Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

Item # C12111

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Curt Custom Fit Hitch - C12111
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  • Curt
  • Class II
  • 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  • 350 lbs TW
  • 3500 lbs GTW
  • Concealed Cross Tube
  • Custom Fit Hitch
Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Curt. Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4" part number C12111 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (23)
  • Q & A (8)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Curt Trailer Hitch - C12111

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.


Features:

  • Custom fit is designed specifically for your vehicle
  • Precision, robotic welding maximizes strength and improves fit
  • Bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Gloss black powder coat finish over protective base coat offers superior rust resistance
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately
  • Assembled in the USA


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
  • Rating: Class II
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 3,500 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 350 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty



etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



12111 Curt Class 2 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Replaces 12084



C12111 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details C12111 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2013 - 2019 Ford Escape




Video of Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Ford Escape - Curt

Today on our 2017 Ford Escape, we're going to be taking a look at and installing the Curt Class 2 Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12111. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. It's going to be a class two, so we're going to have that inch and a quarter, by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening. It's going to be tucked up just right underneath our bumper. It has a reinforced receiver tube collar which is going to give it added strength, but also giving it a nice finished look. You have the safety chain loops, they're going to be a rolled steel stock style. There's loops welded underneath our receiver tube.

They're going to have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on, or off without having to worry about interfering with anything. Our hitch is going to use a standard half inch pin and clip, Our hitch is going to feature the 350 pound tongue weight, which is the amount that's pushing down. It's also going to feature a 3,500 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount that it could pull. I do want to mention you always want to double check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure your vehicle can handle that amount of weight. The manufacturer does recommend when you're towing a non trailer load, that you use a stabilization strap. You can pick one of those up on our website using part number 18050. I'm going to give you a few measurements that will help you in deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack, or cargo carrier.

From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, is three and a half inches. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, is 14 and one quarter inches. Now that we've gone over some of the features, let's show you how we get the hitch installed. To begin our installation, I'm going to remove the lower section of our fascia. We're going to have four fasteners right here and be using a T25 Torx bit to remove them. Right here, we can go ahead and just leave this sitting up in our fascia, because the whole thing will come down. On each side, right on the inside of our mufflers, we're going to have a pushpin fastener.

We can just take a flathead screwdriver, you can pop the center section out. Once we have the center section loose, it'll actually take the tension off of the tab. We can pop out the outer portion, which will release our panel. We're going to have one more on the other side and we can take that out as well. If we come to the inside of our bumper here, at the bottom, just outside of our tailpipe, we're going to have a small clip where the silver part of our fascia meets the black plastic. We're going to take a flathead screwdriver and right where that hook is, we're going to push in and then we can actually just push up and out, which will take our clip out. We're going to have another clip like this on the other side, so we're going to remove that as well.

With all of our fasteners loose and the clips out, we just come to our fascia and just pull away and out and start working our way across the top. We're going to set this aside for now. We're actually going to tuck this up and out of our way, because this is the sensor for the lift gate assist. With the fascia out of the way, we're going to lower down our exhaust. Normally, I would recommend using a strap to support your exhaust, so it doesn't hang down to low, but if we look right here, it's going to hit the rear axle and support beam before it actually goes anywhere, so we'll be okay. To remove our exhaust, we're going to come to the hangers here. We're going to have two bolts that are holding it on on each side. I'm going to be using a 13 millimeter socket to remove those two bolts. We're going to repeat the same process on the other side as well. We're going to come to our heat shield here on our driver's side. We're going to have one fastener holding the heat shield on on our frame rail. We're going to need to trim this before we get our hitch and hardware into place, so I'm going to mark out the general area that we're going to need to trim. We're going to want to trim along the edge of our frame rail here. We're going to want to go past our access hole here coming straight back to just a little bit in front of our fastener. We're going to be trimming all this section right here out, so that our hitch can make contact against our frame. I'm going to be using a 10 millimeter socket to remove that fastener. With that fastener removed, I'm going to pull my heat shield down just enough, right here, so I can get in here. I'm going to cut this section out. I'm going to be using a rotary tool, but you can use whatever have available, whether it be a pair of tin snips, or even a pair of extremely sharp cutters. It's not that thick a material, but it is metal, so just keep that in mind. It should look like this once we've cut it out. We can go in and replace our fastener and we can move to the other side. Here on the passenger side, we're going to need to trim our heat shield as well. On this side, we don't have a fastener holding it in place on the back, so we're just going to come along the edge of our heat shield here. We're going to be trimming out the flat section on our frame rail, so our hitch can sit nice and flush against it. All right. Here we're going to notice an oval shaped hole in between the two smaller holes that our muffler bracket was bolted to. We're going to need to enlarge this hole big enough, so that we can get our hardware through it, just big enough that we can get our 7/16 carriage bolt through. To do that, I'm going to be using a drill and a de-burring bit, or you can use a wrench, pry it open, or anything just to file away the material just to give you enough room to get that bolt in there. It's always a good idea to just keep double checking while you're going through filing, because you just want enough to get that bolt in there. Now that we have this side done, we're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. If we come to the side of our frame rail here, we're going to see that we have a hole. We're almost to the very back. We're going to take our fish wire and I'm going to put my fish wire in that hole in the side of the frame rail and I'm going to feed it down towards my access hole that we just enlarged. Just going to have it pop out right here and I'm going to put a slight bend in it. That way I don't have to worry about it falling out, or losing my wire. Now we're going to take one of our spacer blocks, square holed spacer blocks and we're going to feed it over the coiled end. We're going to take our carriage bolt and we're going to thread it on to the end. Now we're going to feed our carriage block and bolt into the frame and we're going to start pulling on that fish wire 'til our hardware comes out just like that. Now we're going to come to the rearward hole, just behind our access hole here. I'm going to take my fish wire, I'm going to do the same concept. I'm going to fee it through 'til it comes out my access hole. Then I'm going to put my spacer block on behind my coiled end, going to thread my bolt on and pull it back through. For our last hole here, we're going to do it a little bit different. We're going to take our fish wire, going to slide my block over it and I'm going to thread my bolt onto the coiled end. Now I'm going to feed my bolt through, push it all the way up in there and I'm going to take my spacer block and feed it through. Now I can bring my bolt down. This is going to be the same process and the same technique that we're going to use on the other side as well. Now with an extra set of hands, we can put our hitch into place. We're going to lift it up over our exhaust. When we pull our fish wire through our hitch, we're going to want to make sure . Obviously, the side's going to go through the one hole on the side of our frame rail, but our two bolts and our fish wires are going to go through the furthest rear hole, then we're going to skip one and go to the second furthest forward hole here. Now I'm going to remove our pull wires from our bolts, being careful not to push them bolts back into the frame, we're going to take our 7/16 flange nuts, we're going to put them on our bolts. We can come back and snug them down once we get all of them into place. I'm going to use an 11/16 socket to snug up my hardware. We're going to repeat that for all the hardware that we have. Now, I'm going to come back with the same socket. I'm going to toque it down to the specified amount in the instructions. I want to repeat that for all the remaining hardware. With everything in place, we need to double check and make sure that our exhaust bracket holes are lining up with our hitch. We can take the MA bolts and flat washers supplied in our kit and we can put our exhaust brackets back into place and we can tighten everything down. I'm still going to be using a 13 millimeter socket just like I did to remove them. We're going to repeat that same process on the other side as well. Now we're ready to put our lower fascia back in place. I'm just going to line it up, pop it into place. I'm going to start replacing our fasteners. I just want to mention you want to reach up here and you want to line up that sensor behind the bumper, so that it'll line up with the holes here so we can put our fasteners back in place. Now we can just take our clips, they'll lock into place. That'll finish up our look at the Curt Class Two Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C12111 on our 2017 Ford Escape.


Customer Reviews

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4" - C12111

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (23 Customer Reviews)

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.

- C12111
by:
2016 Ford Escape

This hitch was easy to install as claimed and advertised. Instructions were easy to follow as well. I purchased the hitch to carry bicycles. Works great! Thanks. 491035



- C12111
by:
2018 Ford Escape

Great price. cheaper than anywhere else. Super prompt delivery. Quality product. Had it installed today. Looks and works great. Really helpful installation tutorial. I highly recommend this seller. 487583


Comments

Still pleased. Have transported my bikes many times. Quality product from an excellent supplier.

John K - 03/22/2019

50881

- C12111
by:
2014 Toyota Tacoma

Easiest hitch I've done have done 3 just so easy good directions good price 390250


Comments

Just as expected still looking good I also bought a wiring kit very easy to install works fine even though the winter up north

Dave B - 07/06/2018

40565

- C12111
by:

I was a bit bummed that that expected you to enlarger the holes in frame rail for the bolt plates. I found out plates go in fine and only the head of the carriage bolts need a bit filed off each one to get them in. It was a lot easier for me to just file a flat in each one of the 6 bolts as I didn't have my die grinder handy and I was doing this while wife sleeping. I simply folded the heat shield out of way. It would have been a good tip to mention that the vertical down bolts should be snugged, then the small horizontal aft bolt put in and tightened in order to allow the horizontal aft big carriage bolt to finally line up and get installed. Then all are tightened and the exhaust brackets reinstalled. Direction and photos were nice but would be a great help to next installer to mention the above bolt snugging sequence. 71317



- C12111
by:
2015 Ford Escape

Everything fit as it was suppose to, but the brake wiring harness was difficult to fish through to the battery. Everything works great. Thank you for all your help and very quick shipping also. I will be back when I need parts 518563



- C12111
by:
Ford Escape

The hitch met all of our expectations. Installation was relatively straightforward, although I had to get help to support the weight while I bolted in in. I also bought a wiring harness that worked out OK. The only snag was the connectors for the tail lights would not fit through the available passageway from underneath the vehicle. I had to cut the connectors off, feed the wires through, then re-attach the connectors up in the tail light assembly. 294165



- C12111
by:

Fit very well. Only thing better would have been if someone else would have installed it. 658774



- C12111
by:

This is the second hitch from etrailer I have bought and installed. Delivery was quick and everything was in the box. Instructions are pretty easy to follow and the video is even better. I managed to muscle it in by myself using my floor jack to support one end but it really is a two person job to lift and slide it into place. Also instead of enlarging the access hole I ground a small flat on one side of the bolt head since my bench grinder was right there. I think one side of mine might have gotten slightly bent in during shipping because it didn't slide easily into place and needed a bit of persuasion to get it in place over the frame rails, another good reason to have two people. I do like that it is tucked up under the muffler and doesn't hang down in view. We will use it to hold a hitch mount bike carrier and to pull a small utility trailer when getting rid of yard waste. I'm satisfied it will work well and last as long as the car. 657721



- C12111
by:

Good price, very fast delivery 642931



- C12111
by:

Was extremely happy with the quick delivery. Very well packaged. Keep in mind if you are ordering from Canada, it's good to do the conversion on the dollar to see what you will be paying. Thanks etrailer! 639384



- C12111
by:

We use the hitch for our bike rack and it works fine. The only disappointment is that the car has a sensor that opens the hatch if you waved your foot under the car and after installing the hitch it no longer works. 623121



- C12111
by:

Exactly what we wanted: I get a medium duty hitch, my wife gets a hitch that is mostly hidden. All you can see is the receiver. The e-trailer suggestions for wire harness and draw bar make ordering things a lot easier. Once you decide on a hitch the rest falls in place like your personal kit. Amateur tips for installing. If you don't have a lift, use ramps. I used stacked 2x6 boards and the extra 4 inches under the vehicle helped a lot. This is really a two person job. The hitch is big and heavy, going into a tight space with an exact fit. I was under the vehicle guiding and gently prying where needed, and my daughter worked the floor jack. Together we got it done. 615995



- C12111
by:
2013 Ford Escape

This is the second hitch from etrailer that I have installed. This one was pretty straightforward to install, but is definitely a two person job. I had some issues getting the hitch in position over the exhaust, but a few blows with a rubber mallet solved that issue. It would be great if packaging could be developed in such a way as to assist with the install, ie. supporting the hitch while it is positioned. 569895



- C12111
by:
2017 Ford Escape

installed on a Ford escape 2017, easy to install with all screws provided. I did follow the video on etrailer to install it. Not the first time i buy on etrailer, I definitely recommend it ! 521843



- C12111
by:
2015 Ford Escape

Very happy with the hitch and wiring harness for my 2015 Escape 4WD. Clear directions, quality hardware and extremely fast shipping. 490019



- C12111
by:
2014 Ford Escape

This is a great receiver. I am a machinist and can tell this hitch is well made. Very heavy, a good chunk of steel. Thanks 477539



- C12111
by:
2017 Ford Escape

Third time I have ordered a Trailer Hitch from your company. Delivery was very fast. Installed with no problem. Curt products from ETRAILER are good quality at a reasonable price. Videos are a great tool. Thanks. 413424



- C12111
by:

Installed in my driveway in 2 hours by myself. Everything fit perfrectly! Great product so far. 402556



- C12111
by:
2016 Ford Escape

Great trailer hitch and was easy to install. I can currently using it for my bike rake and has work out well. I would recommend this company the service they provide. 287783



- C12111
by:
2014 Ford Escape

Great hitch for my 2014 Ford Escape! Fairly easy install and look great! Shipping was fast. 287309


Comments

Still looking good and working great!

Tra R - 08/25/2017

27599

- C12111
by:
2016 Ford Escape

Price is right and hitch construction is great and finish is holding up quite well. 2nd hitch and a bike rack I have purchased and I'm always impressed with the products received. 285741


Comments

After a year and the hitch looks the same as the day I bought it. Solids as a rock and the paint is still flawless. Thanks for a great quality product.

Kent C - 08/19/2017

27358

- C12111
by:
2016 Ford Escape

Easy to install. 271899



- C12111
by:

Super quick delivery....great price....nice that they have very good installation instructions available 94572


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Ask the Experts about this Curt Trailer Hitch
Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?


  • Difference Between Curt Trailer Hitches for 2019 Ford Escape
  • The difference between the Curt Trailer Hitch # C13186 and Curt Trailer Hitch # C12111 that fit your 2019 Ford Escape is the size of the receiver. I recommend Curt Hitch # C13186 for your '19 Escape because it has a 2 inch receiver which gives you many more options in regards to the type of accessories you can use. This hitch has a 350 lb tongue weight capacity and 3,500 lb towing capacity but unlike the hitch with the smaller 1-1/4 inch receiver, the # C13186 is rated for use with...
    view full answer...

  • Why is the Stabilizer Strap Needed for the Curt Class II Trailer Hitch
  • Curt requires the use of a stabilization strap when using non trailer loads on their trailer hitches to maintain the warranty on the trailer hitch. You are correct when you say that the weight of the Thule Vertex rack and the weight of your bikes are well under the weight capacity of the hitch, however, Curt feels that a stabilization strap is required when carrying hitch mounted accessories on their trailer hitches. The stabilization strap not only takes some of the weight and stress...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch Fit Recommendation for 2018 Ford Escape S Model
  • Yes, I checked just now and both the Curt hitch part # C12111 and the Draw Tite hitch # 36529 fit the S models of your 2018 Ford Escape and will work well. Since the Curt requires the use of a stabilizer strap with non-supported loads like bike rack I'd recommend you go with the Draw Tite. I attached an install video for the Draw Tite on a 2018 Escape just like yours for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...

  • Can a Heat Shield be Sandwiched Between the Frame and Trailer Hitch
  • The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver part # C12111 on your 2017 Ford Escape will need to be attached directly to the frame without anything between it. Sandwiching the heat shield between the frame and hitch will affect the integrity of the hitch and void Curt's warranty. Therefore, I cannot recommend you sandwich the heat shield between the frame and the trailer hitch. In order to further secure the heat shield onto the body of your Escape, you can always use a few self tapping screws like...
    view full answer...

  • Curt or Draw Tite Hitch Recommendation for a 2016 Ford Escape
  • If you are looking for a US made hitch for the 2016 Ford Escape the Curt hitch part # C12111 would be the hitch for you. The Draw Tite # 36529 has the advantage of not requiring a stabilizer strap when carrying a non-supported load like the part # 18050, but it is made in Mexico currently. If the plan was to do some towing I would go with the Curt easily since it is made in America which is nice. If you plan to carry a bike rack that Draw Tite would be hard to pass up since you wouldn't...
    view full answer...

  • 2013 Ford Escape SEl Trailer Hitch Compatibility with Lift Gate Sensors
  • The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Class III # C13186 is the correct fit for your 2013 Ford Escape and my recommendation over the Class II- 1-1/4 inch # C12111. They utilize the same mounting, but the Class III is much stronger and will allow more accessory options in bike racks, cargo carriers, and ball mounts. With either option the Hands-Free Liftgate sensor areas will be limited to either side of vehicle near exhaust pipes. If you want a stronger hitch, with the Hands Free...
    view full answer...

  • Will Curt Hitch C12111 fit a 2016 Ford Escape S Model
  • I am pretty sure you mean to type 2016 Escape, but yes the Curt Hitch part # C12111 has been confirmed as a fit for all models of the 2016 Ford Escape so it would work well on your S model. For a hitch ball with a 1-7/8 inch hitch ball you would want the part # C45551 or for a 2 inch ball # C45552. For trailer wiring you would want the part # C56335.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hitch Hardware for a 2015 Ford Escape
  • Yes they are. For replacement 7/16 inch fishwire bolt leaders you would want the part # C58410. Hitch install hardware is considered one time use, so you would also want the part # RHK. You would just need to select the hitch manufacturer and part number and we will send you out the correct hardware. Bolt leaders would be included.
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
Kathleen M
Written by:
Laura H
Photos by:
Sam P
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Test Fit:
Robert C
Updated by:
Kristina F
Updated by:
Isabelle B

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