nuts down. And you'll repeat that process for the other two brackets.Then we'll put our leaf spring brackets in place. You'll want the one with the eyelet on the front towards the front of the trailer. And then this one right here, on the back, that you'll slide the slanted part of the leaf spring into and then you can tighten those down. So, now we're going to assemble our plates with our U-bolts onto our axle. And this is what's going to secure our leaf springs. Make sure when you install them they're loose enough to wiggle around a little bit so that we can get it installed. So you just slide them into those brackets and set it into place.Then we'll insert our bolts to hold our leaf springs in place and tighten them down. Now that we've got our brackets in place, we can go ahead and tighten down our U-bolts. So, now you want to get your wheels in place. And when I'm tightening these lug nuts down, I like to go in a star pattern so that you know you're giving an even amount of pressure on all bolts. So then with a few extra hands, it does have some weight to it so you're going to want some help to lift it over.So, then you're going to want to tighten down your bolts to spec and you'll want to do the same for all five on each side. Then you'll put your lights on these proper brackets here and sit your bolts on the side and tighten them down. Make sure you get your license plate bracket in there before you tighten those nuts down. Your side marker lights are going to be inserted in the hole that's provided up here. And then you'll slide your wires through the hole right next to the bolt hole.And then you're going to connect your second wiring harness in your kit and run it through the end of that a little bit, and then you're going to run it back to your two side marker lights and back to your taillights. And then, take your clamps here to clamp your wire up onto the rail all along the side of the trailer. And then the next thing you're going to want to do is install your fenders. You're going to have two brackets that you install. And our little tip, is just install these brackets on the fenders first and then bolt them down to your frame.So, per your instructions, you're going to insert this stop so that your coupler doesn't hit the ground. And then you're going to insert this bolt to hold the chains and this bump stop in place. Then you're going to take two of your longer bolts and nuts and install your handle and your coupler. You're going to take the shortest tube out of your kit and pair it with the large C-clamps. It'll go over the rail and into the tube and then you'll tighten down those two nuts.Then you'll take your bracket, looks like this, slide your tube through and then slide this over and insert your two bolts and do the same for the front crossbar. So then you're going to take your four, 34 inch long tubes with the single hole at the bottom and the double hole in the top. Make sure you match up that single hole to the rear because it's going to go in this hole here. And you just slide it down in between. And then tilt it over until it touches this bolt.Now here, up on our front crossbeam, we are going to have to remove these two nuts in order to get our vertical support in place. You see, we already did that. Run your center support up and connect it up here at the top. And then go ahead and tighten down all those bolts. Once you get your vertical support bolted down at the bottom. Leave this bolt out right here because it's going to have to go through all of these brackets and two washers on the inside to be able to get this whole assembly together.You're going to have these U-shaped brackets that are going to have three holes total in them. Here, here, and then one over here. And you're going to get two bolts in the end of your cross-member tube to go to the back of your trailer. And then you're going to have the same bracket on the other side. That bracket is going to slide in between your vertical tube and your horizontal tube going to the back of the trailer. But once you get all three of those bolts tightened down, then you can move to the back and do the same.Then we'll take our brackets, the one side is just going to be a spacer for the other side. It's gonna have three holes in it, it's going to be a triangle shape. And then the other side is going to have a little angled piece for our top-crossbar. Go ahead and get your three bolts in each one of these. You're going to have two on the back and two on the front. And get it tightened down.Now, after you get those assemblies tightened down, you can get your two top crossbars in place. Now, if you want to adjust the top crossbars to be closer or further apart, you just have to loosen those three nuts on that side and scoot the whole assembly forward or backwards. And this piece here is going to be a support to sandwich in between these two poles to just give it more stability.Then you're going to get you D-rings installed on the ends of your bars. There's going to be eight total. Then put your end caps in the appropriate size tube. And you're ready to hit the road.

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Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Edited by:
Daron K
Written by:
Jessie B
Installed by:
Jacob H

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