Aero Pro Trailer Light Kit for Trailers Over 80" Wide - Waterproof - Passenger and Driver Side

Video Transcript for Optronics Waterproof Trailer Light Kit Installation

Today we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Optronics Waterproof Arrow Pro Trailer Light Kit with the 25 foot wiring harness. Part number is TL36RK. Now, most oftentimes you're going to be replacing existing wiring on a trailer. You can see this one has just kind of been run over and torn up, maybe you've got a break somewhere in your wiring that's causing shorts and you just need to eliminate that. This kit does an excellent job in offering a complete wiring replacement, so we're not going to replace our plug and then down the road going to have to replace this light, and down the road replace the other light. This is going to give us a complete, brand new set up that we know will work for us. Now here's our kit once we pull it out of the package.

As you can see, we're going to have our seven way function light, which is going to light up the license plate. That'll be on the driver's side. Got our six function light, that's for our passenger side. Now, these lights are going to give us break, running lights, and turn signals. Got our side clearance lights, license plate bracket, and the wiring we'll need to make our connection. Now, one side you see here is going to be the truck side.

That's the one that's only going to have the exposed ground. Then if you decide, you can connect this directly to your vehicle's signals. If you already have a four pole plug on your vehicle you can eliminate this, set it aside in case you ever need it down the road. The other plug's going to be for our trailer. Now, this is a split Y harness, so this is designed for marine applications. The green with the tan wire goes down the passenger side of the trailer.

The yellow with the tan wire, it's going to go down the driver's side of the trailer. That's our left turn and brake running lights, then we've got our right turn and brake with running lights. Also has the ground wire there, connect it to an existing bolt or use a self tapping screw with a ring terminal to secure it on your own. Your side marker lights also. These are going to bolt directly onto the trailer, and that'll give us marker lights that we need there on the side.

These are jumper wires to plug into the back of the lights to ensure they work. Also have a couple of pads designed to fit in behind there to offer a little bit of protection. Now, with the harness that we have here on the trailer now, we're going to use our wires to pull through our new wires. We'll get those cut off, and we'll tape our new green and brown wire off to the old, and we'll do the same thing for the yellow and brown. Now the last thing we'll do with our old plug is remove it from wherever it's grounded. You'll see on the side of our trailer here where the side marker lights used to be. If yours are still there you want to get those removed. If not, if you've got wires hanging out like this or a grommet, it's time to cut these off, hang onto your grommet, that way we can put those back in place. Now, on the back side of our old lights we want to take off the two nuts that are holding the light in place. Pull off our old license plate bracket. Now we'll just begin to gently pull on the old wiring to bring our new wiring through. All right, we'll pull plenty of slack out. Depending on your length of trailer, you'll have more or less slack. Once we've got this pulled through we're going to head over to the passenger side of the trailer and repeat the same process there. Now, typically your lights are going to be connected to those wires, so you'll just have to cut them off. Now, depending on how your trailer is set up, it's likely you're going to have to fish the wires out of the frame here to get your side marker lights connected. On the passenger side we need the green and brown. On the driver's side we'll be pulling out the yellow one. We want to separate our two wires. You need to get to the brown wire for our marker light signal. Just be careful when you do that not to cause any damage, of course, to the wiring itself. Snip that and we'll strip both sides back. In this situation, you can use one of the quick connectors, but I think it's a lot better idea to use part number DW05745, which is a heat shrink butt connector. We're going to strip that back just a little bit further. Then we'll take our side marker jumper. We want to twist it together with our brown wire and place on that butt connector. Now, we're using these because they're a heat shrink style connector, so since this is a marine trailer it's going to be exposed to the elements plenty, hopefully anyway. Then once we have these in place we've got superior moisture and corrosion resistance. With that wire, since it is a little bit thinner, we're probably going to strip this back about twice as far as you normally would. Bend it over, and that's going to go right in the other side. We'll crimp that down. Now we can use a lighter, you can use a heat gun, you can use a little mini torch and we just want to heat that up slowly. You'll see how it starts to shrink down. At a point, the wires are going to look like they've magnified or gotten larger. Then there's a little clear gel that comes out of the end there. That's going to indicate you've got a good seal. Do it for the other side here. Then we can repeat this same process for the driver's side. Of course on that side we're also going to use the brown wire. Should have our green, brown wire in there with our butt connector, and we'll start getting the location for our side marker light. You can see the old holes here, we're going to go just above those. That way we can get into some fresh steel so we don't have to worry about our connection. We're going to use some small self tappers, get our hole locations marked. Now in this side marker light you can see this little metal strip that comes over here to the screw. That's what is going to give us our ground. You want to be sure if you use a self tapping screw that that goes in past that so the blade doesn't do any damage. We're going to place our gasket on, and we'll get them secured here. We'll slide our jumper into one side there, and then our upper part goes right into that ground where that was set in. One thing to keep in mind as you're running your wiring. If your trailer has an exposed channel or if it's not a box channel, meaning it's completely enclosed, you can use these quick clips. What they'll do is just slide down over the metal. You may have to kind of tap them down in place. Then that'll give you a convenient place to clip your wiring in to keep it up and from hanging down as you're traveling. With a box channel like this, it's certainly a better idea to run it through the frame. Now, you'll pull out any excess that you might have in your wiring here, and then I like to put about a foot or so back up in the frame of the trailer. If we ever have to change lights down the road or if we have to make any modifications, we'll have extra wire available. We'll get that snipped off, get the two separated. Now I'm going to strip back the end of each of those. Now, we're going to be connecting those to the yellow and the brown wire on the back of our light. They give us some wire nuts to do that with, but again, marine application, we want as much moisture resistance as possible, so we're going to go on with heat shrinks. This part number is DW05744. Get that crimped on both of those. Depending on how far yours are stripped, you might also want to strip back the wires coming off the lights here. Twist those up, and we're going to connect yellow to yellow and brown to brown. Just like we did with our yellow butt connectors, we're going to shrink these down. Now, depending on how you want your wiring to run, our hole is in the side of the frame, so it needs to go out this side. See the little keepers that are here. Push your wiring down in those. You'll see that's going to allow them to come out right through there where there's a little recess and we won't smash our wiring where we might cause damage to it. Now, in the back side of our light we're going to have three slots. These are designed to put our bolts in. The reason we have three of them is because spacing, depending on the trailer manufacturer, can be a little bit different. You see we've got our two holes right here on the back, so we'll use the two closest to the middle. Carriage bolt is going to slide right up into the slot on each side, like that. As we do this, we're going to feed our extra wiring up into the frame. Now as we slide our light in position you can see there's a little bit of a gap here. That's something we don't want. The reason that's happening is because the holes when they put them in, they drilled them up a little bit too high for a universal style light like what we've got, so we're just going to elongate those slight downward and give us a little more clearance. Now we're going to use just a little bit of rust preventative spray paint just to cover up that bare metal, since it is going to be in the moisture quite a bit. Now the ground wire for my light, I'm going to bring it right down over my bolt. That way as we tighten it down it gets smashed, that's going to make a good connection for us. Any excess we have we can store, just like that. Since we had to enlarge those holes, I'm going to put a couple of fender washers on there just to kind of spread that out a little bit. License plate bracket's going to go on, and then we'll add on one of the lock washers and also our nut. Then these are going to use a 10 millimeter socket, and just get that snugged down. Now we can go to the passenger side. We're going to repeat that same process there, although we'll have a green wire which will connect to the green wire, and we won't have the license plate bracket to deal with. The last connection we need to make is for our ground wire. That was the old hole that we had. The ring terminals provide aren't going to be large enough for the same type screw that was in there previously, so we're going to use part number 44-5310A. I'm also going to use a number 12 self tapping screw to secure it. Now, this step isn't required, but I think it's a really good idea to use either some of your electrical tape or you could use some convoluted wire loom, and I'm going to wrap all these up together or you could loom them all together. Just going to give us a much nicer looking setup in the front. It's also going to protect the wires from getting hung up on anything. Now with our ground set and everything taped up, we'll plug in our lights to make sure they work. We'll start with our taillights. We'll check our left turn signal. Check our right turn signal, our right brake signal, and our left brake signal. Also, don't forget to check your clearance lights on the side. That's going to complete our installation of the Optronics Waterproof Arrow Pro Trailer Light Kit, part number TL36RK.