Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98" Inner Diameter - 1 Pair

Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98" Inner Diameter - 1 Pair

Item # KREB1980AC

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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KREB1980AC - 1.98 Inch Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Easy-to-install bearing protectors form a positive hub seal to keep contaminants out and grease in. One-piece housing and O-ring seals guarantee that grease will not leak. Fit hubs with 1.980" inner diameter. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Kodiak. Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98" Inner Diameter - 1 Pair part number KREB1980AC can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (74)
  • Q & A (23)
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Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - KREB1980AC

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch
  • Kodiak

Easy-to-install bearing protectors form a positive hub seal to keep contaminants out and grease in. One-piece housing and O-ring seals guarantee that grease will not leak. Fit hubs with 1.980" inner diameter.


Features:

  • Replace drive-in grease caps on trailer hub or drum
    • Teeth provide a secure hold in hub
  • Prevent contamination, giving your wheel bearings longer life
  • Maintain constant positive pressure with a spring-loaded piston, even when bearing is submerged in water
    • Keep out dirt and water, even when submerged
      • Not recommended for saltwater application use
    • Guaranteed not to leak grease
  • Indicate status with easy-to-see "red eye"
    • When red washer is flat against bearing housing, grease needs to be added
    • When orange O-ring is visible, bearing is full
    • If the red washer continually signals empty, seal failure is likely
  • 1-Piece housing
    • Chrome plated cast aluminum construction
  • Made in theUSA


Specs:

  • Application: hubs with 1.980" inner diameter
    • Most axles rated at 2,000 lbs - 3,500 lbs
  • Diameter: 1.980"
  • Limited lifetime warranty


The special O-ring indicator lets you know when to add grease and when to stop adding grease to prevent overfilling. An orange O-ring is visible when the Red Eye is full. The red washer will be flat against the housing when it is time to add grease. If you notice that the red washer remains close to the Red Eye's housing - indicating the need for grease - on a regular basis, the inner seal may be failing.



REB1980AC Kodiak Red Eye - 1.980" Hubs







Video of Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98" Inner Diameter - 1 Pair


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98" Inner Diameter - 1 Pair - KREB1980AC

Average Customer Rating:  4.4 out of 5 stars   (74 Customer Reviews)

Easy-to-install bearing protectors form a positive hub seal to keep contaminants out and grease in. One-piece housing and O-ring seals guarantee that grease will not leak. Fit hubs with 1.980" inner diameter.

- KREB1980AC
by:

These bearing protectors work great. This is my second set. Really do a great job of keeping most of the water out of the bearings. 150826



- KREB1980AC
by:

These Bearing Protectors arrived fast and in excellent condition. Easy to install, and are of really good quality. In the past I have used Bearing Buddy's and have always had to use the Bearing Bra with them. Not having the additional expense and/or mess if I don’t use the Bra's, I decided to try these. Time will tell, but if they don't work as advertised I still have a new set of Bra's left over and still saved money over Bearing Buddy's 95503


Comments

I wish to retract my comments earlier. On the very first trip to the marina with these bearing protectors, One came off! Dont waste your money, get Bearing Buddys and save the hassel.

-- comment by: Wilbur A - 09/22/2013

2098

I wanted to follow up with you to see if you figured out why the Red Eye fell out. I measured a unit from our stock and it came in at 1.986 inches so it should fit fine in a 1.980 hub bore, when driven in all the way.

-- Patrick B - 10/2/2013

Comments

When I notified Kodiak of the problem with one of their bering protectors, they sent me a new pair. To date I have had no problem with them and they work quite well. I love the fact that grease stay in them and not on my whels. I commend Kodiak for their customer service. I didnt ask for a replacement, they did so on their own!

W A - 08/16/2014

6281

- KREB1980AC
by:

The bearing protectors arrived from etrailer in a good un damaged box and the service from etrailer was very good but the problem is with the red eye protectors themselves they were defective the chrome plating on them is bubbled and flicking off I have call one of your customer service people and sent a picture of the protectors and am still waiting for a response back!!! 387683



- KREB1980AC
by:

It was a simple demand really, to create a worry free environment for the trailer drive train. Researching the possibilities I found a few products that would work. Bearing buddies and a few china knock offs, and then the Kodiak Reds. First and foremost, all but the Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors allowed grease to escape the unit to be thrown all over the side of your vehicle(s). You don't need a boot to protect your vehicles from this, thus saving you at least $5 a pair. This product, which was assembled in the USA, will outlast the trailer. Not bad for a product which was less expensive than the heavily marketed competition. 61301



- KREB1980AC
by:

The best on the market 714749



- KREB1980AC
by:

I like the overall idea and design of these bearing buddies which help you how much grease you have in your bearings, however because they are weighted so heavy on the outside end, the rotation of my boat trailers wheels worked them off. I lost one on my first trip to the lake! Needs to be re-engineered. Had to buy different bearing buddies that were a lighter design that would stay one, which worked. 702819



- KREB1980AC
by:

One fell off after about twenty miles. Had to return home and put an old set of spring loaded caps on. If you buy perhaps using some adhesive to hold them on would help? My original redeyes never popped out, the grease zerts stripped out. I willprobably redo those. 673426



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have used this product before and like it very much. The only problem i had is that one came off and i lost it somewhere down the road. I noticed that these ones fit a lot tighter and maybe i won't have that problem again. I am pleased with e-trailer's quickness in getting me my product to me. 672790



- KREB1980AC
by:

Good product no problems! 616216



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have bought products from e trailer for years...fast reliable service..thanks Dan Hallstrom 607598



- KREB1980AC
by:

The first set I put on flew off the hub and they were tight so I bought some more they stead on I don't know what went wrong ? first set poor second set Excellent 607533



- KREB1980AC
by:

The red eye race seals were everything I wanted and then some. Thank you for the follow up ( one year later) how fast time flies. Sincerely, Glen 584381



- KREB1980AC
by:

Worked well 584351



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have been using these bearing lubers for yrs. and they work great. I have never had hot bearings or lost a bearing since I've used em. I have three trailers and put these on every one of them. 577512



- KREB1980AC
by:

Website was very helpful in selecting what I needed. Order process was simple and delivery was actually early! Very satisfied, will make etrailer my normal for trailer needs. 573558



- KREB1980AC
by:

If all businesses cared about their Customers as etrailer does this would be a better world. 564911



- KREB1980AC
by:

These fit perfectly, just tapped them in with a block of wood, pumped in the grease and rolled away. I really like that you can tell if you need more grease and it keeps the bearings greased continuously. I'll probably order some for the boat trailer when I have measured the exact diameter. 525333



- KREB1980AC
by:

Great product. Very easy to install. Filled it with grease and I'm on the road again. 516364



- KREB1980AC
by:

Easy install 476765



- KREB1980AC
by:

i had purchased this item already but did not put one bearing on securely and so it came off in my travels. Had to buy set of 2 but only needed one but will nice to have bearing on hand. I liked the fact you can easily put grease on wheel with no extra effort. 437401



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have used these Red Eye Bearing Protectors for years on other trailers. They do NOT allow grease to sling out like other brands of similar products. 419832



- KREB1980AC
by:

umm.. these things suck. Stick with the buddys. Leaked grease everywhere first trip. 414681



- KREB1980AC
by:

finally got a chance to install fits great thanks. 412748


Comments

Holding up great.

tony h - 07/31/2018

41705

- KREB1980AC
by:

just what I wanted and great shipping. Had new bearing buddies but they leak grease all over my wheels on boat trailer. Had these before and will keep using them from now on/ 404537



- KREB1980AC
by:

Work well 381823



- KREB1980AC
by:

Again, very good product, service and delivery. And delivery was a bit complicated as I was "on the road". etrailer seems to have everything we need for repairs to our travel trailer. THANKS, etrailer 381420



- KREB1980AC
by:

Haven't installed them yet but shipping was very fast-2 1/2 days to PA. Etrailer video very helpful so I don't anticipate any problems. Typical Etrailer service. 379606



- KREB1980AC
by:

Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors work great.. I have 4 on my tandem boat trailer and one began to sling grease but only one and after it was 3 years old.. Every other brand I had tried and I think I have tried them all and they all had the issue of slinging grease and making the wheel nasty.. I bought another pair and changed one out and kept the other for a spare just in case.. they are probably the best choice out there.. I have tried them all as far as I know it. 339724



- KREB1980AC
by:

Outstanding product, great price and very fast shipment. 337883



- KREB1980AC
by:

These are the best bearing protectors/covers in town. Way better than other brands. My first set lasted for 15 years. 329134



- KREB1980AC
by:

For the trailer hub fine, grease zerk came out after pumping geese in them. 327570



- KREB1980AC
by:

Nice fit, seem well made and easy to tell if they need grease or not. I used them on my Demo Kar Kaddy II and after hauling 2 cars there was no grease flung out from them. 325369



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have these installed on a Shoreline MC1200 trailer. They work great, no issues. Currently taking it from PA to CA. Nice to have the auto lubing. 317444



- KREB1980AC
by:

I like the Red Eyes. They stay on the hubs. Had trouble with bearing Buddies being thrown off. 313649



- KREB1980AC
by:

The Kodiak Red Eye grease caps have worked great. I used Bearing Buddies previously but had problems twice with the caps being thrown while I was towing. Since switching to the Red Eyes I haven't any incidents. I replace them every year when I repack the bearings. I won't consider anything else. 311829


Comments

Still working great.

Steve W - 10/29/2017

30171

- KREB1980AC
by:

Super quick shipping and great price. I will shop here again 310188



- KREB1980AC
by:

These will hopefully save my bearings from going bad every year. I will come back and review at a later time. They fit just fine, nice and tight. 302330



- KREB1980AC
by:

Delivery was as promised. Looks great fit well and so far after filling with grease seems to hold fine. Great price compared to similar products. Time will tell 286813



- KREB1980AC
by:

Good customer service and quick delivery 285950



- KREB1980AC
by:

I have used this type of bearing protector for years. Last spring I had a bearing burn out and used the last set I had. I was having a hard time finding a spare set. etrailer.com solved that dilemma. Thanks for having just the right items at a great price. 279103


Comments

These product continue to perform great. No grease slinging and easy to see if additional grease is needed. Extremely glad to have these on my boat trailer.

Pat L - 08/03/2017

26799

- KREB1980AC
by:

it worked fine untill i had to repack my bearings. then it wouldnt stay on the hub and the grease zerk fell off. i would have given it an excellent rating up till the service on my bearings but after that it would be poor! 277498



- KREB1980AC
by:

The product was exactly what I needed and ordered. And...it arrived quickly. Thanks again for the quick service. 269277



- KREB1980AC
by:

This is a good product. I lost one on my boat trailer and could not find one locally. Etrailer was quick to ship. Thank you! 269120



- KREB1980AC
by:

I like these much better then bearing buddys. They alloy you to keep track of their fill level much better and they are much cleaner as far as slinging grease. 268499



- KREB1980AC
by:

I ordered two sets of the bearing protectors, and they arrived within a few days of ordering them. They are exactly what I ordered, and they fit the hub perfectly. Some prefer the Kodiak brand, others prefer the Bearing Buddy. I chose Kodiak because they hold the grease as well as the Bearing Buddy, and there is no greasy mess on the wheels to contend with. Yes, eventually the chrome coating on the outside corrodes and looks shabby, but I prefer that to wheels that are covered in grease. It would be great if Kodiak would make these out of stainless steel. I made a mistake in ordering the bearing protectors (initially ordered 4 sets instead of 2), but the young lady in customer service held up the order until she confirmed with me exactly what I needed. I appreciate the good customer service. I also appreciate the fact that the product arrived in a box that was the right size - not 10x bigger than necessary and filled with $10 worth of bubble wrap. All in all, a great experience. I will definitely use e trailer again. 262335



- KREB1980AC
by:

Just as advertised. replaced an old set with these. work great, just as advertised. 252195



- KREB1980AC
by:

I put these on a small boat trailer, loaded them up and drove from California to Michigan, 2400 miles, without a problem. I always pump a bit of grease in after the trailer has been wet from launching or retrieving the boat and they have performed very well at keeping the bearings clean and lubricated. 250360


Comments

Still doing the job.

Stephen - 05/15/2017

23899

- KREB1980AC
by:

Just had a costly reminder that bearing protectors are essential. Have a smaller 2 horse trailer that is used a few times a year when we need an additional trailer for parades and other nearby events. Needless to say, bearing repack service stopped years ago. Needs changed and will little prep, this trailer found itself in much more use. After the loss of a wheel bearing and the damage it did the axle, all wheels have been repacked and Kodiac bearing protectors have been installed. This is the first trailer I have used the Kodiak product on, but after installing them I am sure they are as good as the more common brand. Installation was easy, just put on my 7 mil gloves, packed the axle and red-eye with grease and mallet it on. The excess grease compressed the spring and it was ready to roll. I am watching and adding grease as the trailer is used to make sure it remains full. While it is best to service the bearings on a regular basis, now at least they will have grease and most likely will not fail prematurely when the preventative maintenance is lacking. Not having to remove the "Bra" to inspect the grease level should mean it will get noticed if a shot of grease is in order. Etrailer price was much less than the local shop and ended up being nearly half the cost of buying the other brand and bra online. Since we operate in dirty environments, I like the way this is sealed. On the other brand, I have noticed dirt working its way into the grease. Can't happen with this design. Only time will tell how they truly perform. 242525



- KREB1980AC
by:

Perfect fit. 235184


Comments

simply great

Frank B - 01/09/2017

22183

- KREB1980AC
by:

Great looking bearing buddies. Not problem at all 234518


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Ask the Experts about this Kodiak Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Which Size Bearing Buddies Fits 3.5K Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly AKHD-545-35-EZ-K
  • For Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 Item # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K you will need a 1.98 Bearing Buddy. There are a couple of options. For stainless steel use # BB1980A-SS. For chrome plated you can use # BB1980A. Another option in a different brand is the Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors # KREB1980AC. They work the same way as the Bearing Buddies. I have included links below to videos on a Bearing Buddy model and a Kodiak model.
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  • Will Bearing Buddies Fit Trailer Hub Assembly for 2K Axles AKIHUB-440-2-1K
  • You don't have to have Bearing Buddies for hub # AKIHUB-440-2-1K but you can use them if you want to (as long as the spindle the hubs go onto does NOT have a grease zerk fitting at the very end). You would need 1.98 bearing protectors such as # BB1980A-SS, # BB1980A, or # KREB1980AC. Then to fill the hubs (and bearings) with grease you would use a grease gun such as # L30100 and grease such as # L11399. If you don't want to use bearing protectors you will need to pack the bearings...
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  • Comparing Bearing Buddy and Kodiak Red Eye Trailer Bearing Protectors
  • You can use bearing protectors on a hub with electric brakes. You have to make sure you are using a double lip seal though because a single lip seal is more likely to blow and allow grease to leak out and get all over the hub and brake components. Also, you have to make sure that you do not use too much grease, even with a double lip seal, because of the same possibility of blowing the seal. Based on the numbers you have provided you will likely need a 10-19 seal, # RG06-050 for a pair....
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  • How to Pack Grease in a Hub with a Broken Zerk Fitting on an EZ Lube Spindle
  • It sounds like the zerk fitting on your spindle has failed as it is not supposed to go into the spindle. You will want to remove the zerk fitting somehow because it could interfere with the possible solution of using bearing protectors, # KREB1980AC, to pack grease in the hub. As long as the zerk fitting is not in the way/removed then the bearing protectors will work out well for you.
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  • Overall Length of Bearing Protectors in the 1.980 Diameter Size
  • I went out to the warehouse and pulled the two different bearing protectors I have in the 1.980 diameter size and measured the overall length. The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors, part # KREB1980AC is 2-3/8 inches, including 3/8 inches that seats in hub The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, part # BB1980A is 1-13/16 inches, including 5/16 inches that seats in hub. I am including a picture of the three bearing protectors with the dimensions shown.
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  • How to Install Kodiak Red Eye Trailer Bearing Protectors, # KREB1980AC
  • You would install the Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors, # KREB1980AC, the same way you would install any drive-in style unit. What many people do is take a block of wood, place it on the outboard side of the protector, and use a mallet to drive it in. The wood will distribute the force of the mallet more evenly so it will drive in straight. If it is not straight it could come out when the wheel is turning.
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector Replacement Options
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, # BB1968SS, are designed to keep grease from exiting and water and dirt from entering. These bearing protectors come with an automatic pressure-relief feature to prevent overfilling. The grease will seep around the piston and into the barrel when it is full. You should not add additional grease once the Bearing Buddy is full to prevent the seal from blowing out. I would also recommend using the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set, # BB60002. These seals...
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  • Bearing Protector with Visual Indicator for Hub Bore of 1.98-Inches
  • Yes, if your hub bore measures 1.98-inches the bearing protector kit you want is among those shown on the linked page. We have both Bearing Buddy brand and Kodiak brand protectors to fit your hubs. It sounds like you might prefer the Kodiak protectors # KREB1980AC that have the "red eye" indicators for displaying the internal grease level.
    view full answer...

  • What Would Happen if Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors Were Used in Saltwater
  • Saltwater is very corrosive. We did have a guy try these in saltwater and they were destroyed after only around 6 times submerged in it.
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  • Bearing Protector Recommendations For Pop Up Camper
  • We do offer a few of the bearing protectors that have a 1.980 diameter. With the limited space you have you can take a measurement and see if one of the protectors we offer will work for you. I have attached a link to those you can check out. The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors, part # KREB1980AC is 2-3/8 inches, including 3/8 inches that seats in hub The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, part # BB1980A is 1-13/16 inches, including 5/16 inches that seats in hub. I have attached...
    view full answer...

  • What is the Bore Size of the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84557UC3
  • A 1.98 inch inner diameter bore is pretty common on trailer hubs. If you were to measure the bore diameter of the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, # 84557UC3, using a dial caliper, you would get 1.96 inches. This hub requires a grease cap with a 1.98 to 1.99 inch diameter. The grease cap that comes with this hub actually measures 1.99 inches. If you are looking for a replacement dust cover, you have many options. For a standard dust cover, you can use part # F001518 or # RG04-020....
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  • Are the Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors # KREB1980AC Drive In or Thread In
  • The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors, # KREB1980AC, are drive in style bearing protectors. They are not thread in bearing protectors. It looks like there are threads on these bearing protectors, but they are simply raised rings/teeth to provide a secure hold in the hub bore. This bearing protector will fit your Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly, # K1HR35D, and will press into the hub bore.
    view full answer...

  • Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brake System for 1997 Eagle Triple Axle Boat Trailer
  • Our suppliers don't offer a triple axle disc brake kit, but the next best cost effective option would be to use an existing kit and add to it. Assuming your current hubs use a # L68149 inner bearing, # L44649 outer bearing and a 10-19 seal, part # RG06-050 and a 5 lug on a 4-1/2 inch bolt circle, I'd recommend the following parts. I'd recommend beginning with the Titan Disc Brake Kit and BrakeRite II SD Electric-Hydraulic Actuator, part # T4843700, which includes the plug and play EOH...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Size Bearing Protectors for a 1985 Ranger Boat Trailer
  • With an EZ Lube type of axle, a bearing protector like a Bearing Buddy will not fit. You would need to use a drive-in type of grease cap with a plug in the end to access the zerk fitting on the axle. Take a look at # RG04-040 as an example. We have different size bearing protectors depending on the inside hub bore where they fit. You will need to measure the hub bore with some dial calipers to get the most accurate measurement possible to find the correct ones that fit. They will actually...
    view full answer...

  • EZ-Lube Grease Caps for Travel Trailer
  • It sounds like your travel trailer may use EZ-Lube spindles that have a grease zerk fitting. We offer several sizes of EZ-Lube grease caps. You can use the link provided to see all, and simply then click on the outer diameter that matches your hubs. If you require the actual bearing protectors themselves you can use the other link provided to search based on your hub's bore diameter and whether or not they are threaded. The filters in the left-hand margin will let you sort the results...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Trailer Hub with 1.98 Hub Bore and L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings
  • Based on the inner and outer bearings, L44643, you should need 1.98 bearing protectors. In this size we have several options: Stainless Steel, # BB1980A-SS Chrome Plated, # BB1980A For threaded hubs, # BB1980T-SS Kodiak brand, # KREB1980AC
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  • Recommended Solution To Keep Grease Caps Lubricated And To Avoid Caps From Falling Off
  • You would need 1.98 bearing protectors such as Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS to fit with the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 4 on 4 # AKIHUB-440-2-1K . The purpose of this Bearing Buddy is to first protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring there is enough grease in the hub Bearing Buddies are meant to be driven in with a mallet or hammer, not screwed in. As long as the outside diameter of the Bearing Buddy corresponds with the inside diameter...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddies for a Diamond B Trailer with 1.98 Inch Hub Bore
  • For a 1.98 hub bore you have several options for bearing protectors. From Bearing Buddy you can use # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel, # BB1980A for chrome-plated, or # BB1980T-SS for stainless if you need a model that threads in. And from Kodiak you could use # KREB1980AC.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Protectors for Trailer Disc Brake Kit # T4843000
  • You will need a 1.980 bearing protector for disc brake kit T4843000. We have some options. You can use # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel, # BB1980A for chrome plated, # KREB1980AC for Kodiak brand which is what comes with the disc brake kit.
    view full answer...

  • How to Determined the Correct Size Bearing Protectors for a 1996 Lowe Shorelander Boat Trailer
  • There are a couple ways to determine what size bearing protectors will fit on your 1996 Lowe Shorelander boat trailer. The first way is to send me the part numbers of your inner and outer bearings and the grease seal. If it is inconvenient to completely remove the hub and retrieve the bearings and seal part numbers, then you could measure the inside diameter of your hub where the grease cap presses in using a precise measuring tool like a dial caliper. The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing...
    view full answer...

  • How Far do the Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors Need to Be Driven onto the Bearing Housing
  • These Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors # KREB1980AC will need to be driven on squarely as far as they will go. There is a tapered inner portion to the protector that when fully installed the outer portion will not allow the bearing protector to go any further.
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  • Will the Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors fit on a 2001 VIP Trailer with Screw In Dust Covers
  • The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors - 1.98 inch Inner Diameter - 1 Pair, item # KREB1980AC, are not thread in style bearing protectors. They have teeth or raised rings around the protector to provide a secure hold in drive in hubs. Normally, the plastic screw in style cap is designed for oil bath, hub and spindle applications so bearing protectors are not used. If you need a new dust cover or grease cap, I will be glad to help, if you can provide me with the inner and outer bearing...
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  • How to Select Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Hubs on 1989 Braco Enclosed Trailer
  • You can determine which size Bearing Buddy bearing protectors you need for the hubs on your 1989 Braco enclosed trailer by measuring the hub bore with a precision caliper like # PTW80157. It is best to measure the hub, not the grease cap, since the hub's dimension will remain steady, while a grease cap could become mis-shapened from the force of removing it from the hub. you need to measure to three decimal places, such as 1.234-inches. Once you know your hub bore diameter you can use...
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Info for this part was:

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Updated by:
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