Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs

Item # K2HR526DS

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Trailer Brakes

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Kodiak 6000 lbs Axle Trailer Brakes - K2HR526DS
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Product Images

In Use/Installed

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  • Disc Brakes
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • Hub and Rotor
  • 14-1/2 Inch Wheel
  • 15 Inch Wheel
  • 16 Inch Wheel
  • Kodiak
  • 1/2 Inch Studs
  • Brake Set
  • 6 on 5-1/2
Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 corrosion-resistant, Dacromet-plated hub-and-rotor assemblies, as well as stainless calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 15" and larger wheels and 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb axles with 5-bolt flanges. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Kodiak. Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs part number K2HR526DS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.

  • All Info
  • Reviews (3)
  • Q & A (18)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Kodiak Trailer Brakes - K2HR526DS

Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 corrosion-resistant, Dacromet-plated hub-and-rotor assemblies, as well as stainless calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 15" and larger wheels and 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb axles with 5-bolt flanges.


  • Brake assemblies make it easy to upgrade from drum to disc brakes for better performance
    • More consistent stopping, even at highway speeds
    • Dramatically shorter stopping distance
  • Maintenance costs are lower than for drum brakes
    • Fewer moving parts to maintain, repair and replace
  • Dacromet plating provides superior corrosion resistance for freshwater or saltwater use
    • 300- to 400-Hour salt-spray rating
  • Integral hub-and-rotor assembly is 1 piece
    • Minimizes lateral runout to prevent warping
    • Provides smooth ride with balanced hub and rotor
    • Uses industry-standard bearings and seals (sold separately) - races included
    • Prevents heat-related damage with vented design that effectively dissipates heat
    • Includes wheel studs - lug nuts sold separately
  • Stainless steel calipers are self-adjusting for smooth, equal braking
    • Stainless steel construction does not flex like aluminum
    • Low-drag design retracts piston farther than other calipers for a cooler-running brake
    • Stainless steel piston is 2-1/4" in diameter - 30 percent larger than other brands
      • More braking torque than the competition
    • High-performance, ceramic brake pads
  • Dacromet coated mounting brackets provide strength and durability
    • Side-support design ensures that load is placed on bracket, not bolts
    • Extra embossing for additional thread contact ensures tight, secure mounting for caliper guide bolts
    • 5-Bolt brake flange mounting configuration - weld-on flange sold separately
  • Kit includes 2 full brake assemblies
    • 2 Dacromet-plated, cast iron rotor-and-hub assemblies
    • 2 Stainless steel calipers
    • 2 Dacromet-plated caliper-mounting brackets
    • 4 Stainless steel caliper-mounting bolts
  • Hydraulic brake actuator and lines (sold separately) are required for brakes to be activated
    • Requires psi rating of at least 1,500


  • Fits:
    • Axle capacity: 5,200 lbs - 6,000 lbs
      • #42 Spindle
    • Wheel size: 15" and larger
  • Bolt pattern: 6 on 5-1/2"
  • Rotor diameter: 12"
  • Brake flange configuration: 5 bolt
  • Wheel stud diameter: 1/2"
  • 3-Year warranty

Bearing, Race and Seal Information

  • Bearings (sold separately)
    • Inner bearing: 25580
    • Outer bearing: 15123
  • Races (included)
    • Inner race: 25520
    • Outer race: 15245
  • Seal: RG06-070 (sold separately)
    • Inner diameter: 2.250"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"

Disc Brakes

More and more people are switching their trailers over to disc brakes, and with good reason. Disc brakes deliver consistent braking - even at highway speeds - unlike drum brakes, which often show a substantial drop in braking torque at higher speeds. In addition, disc brakes offer a substantially shorter stopping distance than drum brakes. Disc brake calipers have only one moving part, rather than the many found in drum brakes. This means that there are fewer parts to maintain, fewer parts to get damaged and fewer parts to have to repair or replace, thus reducing maintenance costs.

Integral Hub-and-Rotor Assemblies

The integral hub-and-rotor is made from cast iron, matching SAE specifications. Cast iron is ideal for high-temperature operations and offers a favorable friction coefficient to ensure adequate stopping power. Kodiak's rotors are vented to effectively dissipate heat, dramatically reducing the incidence of heat-related damage. Furthermore, machined disc brakes minimize the chance of contamination between the hub and rotor, resulting in excellent performance and long life.


Kodiak calipers are constructed of stainless steel to prevent flexing and rust. Less flex means more braking torque, resulting in smooth, even braking every time. The corrosion-resistant stainless steel piston is 30 percent larger than standard pistons, ensuring shorter stopping distance and increased torque. In addition, the unique low-drag design of Kodiak's calipers allows the piston to retract farther than in most standard models, giving you a cooler-running brake.

Mounting Brackets

Designed for axles with 5-bolt brake flange configurations, the included mounting brackets are made of heavy-duty, corrosion-resistant stainless steel that is embossed to provide additional threading for guide bolts. The added thread strength ensures a tighter, more secure connection between the caliper and bracket. Another unique feature of Kodiak's brackets is the side-support angle, which guarantees that the load is carried by the bracket, rather than the bolts.

2/H-12-DSD Kodiak Disc Brakes - 2 Wheel Set - Integral Hub and Rotor - Dacromet Finish and Stainless Steel - 5,200 lbs - 6,000 lbs

Replaces 2/HRCM-12-SCAD-SS (K2HR526SCS) and 2/HRCM-12-DAC-SS

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

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2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Silverback Fifth Wheel 30LRKSA

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2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Silverback Fifth Wheel 30LSTS

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 30QSB

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2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 30TS

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2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 31RK

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2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel 32TK

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Silverback Fifth Wheel 33LBHTS

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Silverback Fifth Wheel 33LBSA

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 33SB

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 33TBH

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 33TS

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cardinal Fifth Wheel 33WB

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel 34RKTS

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel 34RLSA

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel 34SATS

2008 - 2008 Forest River Cedar Creek Fifth Wheel 36RLTS

2016 - 2017 Highland Ridge Mesa Ridge Fifth Wheel MF346FLR

See All Vehicle Fits

Video of Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Installation

Today on our boat trailer we'll be doing a complete brake overhaul using the Kodiak six foot length one, that is part number BH-3MFS-6. All right, to begin our installation, we'll start by removing our old brake caliper and bracket. You may not have to do this, depending on if your axle already has brakes on it or not, so we'll just get these bolts off here. Set them aside, because we may need to re-use them. Okay, we'll save the bolts. The old caliper and brackets, we can discard those, since they're not any good. Now we can remove our brake rotor and hub assembly. To do that we need to remove this dust cap here.

Just knock off the dust cap, like so, and we can grab some towels and clean some of this grease out of the middle so we can see the hub nut retention device. You could either have a cotter pin or a tang washer, something of that nature. Right here, at the tip of the screwdriver, is the part of the tang washer this axle has to retain the hub nut. We'll just bend that down towards the spindle, hold it flat, we should be able to remove our nut here, just like so. Take our nut off and save it, so we'll be re-using that. Pry off the tang washer here and with our tang washer off, we can clean all the grease off of it so we can easily see it when we re-install it later to secure our hub nut. We can now take out, holds the outer bearing in place, take that guy off, and we can just remove the rotor and both bearings.

We're replacing the bearings, so we don't need to worry about the condition of those and clean off our spindle of all the old grease. All right, here's our new caliper bracket. It slides over our spindle here. Notice it has a varying amount of bolt holes in it. That's so you can rotate it and orient it to get the maximum amount of bolt coverage. There's, on this particular axle flange here, there's one, two, three, four, five bolt holes.

So we're probably going to use all five. First, we need to clean out this other queue 00:02:52 here that didn't have any bolts in there to begin with, of all the dirt and debris, dig out that mud. We'll spray out the rest of that with penetrant. All right, I found a tap that fits that we're going to clean out our bolt holes with it. We'll back it out and we'll spray it some lubricant again. So you can see there was a lot of stuff in there.

We can install our caliper bracket here. Just make sure you pay close attention to where it says "outside" you want that facing on the outside, obviously. We'll slide our bracket over. I'm going to choose to use all new hardware for mine, because I had some readily available. Make sure we line this up, where all five holes are lined up. We'll take our new hardware, making sure we have a lock washer and install it. We'll do these two here loosely, because we may need to run some additional washers down to space them out. Get these installed here. Now we can grab a socket and a ratchet and tighten the back three down. So we're probably going to need about two washers on that one and this one here, so I'll go ahead and remove it and install the washers. All right, I didn't actually like how the washers we're lining up against that flange when we we're trying to crush down, so I took them over to the grinder that we have here and just grinded this flat edge on them so that they would sit flush against the flange. All right, now we can pack our inner wheel-bearing here with some grease. Install it into our rotor and hub assembly, and install our wheel seal. So, we'll take some grease from our bearing packer here and just start working it in to our wheel bearing, working it all in all the way around, making sure it starts coming in through the rollers. All right, once our bearing is completely packed with grease, we can install it into our rotor like so, take our wheel seal here, put it into place, and gently tap it into position with a hammer until it bottoms out. Work our way around it evenly. Now with our seal installed, we can slide our bearing and hub assembly and rotor onto our spindle like so. Now we can pack our outer wheel bearing and install it as well. We're going to do the same process with the outer wheel bearing, get a nice coat of grease on it and start working it in. With our outer wheel bearing nicely coated with grease, we'll install it. With our bearing installed, we'll take our flat washer here, push it into place, take our tang washer, which is what we'll use to secure our nut, slide it into place as well. Take our nut, now we'll take a pair of pliers and we'll start tightening down while we're rotating the rotor to make sure that we put a good pre-load on the bearings. I like to spin them backwards, myself, while doing this. Once it starts getting tight, we'll go one more. With our pre-load properly adjusted on our bearing, and it tight, we can fold our tang down to lock it into place. We'll shoot some grease through the zerk fitting here, just to make sure there's plenty of grease inside it. Now, only a squirt or two will do. Once you start seeing grease come out of the back of the wheel seal, you know you have enough grease in there. Now we can reinstall our dust cover here. See that, we'll just center it over our axle. Once it sits flush against the rotor all the way around, we're done. Let's take some brake parts grease and clean off any grease or dirt or oil that got on the rotor. Spray it down and wipe it off with a towel. We can install our brake caliper. We'll just slide it over our bracket and we'll tighten these two 13 millimeter bolts here to our bracket. Okay, with these bolts now down, the last thing we need to do to our caliper, on our outboard pad here, we need to stake the brake pad by bending these tabs down, to help secure our brake pad to the caliper so it doesn't rattle. To do that, we can use a two hammer technique, using a small hammer and a slightly bigger hammer. So we take our small hammer here, ballpeen edge against it like so. We'll take our big hammer and hit the small hammer. Doing this to both tabs. Once that's done, we can repeat the same exact process in the other side of the trailer. So we'll unscrew our protective cap that was on our brake hose fitting on our caliper to start our brake hose and thread it in. Then we can tighten it with a three-eighths inch wrench. The brake hose we're using is six feet long. It is part number BH-3MFS-6. We'll snug it down until it's snug. We don't want to strip these out, so once you start feeling a little resistance, just go a little bit past that and you'll be good. With all of our connections made for our brake hoses, we can fill our master cylinder with some fresh clean brake fluid from an unopened container. Fill it up and re-secure our cap like so. We can open up the brake leader on the passenger side, because it's the furthest from the master cylinder, and we're going to use the top one. You always use the top brake leader. So we'll open this up a little bit using a seven-sixteenths wrench. Now we can start bleeding our brakes. You can take your safety chain here and give you a place to rest a 2 x 4 or metal pipe along, and you can push the tongue of the trailer back into the master cylinder, and we can begin the bleeding process. Pushing back on the tongue like so and we'll just keep on doing this process until we have no air bubbles coming out of the bleeder screw on either caliper. All right, now that we've had a steady stream of fluid coming out of the passenger side leader screw on the top, we'll do the same on the driver's side. Once we have a steady stream of fluid coming out of that one as well, we'll top off our brake fluid in the master cylinder and we will check the system for any leaks at any connection points where our hoses meet and if no leaks are found, our hydraulic portion of the brake system is done. So we can go ahead and put our wheels back on now at this point and time. And that completes the installation of the Kodiak disc brake kit, part number K2HR526DS.

Customer Reviews

Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 12" Hub/Rotor - 6 on 5-1/2 - Dacromet and Stainless - 6,000 lbs - K2HR526DS

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (3 Customer Reviews)

Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 corrosion-resistant, Dacromet-plated hub-and-rotor assemblies, as well as stainless calipers and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 15" and larger wheels and 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb axles with 5-bolt flanges.

- K2HR526DS

My order shipped and was delivered faster than expected. The parts are top quality and the installation has gone smoothly. I am very pleased with the staff at e trailer as they were very helpful, courteous, and were genuinely concerned with my order. I definitely will order again from e trailer and will recommend them to my friends. Thank you e trailer for your help. 301946


PerfectNice to have safe braking while pulling my boat trailer. etrailer is definetly a safe and honest place to order from.

Homer - 09/30/2017


- K2HR526DS

One year in and still no problems and functioning great. 295709

- K2HR526DS

Bolted right on. It was half day job ripping the old drums off and installing these, they work flawlessly, been dipped in the ocean a few times now and no visible signs of rust yet. Sometimes I show off the effectiveness of the disc brakes to my friends. I have a 7,700lb boat and I'll only use my brake controller instead of my brake pedal going down steep hills. the trailer brakes quickly and effectively slow the GMC Yukon and boat by themselves with no vehicle brakes. I've attached photos of the old drums I tore out and a few phases of the install as well as the entire vehicle to see what I'm talking about. These brakes make all the difference in the world, not just because my drums were shot, but these brakes STOP on a dime. Enjoy! 284059


Ask the Experts about this Kodiak Trailer Brakes
Do you have a question about this Trailer Brake?

  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Boat Trailer with 6k Axles
  • Based on what you listed as having on your trailer axle the Kodiak Disc brake kit part # K2HR526D that you listed would be the correct kit. Since you said saltwater you might be more interested in the kit that has stainless steel rotors, calipers, and mounting brackets # K2HR526DS. You'll need to swap to a disc braker compatible surge brake actuator as well though since they require higher psi ratings than drum. For that the surge brake actuator part # T4750720 would work great as it...
    view full answer...

  • Disk Brake Kit and Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Recommendation to Fit Dexter 5,200 lb Axles
  • Yes, the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR526DS that you referenced will fit a Dexter 5,200 lb axle like yours as that is what it was designed to fit. This kit has stainless steel and dacromet coated components so it will last a very long time and will be very reliable. The bearings needed are sold separately but are # 25580 and # 15123. The EOH kit you would want is the HydraStar EOH Actuator Kit part # HBA16-252-82. The Hydrastar actuators are the most reliable and best performing actuators...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Convert Boat Trailer from Surge Disc Brakes to Electric-Over-Hydraulic Disc Brakes
  • A good starting point for your project to convert your tandem boat trailer from surge disc brakes to electric-over-hydraulic disc brakes is a read of the linked article, which covers this process completely. For a brake controller I recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 # 90885; this is among the most popular and reliable units we offer and it will work with both electric brakes and electric over hydraulic (EOH) systems. You'll use quick-connect harness # 3040-P to plug the controller in...
    view full answer...

  • Availability of Oil Bath Hub/Rotor for 6K Axle on EZ Loader Trailer
  • The rotors included with the Kodiak 12 Inch # K2HR526DS Disc Brake Kit you referenced can easily be converted from grease to oil bath hubs by using the the Kodiak XL ProLube kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. The ProLube kit includes 2 oil caps, two oil seals and an 8 oz bottle of oil. The kit is compatible with the disc brake kit I've recommended. The disc brake kit uses the Kodiak 225 calipers you referenced. The # K2HR526DS kit will be compatible if your existing hub/rotor uses a 25580...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Surge Brake Parts for 2004 5 Starr Boat Trailer
  • It sounds like you have a Demco Actuator to me like # DM8104002. We also have one with a 4 inch drop # DM8104311. Both are Hydraulic Brake Actuators that are rated at 12,500lbs.,has a 2-5/16 inch ball, and bear the DA10 model number. I was able to look up your boat trailer and the parts used between packages varied. I can help you pick out Rotors, Lines, Calipers, and Pads if you can provide me with more information about the current items on the trailer. I will need the number of...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Disc Brake Coating for Twice Yearly Salt Water Exposure
  • From lowest corrosion resistance to highest, the raw steel finish would offer no corrosion resistance whatsoever. E-coat, which is a cross between a painting and a plating process would offer a fair amount of corrosion resistance. Dacromet, which is a water based coating offers pretty good corrosion resistance. Stainless would offer the best. As long as you spray everything down very well after exposure, the Dacromet coated brakes would be an excellent choice for you, offering good protection...
    view full answer...

  • Converting EZ Loader Tandem Axle Aluminum Boat Trailer to Disc Brakes
  • A great place to start your boat trailer brake conversion project is the linked article that covers the topic of changing a trailer to disc brake operation. The article includes links and details about the whole conversion process. If you choose to convert your tandem axle aluminum boat trailer from hydraulic drum to hydraulic disc brakes you will also need to replace your actuator since disc brakes require higher pressure to operate. You may be able to replace just the master cylinder...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Drum and Disc Brake Kits for Tandem Axle Boat Trailer Used in Salt Water
  • We can help you with new brakes for your tandem-axle boat trailer that is used in a salt water environment. We offer both electric and hydraulic drum brakes. Electric brakes are more and more supplied as the OEM equipment on boat trailers. This is mostly due to their lower cost and generally far simpler installation than hydraulic brakes. However, we do not have any drum brakes of either type with stainless steel construction. We DO have disc brake kits with stainless components...
    view full answer...

  • What Would Cause Trailer Brakes to Lock Up When Trailer Wiring is Connected
  • Sounds like there's a short between the 12 volt accessory circuit which is hot all the time and the brake output circuit which activates the trailer brakes when there is voltage on the circuit. Test the voltage of your 7-way on your tow vehicle with a circuit tester like part # PTW2993 on the pin in the 5:00 position. This should only have power on it when the brakes are applied. If there is voltage here the short is on the vehicle side and most likely behind the connector. If there...
    view full answer...

  • Does the Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly # K1HR526DS Come with Stainless Steel Backing Plate Brake Pads
  • Yes, the brake pads that are included with the Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly # K1HR526DS have stainless steel backing plates. The reason the part # K2HR526DS is twice as much as the part # K1HR526DS that you referenced is because the part # K1HR526DS is for on ONE disc brake assembly and the part # K2HR526DS is for a pair of them, or enough to do one axle. Check out the review video I attached for more info.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Protectors For Kodiak Disc Brake Kit
  • The Hub inside diameter on the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, part # K2HR526DS measures 2.441 inches diameter. The Bearing Buddy I recommend is part # BB2441. These are made of stainless steel internal parts and triple-chromed plated steel barrel. These also include the rubber covers. For stainless steel construction that is perfect for marine applications you can check out part # BB2441SS. I have attached a product review video you can take a look at.
    view full answer...

  • Can Electric Brake be Used on a Boat Trailer
  • Electricity and water don't mix well, but we are starting to see more boat trailer manufacturers go with electric drum brakes. As long as you unplug the brakes before backing into water you should be fine. You would also need to let the assemblies dry before reconnecting them. From the looks of the picture you submitted it looks like you have the standard 4 bolt brake mounting flange. Next you would need to measure your current drums to pick out the correct assemblies. See attached...
    view full answer...

  • Disc Brake Replacement Parts for 2011 E-Z Loader Tandem Axle Boat Trailer
  • We can help you with replacement disc brake parts like calipers and oil bath hub/rotors for your E-Z Loader trailer. Since we have no way to look up your trailer VIN to find those specific parts I contacted them for help identifying the details on your trailer. Your spindles/hubs use bearings # L68149 and # L44649 so this means you can use Kodiak # KHR10D (dacromet finish). It has the 5-on-4-1/2 bolt pattern and includes bearings and races. EZ Loader said the oil seals are hard to find...
    view full answer...

  • What Parts of Kodiak Dacromet/Stainless Disc Brake Kit K2HR526DS Are Made of Stainless Steel
  • The mounting brackets in Kodiak Dacromet and Stainless Disc Brake Kit # K2HR526DS are stainless steel, as are the calipers. The 1-piece hub/rotor assemblies are the Dacromet plated components. This kit works for axles rated from 5200- to 6000-lbs; an install video is linked for reference.
    view full answer...

  • Kodiak Disk Brake Kit Recommendations for Corrosion Resistance on an Aluminum Boat Trailer
  • The dacromet and stainless combination of the Kodiak Brake Kit part # K2HR526DS would work very well to fight corrosion. For the ultimate in corrosion resistance that would be my recommendation for if your boat trailer will see saltwater I would recommend the entirely stainless kit Kodiak Disc Brake Kit part # K2R526S.
    view full answer...

  • Could Disc Brakes be Added to McClain ATT-2040 Boat Trailer
  • I was able to determine that your McClain ATT-2040 trailer has UFP axles that do not come with brakes installed so the first thing you have to do is determine if you have brake flanges on your axles. I attached a picture of what the flanges look like for you to check out as well as a help article on how to add brakes to trailer axles as well. The guides will walk you through adding either electric over hydraulic disc brakes or hydraulic brakes.
    view full answer...

  • Axle Recommendation For Use With Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, part # K2HR526DS
  • The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, part # K2HR526DS, will fit on a 5200 lb to 6000 lb axle with 5-bolt brake mounting flanges. This kit will require you to use 15 inch and larger wheels with a bolt pattern of 6 on 5-1/2 inches. The disc brake kit will work on a torsion axle if it has a 5-bolt brake mounting flange welded to the spindle. The brake mounting flange would be like the Redline Brake Mounting Flange, part # 4-44-1. This flange has a bolt pattern of 5 on 3/7/8 inches, which will accept...
    view full answer...

  • Information Needed to Pick Out a Surge Disc Brake Kit for a Trailer
  • We have all the parts you would need. But to pick them out we first need to know more information on your trailer. We'll need to know the bolt pattern of your wheels (see help article), the current hubs you have on your trailers bearing numbers or spindle dimensions, and the brake mounting flange style you have on the axles. With all that info we can pick out everything you would need. I attached a link to a help article that covers everything you would need and will walk you through...
    view full answer...

Do you have a question about this Trailer Brake?

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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Expert Research:
Michael L
Updated by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Updated by:
Adele M
Expert Research:
Adam R
Photos by:
Amber A
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Mike S

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