Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs

Item # K2HR712E

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Retail:$483.00

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Trailer Brakes

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Kodiak Hub and Rotor Trailer Brakes - K2HR712E
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Product Images

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  • Disc Brakes
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • Hub and Rotor
  • 16 Inch Wheel
  • 16-1/2 Inch Wheel
  • 17 Inch Wheel
  • 17-1/2 Inch Wheel
  • Kodiak
  • 1/2 Inch Studs
  • Brake Set
  • 8 on 6-1/2
1/2" Wheel bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. E-coated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Kodiak. Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs part number K2HR712E can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (9)
  • Q & A (23)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Kodiak Trailer Brakes - K2HR712E

1/2" Wheel bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. E-coated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.


Features:

  • Brake assemblies make it easy to upgrade from drum to disc brakes for better performance
    • More consistent stopping, even at highway speeds
    • Dramatically shorter stopping distance
  • Maintenance costs are lower than for drum brakes
    • Fewer moving parts to maintain, repair and replace
  • E-coat finish provides corrosion resistance for freshwater and limited saltwater use
  • Integral hub-and-rotor assembly is 1 piece
    • Minimizes lateral runout to prevent warping
    • Provides smooth ride with balanced hub and rotor
    • Uses industry-standard bearings and seals (sold separately) - races included
    • Prevents heat-related damage with vented design that effectively dissipates heat
    • Includes wheel studs - lug nuts sold separately
  • Cast iron calipers are self-adjusting for smooth, equal braking
    • Cast iron construction does not flex like aluminum
    • Low-drag design retracts piston farther than other calipers for a cooler-running brake
    • Silver cadmium piston is 2-1/2" in diameter - 30 percent larger than other brands
      • More braking torque than the competition
    • High-performance, ceramic brake pads
  • Ductile iron mounting brackets provide strength and durability
    • Side-support design ensures that load is placed on bracket, not bolts
    • Extra embossing for additional thread contact ensures tight, secure mounting for caliper guide bolts
    • 5-Bolt brake flange mounting configuration - weld-on flange sold separately
  • Kit includes 2 full brake assemblies
    • 2 E-coated, cast iron rotor-and-hub assemblies
    • 2 E-coated, cast iron calipers
    • 2 E-coated, ductile iron caliper-mounting brackets
    • 4 Stainless steel caliper-mounting bolts
  • Hydraulic brake actuator and lines (sold separately) are required for brakes to be activated
    • Requires psi rating of at least 1,500


Specs:

  • Fits:
    • Axle capacity: 7,000 lbs
      • #42 Spindle
    • Wheel size: 16" and larger
  • Bolt pattern: 8 on 6-1/2"
  • Rotor diameter: 13"
  • Brake flange configuration: 5 bolt
  • Wheel stud diameter: 1/2"
  • 3-Year warranty


Bearing, Race and Seal Information

  • Bearings (sold separately)
    • Inner bearing: 25580
    • Outer bearing: 14125A
  • Races (included)
    • Inner race: 25520
    • Outer race: 14276
  • Seal: RG06-070 (sold separately)
    • Inner diameter: 2.250"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"

Disc Brakes

More and more people are switching their trailers over to disc brakes, and with good reason. Disc brakes deliver consistent braking - even at highway speeds - unlike drum brakes, which often show a substantial drop in braking torque at higher speeds. In addition, disc brakes offer a substantially shorter stopping distance than drum brakes. Disc brake calipers have only one moving part, rather than the many found in drum brakes. This means that there are fewer parts to maintain, fewer parts to get damaged and fewer parts to have to repair or replace, thus reducing maintenance costs.


Integral Hub-and-Rotor Assemblies

The integral hub-and-rotor is made from cast iron, matching SAE specifications. Cast iron is ideal for high-temperature operations and offers a favorable friction coefficient to ensure adequate stopping power. Kodiak's rotors are vented to effectively dissipate heat, dramatically reducing the incidence of heat-related damage. Furthermore, machined disc brakes minimize the chance of contamination between the hub and rotor, resulting in excellent performance and long life.


Calipers

Kodiak calipers are constructed of cast iron to prevent flexing. Less flex means more braking torque, resulting in smooth, even braking every time. The corrosion-resistant stainless steel piston is 30 percent larger than standard pistons, ensuring shorter stopping distance and increased torque. In addition, the unique low-drag design of Kodiak's calipers allows the piston to retract farther than in most standard models, giving you a cooler-running brake.


Mounting Brackets

Designed for axles with 5-bolt brake flange configurations, the included mounting brackets are made of heavy-duty ductile iron that is embossed to provide additional threading for guide bolts. The added thread strength ensures a tighter, more secure connection between the caliper and bracket. Another unique feature of Kodiak's brackets is the side-support angle, which guarantees that the load is carried by the bracket, rather than the bolts.



2/H-133-7-8-EEE-K Kodiak Disc Brakes - 2 Wheel Set - Integral Hub and Rotor - E-Coat Finish - 1/2" Wheel Bolts - 7,000 lbs

Replaces 2/HRCM-133-7-8-E



K2HR712E Installation InstructionsInstallation Details K2HR712E Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 2814SS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 28DBG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 28SAG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 28SKS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 3016SS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 32DBG

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 34RETSD

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 35GSG

2017 - 2017 Highland Ridge Open Range 3X Fifth Wheel 377FLR

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 378RL

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 379RL

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 37RLTSD

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 382RL

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 39CRSG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude Fifth Wheel 39TSG

2018 - 2018 Highland Ridge Open Range 3X Fifth Wheel 3X377FLR

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 40QSD

2019 - 2019 Highland Ridge Highlander 5W Toy Hauler HF350H




Video of Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Installation

Speaker 1: Today we'll be having a look at the Kodiak line of disc brake kits. Here's what our brakes look like installed. Now the reason you're gonna want these particular brakes over your traditional electric style drum brakes is that having hydraulic disc brakes will give you a much better stopping performance and ability than what you would have with the drum brakes. You'll be able to stop a lot faster, a lot smoother, and a lot safer.We're putting less work on our truck and more work is being performed by out camper, our trailer, or our fifth wheel, whatever we are putting these brakes on. Now one of the reasons that we're going to have enhanced stopping ability is because we have a large diameter rotor which gives us increased surface area for our brake pads to bite onto. By having the large rotor this also helps dissipate heat better.

We also have a vented rotor which will help dissipate the heat better. By having the heat being dissipated we are going to have increased brake life and power as we're stopping because as our brakes get hot they get less effective and you experience what is know as brake fade, the hotter the temperature of the brakes the less effective they are at working properly.Now our pads are applied to our brake rotor by our caliper. We have a single piston here which pushes our inner brake pad against the inside surface of the rotor and pulls the caliper towards the rotor so the outside pad makes contact and our caliper has two slides, one at the top, one on the bottom. As the piston pushes the inner pad against the rotor it pulls the caliper body itself with the outer pad onto the rotor thus clamping it, squeezing our rotor, and slowing it down, bringing our trailer to a stop. This piston is designed to operate off hydraulic pressure of at least 1,500 PSI, just keep that in mind if you're converting an old trailer that has electric drum brakes, you need to purchase an actuator that puts out at least 1,500 PSI.Now just like automotive grade brake pads these brake pads are equipped with a chamfered edge on the end and that chamfered edge will help prevent us having squealing and squeaky noise as the brakes are being applies, it'll also help reduce chattering.

This will give us a smoother and quieter ride.The brake pads themselves are made of a ceramic construction which will help cut down on brake dust and also give us more resistance to heat as we're stopping. Now our caliper, our bracket, and our rotor are available in different finishes, we can get them in an E-coat finishing like this, a dacromet finish, or a raw finish it just depends on what you're looking for. The dacromet and the E-coat will be more resistant to rust and corrosion over the course of time over the raw finish.Now these brakes are a great solution for 7,000 pound axles such as this one. They have an eight by six and a half inch bolt pattern and they are available with half inch or 9-16th inch diameter studs depending on your application.Now what I really like about these brake kits compared to other options out on the market is that by having ourselves a disc brake system we get the comfort and stopping ability that we're used to by driving our normal truck or our street car versus having the drum brakes that we use to have. These give us the stopping ability and the comfort that we're used to seeing in a typical automotive vehicle because it's the same concept, it's a hydraulic disc brake versus an electric drum brake.Now only do these stop better than electric drum brakes but we're also going to see a lower service cost when it comes time to actually needing to service our brakes again.

Unlike drum brakes where it's a little bit time consuming in order to replace your shoes in order to replace the brake pads on the system it's a simple matter of just removing two bolts, the caliper slides off, and you can put new pads in, put it back in. It's gonna cost you less money and less time in order to get back on the road.Here's what our kits comes with, we have two of everything you see pictured here. We'll have two rotor hub assemblies, two caliper mounting brackets, two calipers, and two sets of caliper mounting bolts. This is everything that you'll need to put brakes on one axle of your trailer.To begin our install we need to remove our old hub assembly. In this particular case we have electric drum brakes that we're installed so this will be a great upgrade once we replace these.

We'll need to remove our dust cap here, what I like to do is take a flathead screwdriver, go behind the lip, and we'll start to tap it out with a hammer. Now we want to make sure we clean out as much of the old grease from our dust cap as possible. Now we'll clear away the grease from our spindle. Okay with that cleared away we can find our nut retainer from behind all the grease, you'll have a couple different ways of having your spindle nut held in place, ours we have a retainer clip, you could have a cotter pin on yours.For this one we'll use a flathead screwdriver, come behind it, and it comes off. With this removed we can now spin off our nut. We'll set these aside because we will need them later. We'll now remove our washer, just use our flathead screwdriver to help pull it off the spindle. With our washer removed we can now remove our hub assembly. In order to do that just pull it towards you and we can set it aside. Now we'll wipe off all the grease from our spindle and inspect it for any damage such as burring, hot spots, nicks, or wear patterns.Now since our particular axle is an easy lube axle by having the zerk fitting here we're going to flush out all of the old grease from inside of it by using our grease gun. We'll stick it onto the fitting and we'll pump it full of grease until we get clean grease coming out of the spindle. You can see how we flushed out the old grease that way we have fresh, new grease coming out of the port from the spindle, wipe that off, this way we know we don't have any contaminants inside of our axle.Now since we have electric brakes on this trailer we need to remove the wires that go to our magnet. Let's cut those off and make sure we leave slack in case we ever decide to go back to electric brakes that way we can still hook them up and use our existing wiring. Now we can unbolt our backing plate assembly, in order to do that there are five nuts that go around the spindle that hold it in place. Now we can grab the backing plate assembly, pull it off, and discard it. Now that we have our backing plate off and we have most of our brake dust removed we can now really clean off our spindle and get it ready for the install. We'll use some brake parts cleaner, hose it down really good, and wipe it clean.Now we can take our caliper bracket, you'll notice how there's multiple holes around it, this is so we can gain our proper orientation on our axle. These brackets are not side specific, you can put it on either side of your axle, it doesn't matter. The only thing you want to make sure is that this part that says outside faces outside and your caliper attachment points face as close to the back of the axle as possible. We'll slide it on and match up our holes appropriately, as you can see here where we have it it's almost level and it faces towards the back so this is ideal for us. We'll now reinstall the nuts that we're removed, we'll tighten these down, I like to tighten them like a lug nut on a wheel in a crisscross pattern. Now we'll torque them to the appropriate amount.Now to carry on with the installation of our brakes we're ready to grease our wheel bearings and get them installed. Now we have the option of reusing our old ones but since we're putting a whole brand new hub assembly with a rotor on we're going to use new bearings. In our case we're using part number BK3-200. It even comes with new races but since we have brand new races installed on our hub already we're not gonna need the races nor are we gonna need the cotter pin that comes with the kit because we have a clip method of securing our spindle nut.Now we'll take our inner bearing and we'll start to grease it up just by sticking inside a tub of grease and we'll work this grease into our rollers by spinning it as we push it in. You can see we start having the grease come through and covering up our rollers all the way through and it's nice and fluid with no breaks in the grease, that's when we know we're starting to get grease adequately packed inside of our bearings. Wipe some here on the outside edge, we even have it coming through on the other side. Get a nice coating going around the outside of it, we'll wipe some around the inside where it rides against our spindle. Once we have it in the hub we'll rotate it a few times to make sure it spins nice and freely.Now we will install our seal, place it inside, make sure it's sitting as flush as possible, and we can drive it in. Now if you don't have a seal driver what you can use is a block of wood, place it square over the seal, and we can tap it in with a hammer. Once it's sitting flush around the edge of our hub we know we have it properly installed. Now that we have our inner bearing and seal installed we can take some brake parts cleaner, spray it on a towel, and we'll wipe off any oil or grease residue that's on the backside of our rotor assembly.Now we can take our hub assembly and we'll slide it on to the spindle of our axle. Now we can grease our outer bearing the same way we did the inner bearing. Now we can install the outer bearing, we'll slide it into our hub assembly, making sure it goes in properly. Now we'll take our washer, line the notch up with the notch in the axle, push it on, take our nut, thread it onto the spindle. Now we'll start to tighten our nut down, we don't need to have this super tight, just enough that it starts to take all the play out from side to side movement and it is secure. Once it starts to get tight you'll probably have to rotate the hub as we tighten it. We may need to back it off a little bit. Now we will install our nut clip that we removed earlier, that'll keep our nut from backing off.Now we'll take our grease gun, go over the zerk fitting on our axle and we'll pump it full of grease. Now that we see grease coming out of our outer bearing completely we know that the hub and bearings and spindle are completely saturated with grease which is exactly what we're looking for. Now we can reinstall our dust cap, okay with our dust cap back on we'll rotate our hub and rotor assembly and make sure there's no abnormal noises and that it's rotating smoothly and we'll check for any play in it. If we don't feel anything that means everything's good and we can carry on with the rest of the installation.Now we'll take some brake parts cleaner and we'll clean the rotor surface on the outside like we did on the backside. Now we can take our caliper, we already have our two bolts and our slides and we'll install it onto our bracket. We'll screw the bolts into our bracket, we'll tighten the bolts down with a wrench, there are 13 millimeter heads on them. On the backside of our caliper right in the center we'll find the port where our brake line screws into. We'll remove the red plastic plug from the fitting just by unscrewing it, take our brake hose, place it inside the fitting, thread it in a few turns by hand first, and then we'll use a line wrench to tighten it down. You use a line wrench on brake line fittings or brakes hoses because it won't strip off the end of the nut and you'll be able to get a good grip on it to sufficiently tighten it down. We don't need to over tighten these, just enough so it's tight and won't leak. Now that we have this all installed we'll repeat the same process for the other side of the axle.Now we need to begin the process of bleeding our brakes. When we bleed the brakes we'll make sure we're using the top bleeder screw, not the one on the bottom, and we'll be using the smaller section here which is a 5-16ths nut. We'll use a line wrench on this so we don't strip it and we'll have an assistant apply the brake controller on our towing vehicle or pull the brake away switch for our braking system. Go ahead open the bleeder and we're looking for a solid stream of fluid with no air bubbles. Once we have no air bubbles we'll close the bleeder and release the brake away switch and we'll move on to the next one.That completes our look at the Kodiak line of disc brake kits.


Customer Reviews

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs - K2HR712E

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (9 Customer Reviews)

1/2" Wheel bolts are included with this 2-assembly brake kit. E-coated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.

- K2HR712E
by:

Installed on my 2009 Keystone Fuzion FZ302. I was very impressed by the fit and finish. What a difference in braking!! I don't think I will ever own a trailer with electric drums again. I was able to install all four in about 6 hours. This was taking my time to ensure all clearances were exact. The only thing I ran into was the sticky weights on my 16" wheels just touched the caliber. I had the wheels rebalanced with clip weights on the inside and we are now all good. 361387



- K2HR712E
by:

Perfection 505625


Comments

No issues at all . System work great and I like the conversion . Theses where actually the first set I installed here at my shop and have since done 3 more and soon to do another . I will continue to shop and purchase with etrailer

William - 05/07/2019

54953

- K2HR712E
by:

Having hydraulic disc brakes on my trailer is awesome smooth consistent stopping much safer than electric drum brakes 401855



- K2HR712E
by:

Installed complete kit with rotors and actuator ,system works great only had issue with not receiving full order but customer service took care of issue and got the rest of the order out to me. 392903



- K2HR712E
by:

Finally received this disc brake kit for 1 axle after 2 weeks and it appears to be as advertised. 349737



- K2HR712E
by:

Super fast shipping and items received in good condition. Items are 100% as described and although I have not installed them yet I am sure they will work just fine. So happy with etrailer that I have already placed another order. 344616


Comments

Great product !

David M - 02/22/2018

35019

- K2HR712E
by:

I had finally decided after much research to upgrade to hydraulic brakes on my 38' Montana Fifth Wheel. Etrailer provided some much useful information and instruciton along with their quality products. I replaced all wheel/hub assemblies with new bearings and seals. Installed the Kodiak disk brakes and hydraulic lines. I purchased a different controller than the one they offered but the job went reasonably well because everything fit as it should. We traveled South last Winter to Arizona from Washington and I was very impressed by the performance of my new brakes. if I bought another rig I wouldn't hesitate to install these brakes they work so much better than standard electric. 306917


Comments

Ive put about 9,000 miles on the 5th wheel since converting to the hydraulic disc brakes and Im so much more confident in the handling and performance of the brakes and suspension. It was not the easiest job to do but I took my time and did it right so I know I set everything up correctly. Now I have real stopping power, no fade. Good products, durable and built to last.

Brian G - 10/17/2017

29361

- K2HR712E
by:

Easy to install worked perfect 288146



- K2HR712E
by:

Converted my 2010 Raptor 3912lev tri-axel toyhauler to disc brakes with the kodiak kit and hydrastar actuator. Install was very straightforward and the e-trailer folks were extremely helpful in confirming that this kit would work for my trailer and helping with questions while I was installing. Stopping power is excellent, glad I invested in this upgrade --- the fifth wheel really stops the truck now. 188562


Comments

Jason-did you use 316 brake line out of the hydrastar or 1/4 ? I see you have tripple axle and I have only a tandem 5th wheel but have read were some people sense a delay with the electric over hydraulic that went away when they switched to a 1/4 line. Also did your factory in cab controller work with it well? if so what type and year is your truck. Thanks Joe

-- comment by: Joe B - 12/21/2015

16211
Comments

Hi Joe - I used the 3/16 brake line kit from kodiak. I will say that I do notice the slight delay that is documented, but it doesnt bother me and I havent given much thought to trying to eliminate it because the overall braking is so strong. As for my truck, I have a 2006 F350 with the integrated brake controller. The kodiak documentation states that this controller is compatible. The controller works great, with the one exception being that sometimes I get a random chime from my truck when I hit the brakes. No message pops up on my dash, but it will do it from time to time. I think it has to do with the varying amount of voltage it is sensing from the EOH pump. If youre familiar with Fords, it is the same chime that goes off whenever a message appears on the dash computer such as low fuel, or trailer disconnected. As I said I am overall very pleased and glad I spent the money. I have no worries about being able to stop the truck/trailer on the highway.

-- comment by: Jason - 12/21/2015

16217
Comments

Jason, did you use the trailer break away switch that came with your unit or did you have to buy something special? I have a 2007 Montana and am about to do the same conversion to Kodiak disc brakes and the only unanswered question is about the break away switch.Thanks,Dave W.

-- comment by: Dave W - 02/12/2016

16766
Comments

Hi Dave -I followed the wiring diagram and used my existing break-away switch. It just needs to be re-wired per the instructions included with the EOH pump. K

-- comment by: Jason S - 02/12/2016

16775
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Ask the Experts about this Kodiak Trailer Brakes
Do you have a question about this Trailer Brake?


  • Switching from Electric Drum Brakes to Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes on Trailer w/7K Lippert Axles
  • I did some checking and your 7K Lippert axles use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125. We have 7K brake kit options that use these same bearings and have the same 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern as your existing hubs. The most basic kit is # K2HR712. The parts have a raw finish which means no corrosion resistance. The next step up from there is # K2HR712E which has an e-coat finish which is like a powder coat and offers minimal corrosion resistance. What I recommend is the next step...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Parts To Convert Electric Drum Brakes To Electric-Over-Hydraulic Disc Brakes
  • To convert your electric drum brakes to electric over hydraulic disc brakes, you will need disc brake assemblies, a brake line kit and an electric over hydraulic actuator. The disc brake kit I recommend with an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern and fit on your 7,000-lb axles I recommend part # K2HR712E. This kit has an e-coat finish to help prevent corrosion. This kit comes with 2 hub/rotor assemblies, to convert 1 trailer axle. If you are using brakes on both axles you will need 2 kits....
    view full answer...

  • Converting Three 7,000 Pound Dexter Axles to Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes
  • I can certainly help you out with a disc brake set up on your trailer. The first thing we need to find out in order to select the correct parts would be the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings in the hubs you have now. With that information I can ensure that we get you the right parts. I would also need to know the bolt pattern of the wheels and what kind of braking system the trailer currently has. Also, do all 3 of the axles have brake mounting flanges?...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Parts to Convert Electric Brakes on 5th Wheel to Electric Over Hydraulic
  • We don't offer a complete kit for 7K axles, but we do have hub/rotors or slip on rotors that could work depending on the inner and outer wheel bearings or wheel bolt pattern your hubs currently use. For instance, if your hubs use a 25580 inner bearing and a 14125A outer bearing, two of the Kodiak # K2HR712E kits which include the hub/rotors, calipers and caliper brackets would be a good start. The bearings and races are included. You'd also need a line kit like part # DM5425 and an...
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for a Dexter D52-8 Axle
  • Your current brake mounting flange hardware would work to install the mounting flanges of the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712E. The bolt length should be just fine from your mounting flanges. We have installed these kits on several trailer here and have never had to get longer bolts for the flanges. This kit will also fit the spindle you have on your Dexter D52-8 axle. The ID number for your axle means that it is a Dexter 5,200 lb axle with a 8 lug bolt pattern.
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  • Electric Hydraulic Setup Recommend for 2016 Ram 3500 w Dexter 7k Axles on Dutchman Voltage 2015
  • I attached a help article that will walk you through the entire process of adding electric over hydraulic brakes to your trailer. For an Actuator though the Hydrastar part # HBA16 that you referenced would be the one that I would recommend. This is the favorite of our installers here because it works so well and it's overall reliability. For a kit that includes this actuator, a breakaway system and lines that would work well on your trailer you would want the # CAR-HBA16-2. The main...
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  • Disc Brake Kit with 8 on 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 7,000 Pound Axle
  • Since you have 6 lugs it's very possible you have 6,000 pound axles. But either way you can upgrade to an 8 lug for 7,000 pound axles. You'll need to replace the bearings, races, and seals to match the new sized hubs. The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712E with Bearing Kit # BK3-200 will work great on your trailer. These have an e-coat finish to help prevent corrosion from the elements. If you don't already have disc brakes you're also going to need an electric over hydraulic actuator...
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  • Converting Electric Brakes to Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brakes 2006 Heartland Big Horn 5th Wheel
  • We can certainly help you with the components you will need in order to convert your trailer to electric over hydraulic disc brakes. To convert your brakes, you will want to add disc brake hub/rotor assemblies, an electric over hydraulic actuator, and a brake line kit to your trailer. For a disc brake kit that will match your 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern and fit on your 6,000 pound axles, I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit with 13 Inch Hub/Rotor and 8 on 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern # K2HR712E....
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub/Rotor Recommendation for Kodiak 7k Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712E
  • For a replacement hub/drum for your Kodiak Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR712E that you referenced you'd want the part # KHR13712E.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Guide Bolts for Kodiak 250 Calipers
  • Kodiak disc brake kit # K2HR712E uses 250 calipers, # KDBC250E, and the bolts for those are indeed # KGBS. There is also a rebuilt kit should you need additional parts # KDBC250KIT. It comes with the bolts, a new piston, seal, dust boot, and sleeve bushings.
    view full answer...

  • Can Bearing Be Reused When Installing Kodiak Disc Brake Kit with Races Installed
  • If your current bearings are good you can reuse them with a Kodiak disc brake kit that has the races already installed like the Kodiak kit part # K2HR712E. The bearings do not have to always match the original races that were used in the hub.
    view full answer...

  • Compatibility of Kodiak # K2R79 Disc Brake Kit with 5th Wheel w/ Tandem 7K Dexter Axles
  • The Kodiak # K2R79 disc brake kit is designed to slip over an idler hub, not a hub drum. A 7K Dexter axle uses the 25580 inner bearing and a 14125A outer bearing with a 10-36 grease seal. To make that particular kit work, you'd need to remove the existing hub drum and electric brake assembly and install an idler hub that's compatible with your existing axle spindles, like part # 42865-KIT. You'd be better off going with a hub/rotor kit. I'd recommend using the Kodiak # K2HR712E and...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Set Up for 2016 Montana 3710FL 5th Wheel
  • I was able to confirm that your Montana 3710FL uses tandem 7000 lb axles. A 7K axle would typically have an 8 on 6-1/2 wheel bolt pattern and the spindles would be compatible with a 25580 inner and an 14125A outer bearing. You'll want to identify the inner and outer wheel bearings used by your current hub/drums. Let me know if your hubs uses a different outer bearing. If your drums use the 25580 inner and 14125A outer bearing, I'd recommend the Kodiak 13 Inch Hub/Rotor Kit, part # K2HR712E....
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  • Recommendations for Brake Upgrades on 2015 Grand Design 375RE 5th Wheel
  • If you wanted to stay with the electric brakes, and simply swap out your existing brake assemblies for self-adjusting brake assemblies, which would be # AKEBRK-7R-SA for the passenger and # AKEBRK-7L-SA for the driver's side. These brake assemblies are compatible with 12 x 2 inch brake drums (inside diameter x inside depth) which is what a 7000 lb axle would usually use. Given your wheel bolt pattern, you most likely have a 7000 lb axle. You'll want to consult the label you described for...
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Written by:
Lindsey S
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video by:
Joshua S
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Updated by:
Sarah W
Installed by:
Brent H
Updated by:
Hannah L
Updated by:
Mike S

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