Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Item # C11525

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Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" 200 lbs TW C11525
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Customer Photos

Videos


  • Curt
  • Class I
  • 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  • 2000 lbs GTW
  • 200 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • Visible Cross Tube
Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, Honda Accord trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Curt. Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" part number C11525 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (3)
  • Q & A (11)
  • Videos (1)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Curt Trailer Hitch - C11525

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, Honda Accord trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.


Features:

  • Custom fit is designed specifically for your vehicle
  • Precision, robotic welding maximizes strength and improves fit
  • Installation requires drilling, heat shield trimming, and temporary lowering of exhaust
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Gloss black powder coat finish over protective base coat offers superior rust resistance
  • Stylish, round-tube design
  • Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
  • Rating: Class I
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 2,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 200 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Note: All non-trailer loads - bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth - should be supported with stabilizing straps. Failure to properly support these loads will void your hitch warranty from Curt.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



11525 Curt Class 1 Trailer Hitch Receiver



C11525 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details C11525 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2018 - 2019 Honda Accord excluding Hybrid




Video of Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Honda Accord

Today in our 2018 Honda Accord, we're gonna take a look at and show you how to install the Curt Custom Fit Class One Trailer Hitch Receiver. Offering the inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening, it's part number is C11525.So this is what our hitch is gonna look like installed. It's a class one hitch, so we've got an inch and a quarter by inch and a quarter receiver tube opening. It'll work out with cargo carriers, bike racks, anything smaller in nature. Of course with a class one hitch, it doesn't have a great big capacity. You're also gonna have a cross tube that runs along the back side here.

Now when you're standing behind the vehicle when it's on the ground, it's not really that noticeable. Everything's kinda tucked in and up underneath the rear.Now you'll see your pin hole here on the side. This is gonna be a half inch pinhole. You want to choose a class one accessory, but there is plenty of room there if you decide you want to use just a pin and clip or maybe a locking hitch pin or anti-rattle device. Shouldn't have any issues there.

You've got small oval shaped safety chain connection points here on the plate. That's gonna allow you to hook in any chains from a trailer or something you might want to have connected up there.Now when it comes to weight ratings on the hitch, it has a 200 pound tongue weight rating, so that's the maximum downward force we can put at the receiver tube opening, and it has a 2000 pound gross trailer weight rating. So the total weight of your trailer and anything that you load up on it. Definitely check the owner's manual on the Accord though, to see what its tow rating is and not go over that.Now one thing you want to keep in mind with the Curt hitch is that they do require the use of a stabilization strap anytime you're hauling a non-wheeled load. So cargo carriers, bike racks, things like that, you have to use that stabilization strap.

Now that's not something that's required on the draw tight hitch that's also available for the Accord, but that hitch does require you to remove the rear fascia to get it installed. So it's kind of a give and take there between the two.Now a couple measurements you're gonna find helpful for selecting your ball mount, bike rack, or hitch cargo carrier, will be from the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening. We've got about 11 inches. With that being the case, we'd recommend items with a rise in the shank, just to give you better ground clearance. Then from the center of our hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of our bumper, it's about four inches.Now the installation process for the hitch isn't all that difficult.

To start, we need to get our exhaust lowered down. On each side in our tailpipe sections, we're gonna have one hanger right here at the back. Then if we'll go right up to the front, we've got a second one located here. Those are gonna be the same on both sides. Now from there, we can follow our tailpipe down past the Y and we've got our third one right here. That's gonna give us a total of five, two on each side, and then this one here. We'll want to get those removed. Now to get these off, I like to use a little bit of spray lubricant. And then we're just gonna use a pry bar or a large screwdriver. Just wanna get that rubber portion worked off of the metal portion.Now we're gonna come to the driver's side here. We've got our exhaust flange, we want to take the two nuts off. Gonna use a 14mm socket. We're of course gonna hang on to those and reinstall them. But that will allow us to separate this portion of our exhaust and it'll give us some more room. Now at that point, we'll just take the passenger side here, we're gonna bring that over and then down and we can just let it rest. Now we'll grab a 10mm socket and we want to take this bolt out. It's gonna be the very back bolt in our heat shield on the bottom of the frame rail. Do that on both sides.Now we're gonna measure from the back side of our heat shield, forward five inches. So that's gonna put us right here. And then we want to find the center, so we come right down the frame, right to that. So that'll be right there. Now we're gonna do this on both sides. That'll give our X where we're gonna cut out our hole. Now we're gonna be using a hole saw to achieve that inch and a quarter hole. It's probably the best bet, you could also use a step bit if you wanted to, but you'll have to get a hole started.Now this is the hole we want to gain access to underneath our heat shield. You'll see I had to enlarge my hole just a little bit, just using some tin snips. It's cause it didn't line up just right. So you might have to do that on yours. Once we've got that done, we want to hold our hitch up into position and we want to line this hole up right in the middle of that elongated hole. Once we're happy with its positioning, we want to mark our outside hole here. We're gonna do that on both sides. It's the hole closest to the back.Now we're gonna get that hole drilled out in just a second, but another step, we want to hammer this heat shield flat down around this rear mounting point. Just use a dead blow. You can see it's pretty easy to get that flattened out. We'll do that one both sides. Now we'll want to start in the center of the frame there and we'll get our hole drilled out. Now we need to enlarge our hole so we can get that bolt and spacer block in place. You can see, just gonna kind of cut it out so we can pass that carriage bolt up and through. Just using a metal type cut off wheel. You could also use a little saw or file that, but a power tool's definitely gonna help the process.And ultimately, this is what we're gonna be looking for. We want to be able to place our carriage bolt in and we can just rotate that up in position. Now we need to get a spacer block put on it as well, so we're gonna put our bolt through the spacer block, and we'll thread on our pull wire. So that's threaded down on there, we'll want to separate them, place our bolt up and through, and we'll push it up in there, pass our block through up and in there, and we want to bring that back down. Might have to rotate it to get that block to where it's inaudible 00:06:23 front and back forth there.Now once we have that in place, let's get our pull wire down off there. We're gonna do the same thing this time with just our one inch bolt. This time we use the smaller spacer block. That rear hole you use the larger one. Same process. We'll head to the passenger side and do the same thing there. Now with the help of an extra set of hands, we'll line up our bolts with the holes in our hitch here. Now as we do this, we need to be careful not to push these bolts back up in the frame. And then on to each of them we want to thread on one of our flange nuts here. We'll get this one started really well. And we can get this one.Now we'll take our 11/16" socket. We're gonna get these snugged down then we can torque them to the specifications listed in our instructions. Now with those torqued down, we'll get our exhaust put back up into place. Remember to get this hanger above that cover first, just like that, and then we'll put our exhaust on the driver's side. Now it's just a matter of going back through. We need to get our exhaust put back up in position here. A little bit more spray lubricant's gonna help you out with it.Now once you get these all put back up into position, your hitch is gonna be ready for use. And that will complete our installation of the Curt Custom Fit Class One Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number C11525 on our 2018 Honda Accord.


Customer Reviews

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" - C11525

Average Customer Rating:  4.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.

- C11525
by:
2018 Honda Accord

Great product that fits nicely once installed. Unfortunately installation was very difficult and ultimately required assistance from a professional. The instructions do not detail the bracing wall within the frame between the prefab opening and drilled opening required. Using the fishwire to set the rear bolt and spacer in place through the existing slot is not possible. A hole much larger than 1/2 inch must be made. Attached is the camera image captured by the mechanic. 545151



- C11525
by:
2018 Honda Pilot

This is more of a review of my install rather than the hitch performance. I just finished installing the hitch on my 2018 Honda Accord Sport 2.0T Manual transmission. It took me about 2 hours and I am fairly handy. I didn't suffer any injuries. I followed the instructions except where noted below. The first step is lowering the exhaust by removing the rubber isolators. There are isolators behind each muffler (between muffler and rear of the car) as well as in front of the mufflers (in the gap between the rear tire and the wheel well). The final one is where the exhaust pipes come together further underneath the car. The two in the wheel wells and the one under the car are easier than the ones behind the mufflers. I don't have the removal pliers that probably make this super simple and Autozone doesn't have them for loan. I watched all sorts of youtube videos about using channel lock pliers, but that didn't work on this car due to the design of the isolators and the space you have to work with, specifically those behind the muffler. What worked for me was I sprayed the rubber and the metal hanger with Windex and put gloves on (make sure you do this - there are all sorts of sharp metal parts there) and just worked the rubber back and forth until it got far enough that I was able to just get it off. I couldn't do this on the hangers rear of the muffler until I did the other 3 first - those in the wheel wells and the one under the car. Those were pretty easy with the brute force technique of just pulling the rubber and then twisting it to get it over the edge of the hanger. the rears were tough and I found it easiest to sit right behind the muffler and push it straight forward. You have to get your one arm up in the cavity between the exhaust tip and the side of the bumper which is tight, but I was able to do it and it helped a lot to exert even pressure on both sides of the isolator. Eventually I got all 5 off. The exhaust still didn't drop since the hangers that are attached to the mufflers were caught on the exhaust tips, which are actually completely separate from the muffler. I had to push the exhaust to one side to get around the drivers exhaust tip, then repeat with the passenger side. No harm done. All in all this probably took my 45 minutes, including my failed attempt using channel lock pliers. The instructions call for removing the passenger muffler. Not sure why. I didn't. In fact, on my car it's the driver's muffler that is attached with the flange nuts whereas the passengers muffler is welded. Either way I didn't do a thing and they really didn't get in the way that much. I did support the exhaust with a couple 2x4s and some cardboard so it wasn't just hanging there (since it's still attached in the front of the car). The next step is modifying the heat shield. The rear screw in the heat shield comes out and stays out. There are only 3 more screws that hold each heat shield on, so I just took the heat shield out to drill the 1.25" hole. I used a hole saw and actually drilled a 1.5" hole now that I think about it. But the aluminum heat shield is really easy to get through and my hole was super clean and easy. The instructions say to go 5" back from the rear edge of the heat shield, but that's actually a little much. I think 4.75" would have been better, but since my hole was a little big it didn't impede me at all. I reinstalled the heat shield, leaving the rear screw out (so 3 screws holding it up). The instructions say that flattening the heat shield around the screw that was removed aids in installing the forward flange nuts. I didn't get that at first, but now I understand. Because the hitch is curved a little whereas the frame is straight, there's a little gap between the shield and the frame. Since the hitch mounting bolt to the front of the car is just long enough to come through the frame and accept the flange nut (so it doesn't interfere with the muffler once it's back in place) there are hardly any threads sticking out when you try to get the flange nut on. If you crush the heat shield a little then it allows the bolt to stick out a little more. I actually think if you crush the heat shield to conform to the frame rail all along the length of where the hitch will install, that would be best. I didn't do this and still succeeded, but at least I know why they say this now. Step 3 is to lift the hitch into position and mark your holes to drill. Not sure why you have to do this. I was on my own and had a hard time trying to lift the hitch into position and hold it steady on both sides to mark the holes. I was afraid that if it was in position on one side but a little off on the other, it would skew where the hole was supposed to be. So I just measured the distance between holes on the hitch and then measured back from the existing hole in the frame (that was exposed when you created the hole in the heat shield) and marked the spot. It was 6.75" for me. I marked it, and drilled a pilot hole and then enlarged. Other than the rubber isolators this was the hardest part of the install, mostly because my drill bits were either not that sharp, or were quickly dulled. Please wear safety goggles when doing this. A lot of metal debris (hot metal debris) was raining down, burning my arm a tiny bit by tiny bit...which was no big deal...but I wouldn't want them in my eye. Especially some of the bigger bits. I ended up drilling a 1/8" hole first, then expanding to 1/4, then 3/8, then 1/2. I did this mostly since the tip of the 1/2 drill bit was dull, but the rest of it was okay. I also tried to use a step drill bit but that only worked a little. Pretty sure I ruined each of the bits...but I didn't have to make a trip to the hardware store for this install, so I'm happy. A couple notes here to make things easier for you - there is a bulkhead about 6-6.25" back from the center of the pre-existing frame hole. Stay away from this. If anything, err to the rear of the car from where you marked your hole to drill. The existing hole in the frame is oblong, so it gives a little cushion for error. If you're too close for the bulkhead, then there will be no horizontal frame for the spacer to sit on and you'll be screwed. I ended up with about 1/4" of frame which seems like enough but any closer and I'm not sure. Secondly, the instructions say to enlarge the hole to get the bolt and spacer in. They say this so casually that I didn't think it would be any big deal, but you actually have to enlarge the hole to the point where you can get the entire bolt in the hole and the bolt head is maybe an inch or more across. I was surprised I was able to do this without resorting to a lot of swearing and gnashing of teeth. I widened the hole by using my 1/2" bit and tilting it side to side while in the hole, as much as I could before the drill hit part of the car. This made it almost wide enough. I then took my step drill and worked it as much as possible, then the 1/2" drill forward and back. The bolt just fit and I had no more room under the car before the muffler, gas tank, exhaust tip or other parts got in the way. Reverse fishwiring the bolts and spacers was easy. I left the fishwire on all 4 bolts just to make sure I didn't lose them in the frame rail. It doesn't say in the instructions, but you have to use the short spacers (with one side shorter than the other) in the rear holes that you drilled - and the short side goes to the front of the car since the bulkhead that I described earlier will prevent any other orientation. I fed the hanging end of the fishwire through the hitch holes so I could move it into position, pulled the bolts through and then very carefully removed the fishwires one at a time to put a flange nut on, being extra careful not to push the bolt back up into the frame. The bolts toward the front of the car were the hardest since they're only just long enough and since I didn't crush the heat shield earlier, I only had maybe 1 thread exposed. Still I was very careful and eventually the nut caught a thread. I torqued with a torque wrench. If you don't have a torque wrench, just know that 70 ft lbs is pretty tight. My torque wrench is about 15" long and with one arm it was about all I could muster, given the cramped conditions and inability to get leverage to push off something with my feet. Reinstall of the mufflers was easier than removal. Just move the mufflers back on the top of the exhaust tips in the reverse of removal, spray the isolators with windex again and slide them back on. I did the wheel wells first to help hold the exhaust in position, then underneath the car, and then the ones to the back of the mufflers. On one side I forgot to spray with windex and I couldn't get it, but after spraying I had it on in about 30 seconds. One other note - after drilling, clean up all the metal shavings. I didn't because I was lazy and I ended up with so many embedded in my skin (not a big deal since they're large and can be brushed off) and in my shirt and shorts (which I started picking through and eventually gave up and will just toss the clothes since they're old anyway. That's it. Overall if I knew what I was doing with the isolators and had better drill bits it would have taken me much less time and aggravation but on a new car this wasn't too terrible. 540212



- C11525
by:

Buying from etrailer was a very good place to buy from,the prices are good with free shipping. This is the 3rd hitch I bought here and recommend anyone to buy their products. 467065


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Ask the Experts about this Curt Trailer Hitch
Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?


  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Honda Accord
  • For your 2018 Honda Accord the Draw Tite part # 24972 is the winner. One reason is that the price is way better, but mainly because you said you were going to carry a bike rack. Unlike the Curt hitch for your vehicle # C11525 this hitch does not require the use of a stabilizer strap when carrying a non-supported load like the Curt does. For trailer wiring you'd then want the part # 119250KIT which is a confirmed fit, then for a ball mount part # 3593 and hitch balls # 19258 for a 2 inch...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch with Best Ground Clearance on 2018 Honda Accord
  • Both the Draw-Tite Class I Sport Frame Receiver Hitch # 24972 and the Curt Round Tube # C11525 are confirmed to fit your 2018 Honda Accord. Between these two models the Draw-Tite will give you the best ground clearance dimension because of how it mounts to the vehicle. The hitch receiver will pretty much sit directly below the rear bumper (see attached image for reference). The bottom of the receiver will be about 3 inches below the bottom of the rear fascia/bumper. I have attached...
    view full answer...

  • Bike Rack Options for a 2018 Honda Accord
  • I have two options that will allow you to carry bikes on your 2018 Honda Accord. You can either use a trailer hitch with a hitch mounted bike rack or a trunk mounted bike rack. A trunk mounted bike rack will be more cost effective but a hitch mounted bike rack allows for much more options as far as bike racks go. In order to use a hitch mounted bike rack you will first need a trailer hitch and for that I recommend the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver part # C11525 as this is the only confirmed...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch for 2018 Honda Accord Hybrid
  • The hybrid version of the 2018 Honda Accord can use the Draw-Tite hitch # 24972 which happens to also fit the standard version. The Curt hitch # C11525 does not fit the hybrid. The written instructions for the Draw-Tite hitch and a helpful general article on hitch installation are linked for your reference. And you can check out the included photo of an installed hitch to see the final appearance which is quite clean and nice. This light-duty Class I hitch can handle a 2-bike hitch...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver for 2018 Honda Accord Sport and Kuat NV Bike Rack
  • For your 2018 Honda Accord Sport, I recommend the Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver # 24972 over the Curt # C11525. The installation of the Draw-Tite requires removing the bumper, but it does not require any drilling into your frame. Customers have been happy and even surprised by the ease of install on the Draw-Tite hitch although it will still take time. You won't spend so much time under your vehicle for this installation so in some ways it is an easier installation. It...
    view full answer...

  • Is 2 Inch Trailer Hitch Available for 2018 Honda Accord?
  • There are hitches which fit your 2018 Honda Accord, but they are all Class I, 1-1/4 inch hitches, the Draw-Tite # 24972 and Curt # C11525. Both of these hitches have a 2,000 lb towing capacity and a 200 lb tongue weight capacity. Please keep in mind the Curt hitch is going to require the use of stabilizing straps # 18050 with all non-trailer accessories such as bike racks and cargo carriers in order to maintain the warranty. I've added a link to a demonstration video for you which shows...
    view full answer...

  • Picture Request for Curt Hitch # C11525 on a 2018 Honda Accord
  • I attached a picture of the Curt Hitch part # C11525 installed on a 2018 Honda Accord just like yours for you to check out.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch and Bike Rack for 2018 Honda Accord
  • For your 2018 Honda Accord, I recommend the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver # C11525. This Class I hitch is custom-fit for your vehicle and features a 1-1/4 inch receiver opening. All of the necessary hardware is included and I have attached the complete installation instructions that you can take a look at. Please note that Curt does require that stabilizing straps like # 18050 be used with any non-trailer load such as bike racks and cargo carriers. I have included a short video demonstration...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch for a 2018 Honda Accord for a Bike Rack
  • If the bike rack that you have is rated for use with a Class I trailer hitch then for your 2018 Honda Accord I recommend Draw-Tite hitch # 24972. There are 2 kinds of 1-1/4 inch hitches, Class I and Class II. Not all 1-1/4 inch bike racks will work with a Class I hitch. If you know which model bike rack you have I can check if it is Class I compatible. The other option is to use Curt hitch # C11525. Now this is a Class I hitch but it will accept Class II accessories though it is still...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch Fits for 2016 and 2018 Honda Accords
  • The Curt Class I trailer hitch # C11525 is a confirmed fit for the 2018 Honda Accord but the 2016 Accord models use different hitch products. I linked a page that shows all hitch fits for the different versions of the 2016 Accord.
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch to Fit a 2018 Honda Accord Touring Hybrid
  • We do have a trailer hitch to fit the Hybrid model of the 2018 Honda Accord but it's not from Curt. As of right now (Dec. 2018) the Draw-Tite # 24972 is the only fit we have for your model. The Curt hitch for the 2018 Accord, part # C11525, isn't confirmed on the Hybrid. I suspect this will change in the not-so-distant future but I can't say for sure. I have linked the installation details of the Draw-Tite hitch for you though. We haven't had the chance to make a video as of yet.
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Expert Research:
Adam R
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video by:
Chris R
Written by:
Ronnie R
Updated by:
Kristina F

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