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FITS 2017 Volvo XC90
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 76194

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Trailer Hitch
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2017 Volvo XC90

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76194 - Class III Draw-Tite Custom Fit Hitch
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  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 6000 lbs GTW
  • 900 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • Concealed Cross Tube
2017 Volvo XC90 trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Product reviews from other XC90 owners. Expert trailer hitch advice with thousands of helpful questions and answers. Guaranteed lowest price and fastest shipping.

  • All Info
  • Reviews (2)
  • Q & A (31)
  • Videos (1)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

2017 Volvo XC90 - Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Fully welded Volvo XC90 trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 6,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 900 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.

Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.

In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario. Technical Support

At we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.

76194 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

Replaces Draw-Tite 76190

76194 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 76194 Installation instructions

California residents: click here

Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Volvo XC90

Speaker 1: Today on this 2017 Volvo XC90, we're gonna review and install a Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 76194. This is what our hitch looks like when it's installed on our Volvo. As you notice right off the bat, all you see is just the receiver opening which is nice. All our cross tube and everything and attachment points are hidden behind the bumper fascia. We got a nice, rounded collar right here, kinda matches the rounded the shape of a car. Right behind it you'll notice two holes.

The larger hole is 5/8" diameter and that's for your hitch pin, or favorite locking hitch pin. The smaller hole is designed for a J pin stabilization lock, which works great with any accessory that goes inside here to keep it from rattling around. That the only time where this little hole is used. Now this nice, long oval here and thick steel works with a wide variety of hooks that are out there. Pulling capacity on our hitch is gonna be 6,000 pounds.

Our tongue weight, which is is the weight that pushes down the hitch is gonna be full rated at 900 pounds.Now one special note about this hitch, it's designed not to be used with weight distribution. So you're strictly limited to those weights. Also, you want to double check with your owner's manual or the manufacturer to verify if your engine and transmission combination can handle the maximum weight allowed by the hitch. Next, we'll get some measurements to help you out with selecting some accessories for your vehicle. Measuring from the top of receiver opening down to the ground is gonna be about 13 3/4" and from the center of the hitch pitch hole to the outside edge of your bumper will be about 4".

First off, we'll work on the bottom here, removing these fasteners. Now the instructions call for a T20 torques bit to remove them. However, my T25 fits a lot better. So that's what I'm using. So let's move onto your fender wells now.

We're looking at the passenger side and it'll be one, two, three, four, and number five right here we have to remove. This time, we'll be using our T20 bit. Limited clearance here, so I have to find a special tool to get in here with the bit.Last screw on the passenger side. Now let's go over to your driver's side and repeat that same process. It may be a good idea to go ahead and peal back the liner here to make things a little easier to work with later on. Next up is this fender flare is connected to this panel right here with some snaps on the inside. So we need to loosen that up to about roughly right up in here. I'm going to use some blue painter's tape to try and help protect the pain job a little bit. We might make some wear marks taking it apart and putting it back together. Using a plastic pry tool, just kind of work it loose until it pops. That should do it. Once again, done with the passenger side. One more time over on diver's side. We'll need to open up the back hatch and get access to these bump stops right here. Spine them a quarter turn and work them out. Do this on both sides. We're almost ready to take off the bumper cover right here or fascia.Definitely want to get an extra set of hands for the other side of the vehicle. Pull our fender well back a little bit. You may need to pull another snap back up here. But this, just this cover part comes loose. You may need a pry bar to pop it loose. There it goes. It's a tight fit. Make sure you work the bottom a little bit too. Then work around underneath the taillight. It should pop loose.with your help holding the bumper cover up, go over to the passenger side here. Push down this tab to release the electrical connection. Sometimes, push in. Push down this tab right here and pull it apart. Let's go ahead and put this in a safe spot where we can work on it later. With the fascia out of the way, now we need to remove our bumper structure right here. There's gonna be one, two. The third fastener is in this hole down here. We'll need a 15 millimeter socket and an extension. With that one loosened, we're gonna put it back on just enough to hold it while we remove the rest of our hardware.With all our hardware loose, we're gonna do three on one side and three on the other side. Take the last one off I had left loose to keep them from falling off and we'll go ahead and take it off. Now we've got a modified heat shield here. Basically, we're gonna find our center point of the heat shield. I just basically eyeballed it from the latch in the center, went down, went by that. We need to measure across 4" and honestly, it helps to go just a little bit over. But I may need some wiggle room due to the variances in the manufacturer. So we're gonna inaudible 00:05:01 4" here and we'll go about 3" up and like I said, it's gonna be a little bit more for wiggle room. Let's go ahead and take a moment to put our hitch into place and do a quick test fit to see what else we need to cut if any. We'll line up the bolts, put it in place and this one's a really tight fit. So you almost gotta get it perfectly on to make it line up.Then we'll temporarily put some hardware on, making sure it it won't come back off. With our hitch in place, let's take a look. The instructions tell us to do some trimming right through here. But I got it up against the vehicle. It looks like I got enough space between everything. So I'm gonna leave this alone. The same thing applies to the driver's side of the vehicle also. Next, let's go ahead and take a look at the center part where we marked out. Let's push the heat shield back and see our marks and it's pretty darn close. So I think maybe instead of taking all of this out, we'll just take out this bottom edge right her. All right, we'll take some tin snips and just make a couple of cuts right here. Get some gloves and I'll fold it up and out of the way. Before we put our bumper cover back on is make sure you have your threads clean enough in this hole right here because the hitch does come with extra hardware to thread into place. To clean out our threads, we're gonna be using spray lubricant and a tube brush.You'll want to do this definitely on both sides. At this point, we can reinstall the bumper structure. I took off the hardware that's holding it in place for now, since it's just sitting there. So be very careful and we'll put the bumper structure back into place and we'll reinstall the original hardware and we'll do this, of course, on both sides. Let's grab our 15 millimeter socket and slug down all the hardware. With our existing hardware snugged down, maybe a little bit loose still, let's install this bolt. We're going to sneak it underneath the bumper cover here into the preexisting hole. Now this also has a conical tooth washer on here. If notice, there's some teeth on here. That always faces towards the hitch. I'm just gonna push it in. Then I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket on swivel. We'll use that to tighten it down. We'll do this on both sides of the vehicle. With all our hardware in place, now I'll use a torque wrench to tighten down our hardware. With our new bolts installed and torqued down, we'll move on to the factory hardware and torque those down as well.Now to tighten it down with a swivel isn't the best way. But what I found out and if you can find it, use a mid-length socket, not a deep well, but a mid-length. It'll fit in there just barely. You'll probably have to use a swivel to get it started. But you can use that to get inside here and properly torque down the bolt. inaudible 00:08:22 You're gonna do it about one click at a time. Time to make a cut out onto our bumper fascia now. Find our center and then after our center mark, I need to have it 3 1/2" wide and about 2 1/2" tall, which is up to this edge right there. We'll remove that section. To make my cut, I'm gonna use some tin snips and then I am going to at the corner, just kind of recessed in there, I'm gonna score it with a knife. I'll make a few good passes with it, just light passes. We'll bend it back and forth a few times, then finish off with a knife.You may want to sand this down with some sandpaper on the inside edge to get rid of the burrs. Now we use a paint marker for our markings. If you use rubbing alcohol, that'll get it to come right off. Let's get our extra set of hands one more time and we'll put our bumper cover back into place. We'll take our electrical, plug it together until it snaps. Guide the bumper cover over the hitch. Pull out our fender flare. Make sure it all fits in okay. It does seem to help to push up from the bottom. Then put everything into place. With it snapped into place temporarily, let's go ahead and put in our bump stops. Line up the key ways. Push it in a quarter turn and it's locked into place. All right, we'll take a few moments and snap our fender flare back into place on both sides. Probably can go ahead and remove our tape. Time to reinstall our hardware on the bottom here. Now it's not gonna be an exact line up because the hitch kind of throws everything back just a little bit.So I'm gonna take a heat shield and that brace in there, push it towards the back to line up the holes and then run the hardware in. Our remaining fasteners will go back into their fender well and that'll finish it for our Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch, part number 76194 on this 2017 Volvo XC90.

Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 76194

Average Customer Rating:  4.0 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 76194
2018 Volvo XC60

Hitch worked out OK. Needed to trim fascia more than was indicated in the instructions (notch at each side plate). Also, our XC60 has the sensor that opens/closes the tailgate if you move your foot below the drivers side rear bumper, which made fitting a bit more challenging. Instructions were pretty vague, so it helped to look at the install instructions for the factory hitch/wiring harness (google instructions 31454723 for part 31439424) for details of how to remove body components. Factory hitch definitely would have installed quicker, for a few more $$$. 592917

- 76194
2018 Volvo XC60

This is the only hitch available for the 2018 XC60 other than the OEM from Volvo. It IS a 10/10 difficultly for one reason. Bending the bumper fascia bracket into place after the hitch is installed is not for the casual “do it your selfer”. 490928


Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?

  • 2 inch Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Volvo XC90 Carrying Bike Rack
  • For a Class III, 2 inch hitch confirmed as a fit for your 2017 Volvo XC90 that would work great for carrying a bike rack the best option would be the Draw Tite # 76194. Unlike the Curt hitch equivalent for your vehicle this hitch does not require a stabilizer strap when carrying a non-supported load like a bike rack. Since hitch installs are pretty basic for most mechanics any local mechanic near you with a good reputation would be a great choice.
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Recommendation for a 2017 Volvo XC90
  • Yes, we have the Draw Tite hitc part # 76194 which is a confirmed fit for your 2017 Volvo XC90. This is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening that would work well for towing or carrying hitch accessories. If you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch rise or 4 inch drop. It also includes a 1-7/8 inch ball, 2 inch ball, hitch pin with clip, and...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch For 2017 Volvo XC90
  • The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch # 76194 would be a good fit for your 2017 CX90. I do understand your hesitation with installing the hitch because the bumper needs to be removed as well as the heat shield and skid shield if present. We do not have a list of installers around the country but If you have a trusted mechanic nearby, they will have the tools and a lift that will make the job much easier and they will be able to install the hitch. This is a Class lll hitch and it has...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch for 2017 Volvo XC90 R-Design and Mounting Bracket for Factory 7-Way Trailer Connector
  • I did some checking at the Draw-Tite trailer hitch # 76194 is listed as a fit for all styles of the 2017 Volvo XC90 so that would include the R-Design. Like you said there is some fascia trimming required. If you do not want any contact between the fascia and the hitch receiver then you would just need to trim slightly more above the receiver (if there is contact). From what I could find on Volvo part 31373661 is that it is listed for a 2016 XC90 and not a 2017 so I do recommend verifying...
    view full answer...

  • Bike Rack Solution Recommendation for 2017 Volvo XC90
  • I really wish we could recommend a trunk bike rack for your 2017 Volvo XC90 but at this time the only option we have would be a hitch rack with a hitch like the part # 76194 installed and a bike rack like our very popular Thule # TH912XTR. We asked our demo and install guys to name their favorite, most easy-to-use bike racks and this one showed up in nearly everyone's top three. Check out the review video I attached for more info. If you plan on carrying any womens or alternative...
    view full answer...

  • Will Hands-Free Liftgate Operate with Draw-Tite Hitch Receiver Installed on 2017 Volvo XC90
  • The Draw-Tite Max-Frame # 76194 will not prevent the hands-free liftgate feature on your 2017 Volvo XC90 from working. The only way it may impact is you likely won't be able to activate it with your foot directly under the hitch receiver but it will still work just to the side. If you're going to be towing with your Volvo, the wiring harness # 118683 is confirmed to fit. This will provide you with a 4-way trailer connector. It installs by plugging into the wiring which is behind both...
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video by:
Andrew K
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Written by:
Alexander C
Video by:
Zach D
Photos by:
Stacy F
Test Fit:
Robert C

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