Videos are provided As a guide only. Refer To manufacturer
installation instructions And specs For complete information.
Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 corrosion-resistant, Dacromet-plated hub-and-rotor assemblies; calipers; and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 13" and larger wheels and axles with 4-bolt flanges.
Bearing, Race and Seal Information
More and more people are switching their trailers over to disc brakes, and with good reason. Disc brakes deliver consistent braking - even at highway speeds - unlike drum brakes, which often show a substantial drop in braking torque at higher speeds. In addition, disc brakes offer a substantially shorter stopping distance than drum brakes.
Disc brake calipers have only one moving part, rather than the many found in drum brakes. This means that there are fewer parts to maintain, fewer parts to get damaged and fewer parts to have to repair or replace, thus reducing maintenance costs.
The integral hub-and-rotor is made from cast iron, matching SAE specifications. Cast iron is ideal for high-temperature operations and offers a favorable friction coefficient to ensure adequate stopping power. Kodiak's rotors are vented to effectively dissipate heat, dramatically reducing the incidence of heat-related damage. Furthermore, machined disc brakes minimize the chance of contamination between the hub and rotor, resulting in excellent performance and long life.
Kodiak calipers are constructed of cast iron to prevent flexing. Less flex means more braking torque, resulting in smooth, even braking every time. The corrosion-resistant stainless steel piston is 30 percent larger than standard pistons, ensuring shorter stopping distance and increased torque. In addition, the unique low-drag design of Kodiak's calipers allows the piston to retract farther than in most standard models, giving you a cooler-running brake.
Designed for axles with 4-bolt brake flange configurations, the included mounting brackets are made of heavy-duty ductile iron that is embossed to provide additional threading for guide bolts. The added thread strength ensures a tighter, more secure connection between the caliper and bracket. Another unique feature of Kodiak's brackets is the side-support angle, which guarantees that the load is carried by the bracket, rather than the bolts.
Video of Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 10" Hub/Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet - 3,500 lbs
Videos are provided As a guide only. Refer To manufacturer
installation instructions And specs For complete information.
Today on our boat trailer, we'll be installing the Kodiak disc brake kit with ten inch hub and rotor, part number K2HR35D. To begin our install, we'll first need to remove the wheels, and then the old hub and drum assemblies. To remove the wheel, remove the lug nuts and secure it. To remove the hub drum assembly, we'll start by removing the dust cap, and underneath the dust cap there will be a cotter pin.Go ahead and pull the cotter pin, then we'll remove the castle nut from the axle. Once we remove the castle nut we can go ahead and remove the hub and drum assembly, leaving our old drum brakes and backing plate. For install we'll also need to remove this backing plate, which secures the wheel cylinder. We'll go ahead and remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder first.
After we remove the brake line, we can then remove the four fasteners that secure the backing plate to the axle. With our four fasteners removed, we'll go ahead and take the backing plate off and set it aside; it will not be reinstalled. However, do hang on to your hardware, because we'll be reusing that to secure the caliper bracket to the axle. We'll go ahead and put our caliper bracket on the axle now. Once again we're reusing the manufacturer's hardware, running our bolt through the axle, then through our caliper bracket, andsecuring with the locknut. Next, we'll need to install our new hub rotor assembly.
We'll be reusing the inner and outer bearing, washer, and castle nut from the hub drum assembly. Let's go ahead and start removing these items from our hub drum assembly. The castle nut we removed earlier, we'll go ahead and clean it up and set it aside. We'll repeat the same process with the washer that sits between the castle nut and the outer bearing. The outer bearing will be free, as it's only held in by the castle nut, so we can go ahead and take that out, clean it up also. To clean it up, we're just going to be removing some of the excess old grease.
For the inner bearing we'll have to flip the hub drum assembly over, and remove the grease seal. The grease seal will hold the inner bearing in to the brace on the hub drum assembly, and our hub rotor assembly. Once we have the inner bearing removed, we'll go ahead and clean it up, and then we're going to pack our bearings before we install them. To pack them we'll use a grease packing kit, drop the bearing in position and squish it with the cone, which will shove new grease up through the bearing, pushing out the old grease. We'll go ahead and take our packed bearing and put it on the inside of our hub rotor assembly, and then install the grease seal. We'll be using a seal driver assembly; however, a piece of flat wood like a two by four, that's large enough to cover the entire seal surface, will work in a pinch.
With our seal installed, we go ahead and put our new hub rotor assembly up onto the axle. We'll slide it back and seatit into place. Next, we'll go ahead and take our outer bearing and repack it also, the same way we did the inner bearing. Once it's been packed, we'll go ahead and put it over the axle, into the hub rotor assembly, and seat it intoposition. Then we'll follow with our washer and castle nut. We'll tighten the castle nut down to seat the bearings, and then back it off slightly, as you do not want extreme, constant pressure at all times for this style bearing. Once we have the bearing seated and our castle nut in place, which means that it will be lined up with the predrilled holes in the axle, so that we can slide our cotter pin through the castle nut, through the predrilled holes in the axle, out the other side of the castle nut, and bend the tabs over to secure it. With that secured, we're going to go ahead and install the new dust cap. This will also be the removable grommet to grease this particular axle, as it's an easy lube axle. Next, we're ready to install the caliper; however, this application, it will be necessary to thread the brake line directly into the caliper, so that can be done easier off of boat. Setting it on a flat surface, we'll go ahead and thread the brake line directly into the caliper and tighten it down. We'll go ahead and take the caliper, set it over the rotor into position, lining up the sliders with the predrilled holes in the caliper bracket, which we've previously installed. Once it's lined up, we'll put the sliders into place and tighten them down. Next, we'll need to connect our new flexible hose to the manufacturer's steel line. In most cases we'll go ahead and cut away a portion of the steel line that the hose will make up, reflare the line, mount it with a mounting bracket, and cut it at the necessary length. However, because of previous work done to this line, the inner nut on the brake line is not in the best shape, so we're going to go ahead and just replace it with a small section of new line. The new eighth inch line on this application can be purchased at your local auto parts store. This short piece of line will work perfectly to gointo the brake tee, here mounted into the axle. We'll go ahead and thread it in, and secure it. Next, we'll take our bracket, put it over the line, and thread the line into the hose. Once we have it started, we can then go and take the bracket, put it in position on our flexible hose, and secure it to the axle with our self-tapping screw. Once secured, we'll go ahead and put the mounting clip in place, which will hold our brake hose to the bracket. Once the clip is installed, we'll then go ahead and continue tightening down the line to the hose. With the driver's side done, we're going to go ahead and repeat the same process on the passenger's side. Note on the opposite side we will not have to replace the entire steel line. In these cases, we can simply cut the line as necessary to length. We'll take the nut that went into the back of the wheel cylinder previously, install it onto the line that will stay on the boat, and then redouble flare the steel line. A double flare kit can be rented or borrowed from your local auto parts store. Follow the procedures of the double flaring kit. Once the line's been double flared, we'll go ahead and repeat the same procedure of installing the bracket onto the line, threading the line into the hose, and then securing the bracket to the axle. Then tighten down the line to the hose. Secure the bracket clip that will hold the hose in place. With all our components installed, we'll need to bleed the air out of the braking system. To do this, we'll open up the bleeder on the brake caliper and remove the cap from the master cylinder, and we'll also make sure we have a full master cylinder. After a bit of time, the air will self-bleed out of the bleeder, assisting in getting the air out of our system. After you gravity bleed it, it's recommended to do a vacuum assist or manual power bleed. Once we've bled all the air out of the system, we're ready to hit the road. That will complete the install of the Kodiak disc brake kit, part number K2HR35D, on our boat trailer. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (13 Customer Reviews)Trailer disc brake kit includes 2 corrosion-resistant, Dacromet-plated hub-and-rotor assemblies; calipers; and mounting brackets. Assemblies fit 13" and larger wheels and axles with 4-bolt flanges.
by: dan granger12/28/2014
received my order promptly in good shape! do to the holidays I haven't been able to install the parts, I will add to this review when I complete the work. I will say the people at etrailer were very helpful in helping me determine which parts I needed for my repair. thanks! 167161
by: Mark M.11/03/2013
Product arrived in great condition no damage to packaging or contents. Easy installation about an hour for the pair. Parts are of high quality and fit is perfect. Highly recommend to anyone needing brake replacement parts, I'll be using them on my other units as needed. 106157
Brake kit was easy to install, replaced a separate hub and rotor combination. The races already installed was a plus. Price and shipping was right. 75125
easy to install did have to reclock the calipers from twelve clock to three clock.other than that i had no problems thanks for the support 173515
Product arrived on time. All items were accounted for. Making the order online was extremely convenient with an easy to use website. 238658
Excellent product and included everything I needed for the brake job. Customer service was also amazing. 149335
by: Ron T05/19/2015
These replacement hubs and calipers are great and are perfect fit for my Dexter axle spindles!! 194433
Great product, everything fit perfectly. Also great costumer service and fast delivery. Thanks 181417
by: Gary W.05/26/2016
Complete rebuild one year ago, couldn't be happier. Very pleased with the etrailer. 251993
by: Alan, Lakeland FL07/29/2012
Kodiak Dacromet Looks like good stuff! Will need time to test though 49712
by: Martin T06/04/2015
Great got it all and was as presented went on no problems 200637
All worked out fine 138592
by: Madison H07/01/2015
very good 208742
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