1. Trailer Brake Controller
  2. Tuson RV Brakes
  3. Electric
  4. Electric over Hydraulic
  5. Proportional Controller
  6. Under-Dash Box
DirecLink NE Brake Controller with ActuLink Electric Hydraulic Actuator - Proportional - Disc Brakes

DirecLink NE Brake Controller with ActuLink Electric Hydraulic Actuator - Proportional - Disc Brakes

Item # 335ACT-1600-DLNE
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Trailer Brake Controller
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335ACT-1600-DLNE - Automatic Leveling Tuson RV Brakes Trailer Brake Controller
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Get integrated trailer braking and diagnostics with the DirecLink network enhanced brake controller and ActuLink electric-over-hydraulic actuator for disc brakes. Communicates with your vehicle's computer network for optimal trailer braking. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brake controller from Tuson RV Brakes. DirecLink NE Brake Controller with ActuLink Electric Hydraulic Actuator - Proportional - Disc Brakes part number 335ACT-1600-DLNE can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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Tuson RV Brakes Trailer Brake Controller - 335ACT-1600-DLNE

  • Tuson RV Brakes
  • Electric
  • Electric over Hydraulic
  • Proportional Controller
  • Under-Dash Box
  • Up to 4 Axles
  • Automatic Leveling
  • Dash Mount
  • 360 Degrees

Get integrated trailer braking and diagnostics with the DirecLink network enhanced brake controller and ActuLink electric-over-hydraulic actuator for disc brakes. Communicates with your vehicle's computer network for optimal trailer braking.


  • DirecLink NE network enhanced brake controller sends signal from your tow vehicle to the ActuLink actuator when brakes are applied
    • Brake controller activates trailer brakes in proportion to your vehicle's speed, deceleration, and braking action
    • 7-Way trailer connector (sold separately) is needed to transmit signal from brake controller
  • DirecLink NE and ActuLink integration creates a digital, 2-way network for enhanced brake system monitoring and diagnostics
    • Automatically adjusts braking based on real-time data provided by your tow vehicle's computer network
    • 1-7/8" Color display provides trailer connection and battery status, tow vehicle battery voltage and data network integrity, OBD-II network connection, brake controller ground and power connections, brake switch voltage, low-speed brake adjustment, brake fluid level, blue wire power output, engine RPM, transmission temperature (Ford & GM vehicles using VPW/PWM network protocols), actuator temperature, and actuator power status
  • Automatic leveling ability - DirecLink module can be mounted in any orientation without affecting operation
  • Spring-loaded manual override lever on DirecLink allows you to manually apply 0-100% of your trailer's brakes


  • Application: trailers with up to 4 axles (8 brake assemblies)
    • Designed for use with electric or electric-over-hydraulic disc trailer brakes
  • Power: 12V DC
  • Actuator maximum output pressure: 1,600 psi
  • Limited 2-year warranty

ACT-1600-DLNE Tuson RV Brakes Actu Link Actuator for Disc Trailer Brakes and Direct Link NE Enhanced Brake Controller

Installation Details 335ACT-1600-DLNE Installation instructionsAlternate Instructions 335ACT-1600-DLNE Installation instructions

Video of DirecLink NE Brake Controller with ActuLink Electric Hydraulic Actuator - Proportional - Disc Brakes

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Tuson ActuLink Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes Review

Speaker 1: Today, we're gonna be taking a look at Tucson's Actual Link Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for disc brakes, part number 335ACE-1600. You can also get this as a kit with a direct link NE brake controller, using part number 335ACT-1600-DLNE.This is what our actuator is gonna look like when it's installed. You can really pick any location that you'd like to install it. We've got it installed on our camper here, inside the front compartment. It comes with mounting brackets so it can be mounted at the bottom and attach it sitting upright and also a side bracket so you can mount it to the side of something and it has to be positioned upright, with the cap at the top, no matter where you position it.This actuator is designed to work with hydraulic disc brakes systems. If you don't have those on your trailer, you can upgrade it using the components found here at etrailer.com.

Disc brake systems require a high-pressure hydraulic system. Our actuator will provide that high pressure, up to 1600 pounds, allowing it to stop our trailer more efficiently, with greater stopping power than your traditional drum systems. Another added benefit is that disc brakes have an equal amount of stopping power in reverse, unlike drum brake systems.Now, while our actuator will work with any brake controller, if you purchase our kit, you'll get a lot of additional features that you wouldn't be able to get with many other brake controllers. Some things that you'd be able to get that you wouldn't with others, it tells you the fluid level right here on the controller, whether it's okay, low or empty. You'll get the internal temperature of the sensor inside the actuator, to know if your braking system is being overworked.

You'll get voltage readouts. You also get an amperage readout and what version your software is currently at.And while with traditional brake controllers, you won't get this level of communication. And what are the most standout features of this brake controller versus others is that it's proportional without using an inertia sensor. Other brake controllers have to be monitored in certain orientations, are typically bulky and in the way. This one can be mounted anywhere, because it uses its proportional system by communicating with the vehicle through the data link connector.We'll begin our installation by mounting our actuator.

There are several brackets that come with it, to account for various different mounting locations. We mounted ours here in this compartment, so that way it's protected. You don't want to mount it anywhere where it can get hit by anything, rocked around and damaged.Once you've got your box mounted, you're going to need to run your brake lines to it. There's only one brake line that runs to the box. It goes to the back of it here.

This brake line from our actuator will go back to each of our wheels, going to the brakes and solving each of those wheels. You may need some splitters, but if you already have hydraulic brakes installed on your system, you would just need to attach this one line from your system to the actuator. If you're upgrading, you may need to run all new lines and new brake components.Next, we'll need to connect our electrical wires. Coming off of your actuator, you're going to have a total of five wires. You'll have a white wire, a brown wire, a blue wire, and two different orange wires. You'll have a small one and a large one with a fuse. The large one with a fuse is hooked to battery positive. We've also got a 30 amp circuit breaker here that we installed in line, per the instructions. It does recommend this additional circuit protection. You can pick up circuit breakers here at etrailer.com. The white wire hooks to ground. We've got it just run over here to our battery. The blue wire will hook to your brake signal coming from your seven pole connector, and the orange wire will connect to your breakaway switch cold side, so in case there's any disconnect event and the breakaway switch gets pulled, your actuator will apply the brakes, helping to keep your camper or trailer to come to a safe stop. The brown line is an optional line, depending on how your trailer or camper is set up. If you're using deep cycle batteries like the ones we have here, you won't be using the brown line, but if you have low amp hour batteries, you will need to connect this to those low amp hour batteries.This is important that you have this connected to those low amp batteries, so that way, in case of a breakaway event, it can still apply the brakes.Next, we'll need to bleed our brakes. In order to get the fluid to pump from the actuator out of the bleeder screws, you'll need to activate it. You can do this using the manual slider on your brake controller. And our direct link NE brake controller here can use a regular phone line. Extend the remote out, and this way you can do it right at each wheel.As you can see, the one that comes with it wouldn't be long enough to extend back to your wheels, but since it is just a standard phone line cable, it's an easy upgrade to allow you to be able to do it at each wheel.Now, if you don't want to use your brake controller or don't have the direct link system, you can pull the breakaway switch and that will activate your actuator, pumping the fluid from it out of your bleeder screws.We'll begin bleeding at our actuator itself. You'll find a bleeder screw on top, next to your fill cap. We'll hook a hose up to our bleeder screw and run it to a bottle here. We've already got a little bit of brake fluid in the bottom of the bottle to help prevent splashing and keep some weight in, so our bottle doesn't tip over. We'll start by taking our cap off, making sure that our system is full of brake fluid. You want to use dot three or dot four brake fluid. You don't want to mix those, so pick one or the other. It's not a bad idea to take a rag and set it around the lid when pouring into it. Catch any spills. Then we'll top up our system.Now we'll operate our actuator by either pulling the breakaway switch pin, or by using our brake controller. We're going to be using the brake controller here, using the wired remote. You now see the fluid pumping out. You want to actuate it until you don't see any air bubbles, but you also want to keep an eye on the fluid level. If the fluid level gets low, you'll want to stop your actuator, top it back up, and refill. It's important that you do that, because if you run it completely out of fluid, you're just going to introduce air back into the system, causing you to have to start all the way back over. We pumped our actuator completely clear. As you see, the line here is filled with fluid and there's no air bubbles in it. You also want to verify that when there's no air bubbles in it and you are actuating it, that you don't see any air bubbles filling up in your bottle. Just fluid filling it up.Once you've completed that, tighten your bleeder screw down and we can remove our bottle here and we'll move on to bleeding our wheels. You'll want to top your fluid up again and then we're going to bleed each of our wheels, starting from the furthest wheel from the actuator. This is typically the passenger rear. We're going to bleed it in the exact same manner. We're going to hook our hose up to the bleeder screw. We're going to crack it loose, and then we're going to operate our actuator to pump the fluid back, periodically checking to make sure that we don't run it out of fluid, and that's very important, because it's the same here. If you run the actuator out of fluid, you introduce air to the system and you have to start all over.You may or may not have to take off your wheel to access the bleeder screw. On our setup here, we don't need to take the wheel off, but we do have it removed here for video purposes, so you can see the bleeder screw. The size wrench you'll need for your brake leader screws may vary. We're using a 7/16th for ours.We just want to crack that loose. You'll then activate your cylinder, using your breakaway switch, or your brake controller, if you purchased the kit. We're gonna bleed it just like we did the front, making sure that there's no air bubbles in it and that it comes out completely solid. You'll repeat the same process on each wheel, periodically checking in between to verify that you don't run out of fluid.One of the nice things, if you've purchased the kit with both the brake controller and the actuator, since they can communicate with each other, you can get warning messages such as the one like we have here, indicating that our fluid level is low or completely empty. Once you've got all the brakes bled, before you take it on a test drive, you want to verify that it is working. So here you can see we can spin our wheel and we activate the cylinder. It stops instantly. We're now ready to hook up our trailer and take it for a drive.One other thing to note, it does state in the owner's manual that you should bleed the brakes again after 100 miles of service, after your first installation.And that completes our look at Tucson's Actual Link Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for disc brakes, part number 335ACT-1600.


Ask the Experts about this Tuson RV Brakes Trailer Brake Controller

  • Where to Mount DirecLink NE Brake Controller on Tow Vehicle to Use with ActuLink EOH Actuator
    The best location for the brake controller that comes with the DirecLink NE Brake Controller with ActuLink Electric Hydraulic Actuator # 335ACT-1600-DLNE is somewhere on the driver's side of your tow vehicle. The module has to be able to reach to the brake controller wiring on your tow vehicle but it can be mounted in any orientation. You just have to make sure that the handheld part is within reach in case you ever need to use the manual override function (in an emergency). The ActuLink...
    view full answer...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Joshua S
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Kristina F
Written by:
Kristina F
Employee Matthew E
Updated by:
Matthew E

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