EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Item # 306-X7324

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Trailer Hitch

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EcoHitch Custom Fit Hitch - 306-X7324
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Product Images

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EcoHitch Custom Fit Hitch - 306-X7324
306-X7324 - Concealed Cross Tube EcoHitch Custom Fit Hitch
306-X7324 - 200 lbs TW EcoHitch Custom Fit Hitch
EcoHitch Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324
Trailer Hitch 306-X7324 - 200 lbs TW - EcoHitch
Trailer Hitch 306-X7324 - 200 lbs TW - EcoHitch

In Use/Installed

EcoHitch Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Concealed Cross Tube Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
306-X7324 - 2000 lbs GTW EcoHitch Trailer Hitch on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Concealed Cross Tube Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Custom Fit Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Concealed Cross Tube Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch 2000 lbs GTW Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" 200 lbs TW 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Concealed Cross Tube Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4
EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" 200 lbs TW 306-X7324 on 2014 Audi A4


  • EcoHitch
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 2000 lbs GTW
  • 200 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • Concealed Cross Tube
This custom-fit trailer hitch with a hidden cross tube installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper, leaving only the receiver visible beneath it. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly. Powder coat finish resists rust. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from EcoHitch. EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" part number 306-X7324 can be ordered online at or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.

  • All Info
  • Reviews (2)
  • Q & A (2)
  • Videos (1)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

EcoHitch Trailer Hitch - 306-X7324

This custom-fit trailer hitch with a hidden cross tube installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper, leaving only the receiver visible beneath it. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly. Powder coat finish resists rust.


  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Hidden cross tube provides a clean, from-the-factory look
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no drilling or welding required
  • Sturdy, lightweight alloy construction
    • Alloy is made of recycled materials and combines aluminum, steel, and stainless steel
  • Black powder coat finish offers superior rust protection
  • Meets SAE J684 towing safety regulations
  • Made in the USA


  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Maximum gross trailer weight: 2,000 lbs
  • Maximum tongue weight: 200 lbs
  • Not rated for weight distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty

Hidden Cross Tube for a Clean, Factory Look

The EcoHitch Hidden trailer hitch is designed to be as inconspicuous as possible. The hitch's cross tube bolts onto your vehicle's frame, behind your rear bumper. No drilling or welding is required. Once the hitch is installed, only the receiver will be visible beneath your bumper. This means that your vehicle can maintain its stylish, from-the-factory look, and you won't have to do any major modifications to its body or frame.

Eco-Friendly Material

With a combination of aerospace-grade aluminum, steel, and stainless steel, each EcoHitch is made of a strong metal alloy that will withstand the test of time. The lightweight alloy is composed of recycled materials. Traditional steel hitch manufacturing can use coal or oil, which can contribute to harmful gas emissions. The EcoHitch's recycled materials limit the carbon footprint during manufacturing, so you get a sturdy trailer hitch while also helping the environment.

Rigorous Strength Testing Ensures Durability

This EcoHitch trailer hitch is tested for durability and sturdiness. Using Finite Elemental Analysis (FEA), individual points of stress on the hitch can be detected and remedied. Designers can accurately test the hitch to ensure that it will meet or exceed SAE J684 standards. The EcoHitch Hidden trailer hitch is carefully researched and strength tested for a durable, high-quality hitch that can resist damage while on the road. Technical Support

At we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.

X7324 Tork Lift Central Eco Hitch Hidden Trailer Hitch - 2" Receiver

306-X7324 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 306-X7324 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2014 - 2016 Audi A4

2013 - 2016 Audi Allroad

2009 - 2013 Audi A4 Sedan

Video of EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Installation - 2014 Audi A4

Instructor: Today on our 2014 Audi A4, we're gonna be installing EcoHitch's hidden trailer hitch receiver, part number 206-X7324.This is what our hitch is gonna look like when it's installed. As you can see, the cross tube's gonna be completely hidden behind the bumper, so you're just gonna be able to see the receiver tube sticking out the end here.It's a class three, 2" by 2" hitch receiver. It's gonna be great for all of your towing needs, from trailers, to bike racks, to cargo carriers, it'll handle anything.It uses a 5/8" hitch pin and clip. Now, one doesn't come included with this hitch, but you can pick one up here, at with part number, PC3.It features small plate style safety chain loops, and these little loops here, are gonna be great for working with just about any size safety chain. The opening is large enough to accommodate larger chains, and thin enough here around the wall, for smaller chains.It features a 200 lb tongue weight, and that's the force going down, on top of the receiver, and a 2000 lb gross towing capacity. That's how much it can pull behind it.

It's not weighted for a weight distribution system, and you do want to verify in your owner's manual, that your vehicle's not going to exceed its towing capacities.And now, I've got some measurements for you, to help you in deciding on accessories. From the ground, to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measure about 13-3/4". This is important when determining if you need a drop, rise, or raised shank on any of your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about 5". This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position, without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our installation here, at the back of the vehicle, with our trunk open.

We're gonna need to remove the access panels, on both the driver's and passenger's side. The driver's side simply pulls down, and our passenger side simply pulls out. You'll just have to get behind it, and just tug it out.We'll remove this plastic nut here. Now, it is pretty tight, so you may have a difficult time removing it. There are some holes, so you can slide a screw driver through, to help get it started.Then, we'll remove the nut on the stud located here.We'll now remove the tail light assembly.

You want to take a trim panel remover tool, get it behind the tail light, and just push it rearward. That'll release it. We'll now disconnect our electrical connector, located here. There's a tab you will push in, so you can pull it out. That release tab is located right there.

And we'll set this assembly aside, and repeat the exact same procedures on the other side.Now, we're on our inside fender well area, on our driver's side. We're gonna need to remove three torque screws, using a T25 torque socket. Then, remove the other two, located here, and here.We'll then remove the three torques bolts, located here on the bottom, using the same T25 torque socket.Then, you'll want to remove the push pin, located on your passenger's side. Take your trim panel remover tool, or a flat bladed screw driver, pop out the center of the tab, and then you can remove the entire pin.We can now remove our fascia. So, starting at one side, peel back from our fender liner here, and just start working your way around.When you get to the pin, you'll need to remove the pin. You can use a flat bladed screw driver, to get underneath of it. Just pop it up, and we'll set it aside.You can now separate it from the pin. We can do the same thing on our other side. We're gonna peel it back from our side, where our fender liner starts. When we get to the pin, we'll pop that up.Once you've got it loose on both sides, we can take our fascia off, and set it aside, where it won't get damaged.We might need to remove our spare tire. We're gonna lift up on this panel. We'll take this out, set it aside. We can unscrew our spare tire, pull it out, set it aside. And then, we can lift this cover off.Now, we'll need to remove the four buckles, located in your trunk. There's two on each side. If you lift up on the lever on the buckle there, you'll find two torque screws, that we're gonna remove with a T30 torque socket. We'll now repeat that, for the remaining three buckles.Now, we'll need to remove the trim panel, located here at the back. To do this, the panel does just pull straight up, but to make it easier, I do recommend you peel back your weather stripping here, because it does overlap it, and it's already a really tight fit, to pull this thing out.Another benefit of pulling that back is that, you ca pull it from both ends, because it'll go straight up. So, you can pull it from the bottom, while also prying it, here in the front. Just work your way across, and we can set that aside.Now, we're able to easily lift up on our side here. Now, it is possible that you can just take out just this clip, and lift it up, and get to it with a wrench, or something, but to make things much easier, you can pull off those extra panels.We'll take out this bolt with a 16 mm socket. We won't be reinstalling it, so we'll just set that aside.Now, we'll prepare our bolt to be installed. Slide one of the large, flat washers on the head of the bolt, and then we'll install it. We'll tighten this bolt down, with a 17 mm socket. Then, we'll repeat that same step on the other side, then torque your hardware to the specifications in your instructions.Next, we'll be lowering down our exhaust. Before we do that, we want to make sure we secure it, so it won't fall too far, and cause any damage. We're gonna take a strap. We're gonna go over our suspension, and we're gonna hook it in place. Once you've got this tight, we can lower it down later if we need to, to get more out of our exhaust, but this will keep us safe from causing any damage.We'll then lower down the exhaust, by removing the bolt here, on our exhaust hanger, using a 13 mm socket.Now, on the other side of our muffler, we'll find another hanger we'll need to remove as well. This one also removes with a 13 mm socket.You can then adjust your strap as you need to, so that way you can lower it down.Next, we'll remove the heat shield on this side, by removing the four nuts, with a 10 mm socket. There's one located here, one located here, and two more located there. Now your heat shield will come down. You might have to peel it off of some of the studs. It is pretty sharp, so using a flat bladed screwdriver is a pretty good idea.We're now gonna need to cut a hole in our material here. We want to add and mark our hole, per the illustration provided in our instructions. Now, in order to get this hole, there's a lot of different ways you could do it. You could use a cut off wheel. You could drill a hole. You could use some tin snips, after you drill a hole. We're gonna use a large socket, and a smaller socket as a punch, to just punch right on through, and now we've got our hole.We'll then take the fish wire that comes in our kit. We're gonna take the straight end, push it up through the large opening here, go back to the smaller opening here, towards the front of the vehicle. We need to bring it down through that hole. We'll then take one of the long spacers, slide it over our fish wire, and thread our carriage bolt onto the coiled end. We'll then push our spacer up into the frame, followed by our carriage bolt. We're gonna pull it down through the hole here.To feed our other bolt in, we're gonna take the spacer first, and place it over our coiled end, thread the carriage bolt on our coiled end, then we'll push them both up into the frame, one at a time, and pull it back down.We need to remove this coil wire, so we can reuse it. We're gonna feed carriage bolts in on our other side, using the same procedures we did on this side.Now, reinstall your heat shield, and grab a buddy, to help you lift your hitch up. Then, we'll thread a flange nut, onto each of the carriage bolts. Once you get a carriage bolt started on each side, the hitch will hold itself into position, making it easier to install the rest of your hardware.Both of the carriage bolts use the flange nuts. It'll be the same on each side. And the longer bolts that we threaded down in that earlier step, we'll use a spacer plate. This is the square spacer plate, followed by a flat washer, a black washer, and a regular nut. You'll install the same hardware, in the same positions, on the other side. We'll tighten down the bolts with the large spacer, using a 17 mm socket, and we'll tighten down our carriage bolts, using a 19 mm socket. Then, torque all of your hardware to the specifications found in your instructions.We've already marked out the area on our bumper, that we're gonna need to cut out. So, I'm gonna use a cut off wheel, and we're gonna cut this section out here. You can now clean up the edges, using a razor knife, or a file.You can now put your exhaust back up, reinstall your hanger. Now, you might notice when you put it back up, it's a little tight. It does rub a little bit against your exhaust.If you have any exhaust tape, which is like a thicker Kevlar, I would recommend that you put some down your muffler, to help act as a vibration dampener between your muffler, and your hitch. Then, we install the other exhaust hanger, on the other side of the muffler.Now that our exhaust is all the way reinstalled, we can take the strap back off.Once you get your fascia set back into position, we're gonna need to reinstall those pins that we removed. You want to make sure that the little door that's located here, is shut. This does flap open. This will guide it down through both pins, and push it back into place. Do the same thing on the other side.Now, reinstall all the hardware for your bumper, and reassemble everything in your trunk. Included in the kit, you'll get a rubber trim piece, that you can place around the portion that you cut out of your bumper. This will help just protect it, and give it a little bit nicer look.That completes our installation of EchoHitch's hidden trailer hitch receiver, in our 2014 Audi A4.

Customer Reviews

EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" - 306-X7324

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)

This custom-fit trailer hitch with a hidden cross tube installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper, leaving only the receiver visible beneath it. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly. Powder coat finish resists rust.

- 306-X7324


2014 Audi Allroad

Hitch was of excellent quality and well packaged. Instructions were mostly clear. This hitch is fairly involved to install and you will need a set of star bits and a deep 10mm socket. A couple of points I would add to the instructions (that I wish I would have known ahead of time for 2014 Audi allroad) When removing the bumper, there are two plastic pins that should be removed just above the top screw in the wheel wells. If you pull pack the wheel well lining after removing the 3 screws, you will see the plastic pins. I had to remove an extra piece of plastic inside the trunk to get to the bolts under the tie downs. This plastic trim piece had to be moved before the rails could be rotated per the instructions. The bumper nut to be removed from inside the trunk requires a 10mm deep well socket. The rear tail lights require quite a bit of force to remove. The forward most portion of the lights "snap" into the body with two rubber grommets. I ended up using a plastic trim removal kit to help free the tail lights. 565778

- 306-X7324


2013 Audi Allroad

Exactly what I was looking for. Hitch was packed perfectly and arrived to my house quickly. 547790


Ask the Experts about this EcoHitch Trailer Hitch
Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?

  • Installing the EcoHitch Hidden Hitch onto the 2013 Audi Allroad
  • There is quite a bit involved in the installation of the EcoHitch Hidden Hitch, part # 306-X7324. There is no drilling involved, though you will need to trim the underbody and of the vehicle during the installation process. In total, you'll remove the tail light assembly panels, the bumper and the exhaust carrier when installing this hitch. I strongly recommend getting assistance with this install because of the number of individual techniques and steps involved in installing it.
    view full answer...

  • Does EcoHitch # 306-X7324 Fit 2011 Audi A4 Sedan
  • We have confirmed with EcoHitch that the hitch part # 306-X7324 that you referenced does fit your 2011 Audi A4 Sedan. We had the chance to install the hitch on a similar A4 sedan and we found that it fit and worked well. Check out the install picture I attached.
    view full answer...

Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?

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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video by:
Chris R
Written by:
Alexander C

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