1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Curt
  3. Class I
  4. 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  5. 2000 lbs GTW
  6. Concealed Cross Tube
Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Item # C11485
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Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Curt. Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" part number C11485 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (2)
  • Q & A (2)
  • Videos (1)
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  • Why etrailer?

Curt Trailer Hitch - C11485

  • Curt
  • Class I
  • 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
  • 2000 lbs GTW
  • Concealed Cross Tube
  • 200 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.


  • Custom fit is designed specifically for your vehicle
  • Precision, robotic welding maximizes strength and improves fit
  • Bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Gloss black powder coat finish over protective base coat offers superior rust resistance
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Drawbar, pin and clip sold separately
  • Assembled in the USA


  • Receiver opening: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
  • Rating: Class I
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 2,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 200 lbs
  • Limited lifetime warranty

etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.

11485 Curt Class 1 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details C11485 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

Video of Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

Rob: Rob here at etrailer.com. Today we're gonna be taking a look at the Curt Class 1 Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2018 C Class Mercedes.Here is what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. You can see these have a really clean almost factory appearance to it because the cross tube is going to be hidden completely behind the bumper and all we're going to see is that receiver tube sticking out, so it's not going to be distracting from the looks of our Mercedes. And if we look at the side profile of our hitch, we can see that it's still going to be just underneath our bumper. It's not going to stick out. We're not going to have to worry about hitting our leg, all while having that nice clean appearance.Now it is a class one hitch, which means it's going to give us an 1 1/4" by 1 1/4" receiver tube opening.

It would be great for some smaller bike racks, maybe one or two bikes, a small cargo carrier, or light duty towing. Now, however we're going to be using it any accessory we want to mount up it's going to mount to the hitch pin hole here on the side. Our hitch is going to accept a standard 1/2" pin and clip. Now these are not included, but you can pick them up here at etrailer.com along with some locking devices to keep your accessories secure.Now if you do plan on doing some towing, we are going to have to have a spot to hook up our safety chains. Our connection point is going to be a plate style welded to the bottom of the receiver tube.

You can see we've got plenty of room to get most size hooks on or off. You just want to keep in mind if you have some really small ones, you may want to come from the front because the flange on the side is a little bit bigger, but we can still get our hooks on and off pretty easily.Now if you're getting a hitch, you want to make sure that it's up for the task regardless of what you're going to be using it for. As far as the weight rating goes, our hitch is going to have a 200 pound tongue weight. That's gonna be the maximum downward pressure at the end of the receiver tube. It's also going to have a 2000 pound gross trailer weight rating.

That's how much you can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it.With all those numbers in mind, you do want to double check your Mercedes's Owner Manual because you don't want to exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. Now Curt does recommend using a safety strap when carrying any non-trailer loads such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier.I'd like to give you a few measurements and these are going to help you out when you're looking for accessories for your new hitch, like a bike rack or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper, you're right about 3". That measurement is going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough room and they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is right about 13".

Now at that height I would definitely recommend a bike rack, or a cargo carrier with a raised shank that way we can get a little bit more ground clearance out of it.As far as the installation goes, we are going to have to remove the rear fascia. However, we're not going to have to drill anything. We are going to have to do some minor trimming on the lower part of the fascia that we really can't see, but a lot of customers are gonna be a little nervous about taking the fascia apart and taking everything off and then having to put it back on and make sure it lines up. But, we'll show you some tricks and tips and how to do it, and we'll walk everything through together.To begin our installation, we're going to come to the back of our Mercedes and at the very bottom we're going to have several bolts that we're going to have to remove. We'll come to the very edge right by our exhaust. The corner here, right behind the wheel well, we'll have one bolt. We can move back. We'll have another one along that same edge. Then we're going to want to move towards the center and right by our trunk pan we're going to have another one that's going to be attached to the very bottom of the body here. We need to remove those three on each side, so grab a 10 millimeter socket and we'll pull them out.Now we want to move to the rear wheel well. Right behind our tire if we look at the liner here we're going to have several of these push pin or rivet style fasteners that are holding it in place. We need to remove it, so you want to grab a flat blade screwdriver. We'll find one of the rivets. We want to pop out that center section first. It's going to take all the tension off. You wanna work that center section out.Once you have the center section pulled out a little bit, you should be able to come behind the base of it with our screwdriver and pry it the rest of the way out. And if the two pieces come apart, that's okay because whenever we go to put them back together we can just put the center in and let it go back together. But, we want to remove all the push pin or rivet fasteners that are in the rear wheel well on each side all the way up to where our fender meets our fascia.And with those removed, we're going to pull her fascia just a little bit, and we're going to pull our wheel well liner back. And if we look inside, we're going to find two more of those push pins that we need to remove. They're going to come out the same way, so just take a flat blade screwdriver or a trim panel tool, and pop out the center section, and then pull the rest of the rivet out. They'll have one towards the bottom here, and then one just a little bit higher up on the fascia. You want to pull those out of the other side as well.Now if we come up right where our fender meets our fascia, we're going to see that we have a bolt going up into the body of our Mercedes. We need to remove it, so we're going to grab an eight millimeter socket and it'll help if you get a short extension that way you can have a little bit of clearance away from the tire and away from the body. We'll pull that bolt out. Once you have the bolt removed, we're gonna remove the one from the other side as well.We're going to move inside of our trunk. Now, right as we open it up towards the top, we're going to have a tie down hook on each side. We're going to pull these out, so you can grab a flathead screwdriver. There is a really small notch, and you can see the indentation. We need to pry that little line out right there, that little rectangled section. You pry it out because our hook is going to act just like those push pins just shaped a little different. We'll pry that center section out, and we'll be able to remove the rest of the hook. We're going to pull the one off on the other side as well.Now if we move to the floor, we're going to have our tie down hook that's on the bottom, that little silver loop. We need to remove those as well, so we want to take a flat head screwdriver. I'm actually going to come underneath the cover, I'm just going to pry it up a little bit, so I can open it up and expose the nut that's holding it on underneath. You want to grab a T 40 Torx bit, Then I'm going to pull the tie down hook out. We'll take out the other side as well. Right behind towards the outside of the tie down hook, we're going to have our cargo net on each side.Now at the bottom, there is going to be a bar that's running across. We grabbed that bar and we want to push towards the center of the car. We can see that it'll swing up, and we should be able to pull towards the front, and then pulled towards the back, and then we can remove the net. We'll move up. Then we have this little access panel right here. You want to pull that cover off as well, and we'll do that on both sides.Now, if we go to the very back of our trunk right towards the back seat we're going to have two push pins that are actually holding that material to the floor, so we want to pull those out, just get a flat blade screwdriver and trim panel tool again. This time it's just going to be a single push pin. There is no head on it, and we can just pull them out. We can just come underneath the base, and pry the whole push pin up this time. Then we'll pull out the entire floor liner and put it aside.Next, we need to move back towards our tail lights. We want to pull that felt liner away, so we can get behind our tail light and get access to the bolts that are holding it in place, so we just peel back our weatherstripping a little bit. I'm going to take a plastic trim panel tool just to work behind that liner and start pulling it forward. It is notched right here to go around the trunk support, so it will just pull right out of the way, and that will give us access so we can get in here and start removing all the fasteners.If we look right where our tail light connection is, all of our electrical, if we go right around that, we're going to have a total of three studs that are coming through with nuts on them that we're going to have to remove. You can grab an eight millimeter socket, and we can pull those out. You do want to be very careful. You don't want to drop the nut in between the body here because it'll be extremely hard to get out.Then we have one last stud that's coming through towards the top, more a little bit towards the center of our trunk. Now that's going to be a 10 millimeter head, so grab a 10 millimeter socket, and we'll pull that stud out. Again, you want to be extremely careful. Try not to drop that nut because it will be very difficult to get it out. We're going to take the other side out as well.Now we need to remove our electrical plugs before we can pull our tail lights out. If we look on the very top of the plug there is a very small tab. We actually want to press in on that tab. It will probably help if you use a screwdriver like I am, and then get your finger on the bottom to where we can squeeze it, and we're just going to start working that plug out because it may be a little difficult to use your finger, but you want to keep squeezing that tab, and started pushing away from the thing until we can get it unplugged. We'll do the same thing on the other side.When you go to remove your tail light the easiest way that I found is if we actually reach into the inside where that plug was. I'm just going to start pushing my tail light straight back. That way hopefully it will come out easily, and we don't have to worry about the alignment pins breaking or the studs breaking.Now, it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands because we're right at the point where we can remove our fascia. You want to start right where the fender meets the fascia at that corner there. You just grab the fascia and you can start pulling outward. That will start releasing the clips and you just want to start working your way towards the center.Now once you get to about the tail light area, you may have to pivot it, so we can loosen these clips. And then also be mindful right here because our fascia is going to come up right around the trunk, so you may have to start working it loose by hand until we can get it to come loose all the way.All right, then we can slowly pull our fascia away because we are going to have some electrical connectors that we're going to have to disconnect. On each side we're going to have this box. We want to squeeze the tabs on the top and bottom. We may need to get a screwdriver because it is pretty small, a little hard to get to. But, we want to disconnect this plug as well as the one the other side and we're going to have to undo all the cables, pulling them off these clips off the fascia, so you can get access because we're not going to be able to unplug the wire from the car. With everything disconnected, we're going to set our fascia aside where it won't get damaged.Now, on the very side where we removed our fascia, we're going to have our heat shield here. We're gonna have two bolts holding it in place. We need to remove it. We're going to grab a 10 millimeter socket and pull both those out. We'll pull our heat shield out and we'll repeat that same process on the other side.Now, behind the heat shield if we move towards the center of our vehicle we'll find our exhaust hanger. We're going to have one bolt on the top, and if we move underneath there is going to be another one going up to the bottom right by the tailpipe. Now these are going to be external Torx bit bolts. Most people don't have those sockets, but what you can use is either a 12 point 10 millimeter, or a 12.3/8 socket to pull them out. Once we have the bolts removed, we want to rotate the exhaust hanger down and out of the way. We'll do the same thing on the other side of our Mercedes.Right above our muffler on each side, if we look at our bumper beam we're going to have studs that are coming through the back side towards the front of the car. We'll have two nuts on the outer section holding it in place. We need to remove those on both sides, so we'll take a 16 millimeter socket, and we'll pull the nuts off. We'll pull the other side out as well. The other two studs that are on the other side of our bumper beam are going to be coming through on the inside of the trunk panel. You may need to lift the carpet up a little bit, but it will be right here in that indentation where you have that wall on the side. Again, we want to grab that socket and pull those two nuts out. We'll pull the other side out as well.You just want to be careful taking the last nut off because we don't want the bumper beam to fall down. With all the nuts removed, we can pull our bumper beam off and we'll set it aside. Now if we look at our bumper beam we want to come to the inside where we have the studs that will be toward the center of our Mercedes. Now I already removed one, but we're going to need to remove all four of the inner bolts on our bumper beam.The easiest way I found to do it is if you take a cutoff wheel or a Dremel tool, then we're going to come extremely close to the head of that stud, and go in as far as I can with my Dremel tool and then come back with a chisel, knock that out, and knock out the stub with the hammer. You just want to take your time and try not to chew up the bumper beam as much as possible, but it is a very tight fit, so you just want to take your time and cut those studs off. We're going to repeat that for the other two inner holes on our bumper beam on the other side.Once you have the four studs removed from the bumper beam, you want to get some silicone and we're going to put a bead around each one of the mounting holes on each side of our bumper beam. This is just to help in case there is any kind of exhaust fumes that want to leak back into the car, so you want to make sure you put a nice little bead on there, but keep it out of the center of the hole, so we don't have to worry about the threads getting silicone on it. Then we'll go around each one of the mounting locations and put a bead around it.At this point we are going to lay our hitch in front of our bumper beam. We want to take our bumper beam and we're going to line up the studs that we have left with the outer holes on the hitch. Let's place it over, so that it'll go up as one piece. Now you want to get an extra set of hands, and we're going to lift the entire assembly up and put it back on the car.We'll line up our remaining studs, push them through, and then we want to reuse the factory nuts that we took off on the outer bolts. You just want to loosely get those in place, so the hitch and bumper beam will support itself and we can work on getting the rest of the hardware in.Now, for the two holes on the inner side of our bumper structure we've pulled the studs out, so we're going to have to replace those with bolts. I'm going to grab one of the M 10 bolts out of our kit. We're going to follow it up with a flat washer. We're going to push it all the way through. Then we'll move on to the inside of the trunk where we took those nuts off, and then we can put the rest of the hardware in.Here you can see where the bolt came through. We want to put another flat washer in place, and then we're going to secure everything down with a nylon lock nut. This is going to be the same combination of hardware for all four mounting locations on the inside of our bumper structure, so we'll go ahead and repeat putting the same hardware in, in the three remaining holes.Now that everything is in place, we'll come back with that 16 millimeter socket, and we'll tighten up those factory nuts holding the bumper beam in place. And to tighten up our new M 10 bolts, I'm going to use a 17 millimeter socket and wrench. I'm going to use the wrench to hold the nut on the inside. Then we're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware.Now, we want to come back and we're going to torque all of our hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You want to go back and repeat that for all your remaining hardware. Now that our hitch is torqued down, we're going to need to trim a small section of our fascia out. We're only going to be trimming a small section, but you do want to measure. There is a diagram in your instructions that will give you the measurements.But, the biggest thing is you want to find center. Now there is a few indentions in our fascia that will give you an idea, but the easiest way I found is if you find these two openings and you measure the distance between them and you cut it in half and that will give you an accurate measurement of where exactly center is. But I'm gonna go ahead and use a rotary tool to cut out this small section. You can use a razor knife, a pair of 10 snips, but really whatever you have available.Well, now we can lift our exhaust back up and start reinstalling all the components. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to put our fascia back in place, but we want to make sure that we plug in our wiring and put all the connectors back in, so we can plug it in. I want to start routing the wires, and putting them back in the clips once we get it close enough.Once you have everything lined up, we just want to press the fascia in to where those clips will start catching again. Then we can put all the fasteners back in as well. Whenever you put your tail light back in place, you do want to be careful and make sure that all the studs are lined up before you really push on it. We can reconnect our electrical plug and start putting all the nuts back in to hold it in place. Again, you want to be extremely careful not to drop the nut on the inside of the body because we don't want to have to go fishing for it.Then with our hooks, we just want to push those in making sure you leave that tab sticking out. Then we'll press that center tab in and then we'll lock it into place. Then we'll start putting all the fasteners back into the wheel well area as well. Now with everything back in place, we can close our trunk, and we're ready to hit the road.But, that will finish up your look at the Curt Class 1 Custom Fit Trailer Hitch Receiver on our 2018 Mercedes C Class.

Customer Reviews

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4" - C11485

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)

Perfect for light-duty towing, this custom, vehicle trailer hitch receiver features fully welded, gloss powder coated steel construction. Drawbar sold separately.

- C11485

Easy installation 747512

- C11485
2015 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

Amazing product as always. Very detailed step by step installation manual, easy to follow...made me feel like a pro. Very happy with product. Now’s time to install the harness for taillights 569547


Ask the Experts about this Curt Trailer Hitch

  • Availability of Trailer Hitch for 2015 Mercedes-Benz C350 Coupe
    The Curt Class I Receiver Hitch # C11485 referenced in your question is not a confirmed fit for your 2015 Mercedes-Benz C350 Coupe. There is not a trailer hitch currently available that is designed to fit your C350 coupe model. If you happen to be wanting a trailer hitch so you you can transport your bikes, another option is a trunk mounted rack like the excellent Thule Passage 2 Bike Carrier # TH910XT. This carrier is confirmed to fit your vehicle and will secure up to 2 bikes at 35...
    view full answer...
  • Which Curt Trailer Hitch Fits 2018 Mercedes Benz C300
    We have the Curt hitch part # C11485 which is a confirmed fit for your 2018 Mercedes C300 but the part # C13900 is a universal style hitch that isn't a fit.
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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Written by:
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Video by:
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Test Fit:
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