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Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Item # XLPROLUBE2440KIT
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Our Price: $75.17
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 1.69 lbs
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Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Kodiak. Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles part number XLPROLUBE2440KIT can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-833-496-1390 for expert service.
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Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - XLPROLUBE2440KIT

  • Caps
  • Oil Cap
  • 2.440 Inch
  • Kodiak

Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil.


Features:

  • Converts trailer from grease to oil with your existing hubs
  • Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles
  • Includes 2 oil caps, 2 seals, and (1) 8-oz bottle of oil
  • Seal dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 2.25"
    • Outer diameter: 3.376"


XLPROLUBE2440-K Kodiak XL ProLube Kit

Replaces XLPROLUBE2440KITIT





Video of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles - XLPROLUBE2440KIT

Average Customer Rating:  4.3 out of 5 stars   (111 Customer Reviews)

Kit converts existing trailer hubs from grease to oil. Fits 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb axles. Includes oil caps, seals, and oil.

by:

Kit was great, I ended up using different seals, my choice. Hubs installed well, seem to be doing what they are designed to do. I am happy with this purchase.




by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need.




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I’ll give it two stars and the benefit of the doubt since I can’t guarantee that the assembly was perfect on my end. It’s a great concept, however the pressure required to install the two part seals in the hubs almost guarantee some form of damage to the plastic portion of the seal back. My recommendation for anyone trying this product would be to use a press with a flat surface to push the seal in evenly as attempting to use a board or even an automotive seal tool is pointless.

Again, I liked the concept but out of the four I initially installed and two subsequent seals, I have yet to have one last more than a trip locally without beginning to seep.




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Quality built product for sure!




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The tolerances are perfect and installation went seamlessly. Fast shipping a plus +++++




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Exactly what i ordered shipped promply and shipping price ws minimal. Web site easy to use. Shop at etrailer anytime i can. Free shipping on most of my larger purchases which I love. Highly recommend etrailer.




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I have not used them yet, but the quality of the kit is very good!




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When these are installed into the hub you can NOT PASS THE OUTER BEARING THROUGH THE ALUMINUM HOUSING ! THATS JUST MESSED UP !




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Haven’t installed yet but kit is excellent quality




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Product delivered on time and included everything I ordered. Great service!




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Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I have used these hubs a dozen times and I think they’re the greatest thing since sliced bread. The lubrication of the bearings with a liquid is far superior then any grease I’ve ever seen. And the ability to check at a glance and know your bearings are protected and you can change the lube without making a mess there just plane great


Comments
Your product is still working like the day it was installed it gets used two or three times a week and usually nothing local all long run’s no leak’s at seals or cap’s and whatever the composition of the lube I haven’t had to add to the hub there great looking forward to a set of four for my toy trailer!!!
Bruce - 07/12/2022


by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Easy to install and it's nice to be able to see the lube level through the end cap.




by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Needed these caps quick as my originals had cracked. Shipping over night is always expensive but etrailer came through and got me my parts and saved the fishing trip




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Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Don't know if it was these being too big or your hubs being to small. Extremely tight fit. Did get them halfway seated and had a tough time from there. Most likely will have to destroy them when I have to remove them




by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


As always excellent service quick shipp ing




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Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I installed the oil bath system per the instructions, it was easy to install, the tips I would give anyone is to take your time when installing the rear seal. Its very tight, so take your time and use a solid round object and make sure it goes on perfectly straight. It was all straight forward as far as installation, what I found different was after installation. I noticed that instead of the seal rotating over the axel, the seal stays affixed to the axel, and the outer race, between hub and seal is what moves. I've never seen this before. So I called etrailer and spoke to customer service. They checked and said because this is an oil bath system its normal for the seal to stay stationary and the movement is between hub and seal. I spent a lot of time cleaning the axel were the seal normally rides. However it seams you don't have to. I hope they are right. I'm going to follow-up after I haul some heavy loads and let you know how it goes.
Thanks


Comments
After a year I am very happy with the Kodiak XL pro lube kit. I’ve made three 1200 miles trips and other shorter trips with no problems at all. The one issue I had, that turned out to be a self inflicted installation problem my fault was that I didn’t bend the cotter pin back far enough. The outer cover is a high quality aluminum, when the wheel turns the outer cover turns and the cotter pin stays stationary. What happened was the cotter pin rubbed on the inside of the aluminum outer cover. So when I checked the oil after hauling a heavy load I saw what I thought was metal flakes in the oil. I thought the bearings where shedding chrome flakes. But after calling Kodiak tech support and talking to their support team, they said check the oil with a magnet, if the flakes are magnetic it could be the bearing, but if it’s not it’s probably the cotter pin rubbing the inside of the outer cover. And that’s what it was. All I did was jack the opposite side of the trailer and drained and flushed the oil out the service cap, made sure the cotter pin what pushed all the way in, and reserviced with oil. It has been flawless ever since. I highly recommend this conversion to a wet bearing.
Glenn J - 05/23/2018


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Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


I purchased 4 of these to do all my bearing on the trailer when they went bad. I have had to us three of them on the same wheel, as it kepts leaking after a couple of months. It is always around the rubber seal in the front of the hub. None of my original hubs have gone bad in that time frame. I need to find a different brand before I get stranded somewhere I can't fix it.


Comments
According to Kodiak, Its more likely that the silver oil bath body is faulty than 3 different caps.
-- Etrailer Expert Mike L - 04/23/2019


by:

Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


The ones I bought a year ago are good, one of the two I bought last month is already leaking.


Comments
Thank you for reaching out! Something worth checking is making sure the o ring is properly seated as that can cause a leak if its not sitting where it needs to be.
-- Etrailer Expert Brooke M - 04/29/2022


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Review from a similar XL ProLube in Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


Put these on our 5th wheel travel trailer several years ago. Easy to install and never have to repack wheel bearings. Just check the oil level and go. Only issue we've had was when the tire people cracked the plastic cap while installing new tires. I will definitely put these on future trailers.



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See what our Experts say about this Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Threaded Cap Thread Dimensions For Kodiak XL ProLube Kit 2.440 # XLPROLUBE2440KIT
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT has a cap with the threads being 2-3/8" diameter and 12 threads per inch. We do carry the Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE2440 and Replacement Center Plug # XLPROLUBE-PLUG separately from the main kit. They do not sell the caps individually.
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  • Which Oil Bath Cap Do I Need on a 2003 EZ Loader Trailer
    In order to determine the correct oil bath cap you'll need to measure your hub bore or find the weight capacity of your axle. If you have a 3500 lbs. axle or a 1.98 inch hub bore you will want part # XLPROLUBE1980 or # XLPROLUBE1980KIT for a kit that includes caps, seals, and oil. For 5200 or 6000 lbs. axles that have a hub bore of 2.440 inches you will need # XLPROLUBE2440 or # XLPROLUBE2440KIT for the kit.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Oil Bath Cap
    To figure out the correct oil bath cap, you will need to know your axle's capacity or size of your hub bore. For a 3,500 lb hub or 1.98" hub bore you would use Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE1980, or for the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. If your axle had a capacity of 5,200 lbs or 6,000 lbs, or 2.44" hub bore you would want Kodiak XL ProLube Oil Bath Hub Body and Cap # XLPROLUBE2440 or if you wanted the kit you would use # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. I've added links...
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  • How Often Should Oil in Trailer Oil Bath Hubs be Changed
    The common recommendation with oil bath hubs is to not mess with them at all as long as they aren't leaking or the oil isn't milky looking. Some say to change every two years but most will say that as long as everything looks good just leave it be. Also 50 weight gear oil is recommended. I am sure there is an Amsoil product for that.
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  • Dexter D60 Axle Compatibility with the Kodiak ProLube Oil Kit
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT isn't a direct fit for your Dexter axle because the oil seal is a slightly different size. The Dexter 6000 lb axle uses a seal with inner diameter measuring 2.125 instead of the 2.25 seal that comes in that kit. We don't have an oil kit that is compatible with that size seal.
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  • Could Kodiak XL ProLube Kit XLPROLUBE2440KIT Fit 7,000 lb Dexter D70 Hub
    If the bore on your hub matches what the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT is designed to fit at 2.44 inches this kit would work well in the hub. When picking out replacement caps or in this case using this kit to convert to oil bath all that really matters is matching the seal and hub bore dimensions. The seal dimensions are 2.25 inch inner and 3.376 inch outer.
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  • Does Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT Come with Everything Needed to Convert to Oil Bath
    Is there a reason you want to convert to oil bath? I personally don't like to recommend oil bath over grease as with grease if you have a seal issue you'll be able to get home to fixe it as the grease isn't going to just all pour out whereas with oil if the seal goes out you lose all lubrication and the hub is damaged within a few miles. That said all you need is the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT as it comes with everything needed. The seal...
    view full answer...
  • Do Bearings Still Need to be Greased Before Installing Oil Bath Kit?
    No you should not grease your bearings before installing the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT to convert your hubs from grease to oil. This kit fits 5,200 lb and 6,000 lb axles and comes with 2 oil caps, 2 seals and an 8 oz. bottle of oil.
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  • Can Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Work on Dexter EZ Lube Axle
    As long as your existing hub features a 2.440 hub bore diameter you can indeed use the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT that you referenced on your EZ Lube Axle. As you mentioned, you may need to remove the zerk fitting to allow for clearance with the cap but that would be the only reason it might not fit right out of the box. This kit includes 2 seals that have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches so you will also want to verify that this matches...
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  • Can Dexter 5,200 lb Trailer Hub be Converted to Oil Bath
    To convert a 5,200 lb Dexter hub to be oil bath all you really need is the kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. This comes with the correct cap and seal as well as the oil needed to make the conversion.
    view full answer...
  • How To Convert from Grease to Oil Bath Hubs
    In order to switch from grease to oil you'll need to know some detailed information about the trailer such as the grease seal diameter and hub bore diameter. That said, these measurements will need to be taken with a caliper down to the nearest thousandth of an inch. The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT for example is commonly used on 5,200 lb - 6,000 lb axles. It has a 2.250" oil seal and a 2.440" oil cap.
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  • Can 7k Dexter Hubs be Converted to Oil Bath
    We have the Oil Bath Conversion kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT which fits 7k Dexter hubs like you have.
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  • Can Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Work on 7,000 lb. Idler Hubs
    The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT will work with your 7,000 lb. idler hubs as long as your existing hub features a 2.440 hub bore diameter. This kit includes 2 seals that have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches so you will also want to verify that this matches your existing grease seals.
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  • How do I Change My Ez-Lube Hubs to Oil Bath Hubs on My 7k Axles?
    The first thing you need to do is clean out all of the grease from the bearings, the hub, and the spindle on your 7k axles. Once that is complete, you simply swap out the grease seal for the oil seal included with the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. This particular kit has an inner diameter of 2.25" and an outer diameter of 3.376". I recommend confirming your inner diameter of your grease seal to make sure you have the correct kit for the change....
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  • How To Determine What Oil Bath Conversion Kit Is Needed For A 2019 Keystone Passport Ground Touring
    For your 2019 Keystone Passport Grand Touring Travel Trailer with 4,400lb axles, we have the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT which may work for you, however to determine the correct kit you'll need to just match the seal and the caps. The caps in this kit measure 2.440", and the seal has an inner diameter of 2.25", and an outer diameter of 3.376".
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  • How to Change Grease Setup to Oil Setup for LoadRite Axle 6009.106
    To convert your grease setup on your Tie-Down axle to an oil setup you will essentially just replace the grease seals and caps with the oil seals and caps that come with the kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT you referenced. Aside from that the only other thing you need to do is completely clean out all of the grease where these will be installed. The bearings, spindle, and inside of the hub need to be grease free because sometimes the grease will react with the oil and actually damage your setup. Please...
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  • Can a Dexter Hub be Swapped from Grease to Oil Bath?
    As long as you have the correct seals and caps, you can definitely switch from grease to oil. To swap the Dexter # 42656 over, you will need the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for for 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. However, it does sound like you already have the oil bath style seal and cap, so you should be good to go.
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  • Options For Replacing A Tie Down Turbo Lube 48394 Clear Oil Bath Cap
    Though we do have the Bearing Buddy # BB2441T-SS that is a direct replacement for Tie Down's Turbo Lube oil baths, this will require you changing over to grease instead of oil. With that said, we do also have the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT (or # XLPROLUBE2440 as a single cap) that will measure the same, but the end that sits in the hub is not threaded. To get this to fit, you would either need to have the ends of the caps threaded, or have the threads turned down on your...
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  • Best Trailer Hub Lubrication For Highway Driving
    The LubriMatic LMX Industrial Strength Grease # L11390 is our best grease for highway driving. It is formulated to withstand extreme pressure even under extreme heat. The grease fuses itself to the bearings and will not break down if exposed to water. The best option is upgrading to an oil bath hub as it will extend the life of your bearings. We have kits like the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit for 3500-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE1980KIT or 5,200-lb to 6,000-lb Axles # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. If you can tell...
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  • Parts Needed to Convert Dexter 4,400 lb Grease Hubs to Oil Bath
    We have the kit part # XLPROLUBE2440KIT which comes with the oil bath style caps that will fit your hub and oil, but for seals you'd have to use the part # RG06-050 as the seals of that kit are too large.
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  • Will Kodiak XL ProLube Kit Fit Kodiak Trailer Hub KH42655S
    Yes, the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT will fit Kodiak Trailer Hub # KH42655S. I have linked videos of both products for you. The XL ProLube kit is more than just seals. It is meant to convert the hub to and oil-bath style so you would not grease the bearings. Also you would not use a dust cap with this set up. The proper caps have to be see-through with a plug in them to check/add oil. They are also included with the ProLube kit.
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  • Does Kodiak XLPROLUBE2440KIT Fit Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712 to Convert to Oil-Bath
    I apologize for any confusion but the # XLPROLUBE2440KIT would be exactly what you would need to convert the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712 to oil-bath as that's what it's designed to do. The included caps have a drive-in section that is threaded on the other end so that it can fit the hub and then also seal like oil-bath hubs.
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  • Parts Needed To Convert Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2HR712D To Oil Bath
    We have just what you are looking for. To convert your 7000lb Dexter axle with the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712D from grease to oil bath you will need the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT. This includes in the seals to replace your current grease seals, new caps, and the oil. You will need to make sure you completely remove all of the grease from your spindle to make sure it does not contaminate the oil. I included a video of the # XLPROLUBE2440KIT for you to take a look at.
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  • Converting Standard 7K Grease Hubs to Oil Bath Hubs
    Initially what you need to do is clean out all of the grease in your hub, on/in the bearings, and on the spindle. Once that is done you simply swap out the grease seal for the oil seal included in the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT (which has a 2.25" ID and 3.376" OD) and reinstall everything. You do need to make sure that the ID of the oil seal matches up with your current system so that it keeps your oil from leaking. If you are needing to replace the bearings and seals as...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
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Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Employee Laura H
Written by:
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Employee Chris R
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