Hopkins Powered Tail Light Converter w/ 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector for Negative Input Vehicles

Hopkins Trailer Wiring - 36345

Convert your vehicle's lighting system to match that of your trailer with this kit. It includes a 60" 4-way flat harness, wire taps, and a power wire that pulls power directly from your battery. Designed for vehicles with a low-side switch.

Features:

• Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
  • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole, and 7-pole adapters
• Ensures that your vehicle's wiring matches that of your trailer
• Avoids overloading your vehicle's electrical system by connecting directly to your battery
  • Power wire and fuse kit included
• Designed with safety in mind
  • Guards against electrical shorts and mis-wire situations
• Splices into your vehicle's wiring with included quick-splice connectors
  • Color-coded wires ease installation
• Includes durable, molded-rubber, female output socket with protective dust cover

Specs:

• Application: vehicles with 2-wire or 3-wire electrical systems that have a negative input
• 4-Way harness length: 60"
• Splice-in wire length
  • Brown, red, yellow: 11"
  • Green: 71"
• Ground wire length: 17"
• Power wire length: 20'
• Max amperage: 8 amps per circuit
• Wire gauge: 14
• 90-Day limited warranty

Do I Need a Tail Light Converter?

Some vehicles operate on a 3-wire system, wherein the brake signal and the turn signals run on separate wires to illuminate different lights. (Typically, these vehicles have amber turn signals.) But most trailers run on a 2-wire system, which means the brake and turn signals travel along a single wire. You'll notice that, on your trailer, the brake light will flash for the turn signals.

If your vehicle operates on a 3-wire system, it will need to be converted so it will be compatible with the wiring system of your trailer. This is where a tail light converter comes into play. This converter lets you combine the brake and turn signal functions of your vehicle so they run on a single wire to properly activate your trailer's tail lights.

Powered by Your Battery

This converter won't overload or cause damage to your system because it pulls power straight from your vehicle's battery. So you can be sure that your trailer lights will activate no matter what type of bulbs your vehicle has - or your trailer, for that matter.

Powered Converter Installation

This kit comes with all the wiring you'll need to convert your vehicle's lighting system to match your trailer's. The powered converter box has splice-in wires on one end and a harness with a 4-way flat vehicle-end connector on the other. It also comes with a power wire that will connect to your battery so your electrical system doesn't get overloaded.

To begin the installation, use a circuit tester (sold separately) to double-check the function of each wire on your vehicle's tail light wiring harness. The color/function of the splice-in wires on this converter may not match the color/function of those on your vehicle, so you'll want to be sure to check all of the wire functions first. Because this is a converter for negative input vehicles, be sure to use a circuit tester with reversible polarity.

Once you've figured out the functions of your vehicle's wiring, use the included quick-splice connectors to connect the corresponding wires on the trailer connector. Quick-splices, or "wire taps" offer a quick way to make connections without you having to strip and twist wires. Just place the wires in one of the taps and snap the cover down.

Using double-sided tape, stick the converter box to a flat surface inside your vehicle near the tail lights. It's helpful to clean the surface first so the tape can adhere fully.

Once the converter box is spliced in, you need to run the power wire up to your battery. Be sure to remove the fuse before connecting anything so you don't blow it! You can put it back in once everything has been installed. To hook up to your battery, you'll need to disconnect the negative cable from your battery and attach the power wire to the positive terminal with the included ring terminal.

Find a raw, unpainted metal surface to use as a grounding point and secure the white ground wire using the provided ring terminal and a self-tapping screw (sold separately). Cleaning the surface before securing the white wire will ensure the converter is fully grounded. If you have a 2-wire system, the red brake wire will need to be grounded as well. You can do that in the same way, using an extra ring terminal (sold separately). Finally, secure the converter wires to your vehicle using included cable ties.

Quick Tips:

• Butt connectors - especially heat-shrink ones - provide the most secure, longest-lasting connection, so we'd recommend you grab a few and swap them out for the quick-splices in this kit.
• Use a circuit tester on the plug terminals once the harness is installed to make sure everything's working. There's nothing worse than figuring out that you have a bad ground or a faulty connection right before you're about to hit the road.
• Be sure to put a little bit of dielectric grease on the 4-way plug to protect the terminals from dirt, grime, and corrosion.

46345 Hopkins Vehicle Wiring Harness with Vehicle End 4-Pole Connector and Powered Converter for Low Side Switches - 5' Long

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

• 2003 - 2003 Ford Windstar Models built After October 2002