EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"

Item # 306-X7201

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Trailer Hitch

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EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" 200 lbs TW 306-X7201
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  • EcoHitch
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 2000 lbs GTW
  • Completely Hidden
  • 200 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
This completely hidden, custom-fit hitch installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper so that the cross tube is always out of sight. Receiver easily removes when not in use. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from EcoHitch. EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" part number 306-X7201 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (3)
  • Q & A (3)
  • Videos (1)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

EcoHitch Trailer Hitch - 306-X7201

This completely hidden, custom-fit hitch installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper so that the cross tube is always out of sight. Receiver easily removes when not in use. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Hidden design - hitch is completely out of sight for a clean, from-the-factory look
    • Hitch cross tube is concealed behind rear bumper
    • Receiver is removable - unbolts from hitch when not in use
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no drilling or welding required
  • Sturdy, lightweight alloy construction
    • Alloy is made of recycled materials and combines aluminum, steel, and stainless steel
  • Black powder coat finish offers superior rust protection
  • Meets SAE J684 towing safety regulations
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Maximum gross trailer weight: 2,000 lbs
  • Maximum tongue weight: 200 lbs
  • Not rated for weight distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Hidden Design for a Clean, Factory Look

The EcoHitch Stealth trailer hitch is designed to be completely out of sight when you're not towing. The hitch's cross tube bolts onto your vehicle's frame, behind your rear bumper. No drilling or welding is required. Once installed, the cross tube will be completely concealed and only the receiver will be visible beneath your bumper. But unlike other hitches with hidden cross tubes, the Stealth goes one further. You can remove the receiver portion of the hitch for a completely out-of-sight setup. To mount the receiver, just insert it up into the access port that is built into the cross tube. Secure the receiver to the hitch with the supplied bolt and washers. When you're done towing, just remove the receiver portion to return your vehicle to its clean, factory appearance.


Eco-Friendly Material

With a combination of aerospace-grade aluminum, steel, and stainless steel, each EcoHitch is made of a strong metal alloy that will stand the test of time. The lightweight alloy is composed of recycled materials. Traditional steel hitch manufacturing can use coal or oil, which can contribute to harmful gas emissions. The EcoHitch's recycled materials limit the carbon footprint during manufacturing, so you get a sturdy trailer hitch while also helping the environment.


Rigorous Strength Testing Ensures Durability

This EcoHitch trailer hitch is tested for durability and sturdiness. Using Finite Elemental Analysis (FEA), individual points of stress on the hitch can be detected and remedied. Designers can accurately test the hitch to ensure that it will meet or exceed SAE J684 standards. The EcoHitch Stealth trailer hitch is carefully researched and strength tested for a durable, high-quality hitch that can resist damage while on the road.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



X7201 Tork Lift Central Eco Hitch Stealth Trailer Hitch - 2" Receiver



306-X7201 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 306-X7201 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2012 - 2019 Tesla Model S




Video of EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2"


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Tesla Model S

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Tesla Model S, we're going to be installing Eco Hitch's two inch hitch receiver, part number 306-X7201. This is what our hitch is going to look like when it's installed. You're only going to be able to see the receiver tube sticking out the back, as the rest of it is completely hidden behind the bumper. This is a two inch by two inch hitch receiver, so it's going to be great for all of your towing needs from trailers to bike racks to cargo carriers, it will do just about whatever you need.This uses a five-eighths inch hitch pin and clip. Now, one is not included, but you can pick one up here at etrailer.com with part number PC3. There are safety chain loop holes on this hitch, but they're tucked underneath the bumper here.

Now, due to this design, if you want to utilize those, you will have to cut out some more of your bumper to use them. Our customer recommended that we do the minimum amount of trimming, so they're very difficult to access and if you we're to hook a safety chain to it, it may cause further damage to the lower part of the bumper.It features a 200 pound tongue weight. That's the force going down on top of the receiver and a 2000 pound gross towing capacity, that's how much it can pull behind it. Now, you do want to make sure you check the vehicle's owner's manual to ensure you don't exceed its towing capacities. Now, I got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories.

From the ground to the top inside edge of the receiver tube, it measures about 10 and three-quarter inches. This is important when determining anything you need to drop, rise or raise shank on any of your accessories. Due to this being so low, I would recommend that you do get a raised a shank on your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the edge of the rear bumper, it measures about three and a half inches. This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our installation underneath the rear of the vehicle by removing this belly pan.

There are going to be several bolts we'll have to remove with a 10 millimeter socket in order to get this pan down. Once you've got all the bolts removed from your belly pan, the under shield in front of that, towards the front of the vehicle, you'll need to remove all the pins and bolts that run across. You'll remove the pins underneath by popping out the center with a flat bladed screw driver or trim panel remover tool and you can simply pull the pin out. There will be two more pins located just behind your wheel on the inner fender well. We're going to remove both those pins on each side.Once those side pins are removed, you can now separate your front and rear panel and we're just going to let that hang down and that way it's free when we remove our bumper.

We're not going to remove the two clips on the inner fender well located behind the rear tire. There will be one here and one further in. We do not need to remove this clip here.Now, we'll remove the two clips located underneath the rear fascia just behind the rear tire. You'll want to remove those just like you did your other ones. Now, we'll pull back our fender liner. If you pull down on the bottom of the bumper that makes it easier to get it released and there will be one torque bolt that you'll need to remove right here. We'll remove this with a T25 torque socket. Now, if the top piece starts to rotate, you may need to hold it with a pair of needle nose pliers.We're now on our rear hatch. We're going to remove the compartment door for your rear compartment. You'll then want to grab underneath the trim panel and just pull upward, working it down and we'll set this aside. We'll then remove the three clips and the carpet here just underneath the panel. Use your trim panel remover tool and you can just go behind the carpet and pop them out. You can push your carpet back exposing the rear bumper area on the inside. Pull back your weather striping. Just going to set that right on the inside.We'll now need to remove the plastic trim panel located along the side here. There's going to be one clip here that you'll need to remove. You can use your trim panel remover tool to pop that out. Now, the whole panel is not going to come off, but this will allow us to move it out of the way. Now, pull your plastic piece up and we're going to pull the carpet back. You'll see chrome tape located right there. We'll need to remove this tape to expose a hole that has a stud with a 10 millimeter nut on it that we're going to remove to get our fascia off.We're going to remove the nut off of that stud with a 10 millimeter socket. Once you got it started with your ratchet, it may be easier to just remove the nut with your hand. Now, you can pull back the carpet and remove the nut in the same location on the opposite side. We're now going to pull back our fascia. Starting on one side, we're going to peel out, we're going to remove that torques bolt and work our way around until you get your stud to come out. We then went over, popped out our driver's side. Our passenger side, we just kind of stuck that stud back in there to hold it up. Now, we'll pull back and observe for any electrical connectors that we may need to disconnect and there are some here on our passenger side. You'll push in on the tab, on the bottom center and pull out to release it. We'll now set our bumper aside where it won't get damaged.I want to make an arrow mark on your rear bumper beam to indicate which side is up. I put a little arrow going up and I'm also going to star the top side. Now, we need to remove the four nuts located on each side of our impact beam. We're using a 15 millimeter socket to remove these nuts. We'll now remove the four on the other side. We'll now remove our impact beam and we're going to set it aside. We'll now need to remove the four nuts that we're located behind the beam on each side. Make sure to get the washers that we're behind the nuts and then do that on the other side.We'll now take the nylon washers that come with the kit and we're going to place one on each stud. It's very important that it's on the lower six studs. There are enough provided in the kit though, that you can place one each stud. We're going to place one on all eight on our driver's side and we'll place one on all eight on our passenger's side. We'll then need to remove the sensor located in the middle. There are two nuts that you'll take off with a 10 millimeter socket. We'll then slide your sensor off, we're going to flip it upside down and then re-install it. Go ahead and tuck the wiring back behind it to keep it out of the way. Make sure not to pinch the wiring beneath one of the ears on your bracket. We'll then reinstall both nuts and tighten them back down.Make sure that the wire is coming off the side of the censor towards your passenger side. You're going to need this extra slack to make sure it doesn't get pinched behind the hitch when you put your hitch up. We can now install our hitch on the lower six studs on each side. We'll then take four of the nuts provided in your kit and we're going to put them on the middle studs on both our driver and passenger side. There will be a total of four on each side, then tighten down all those nuts. Now, we'll torque all of our hardware to the specifications in our instructions. We'll now place our impact beam back on, making sure that the mark that we made on it, showing which way is up is in the correct location. It'll be easier to put the lower studs on first and then roll it up. We'll then secure it using the nuts that come with your kit.On the lower two studs, you'll have a regular nut placed on the outside, just like you did on the top two studs, but on the inside lower stud, we're going to be using one of the coupling nuts. We're going to do it exactly the same way on our passenger side. Now tighten and torque all the hardware that holds on your impact beam. For all your nuts, you're going to use a 15 millimeter socket, but for the coupling nut, you're going to use a 17 millimeter socket. Now, we're going to install our stabilization strap here. This is going to go between our coupling nut and the hole in our hitch here. There are different, left and right. You'll know you have it correct if the curved edge is on the top. We'll be using two different bolts to do this. The shorter bolt is going to thread into our coupling nut and the larger bolt is going to thread through the open holes. We're going to start with our shorter one by placing a lock washer on it, followed by a flat washer and then we're going to thread it into the coupling nut.We're going to take our longer bolt, we're going to put a flat washer on it, feed it through the bracket and the hitch. If you're having a difficult time pushing it through, you can just kind of thread it through and then, on the other side, you'll place a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut. We'll do the same for the other side. Now, torque your hardware to the specifications in your instructions. The bolt that goes into that coupler is going to be a 17 millimeter socket, and the bolt that runs through the side will be a 15 millimeter socket.We'll now need to remove our hitch ball adapter. You'll need a 15-16ths socket to remove the large bolt that holds in place. We'll be re-installing this after we get our fascia back in place. We'll now need to cut out a location for our hitch ball adapter to go through in our lower part of our fascia. We've measured up 12 inches from the center of the middle hole and made a cross mark at this point. We're going to want to cut out a hole with a four inch hole saw. You want to do this very carefully because you only want to cut through this layer. We'll now need to make a second hole next to the one that we just cut. We're only going over about an inch from the edge of the hole and you want to make sure that you come down ever so slightly, as the bumper does curve. We're going towards the passenger side of the second hole. So, this one is directly center, this is the passenger side, about a quarter of an inch lower and one inch to the right of the hole we just cut.We're now going to make a straight edge mark, just across the bottom there. We know to cut along that edge, we're going to do the same thing on the top. We'll now make our cut with a rotary tool along the edge we marked. We can now reinstall our fascia. Remember that when you go to reinstall it, you have to plug your wiring in on your passenger side. It's easier if you get the driver's side started so that way you can get this passenger side plugged in and then get this side started. We can now re-install our ball mount adapter. We've got ourselves a little bit of extra on this side so we can get the bolt reinstalled and we can tighten that back down. You'll now need to tighten down the bolt until it crushes the lock washer and is nice and secure. And now, just reinstall all your components in reverse order of how you took them apart.That completes our installation of Eco Hitch's two inch trailer hitch receiver on our 2017 Tesla Model S.


Customer Reviews

EcoHitch Stealth Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - 2" - 306-X7201

Average Customer Rating:  3.3 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

This completely hidden, custom-fit hitch installs behind your vehicle's rear bumper so that the cross tube is always out of sight. Receiver easily removes when not in use. Aluminum and steel alloy construction is durable and eco-friendly.

- 306-X7201
by:

This is a serious hitch. Heavy solid steel. The mounting video is fantastic. Removing the bottom pans without a lift is a pain but doable. I had to make the bumper hole larger to fit a wrench on the right angle adapter bolt. Otherwise no issues. 617913



- 306-X7201
by:
2016 Tesla Model S

Seems like a well engineered product. My intended use is for a hitch mounted bike rack, not for any towing. I see one other user rated the install as a 10 out of 10 for difficulty. I have a friend whose job is removing bumper covers for repairs. He rated it about a 5 out of ten for difficulty. There are a lot of fasteners, so it just takes a while. Patience. He had no issues at all keeping the various fasteners straight on the reassemble. He did not use jacks, jack stands or a creeper. Just a movers pad for his knees and elbows. We had to use a rat tail file to enlarge one of the holes in one of the included reinforcing angle brackets. After reassembly, there was a very slight bulge from the hitch where it was pressing ever so slightly on the black plastic lower fascia. I couldn’t face taking the entire bumper cover off again so I’m going to leave it and over time if it damages the plastic I’ll fix it then. Several years ago apparently there was an issue with electrolysis between the hitch and aluminum portions of the body. The kit included some non conductive washers that completely addresses that problem. It’s a huge bonus to be able to use a trailer hitch mounted bike rack. Too bad tesla won’t make one. Quality product. 561055



- 306-X7201
by:
Tesla

The hitch I received did not fit the Tesla because the plates were welded backwards. Torklift was extremely responsive and shipped me another hitch out that same day after I notified them. I received the new hitch the next day by 2p. Installed it that afternoon with out a problem. 455544


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Ask the Experts about this EcoHitch Trailer Hitch

Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?


  • What is the Lightest 4-Bike Platform Style Bike Rack for a 2014 Tesla Model S with EcoHitch
  • For your 2014 Tesla Model S with EcoHitch # 306-X7201 the lightest 4-Bike rack (that is sort of a hybrid between a platform rack and a hanging rack) is the BikeWing # B01458. It weighs just 41 pounds. It holds the bikes at the wheels only and will accept bikes with wheelbases from 22 inches to 50 inches. I have linked a video review of this rack for you. For a more traditional rack the Saris Freedom SuperClamp # SA4026F you mentioned would be the lightest at 63 pounds. I have linked...
    view full answer...

  • 2 inch Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2015 Tesla Model S
  • For your 2015 Tesla Model S we have the EcoHitch part # 306-X7201 that you referenced which has a 2 inch opening and a 2,000 lb trailer towing capacity. There's no drilling require to install this but it is a more in-depth install compared to most trailer hitches. Best option would be to find a Tesla dealer local to you and have them install it. For trailer wiring you'd then want the ZCI kit part # 119250KIT which doesn't require any hardwiring. If you wanted to do some towing you...
    view full answer...

  • Will EcoHitch Trailer Hitch # 306-X7201 Fit 2018 Tesla Model S with Rear Facing Seats
  • Yes, the EcoHitch 2" Trailer Hitch Receiver # 306-X7201 that you referenced will fit and work perfectly on your 2018 Tesla Model S that has the rear facing seat option. This option does not affect or interfere with the mounting points for the hitch. I have attached an installation video that you can use for reference along with the written instructions manual.
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video by:
Chris R
Written by:
Alexander C
Test Fit:
David F

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