Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A

Item # 14125A

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A Standard Bearings 14125A
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 14125A
  • Race 14276
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A part number 14125A can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (33)
  • Q & A (98)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 14125A

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 14276
  • Application: outer bearing for 42865, 42866, 8-219-4 and 8-231-9 hubs


14125A Replacement Bearing







Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 14125A - 14125A

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (33 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 14125A
by:

Perfection 505622


Comments

No issues at all . System work great and I like the conversion . Theses where actually the first set I installed here at my shop and have since done 3 more and soon to do another . I will continue to shop and purchase with etrailer

William - 05/07/2019

54956

- 14125A
by:

Great product. 423517



- 14125A
by:

fits my 1999 Kaufman 3 car wedge trailer with Dexter 12"x2" brakes 6k 7k lb axles 8 lug wheels 226698



- 14125A
by:

fast service, much cheaper than local source, parts look good. 101939



- 14125A
by:

Service was great and helpful 714533



- 14125A
by:

Great price quick ship. Exact fit! 704482



- 14125A
by:

what I received was great as always. 672666



- 14125A
by:

Great product, exact match to the original bearing. 671798



- 14125A
by:

Good quality bearing with no play to speak of. Replaced a frozen bearing on a trailer. Fit the race as it should. 656153



- 14125A
by:

Looks great will see how it preforms. 600248



- 14125A
by:

Good kit brake ! kit Easy to install, I like. ?? 584893



- 14125A
by:

Perfect service all the way around peri od. 574677



- 14125A
by:

Product was fairly priced for what it was - a Chinese bearing. My only issue was the long delivery time. I had to go local and buy another one since I couldn't wait any longer. 543428



- 14125A
by:

First one received damaged but etrailer sent me another one with no issues. Great customer service and pricing. 468850



- 14125A
by:

Fit great just what I needed 445953



- 14125A
by:

Stacey set me up with the parts I needed. Iwas happy with the prices and quick shipping.Iwould buy from them again. 414217



- 14125A
by:

Stacey was a great help. Order was shipped fast.I would order from them again. 414215



- 14125A
by:

4 NEW DRUMS 12 -2 INCH 8 LUGS. FOR MY TRAILER THEY ARE OUT OF ROUND FROM DAY ONE . IF I USED TRAILER I WILL GET THEM CUT.{ U HAVE GOOD PRICE.} BEARING OK. 408356



- 14125A
by:

very satisfied 406681



- 14125A
by:

No complaint here. I have been very pleased with the performance of these bearings and races. They have been in place for several thousand miles with positive results to date. 401906



- 14125A
by:

received as ordered 397196



- 14125A
by:

Just what i ordered 369419



- 14125A
by:

Everything is cool…thanks for checking in 365718



- 14125A
by:

Products came on time and were exactly as described. Great service and great quality. Willdo business with again. 355282



- 14125A
by:

Excellent service and quick shipping. I will be ordering all my trailer equipment from them. 308724



- 14125A
by:

Exactly what I needed. Youtube showed me how to take out the old and put in the new bearings and races. They fit perfectly. The part no. was hard to research, but I was pretty sure what I ordered was the right set. I confirmed the part numbers when I beat the races out of the hub. The part number was embossed on the inside of the race and they matched the ones I ordered. I got them via ground delivery much sooner than they said. I received them in about three days and it only took an afternood to install them and new brakes. Can't beat the satisfaction of doing something yourself and saving hundreds of dollars in the process. 302822



- 14125A
by:

Needed to replace for EHB disc brake c onversion 260050



- 14125A
by:

Great products 235807



- 14125A
by:

Great price with FAST shipping, what more could you ask for! 202903



- 14125A
by:

They look to be a quality product. I would have liked the bearings and races packaged so they could be stored with out damage or a chance of rusting. Two of these sets are spares so I don't have to sideline a trailer for an extended period. 176433



- 14125A
by:

Product shipped very quickly. Product matched description. I'm very happy with my shopping experience with etrailer. 158195



- 14125A
by:

These bearings are being used in a Wind Turbine YAW and mount build. Etrailer having a full spec sheet makes this possible and the quality is a degree above the choices I had locally. 84277



- 14125A
by:

good product 13475


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


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  • For your Dexter 7k axles the Kodiak Kit part # K2HR712D would fit and work well. Your EZ lube grease caps from your current hubs will fit the hub/rotors and for bearings you would need # 25580 and # 14125A and then for the seal you would want the part # RG06-070.
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit That Fits 2018 Arctic Fox 295T with 7,000 lb Axles
  • The Kodiak 7k disc brake kit part # K2HR712D that you referenced does fit your 2018 arctic fox 295T that has 7k axles. Sounds like you already have the bearings needed of # 25580 and # 14125A but you will also need a new seal # RG06-070 for each hub. This kit is Dacromet coated as well which means it will fight corrosion. The next big piece of the puzzle will be an actuator. For that the best option is the HydraStar part # HBA16 as it's our most reliable and fastest acting option. For...
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  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
  • The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
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  • Parts Recommendation for Converting to Electric/Hydraulic Disc Brakes on 2017 Montana 3160RL
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  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
  • Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
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  • The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712D should work great for your 2010 Forest River Cedar Creek Silverback 5th wheel camper. Since this kit is rated for your 7K axles there isn't any concern with having the smaller 1/2" lugs. Most wheels are compatible with both size studs as well. I honestly haven't heard of just a 14125 bearing before so I'd imagine that whoever manufactured your bearing made it to fit the specs for the # 14125A bearing. All you need to do to verify this is measure the...
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  • Converting Standard 7K Grease Hubs to Oil Bath Hubs
  • Initially what you need to do is clean out all of the grease in your hub, on/in the bearings, and on the spindle. Once that is done you simply swap out the grease seal for the oil seal included in the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT (which has a 2.25" ID and 3.376" OD) and reinstall everything. You do need to make sure that the ID of the oil seal matches up with your current system so that it keeps your oil from leaking. If you are needing to replace the bearings and seals as...
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  • Recommendation For Bearing/Races/Seals Replacement Kit For 7,000-lb Lippert EZ-Lube Axles
  • I contacted Lippert to confirm bearing sizes and it sounds like your 7,000-lbs axles have an outer bearing like Item # 14125A and an inner bearing like Item # 25580 and a 10-36 seal. Based on this information, I recommend the replacement Bearing Kit, Item # BK3-200, which includes bearings, races, grease seals, and cotter pin. For hub grease caps, I recommend the Redline Trailer Hub grease Cap for E-Z Lube, Item # 21-43-1. The dust caps are sold separately so if you need them I recommend...
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  • Recommended Hub and Drum Assemblies and Brakes for 7,000 Pound Triple Axle Trailer
  • To determine exactly which hubs you need you'll need to find your bearing numbers. Most likely you have # 25580 and # 14125A but verify to be sure. If these are correct you'll next want to find the diameter of your wheel studs and if you have E-Z Lube axles. If the studs are 9/16 inch use # AKHD-865-7-1-EZ-K for E-Z Lube axles and # AKHD-865-7-1-K for standard axles. For 1/2 inch studs instead use # AKHD-865-7-2-EZ-K for E-Z Lube or # AKHD-865-7-2-K for standard axles. Then...
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Trailer with Dexter 7,000 lb Axles
  • For your trailer that has Dexter 7,000 lb capacity axles the Kodiak Disc Brake kit I recommend is the part # K2HR712D. You'll need the seal part # RG06-070 and the bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A and you'll be set. I recommend this kit because all of the components are Dacromet coated which means they'll do an excellent job resisting corrosion. Then for the actuator kit you'd want the HydraStar setup part # HBA16-252-82. This comes with the needed brake lines and breakaway kit to...
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  • Bearings and Seal Needed for Lippert 8K Axle
  • From what I could find online it looks like the Lippert 8K axles use inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # 02475, and a grease seal that has an inner diameter of 2.250". If you are using a Kodiak disc brake kit like part # K2HR712D for 7K axles then it would make sense that this wouldn't fit correctly as this kit comes with an outer bearing # 14125A which is about 0.040" larger as you have found. If you have bearings for the 8K axle but you are using 7K rotors then all you need to do...
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  • Replacement Kodiak 13" Hub and Rotor with 8 on 6-1/2" Bolt Pattern
  • The part 133-7-8-DAC you referenced is a Kodiak 13" hub and rotor with a 8 on 6-1/2" bolt pattern, 1/2" lug studs, and a dacromet finish. I do have options that will work for you but we do not have this exact replacement. Instead, we have the raw part # KHR13712 and e-coat part # KHR13712E versions of this hub/rotor. Please note that none of the above hub/rotors come with the bearings or seal. To replace them you will also want to use the following: Inner Bearing - part # 25580 Outer...
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  • Can a 14125A Trailer Wheel Bearing Replace a 15123 Bearing
  • No, the # 14125A bearing has different applications than a # 15123 bearing. The outer diameters are different. Both are readily available bearings. If you have a 15123 bearing then you would need that same bearing as a replacement. If you can provide the inner and outer bearing numbers on your existing hubs, I can make some recommendations for replacement parts. I have included a video on bearings for you.
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  • Interchangeability of # LM67048 and # 14125A Wheel Bearings
  • Although both the # LM67048 and the # 14125A bearings might have the same inner diameter of 1.25 inches, they aren't interchangeable. Both bearings are compatible with a different race or bearing cone. The races have a different outside diameter, so you wouldn't be able to simply swap out the race to change to the other bearing. Both bearings are also rated for a different weight capacity. The # 14125A bearing is rated for a 7000 lb axle, while the # LM67048 is rated for a 5200 or 6000...
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  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Car Hauler with Dexter 7,000 lb Axles
  • For Dexter 7k axles we have the Kodiak XL Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR712D which is a confirmed fit and would work well. You will need to provide the bearings though which are part numbers # 25580 and # 14125A. For a grease seal you would need part # RG06-070.
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  • Locating Replacement Hubs for 5,200 Pound Axle
  • We actually have quite a few trailer hub assemblies for a 5,200 pound axle. In addition to brand and construction, the difference between the available options have to do with the bearing sizes they use, their bolt pattern, and whether they are standard grease or oil bath units. In order to determine the correct replacement hub for your trailer, you will want to pull an existing hub and check for the bearing and grease seal numbers. These numbers should be stamped right inside the bearings...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a 5,200 Pound EZ Lube Trailer Axle
  • On your EZ Lube 5,200 pound trailer axle the inner bearing is going to be # 25580. The outer bearing is likely going to be # 14125A. With these bearings you could have one of two seal possibilities. Bearing kit # BK3-200 comes the bearings above and with a seal that has a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter. The other option is bearing kit # BK3-210. It also has the above bearings but the seal in it is 2-1/8 inches inner diameter. You can determine which one you will need by measuring either...
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  • Parts Needed to Install the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR79E
  • All of the parts you mentioned will complete a disc brake kit for a trailer, but you will need to know for certain if your current hubs have the same bearings that the # K2HR712D would take. You will need to pull the bearings of your current hubs to get the numbers that are stamped on them. If it's the same as what comes with the kit you would be good. They will need to be # 25580 and # 14125A. Most likely this would be the case since Heartland uses Dexter axles and a Dexter 7K axle uses...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Parts for a Bearing Kit for a 5,200 lb Dexter Trailer Axle
  • For your 2006 Colorado fifth-wheel trailer with 5,200 lb EZ Lube axles, there are a couple of possibilities. The best way to determine the correct parts is to disassemble a hub on one side of the trailer and get the bearing part numbers off of the bearings that are on the spindle. I put together a drawing showing where part numbers are and/or how to measure to determine the correct parts for trailer hub and drum assemblies, see link. If your hubs have a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt circle, you...
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  • Timbren Silent Ride and Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Lippert 7k Axles
  • The Timbren Silent Ride 7k system part # TSR7000T05 would be a great solution that doesn't quite break the bank like the MorRyde would. Then for a disc brake kit you'd want the part # K2HR712D which is a 7k kit that will fit your Lippert 7k axles well. You will also need the bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A for each hub and then seals too as part # RG06-070. This is a Dacromet coated setup which will fight corrosion well.
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  • Upgrading Hubs From 6 Bolt to 8 Bolt for 5,200 lb Axles
  • We have 2 different options for you to use to upgrade your 5,200 lb axles from 6 bolt to 8 bolt with 1/2 inch studs. Dexter Axle has the Trailer Hub Assembly, part # 8-231-9UC1-EZ, which is black in color and comes with the hub, inner bearing, part # 25580, outer bearing, part # 14125A, and the seal that you will be needing. This Trailer Hub Assembly also comes in a Galvanized Hub, part # 8-231-50UC1-EZ. Similar options that include the drums, in case you have brakes on your trailer,...
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  • Determining Correct Replacement Bearings and Seals for 6,000 Pound Axles
  • Since the current hubs on your trailer use the # 25580 inner bearing, there are a few possible options for the exact outer bearing replacement. Most likely, the outer bearing you need will be # 14125A, # 15123, or # LM67048. These all feature the same 1.250 inch inner diameter, meaning they will all fit the spindle on your trailer. However, they each will have a slightly different outer diameter, which is what needs to match up with your current hubs. Since you cannot read the number...
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  • Trailer Axles and Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Trailer Brakes that Offer Best Ride for 14K Trailer
  • For a 7,000 pound trailer axle I recommend a Timbren system, # TASR7KS01. This is actually an axle-less system with its own built in suspension. Since there is no axle beam connecting one side to the other it creates independent suspension at all the wheels. For 2 axles you would need 2 kits. For compatible disc brakes I recommend Kodiak dacromet disc brake kit # K2HRCM1337-9DAC. This kit is for 1 axle so to put brakes on both axles you would need 2 kits. For as much weight as you are...
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  • Disc Brake Recommendation for 2011 Carriage Cameo Fifth wheel 36FWS
  • The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, # K2HR712, will fit 7,000 pound Dexter trailer axles. It is also designed to fit 16 inch and larger wheels with an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern. You can check your existing bearing numbers to determine if this kit or another will fit your axle. If you have # 25580 inner bearings and # 14125A inner bearings, 16 inch or larger wheels with an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern, this kit will work. The bearings and seals for this kit are sold separately, but the races are...
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  • Replacement Hub and Brake Assemblies for Lippert 7k Axle
  • The Dexter E-Z Lube Hub and Drum assembly that would work for your Lippert axles with the bearing and seal numbers you provided is part # 42866UC3-EZ. This fits 5200 lb to 7000 lb axles that require a 2-1/4 inch ID grease seal. The drum dimensions for this measure 12 inches diameter by 2 inches wide. I would recommend new drums like this unless yours happen to be in great condition still. We had a customer give us the bearing numbers of their Lippert 7k hub and they were # 14125A and...
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  • Identifying the Bearings and Seals on a Lippert Trailer Axle
  • I checked with Lippert and could not find any information on NV304664. Do you know the capacity of the axle? If it is a 7,000 pound axle then the likely inner bearing is # 25580 and the outer bearing is # 14125A. If a 2-1/4 inch seal diameter is needed it is a 10-36 seal, # RG06-070. Or it could also be a 2-1/8 inch diameter seal # RG06-090. If it is a 3,500 pound axle it likely uses inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 and a 10-19 seal # RG06-050. To determine which...
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  • What is Better, TruRyde or Timken Trailer Bearings
  • Not all bearings are created equal, but you would be hard-pressed to find one that is vastly superior than another. Whether it is TruRyde, Timken, or some other brand, if the bearings are properly maintained, used in the correct hub, and within the capacity of the trailer they will last a long time. They do not really have a rating in miles or time. You will need to inspect them for time to time, perhaps when yo uare inspecting other parts like brakes or suspension components. I have...
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  • Identifying Replacement Wheel Bearings for Unknown Hubs on Boat Trailer
  • The easiest way to identify the needed replacement bearing kit is to obtain the reference numbers off the existing bearings. Your best bet would be to clean the existing bearings and closely examine them for the reference numbers. Given the inside diameter you provided, the bearings could be a # LM67048, # 15123 or # 14125A, all of which have a 1.25 inch inside diameter. All three bearings are listed as outer bearings for certain hubs, none of the hubs we offer would use these as both...
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Info for this part was:

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