Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs

Item # K2HR712D

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Our Price: $492.84

Trailer Brakes

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Shipping Weight: 111 lbs

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Kodiak Hub and Rotor Trailer Brakes - K2HR712D
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Product Images

In Use/Installed

Customer Photos

  • Disc Brakes
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • Hub and Rotor
  • 16 Inch Wheel
  • 16-1/2 Inch Wheel
  • 17 Inch Wheel
  • 17-1/2 Inch Wheel
  • Kodiak
  • 1/2 Inch Studs
  • Brake Set
  • 8 on 6-1/2
Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 assemblies with Dacromet-plated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Kodiak. Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs part number K2HR712D can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.

  • All Info
  • Reviews (4)
  • Q & A (54)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Kodiak Trailer Brakes - K2HR712D

Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 assemblies with Dacromet-plated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.


  • Brake assemblies make it easy to upgrade from drum to disc brakes for better performance
    • More consistent stopping, even at highway speeds
    • Dramatically shorter stopping distance
  • Maintenance costs are lower than for drum brakes
    • Fewer moving parts to maintain, repair and replace
  • Dacromet plating provides superior corrosion resistance for freshwater or saltwater use
    • 300- to 400-Hour salt-spray rating
  • Integral hub-and-rotor assembly is 1 piece
    • Minimizes lateral runout to prevent warping
    • Provides smooth ride with balanced hub and rotor
    • Uses industry-standard bearings and seals (sold separately) - races included
    • Prevents heat-related damage with vented design that effectively dissipates heat
    • Includes wheel studs - lug nuts sold separately
  • Cast iron calipers are self-adjusting for smooth, equal braking
    • Cast iron construction does not flex like aluminum
    • Low-drag design retracts piston farther than other calipers for a cooler-running brake
    • Stainless steel piston is 2-1/2" in diameter - 30 percent larger than other brands
      • More braking torque than the competition
    • High-performance, ceramic brake pads
  • Ductile iron mounting brackets provide strength and durability
    • Side-support design ensures that load is placed on bracket, not bolts
    • Extra embossing for additional thread contact ensures tight, secure mounting for caliper guide bolts
    • 5-Bolt brake flange mounting configuration - weld-on flange sold separately
  • Kit includes 2 full brake assemblies
    • 2 Dacromet-plated, cast iron rotor-and-hub assemblies
    • 2 Dacromet-plated, cast iron calipers
    • 2 Dacromet-plated, ductile iron caliper-mounting brackets
    • 4 Stainless steel caliper-mounting bolts
  • Hydraulic brake actuator and lines (sold separately) are required for brakes to be activated
    • Requires psi rating of at least 1,500


  • Fits:
    • Axle capacity: 7,000 lbs
      • #42 Spindle
    • Wheel size: 16" and larger
  • Bolt pattern: 8 on 6-1/2"
  • Rotor diameter: 13"
  • Brake flange configuration: 5 bolt
  • Wheel stud diameter: 1/2"
  • 3-Year warranty

Bearing, Race and Seal Information

  • Bearings (sold separately)
    • Inner bearing: 25580
    • Outer bearing: 14125A
  • Races (included)
    • Inner race: 25520
    • Outer race: 14276
  • Seal: RG06-070 (sold separately)
    • Inner diameter: 2.250"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"

Disc Brakes

More and more people are switching their trailers over to disc brakes, and with good reason. Disc brakes deliver consistent braking - even at highway speeds - unlike drum brakes, which often show a substantial drop in braking torque at higher speeds. In addition, disc brakes offer a substantially shorter stopping distance than drum brakes. Disc brake calipers have only one moving part, rather than the many found in drum brakes. This means that there are fewer parts to maintain, fewer parts to get damaged and fewer parts to have to repair or replace, thus reducing maintenance costs.

Integral Hub-and-Rotor Assemblies

The integral hub-and-rotor is made from cast iron, matching SAE specifications. Cast iron is ideal for high-temperature operations and offers a favorable friction coefficient to ensure adequate stopping power. Kodiak's rotors are vented to effectively dissipate heat, dramatically reducing the incidence of heat-related damage. Furthermore, machined disc brakes minimize the chance of contamination between the hub and rotor, resulting in excellent performance and long life.


Kodiak calipers are constructed of cast iron to prevent flexing. Less flex means more braking torque, resulting in smooth, even braking every time. The corrosion-resistant stainless steel piston is 30 percent larger than standard pistons, ensuring shorter stopping distance and increased torque. In addition, the unique low-drag design of Kodiak's calipers allows the piston to retract farther than in most standard models, giving you a cooler-running brake.

Mounting Brackets

Designed for axles with 5-bolt brake flange configurations, the included mounting brackets are made of heavy-duty ductile iron that is embossed to provide additional threading for guide bolts. The added thread strength ensures a tighter, more secure connection between the caliper and bracket. Another unique feature of Kodiak's brackets is the side-support angle, which guarantees that the load is carried by the bracket, rather than the bolts.

2/H-133-7-8-DDD-K Kodiak Disc Brakes - 2 Wheel Set - Integral Hub and Rotor - Dacromet Finish - 1/2" Wheel Bolts - 7,000 lbs

Replaces K2HR712SC and 2/HRCM-133-7-8-DAC-K

K2HR712D Installation InstructionsInstallation Details K2HR712D Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 2814SS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 28DBG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 28SAG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 28SKS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 3016SS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar 5W Toy Hauler 32DBG

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 34RETSD

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 35GSG

2017 - 2017 Highland Ridge Open Range 3X Fifth Wheel 377FLR

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 378RL

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 379RL

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 37RLTSD

2016 - 2016 Keystone Big Sky Fifth Wheel 382RL

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude 5W Toy Hauler 39CRSG

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude Fifth Wheel 39TSG

2018 - 2018 Highland Ridge Open Range 3X Fifth Wheel 3X377FLR

2008 - 2008 Forest River Day Dreamer Fifth Wheel 40QSD

2019 - 2019 Highland Ridge Highlander 5W Toy Hauler HF350H

Video of Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Review

Speaker 1: Today, you're gonna be taking a look at the Kodiak disk brake kit with 13 inch hub and rotors with eight on six and a half inch bolt patterns. That's gonna be for 7,000 pound axles. Part number K2HR712D.A lot of people are upgrading their drum brakes to disk brakes on their trailer for good reason. They're gonna ride better, they're gonna give us more breaking power, including on the highway where most drum brakes tend to fade and have less power and there's less moving parts, which means there's gonna be less to maintain, less to replace, which that means the maintenance cost is gonna go down. And overall, a disk brake is gonna give you a lot better braking performance over any kind of drum brake.Here's what our Kodiak disk brake looks like once it's installed. Now, since it is a kit, it's gonna be a lot easier to upgrade from drum brakes to disk brakes, giving us a lot better braking power and a lot more even braking even when we're on the highway.

The fact that it's a disk brake kit makes changing the pads out that much easier. Instead of having to remove a drum and replace all the springs and hardware inside, we can simply remove two bolts on the back of the caliper, swing it out of the way and replace the two pads on the inside. The maintenance cost are gonna be lower than drum brakes because there's gonna be less moving parts to maintain, repair, or replace.Our assembly is gonna have a detriment coding on there, which it's gonna provide superior rust and corrosion protection. Now, while the brake pads are probably gonna wear it off of the breaking surface, every other component is gonna have that on the hub as well as the brackets and the caliper itself providing us a lot more protection against rust or corrosion, making it ideal for any saltwater or fresh water trailers.Along with the coding erosion, they're gonna be vented, helping dissipate some of that braking heat. And our rotors and hubs are gonna be a one piece assembly, giving us that smooth ride, balancing out the hub and rotor, minimizing the lateral run out to prevent any kind of warping.

Our caliper itself does have the coding on it protected and it is a cast iron construction and itself adjusting for smooth, equal braking. Now, the cast iron construction is gonna stay nice and rigid and not flex like aluminum. And the piston has a stainless steel construction and a two and a half inch diameter which is much larger than other brands on the market. The pads themselves are gonna be a high performance ceramic break pad giving us superior braking action.Included in our kit, we're gonna have enough to do one axle. We're gonna have the hub and rotor assembly as well as two caliper and all of the mounting hardware.

Now, keep in mind, in order for the breaks to work, you will need a hydraulic actuator and break lines which are sold separately. The bearings and seals are also sold separately, but the raises are pre installed.Since this is a 13 inch diameter rotor, it is gonna only fit wheels 16 inches or bigger. So now, that we've seen what our Kodiak disk brake kit looks like, and gone over some of the features, lets go ahead and put the last one on together.So we've already moved our wheel and tire and now we're gonna have to remove the dust cap on the end of our axle here. I'm gonna grab a pair of channel locks or whatever you have. You just want to be careful not to crush that cap, but you want to get a good grip on it and kind of work it back and forth a little bit until we can get it broke loose.

If you're having trouble you might want to grab a flat head screwdriver and very carefully, try to get behind the fland on the cap. Go ahead and get it started and work our way around. We're gonna remove that cap. On the inside it may look a little bit different. You may have a coder pin or something else, but we're gonna need to remove the retaining pin or nut at the end here. So we're gonna remove that and hold on to it because we will be using it later.And we should have a nut that we can back off and remove. There's gonna be a plate washer right behind that. If you're having a little bit of trouble grabbing it, what you can do is, you can just reach in, give the drum a good wiggle and it'll start pulling everything out for you. So you want to be careful because the bearing will come out too. And you pull out the drum just a bit and the bearing will fall right out. Once we have the outer bearing and everything else removed, you're gonna want to carefully remove the drum assembly and set it aside. And at this point, I always like to clean off the spindle and inspect everything for any kind of gauges, any heat marks, any kind of damage that may be on there. You just want to get a rag and wipe off any of the excess grease and check the entire area. Make sure it's in good condition. Our break assembly is gonna be held on by these five nuts so I'm gonna grab a nine sixteenth socket and pull 'em out.Once you have the nuts removed, you can pull the break assembly down, but in our case, they're electric brakes so we're gonna have to cut the cable so we can get it pulled away from the axle. Take a pair of side cutters. We're gonna cut the wire, and set this aside. At this point, we can grab our bracket that our caliper's gonna be mounted to. Now, since we're on the right side of the trailer, if we're looking at the axle, we want the mounting points to be at the nine o'clock position. So we can take our mounting bracket, line it up with the studs making sure that that's on the left hand side or towards the back of our trailer, then we can take the nuts that we removed and loosely reinstall. We're just gonna get them on there hand tight so the bracket won't fall down for right now. We can come back with that same nine sixteenth socket and snug up those nuts.Then we're gonna come back with a torque wrench and we're gonna torque our hardware down. Now, the instructions don't give you a torque specification. You're gonna wanna go off what the manufacturer recommends to torque the brake assembly too.Now, we're gonna grab our rotor and we're gonna put it face down. Now, on the back here our race is already pre installed. We went ahead and picked up the corresponding bearings for it and it's gonna fit right there in the back, but before we put 'em in, we're gonna need to pack the bearings with grease. Now, a lot of people don't have a bearing packer at home and I'll show you an easy way to do it by hand. It does take a little bit longer and it's a little messy, but it's not that bad. So we're just gonna take a good amount of grease in our hand. And you don't want to just wipe the bearing with grease. You want to get it into the rollers there so you're gonna take the grease and you're gonna push it as best you can inside that cavity. Kind of wiping it while you're pushing it in there and you can grab the excess grease and kind of keep working it around getting as much grease in the bearing as you can. It's not gonna hurt if you get it on the outside, but the main thing you're really wanting to do is get it on the inside of that channel where the rollers themselves are. And we'll flip it over, grab some more grease and work it into the other side.Once you've got it pretty good, go ahead and go around the outside, put some grease around the bearing, make sure you get as much in there as you can. And then with the tapered part, the thinner part pointing down, we can drop our bearing into the back of the rotor. Make sure it's seated all the way in there and then we can get ready to put the seal in place.So we can take our new seal, we're gonna loosely line it up, make sure it's nice and even. If you have a seal driver this size, I would suggest using that to get it in place, if not, your best bet is to grab a block of wood, put it directly over the seal and then take a hammer and drive it into place. Now, I'm gonna periodically check and see that it's going in even or where I need to adjust.Now that the seal is driven in, we can put our rotor in place. I'm gonna lift it up over the spindle, make sure it seats all the way towards the back. Now, our outer bearing is gonna need to be packed as well. So we want to repeat that same process as we did for the inner bearing. Once we have our bearing packed, gonna go ahead and lift it up over the end of the axle there and we're gonna push it into position. We're gonna make sure it goes all the way back and that it seats in there fully. So with our bearing in place, we can put that washer that came out behind it back in. And then we're gonna place that nut. We're just gonna snug that nut up a little bit. And then after I have it snug, gonna give the rotor a few turns, back it off just a bit. Once that's nice and snug and we have everything back in place, we're gonna pace that retaining nut or coder pin, whatever you're trailer has.And since we've packed it by hand, we want to make sure that our bearing have the full amount of grease in them, so I'm gonna take a grease gun and I'm gonna fill it up until we just get a little bit of grease coming our around the edges of our bearing to make sure that it's full of grease and everything is lubricated properly. The bearing is full of grease, we're gonna put our grease cap back in place. Just want to be careful when you're putting this back on, they can be a bit of a headache. Just want to go around in a circle gently tapping it so it will go in evenly til it's fully seated.So we grab our caliper. Now the two bleeder screws as well as the brake line inlet needs to go towards the inside of the trailer. We're gonna have two mounting bolts. I'm gonna go ahead and loosely put them in there right now. So you want to make sure you have your bolts at least somewhat in the caliper itself when you slide it into position. And it will take a little bit of wiggling to get it into position. And once we have it lined up, we can get the bolts started by hand. And then we can come back with a half inch wrench and tighten them up. And then we come back with a half inch socket and a torque wrench, and we're gonna torque our bolts to the specified amount in the instructions. We're gonna repeat that for the other bolt as well.Since we converted our electric brakes to disk hydraulic brakes, we're gonna have to hook up an actuator and all the brake lines in order for them to work. We went ahead and mounted our actuator, put our brake lines in place, so now we're gonna need to bleed our brakes. You're gonna want to start with the farthest caliper from the actuator itself. And the easiest way to do this is if you have a brake away switch, you can have extra set of hands pull the brake away switch which will apply the maximum force to your brakes and then we can open up the bleeder.I'm gonna take a hose here, put it right on the end of the bleeder so I can watch the fluid or air coming out and then I have a little bit of fluid in the bottom of the bottle so air doesn't get sucked back in. So I'm gonna have my extra set of hands pull the brake away switch and the actuator will kick in. So I'm gonna take a five sixteenths wrench open up my bleeder. And you see some fluid start to come out. So we'll go ahead and close it. Put the break away switch back in. And we'll continue to do that until we get a solid stream of brake fluid 'cause we're gonna keep in mind you always want to double check the reservoir to make sure it's staying full 'cause you don't want to run your actuator dry 'cause then you're just gonna put more air into the system.Then we'll keep doing that with each one of our calipers moving closer to the actuator until we have all of them bled. With all the brakes bled, we're ready to put the wheels and tires back on and hit the road. That'll finish up your look at the Kodiak disk brake kit part number K2HR712D.

Customer Reviews

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs - K2HR712D

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (4 Customer Reviews)

Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 assemblies with Dacromet-plated rotors, calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 7,000-lb axles and 16" and larger wheels. The 13" rotor features an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern.

- K2HR712D

Easy installation and extremely dependable braking power! I use these on a. 33 foot, 16,000 pound flatbed for work. I have 60,000 miles on them and they’re still in great shape. Converting to electric over hydraulic wasn’t cheap, but it was the best investment I made! No brake fade at all, and the stopping power is incredible over the factory electric brakes. 640815

- K2HR712D

These parts are very heavy duty and fit perfectly on my Dexter 7K axles. The backing plates bolt on in place of the drum backing plates using the same bolts. Bearings, caps and seals are NOT included, but they are interchangeable with the drum brake system that it replaces so parts are readily available for any future repairs needed. At a minimum, you must order new grease seals because it's about impossible to get the old ones out without destroying them. I suggest ordering new bearings too so you aren't gambling on the old bearings still being serviceable. I didn't and lost my bet so I had to make an unscheduled visit to the local parts house where the prices aren't as good as etrailer. The Dacromet appears to be an excellent coating, but since everything is still new, it's too soon to say how it will hold up to the weather. The bolts come pre-treated with thread locking compound so no lock-tite required when installing the calipers. I had one small problem where one of the brass hose fittings got smashed in shipping due to a combination of careless handling and insufficient packing. The caliper box has a protective pocket that looks like it's designed specifically to protect from this type of damage, but the rotors are heavy enough to defeat that feature when subjected to typical shipping company box banging. etrailer customer service handled this great and got a replacement caliper shipped out same day so I am very pleased with their support in spite of the temporary setback on getting to use my new brakes. I would like to see the kits packaged in a bit more padding and a heavier duty box that can stand up to delivery drivers. All 4 of my boxes were in pretty rough shape to include holes with parts protruding, but the only actual damage was one brass fitting. So how do they work? Outstanding! I have pulled trailers with electric drum brakes for decades. I have never had a trailer stop itself anywhere near as well as this. In spite of the significantly higher cost for this system, it is well worth the peace of mind knowing that I can stop just as well with the trailer as I can without. I can't count how many times I've used bad words while trying to avoid a collision due to weak trailer brakes. Those days are gone! I plan to do the same upgrade to my other trailer too. 619499

- K2HR712D

I've bought this disc brake kit a year ago and towed over 16K miles. THIS SYSTEM IS AWESOME! No more bucking and chucking or clanging or weak brakes. I tow with 2017 Ram 3500 4X4 and I can stop almost as fast with the trailer on as without. NO brake fade! No squeal! If you're still using electric brakes you're not safe. Totally worth the $$ and time. 581177

- K2HR712D

Ericka was a great help. Installing this week. 245961



Craig L - 04/28/2017


Ask the Experts about this Kodiak Trailer Brakes
Do you have a question about this Trailer Brake?

  • Parts Needed to Upgrade From 7K to 8K Axle and Convert to Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes
  • In order to change from an 7,000 pound axle to an 8,000 pound axle you will need to replace the entire axle with an 8K model. You will not be able to add any parts to your current axle to upgrade it to an 8,000 pound capacity. We do not currently have any 8,000 pound axles available but you will want to find one that features the same hub face and spring center length to what you currently have. Then in order to convert from electric drum brakes to electric over hydraulic disc brakes...
    view full answer...

  • Switching from Electric Drum Brakes to Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes on Trailer w/7K Lippert Axles
  • I did some checking and your 7K Lippert axles use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125. We have 7K brake kit options that use these same bearings and have the same 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern as your existing hubs. The most basic kit is # K2HR712. The parts have a raw finish which means no corrosion resistance. The next step up from there is # K2HR712E which has an e-coat finish which is like a powder coat and offers minimal corrosion resistance. What I recommend is the next step...
    view full answer...

  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation to fit 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
  • For your Dexter 7k axles the Kodiak Kit part # K2HR712D would fit and work well. Your EZ lube grease caps from your current hubs will fit the hub/rotors and for bearings you would need # 25580 and # 14125A and then for the seal you would want the part # RG06-070.
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed To Convert Kaufman Mini 5 To Disc Brakes
  • To covert your Kaufman Mini 5 Car Hauler Trailer to disc brakes, you are correct Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712D will be needed, if you have capacity of 7000 lbs per axle and 8 on 6 1/2 bolt pattern. If your trailer currently has electric over hydraulic drum brakes, you already have a lot of the parts you need for disc brakes. All you will need are disc brakes and a different actuator since discs require a higher PSI rating than the drum brakes do. The races are included, the inner...
    view full answer...

  • Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes, Leaf Springs, Bearings, Hardware, & Brake Lines for Dexter 7K Axles
  • Since the ProLube kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT is only rated for use on 5,200 to 6,000 pound axles I do not recommend using it for 7,000 pound axles. Grease would be better for marine applications since a hub full of grease repels water and an oil bath hub could just let the water set on top. The correct grease seal for disc brake kit # K2HR712D is # RG06-070. It does have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and the outer diameter at 3.376 inches will fit the hub in the disc brake kit. Spring...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Recommendation for Converting to Electric/Hydraulic Disc Brakes on 2017 Montana 3160RL
  • Since you have Dexter 7,000 lb axles the Kodiak Disc Brake kit part # K2HR712D is the correct kit. You'd need a kit for each of your axles that you want disc brakes on. This kit is also Dacromet coated which means it will resist corrosion for a very long time. You'll also need bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A as well as the seals part # RG06-070. Then for an actuator kit with brake lines and everything else you'll need I recommend the HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic Actuator w/ Line...
    view full answer...

  • Picking Out Trailer Hub/Rotors for Dexter 7,000 lb Axle
  • I really wish I had a way to look that up but since either hub would fit the same spindle that info isn't available for me to look up. You'll have to measure the stud diameters and go with the part # K2HR79E if they are 9/16 inch or part # K2HR712D if they are 1/2 inch.
    view full answer...

  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Dexter 7k Axle with Nev-R-Lube Bearings
  • For a Dexter 7k axle with Nev-R-Lube catridge-style bearings the correct disc brake kit you'd need is the Kodiak XL-Lube Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712D which would fit and work well. I attached a review video for this kit as well. This kit has an E-coating which is similar to powder-coat which will help fight corrosion.
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Updated by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video by:
Joshua S
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
Chris R
Photos by:
Zach O
Updated by:
Sarah W
Installed by:
Brent H
Installed by:
Robert C
Updated by:
Hannah L
Updated by:
Mike S

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