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Malone MicroSport LowBed Trailer - Galvanized Steel - 13' Long - 78" Crossbars - 800 lbs

Malone MicroSport LowBed Trailer - Galvanized Steel - 13' Long - 78" Crossbars - 800 lbs

Item # MPG464-LB

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Malone Trailers - MPG464-LB
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  • Boat Trailer
  • Malone
  • 800 lbs
  • 13 Feet 3 Inches Long
  • 2 Inch Ball Coupler
This low bed trailer lets you haul 800 lbs of gear, including canoes, kayaks, SUPs, and cargo boxes. 78" crossbars offer plenty of space to mount accessories and provide anchor points. Marine-grade galvanized steel resists corrosion. Lowest Prices for the best trailers from Malone. Malone MicroSport LowBed Trailer - Galvanized Steel - 13' Long - 78" Crossbars - 800 lbs part number MPG464-LB can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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Malone Trailers - MPG464-LB

This low bed trailer lets you haul 800 lbs of gear, including canoes, kayaks, SUPs, and cargo boxes. 78" crossbars offer plenty of space to mount accessories and provide anchor points. Marine-grade galvanized steel resists corrosion.


Features:

  • Low bed trailer with 2 steel crossbars lets you haul gear behind your vehicle
    • Perfect for bikes, kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddle boards, and cargo boxes
  • Low profile design makes loading a heavy kayak safer and easier
    • Crossbars sit 22" off the ground
  • 78" Square crossbars offer plenty of space to mount clamp-on accessories
    • Integrated D-rings provide anchor points to easily secure gear
  • Extended, reinforced tongue lets you transport boats up to 20' long
    • Also provides clearance for tight turns
  • Trigger-latch-style coupler attaches to a 2" ball
    • Lift handle allows for easy maneuvering while hooking trailer up to your vehicle
    • Skid plate keeps coupler off the ground when not in use
  • Available accessories (sold separately) let you customize trailer to your gear hauling needs
  • Leaf spring suspension system reduces shock from rough roads
  • Steel fenders help protect your gear from dirt, mud, and water
  • Submersible tail lights and side markers increase safety and visibility while towing
  • Marine-grade, galvanized steel construction resists rust and corrosion from salt water environments
  • Galvanized steel wheels have DOT- compliant tires
  • Assembly required - includes hardware, brackets, wiring, and safety chains
    • 4-Way flat trailer plug connects to vehicle
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Weight capacity: 800 lbs
    • Crossbar capacity: 500 lbs
  • Maximum boat length: 20'
  • Crossbar spread: 44" - 63"
  • Overall dimensions: 13' 3" long x 78" wide x 22" tall
  • Coupler height: 18"
  • Coupler ball size: 2"
  • Trailer tongue dimensions: 2" x 3" x 90"
  • Wheel dimensions: 12" diameter
  • Wheel bolt pattern: 5 on 4-1/2"
  • Tire size: 4.80-12"
  • Tire load range: C
  • Speed Rating: 75 mph
  • Weight: 230 lbs
  • 5-Year warranty


MPG464-LB Malone MicroSport LowBed 2 Boat Trailer - 800 lbs



MPG464-LB Installation InstructionsInstallation Details MPG464-LB Installation instructions


California residents: click here


Video of Malone MicroSport LowBed Trailer - Galvanized Steel - 13' Long - 78" Crossbars - 800 lbs


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Malone MicroSport LowBed 2 Boat Trailer Review and Assembly

Hey everyone. I'm Collin here at eTrailer.com. Today we're going to take a look at the Malone Micro Sport low bed trailer. This trailer is a nice accessory for your vehicle. It's going to allow you to get any of the excess cargo, any of that bigger equipment, like our kayaks to your destination. If you just don't have enough space in your vehicle, like our Jeep right there, or if your roof rack is taken up by other stuff like our bikes.Now, a couple of things that set this trailer apart from a lot of others out there is it is going to sitting lower to the trailer, unlike the Micro Sport normal one, which sits about a good foot, and a half up higher than this one is.

It comes in handy for loading and unloading. You're not going to have to lift those biggest equipment, like our kayaks or even canoes up on to the trailer. You can be able to keep it at waist level to get it loaded, less strenuous on your back as well.Another great feature is that it's also going to be sitting lower, like I said, which gives you full visibility out of your rear window while you're driving. If it was sitting that foot to foot and a half higher, the kayaks would take away a lot of that visibility so we can't see what's behind us.Another really great feature I really like about this trailer is that it's very light weight and easy to handle. You're not going to need any extra hands to get it moved.

Just to get it off the trailer, pull that latch up on the coupler, you have this nice handle that's integrated on to the coupler, just pull it up, and even with that load, very easily I can move it around and put it where ever I need to.Another great feature about this trailer is that it is offered with a second tier option to add, so you'll have two crossbars above the two kayaks we have loaded and we can get any excess cargo or gear up there, whether we got a cargo box to put our luggage in, or we can get more bike racks or another kayak up there.Overall, this trailer is going to be very handy. It's got a wide variety of uses, not only is going to be able to carry our kayaks, but you can carry a wide variety of other sports and recreational equipment or other stuff to help haul your cargo. Just really going to make life a lot easier when trying to take all your stuff on a trip, and you're not going to have to make those tough decisions about what to leave behind.I'm going to go ahead and unload the kayaks, but first I want to show you guys how easy it is to get this stuff unloaded. Instead of having to reach up on top of your roof to get your kayaks down, where you might need an extra set of hands, or even that foot, foot and a half higher of the Micro Sport trailer, this one I can just get my arm right under it and get it right up and off.The entire frame, along with the crossbars of our trailer is going to be made from an 11 gauge pre-galvanized steel construction, so it is going to be lightweight and durable, as well as be rust and corrosion resistant. Now, crossbars are going to be 78 inches in their width, so it's going to be plenty of so there's going to plenty of space to get multiple accessories or cargo on top of the trailer.

We're also going to have these D ring tie down points at each corner of the crossbar for securing our cargo.Now, I'm going to go ahead and give you some measurements so you can get an idea of the space this will take up for store purposes and for when you're hauling it. The overall length of the trailer is going to be 13 feet and three inches, so just about the length of a jet ski trailer, maybe a little longer, maybe a little shorter, depends on the jet ski. The width of the trailer with the crossbars on is going to be 78 inches, while if you don't have the crossbars installed, it's going to be 55 inches. It's also going to be sitting about 22 inches off the ground. It does have a weight capacity of 800 pounds, which is more than enough to get your kayaks or canoes loaded and strapped down.It's going to have two 12 inch wheels with tire size ST145R12.

It is going to be rated for highway speeds. That tire size is also going to come in handy for if you need to pick up a spare tire, we also sell spare tire mounts here at eTrailer that you can have with you at all times. We also have two leaf springs that are mounted to the axle of our trailer, which is going to help absorb a lot of the impact and a lot of the vibration you would get when traveling at high speeds.Now, our middle support crossbar is going to be mounted to the frame of our trailer using these U bolts with the brackets on bottom. We have that tightened down so that it's secure. We also have these brackets connecting our long crossbars to our support bars, when all that is tightened down, it's just really going to be very supportive, very durable and just hold up to all that use.Our coupler up front is going to fit any two inch size ball mount, it's also going to have this nice handle that I talked about with the nice rubber grip to assist you with moving it around. We're going to have our safety chains, which are connected under here with our stopper. When you want to unhook your trailer, what you're going to do is unplug the wiring, take your two safety chains off, I usually like to wrap these around the frame of the tongue right there, from here you want to pull up on that lock, that is also a nice feature when it's locked in to place, it's not going to be able to bounce up off of our ball mount. We unlock it, we can pick it up, and again that stopper is going to be able to set on top of and hold the weight of the trailer.The submersible LED lighting system is going to be DOT compliant in all 50 states and in transport Canada. We are going to have a light under our driver's side tail light to help light up our license plate so it is visible. The whole trailer itself is submergible, just like the lights, so you can back it down the boat ramp to release your canoes or kayaks off your trailer rather than carrying them to the water.Now, that we've gone over some of those features, let's show you how to get it put together. Now, per the instructions, we have our frame laid out for the trailer in the formation that it specifies. One thing I do want to make sure you guys know is that you want the trailer upside down to start, so you see the Malone sticker is upside down. This is going to make assembly a lot easier for when you get to the tires, you going to be able to flip it right over after you get those installed.First thing you want to do is get your spring hanger brackets set in the right place, going to be on the top of the frame right here. The open U shaped bracket is going to be towards the front of the trailer, while the C shaped one is going to be at the back. The hardware is included. If you're worried about what hardware to use at certain steps in the process, in the instructions it does tell you the bag number of hardware to use for each specific step. As long as you look at those, you're going to be all right when getting the hardware together.Drop the bolt in right there. Bring the nut on the other side, just get it threaded. Now, we'll just grab our nine-sixteenths socket and wrench and tighten it down. Now, quick little tip, when you first get your brackets installed, you want to make sure that the frame cross member right here is on the other side of them, it will just be a lot easier to get it in place to slide in without those bolts being in the way.Now, we've gone up to the front of the trailer, how you know that you have this in the right configuration with that being the tongue, is you need the three hole side upside down on the left driver's side. Now, what we're going to do is take our plug and our wiring and drop it through the top and feed it all the way back. You can push it like this, or if it's easier you can go ahead and pick up this side of the tongue and just let gravity do its job. You do want to make sure you leave enough excess at the top so that the wiring can reach the back of the vehicle.Here at the back, we'll just pull it all the way through until we deem we have enough at the front. Now, we also need to pass our wiring through our rear tongue support bracket, should be facing this way, that little indent is where the rear of our tongue is going to go. We'll just take our plug, pass it through all the way up to this point. Now, throughout this process, it's going to be a good idea to get all of your frame ends lined up as you go. You can see right here, we have the two integrated holes. That's going to be for these two at the front of our frame. Also same back here with our rear support bracket, the two holes on the ends, right here, going to go down here.Now, we're going to take that rear support bracket, put it on the rear of our tongue and we'll grab the four and a half inch bolts, bring it up from the bottom, all the way through, and then a flat washer and a lock nut, go ahead and thread that on. You really want to make sure you get only hand tools, we don't want to use power tools right here, so we just have this socket and wrench and we'll tighten it down.From here, we're going to get our rear support bracket lined up with the holes on our frame, we need to scoot it up. Just make sure we get it all in line. Once you have the frame support lined up with the holes, going to install the carriage bolts and then apply flat washers to both and then lock nuts to both. We're going to grab our wrench and tighten it down. Make sure you don't use any power tools, they're just supposed to be hand tightened. Repeat this process for the other side.From here, we're going to go ahead and take our three-quarter inch bolts, apply flat washer, bring it through the frame and the rear of the tongue. Should be lined up correctly, if not you may have to go back and loosen up the tongue and support bracket bolts. Just bring it all the way through to the other side. From there, take another flat washer, put it on the bolt and a lock nut, and then tighten it down. Do the same thing for the other bolt.Now, we're going to get the cross members in place. Again, we already have that front one installed from when we put the brackets on, to help out for this step. You want to make sure that the rear one has that Malone sticker and again, make it upside down, because right now we're installing the trailer upside down. Going to slide it in place, this one is going to be at the very back. Get it just even, here we go. Line up the holes correctly. Now, with both cross members lined up with the holes, we're going to take our carriage bolts, feed both through. We're not going to need washers for these, so once you get both the carriage bolts through, just grab your lock nuts and thread those on. I'm going to go around and get all of these pre-installed and then tighten them down all at once. Just going to grab my wrench, make sure you hand tighten these down and just going to go around and tighten them all down.Now, we have our axle and spring assembly. We're going to go ahead and get the spring attached to our axle. All we're going to do is take this center nut and get it in the center hole that's pre-assembled into our axle. Getting the first one installed, there's no specific way you have to set the spring, just make sure you get the other one set the same way. From there, we're going to set our plate on top and bring our U bolts up and through. Just going to thread on our lock nuts, do the same for the other side.From here, we're going to hand tighten it. Just grab our wrench, tighten down. We're not going to tighten it down all the way until we have each bolt and nut down all the way. Now again, you just want the nuts touching the plate. You're going to want have the spring to wiggle, have that wiggle room so you can get it in place later. Once they make contact with the plate, we want the next one. Make sure you get that the same way.You can see right now, my spring cannot wiggle, that means I over tightened on one of them, which I'm pretty sure it's this one, loosen that and see what happens. Yep. Right there. Have the wiggle room, and now just repeat this process for the other spring, and again, make sure you get the spring facing the same way as this one.Now, we're going to set our spring and axle assembly into place. We're going to have the flat edge of the spring in the C bracket and then the rounded part in the U bracket. We'll slide that flat part in. This is where the wiggle room comes into play, just so you can move it around, adjust it as you see fit. Just make sure you line up all the holes. Once we have our spring into place, we're going to get that I lined up with the holes on our bracket, slide that bolt all the way through, grab a lock nut, get it on there. When you tighten down, you're only going to go until it's making contact with the face of this bracket, so don't use any power tools, just grab a socket wrench.When tightening this down, it's a good idea just to keep the socket a little bit off of the lock nut right there, just so you can see when it makes contact. Make sure you keep that side pushed down as well. There we go, now repeat this process for the other side.Now, we're going to have our spring and axle assembly attached to our frame. We're going to go back and tighten down the U bolts to our plate. The easiest way to do that is just to do a couple turns on each bolt until so it gets as even as possible. We're going to go until we have a slight bend on our tie plate. See, we have that slight bend on our plate Just repeat this process for the other side.Now, we're going to get our tires installed onto our axle. We're first going to take this hub cap, we snapped in the cap onto the hub, we're going to push it through like so from the back, then we're going to grab it, get it lined up with the bolts on our axle. You may have to lift up a little bit on the frame. Once you have all the bolts through the holes, we're just going to thread on our lug nuts. We're only going to hand tighten the lug nuts for now.Now, we're going to go down and tighten down all of our lug nuts, there is a certain specification that they want them torqued to. It's in the instructions. If you have a wrench like this one, where you can have it set to that certain amount, that's good. If not, just tighten it down pretty snug in a star pattern. We've already gone in a star pattern. This is our last one, so we're just going to tighten it down to the specifications. There we go. Then just repeat this process for the other side.Now we're going to attach the brackets that will hold our rear lights. What we're going to do is just line up with these two holes right here, insert our carriage bolts on both sides. We want to make sure you get that square lined up and then we'll take lock nuts and thread them on both sides. Then we'll just tighten them down all the way. You'll need to remove the hardware from your lights, go ahead and insert it into the slots right there. You want to make suer that the wires for your light are on top, and we'll thread those nuts back on as tight as you can get them. Now we'll just tighten down. No need to over tighten, just get it pretty snug. Now we'll move onto the other side.The driver's side is going to install the exact same way, the only difference being is to have it set up for the license plate holder to go under the driver's side light, there is going to be a light underneath it so that you are illuminating your license plate. The only thing you just want to make sure you do is get the license plate on to these bolts of the light before you put those nuts back on.Now, we'll move on to the amber side lights. You want to make sure you take off that hardware real quick. Now, what's going to happen is this center of bolt is going to go through that center hole, you want to feed the wires one through each. The easiest way to do it to where you're going to get a flush look is to have this white wire go through that hole, and you want to make sure you tuck that brown wire into the backing right here so that it that the light will set flush on the trailer. You want to be careful about that. Feed it through, and you want to hold it there and pull the wires through. And again, you want to make sure that it's going to stay flush. You can kind of feel around on the bottom as long as it feels flush, then we'll grab the bolt and put it on the other side. Tighten it down all the way with your hands, then just grab your wrench, tighten it down all the way. No need to over tighten, just get it very snug. Then repeat this process for the other side.Now, with the wiring that's in the tongue of our trailer, we're going to take the other wiring harness and connect it. We're going to take the side with the green, white and brown wires and we're going to route that through the passenger side back to the tail light. We're going to go through the cross members, we're going to have to go one lead at a time, there's going to be a hole back on the corner of the cross member. You can just insert the lead through there, you're going to have to go one at a time. Go ahead and just pull it through like so. We're going to have to get these other white and brown ones through as well. Might be a little more tricky because the wires already through, but just take your time. Now we're going to go back and make our connections at the tail light.You can see we've brought the tail light wires through that slot right there, we'll make our connections. You should go green to green, white to white and brown to brown. We're going to back up and also connect the amber light, white to white and brown to brown. We'll do the same to the driver's side.We're also going to get a lot of these clips right here. This is going to be helpful for securing your wire to the rail so it's not kind of flopping around at all while you're traveling. All you got to do is you want it spun to the right way to where the smaller end is going to go on the rail right here. We're going to just take the wire, put it up through there like so, and we'll snap it on. You're going to get 10 of these and you can put them where ever you choose. I would put five on the passenger side and then five on the driver's side.We've gone ahead and assembled our fender. We just took two of the brackets and used these flat headed carriage screws and then we took the nuts and tightened them down all the way. From here, it's going to go on the side right above our tire. Just like this over the hole. And then, we're going to take a flat washer with the hardware, feed it through. It might be easier just to go ahead and get on through. Set the other side of the fender down on the tire. Take a flat washer and a lock nut and put it on that side. Just tighten that down. And then, lift up the other side once you have it threaded and do the same thing. Now, we'll go ahead and just tighten it down all the way.We're going to get our safety chains assembled at the tongue of our trailer. It's going to be easiest to do this if you can get it up on a jack or something like that, just prop it up in the air so you don't have to pick it up. All we're going to do is take our bolt right here, put a flat washer on it, feed it through the last link of one of our safety chains, then we're going to put another flat washer on, kind of like sandwiching it and then go through the other safety chain like so, we're through both chains, then we're going to grab our bracket right here. It's going to sit just like this, this little notch is going to go in the second hole, which is down there.We'll just bring that bolt up through, make sure you get the other part of the bracket into that notch. And then, on the inside of the tongue we're going to take the lock nut and we're going to thread that on. Now we'll just grab our socket and wrench and tighten it all the way up. You do want to make sure you keep that bracket in its slot. It could be a little difficult to do until you get it tightened up. No need to over tighten, just get it pretty snug.Now we're going to get our coupler installed. All we've got to do is set that on top of the tongue of our trailer. We're also going to install the handle with it. You can choose whatever side you want it to go. Doesn't necessarily matter, but we're just going to make sure with line it up with the coupler. We're going to grab our hardware, slide it through, and take our two lock nuts and thread those on. And then tighten it down. You want to tighten down until you don't feel any or hear any wobbling or rattling around. You will have to tighten it down until the coupler is sort of pinching down on the tongue right there. Don't over tighten though, if you over tighten it and warp the tongue at all, that will compromise the functioning of your coupler.One thing I do want to point out is that Malone only includes their Micro Sport instructions, not for the Micro Sport low bed. In the instructions it's going to ask if you have the bar which has a curve coming up kind of raising the height of the bed, instead it's going to be these straight bars. Once you get the rear bar installed, it's just going to sit on that rear support frame right there. The second one, which is more towards the front, is going to sit 48 inches from that spot. Doesn't have to be exact, just get it as close as you can. We'll measure.I'm measuring from the front of that bar to the back of this one, and you do want to make sure you measure on both sides so you get the bar to be straight. Before you tighten down your U bolts all the way, don't be afraid to double check your measurements.Now, we're just going to set the U bolt over top the bar, it's going to kind of go diagonally on the bar, around the frame right here. Now, we're going to bring our bracket up on to the bolt. You do want to make sure you avoid any of those clips if you have them in that direction. We're going to put our lock nuts on. Then repeat this process for the other side.Now, on both sides we're going to tighten up the U bolts until they're just making contact with the frame right there and they're flush with it. We don't want to tighten it all the way just yet because we want to go back and make our measurements to make sure that the cross bar is still straight. There, now we got some wiggle room. Now, repeat this process for the other side.Like I said, we're going to go back and measure again, we just want to make sure that our two cross bars are straight and they're going to be parallel to each other. There we go. One other thing I want to make sure you guys know is that you do want to measure your overhang on both sides to make sure that it's even. You can kind of pick whatever point you want to. I'll just go to the edge of this U bolt and measure up to there and I'll do that for both sides to make sure that it's even. There we go, it's even. Now we can go ahead and tighten down on U bolts all the way.We're going to get our top crossbars in place. They're not actually going to sit on top of the U bolts like it is right now, it's just a nice starting point so it can have somewhere to sit. You do want to make sure that the pre drilled holes are on the sides and not the top and bottom. Now, we're going to go in closer towards the trailer, to these side holes in the bottom crossbar. Going to set that bracket down on top like so. We're going to feed this bolt through that slot and out the other side. We're going to put a lock nut on it. We need to raise up this bar, put the bolt under it like so. It's going to sit on top of that bolt and then thread the lock nut on. Then do this for the other side.Before we tighten it down all the way, we're going to measure our overhang to make sure that's even on both sides. Once you've made those adjustments, go ahead and just tighten it down all the way. Once you have everything tightened down, just repeat this process for your other bar.Last thing we need to do is go ahead and get our D rings installed so we have some tie down points for whatever we want to load. The easiest way to do this is we're going to first feed the bolt through the D ring. You're going to want the side with the four little indents right there to be touching the crossbar. What we're going to do is slide our lock nut in, now we're just going to take the bolt and begin to thread it on. Once you get it down as far as you can get it, the directions suggest getting a screwdriver and getting it under your lock nut to hold it in place, however we found that it's easier if you just get a pair of needle nose pliers, just going to slide it in so we can grip the top and bottom. If you just use that screwdriver, you could grind away at the sides of your lock nut and could just make it very hard to get out.Once you have a grip on that, we're just going to take our wrench and then tighten it down. Don't forget to put your end caps on. You're going to have four small ones for the four crossbar ends. It goes in pretty easy. Just once you get it in, give it a little force, push it all in like so. You're also going to have four bigger ones to put on the crossbar support ends right here. It's going to go on the same way.Thank you all for watching. That's going to do it for our look at Malone Micro Sport low bed trailer. Hope this helped.

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    Info for this part was:

    Video by:
    Andrew K
    Video Edited:
    Jacob T
    Installed by:
    Colin H
    Edited by:
    Daron K
    Written by:
    Jessie B

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