1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Dexter Axle
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.687 Inch I.D.
  6. 2.561 Inch O.D.
Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Item # 168255TB
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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168255TB - 2.561 Inch O.D. Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Dexter Axle. Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs part number 168255TB can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 168255TB

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.687 Inch I.D.
  • 2.561 Inch O.D.
  • Dexter Axle

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.


Features:

  • Fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles
  • Inner diameter: 1.687"
  • Outer Diameter: 2.561"
  • Quantity: 1 double lip seal


010-168-00 Dexter Double Lip Seal for 3.7K Marine Hubs

Replaces 158755 and 168255TB





Video of Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs - 168255TB

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (76 Customer Reviews)

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.

- 168255TB
by:

Everything was perfect fit 480855



- 168255TB
by:

Do your research, make sure you understand how bearings work, how all the pieces fit together, the various sizes etc. After doing that, these went in without a problem, everything works perfect and I learned a bunch in the process. Was a great price with quick delivery. eTrailer knows their business! 366591



- 168255TB
by:

I converted a boat trailer into a flatbed ATV/UTV trailer. My boat trailer has some different seal dimensions than a normal 3500# axle. These seals saved the day and fit perfectly into standard 3500# hubs for my trailer. Thanks! 70306


Comments
Trailer works perfectly thanks to you guys!Whenever I need a trailer part, I look to you guys first.
-- comment by: Mary - 03/19/2014

3176

- 168255TB
by:

Well organized website. Good information listed helped me find this not so common double lip marine axle seal for my 1990 boat trailer. Seal is good quality. I will be using eTrailer.com in the future. 276065



- 168255TB
by:

Working great. E trailer make it easy. 725625



- 168255TB
by:

Every thing worked as ordered thanks! 721893



- 168255TB
by:

Great service. 714395



- 168255TB
by:

This is the only seal I found that would actually seal around my trailer axle. I have a 18ft Trailstar boat trailer. Its been about a year since I installed the seals and haven’t had any issues. 667178



- 168255TB
by:

Good shipping and communication. Have made multiple orders through e trailer and all have been simple and they found what I needed 642394



- 168255TB
by:

So far so good. 617188



- 168255TB
by:

I ordered bearing seals from etrailer, got them in just a fue days and was the correct size and in perfect condition Well pleased !! 610510



- 168255TB
by:

I got exactly what I needed for my boat trailer Very prompt and pleasant ordering procedure Recommend highly if your tired of being told your seals aren't available anymore I knew what I needed and etrailer had it I'll buy again when I need there services again 603395



- 168255TB
by:

They fit my UFP axle. 568660



- 168255TB
by:

they fit with only one problem the hole order was loose in the box including the bearings 563184



- 168255TB
by:

Great service, quick shipment on exact part that I needed. 548221



- 168255TB
by:

I couldn’t find the right seal for my boat trailer anywhere locally. Found it right away on etrailer. Package arrived quicker than expected, and the seals fit perfectly. I will continue using etrailer for all my trailer needs. 543416



- 168255TB
by:

seals, bearings, and races worked great. Exact fit work like a dream 542007



- 168255TB
by:

Great product fast shipping Will buy from you again. 505275



- 168255TB
by:

works great bought seals and bearings fit like they should. 487481



- 168255TB
by:

Well hello, I dont do many reviews but I will have to say that the people at etrailer are very nice and very easy to deal with and they know there business for sure , I havent installed my parts yet and they arrived dead on time and I knew every step the parts made along the way to me . So far I am very pleased and that is hard to do with me as 99 percent of the time nothing is ever the way suppliers say it going to be until now with etrailer , very nice job guys and thank you and I will be installing everything this weekend and will do another review and will have some pics along the way, And by the way thank ou for keeping the prices affordable for us out here in the field trying to keep our equipment rolling and safe , with your prices no reason to be able to do just that , again great job guys . 485079



- 168255TB
by:

Thank you etrailer! I will definitely order from you in the future! Thank you Hally C for helping me with my purchase everything fits perfect! 453317



- 168255TB
by:

Great product. Quality is excellent 449913



- 168255TB
by:

I replaced three old seals in the last one year with these in my twin axle EZ Loader trailer . All of them are holding on well till date. Keeps the grease inside the hub and no leaks found. Works with SS sleeve, in addition. 440015



- 168255TB
by:

Seals worked just as described. Excellent shipping. Arrived a day ahead of schedule. Will certainly use your company again. 434129



- 168255TB
by:

Fast shipping and correct parts. 433370


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Ask the Experts about this Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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    The best option for your situation is to convert to electric over hydraulic with disc brakes because you have a brake controller to activate the brakes which gives you more adjust-ability on steep hills. Disc brakes cannot be manually adjusted however the brake controller gives you more control so the brakes do not stop as hard which should reduce the excessive heat buildup. They also have fewer moving parts compared to drum brakes so the maintenance is lower. To add electric over hydraulic...
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  • Seal Recommendation for Boat Trailer 47319
    That seal number is not super common but it's typically Inside Diameter (In): 1.687 Inch Outside Diameter (In): 2.332 Inch Which matches # 010-180-00.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace a Lippert 122087
    The inner diameter of a grease seal can be hard to get an exact dimension. The best way to get this info is to actually measure the outer diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides. The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you. This seal has an ID of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561 inches.
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  • Are the Trailer Grease Seals 168255TB and 171255TB Interchangeable
    The two seals you mentioned are pretty close in size but the part # 168255TB has a slightly smaller inner diameter. In nearly all cases for trailer spindles the correct seal would be the part # RG06-050 (171255TB) since trailer spindles will typically have an outer diameter of 1.73 inches. The slightly tighter seal could maybe work in but the best way to tell is to measure the spindle where the seal rides. If its 1.73 the 171255TB is the correct one.
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  • What is Difference Between Bearing # 168255TB and # 171255TB
    We recommend using digital calipers to measure the spindle. If you did not do so, you might try that. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has. So part # 168255TB will have an inner diameter of 1.68 and an outer diameter of 2.55, so it should give you a slightly better seal. We usually recommend you use the exact...
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  • Lippert Grease Seal Recommendation for a Lippert 2,800 lb Axle
    The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you.
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  • Oil Seal With 1.68 Outer Diameter And 2.56 Hub Inside Diameter
    We have the Dexter Axle Double Lip Seal for Marine Hubs # 168255TB which has the 1.68 inch diameter you need along with the 2.56 inch inside hub diameter you need.
    view full answer...
  • Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Boat Trailer Grease Seal # 470361
    The correct replacement grease seal for seal number 470361 is part # RG06-050 for a pair or part # 58846 for a single seal. Part # 168255TB has a smaller inner diameter than your current seal.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for a 168255TC Rubber Coated Seal
    We do have a compatible grease seal for your 168255TC oil seal, however, we do not carry rubber coated seals in this size. The 168255TC oil seal was designed to work with oil bath hubs on a 3,500 lb axle. For the most part, axle manufacturers have stopped making 3,500 lb axles with oil bath hubs because grease has been more reliable. Instead, I would recommend using the double lip grease seal, # 168255TB, and converting the hub to grease. This seal has the same inner diameter as your...
    view full answer...
  • Double Lip Grease Seal for a Transcom Seal with 1.75 Inner Diameter and 2.562 Outer Diameter
    You are always going to end up burning a seal when you work on a hub or change bearings. Anything that requires removing the seal. Its because they go in so tight. With an EZ lube axle you are going to want a double lip seal so your instincts were correct. A single lip seal is likely to blow out when adding grease. Seal # 168255TB is not going to work because it measures 1.687 inner diameter and 2.561 outer. We do have seals that have an inner diameter of 1.75 inches but none that also...
    view full answer...
  • Correct Grease Seal for a Boat Trailer that 10-19 Seal won't Fit
    Although there are standard bearing and seal combinations, sometimes (especially on older trailers) the "correct" seal won't fit, as you have found out. The closest seal that we have to the 1.654 Inner Diameter (ID) that you measured is part # 168255TB which has a 1.687" ID. This will be a little bigger than what you are needing but it will fit more snug than the 1.719" ID of the 10-19 seal that you are currently using. You will also want to check the diameter of the hub that this...
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  • How Thick is Trailer Hub Grease Seal 168255TB
    For trailer hub grease seal # 168255TB the thickness is 0.5 inches. I included a picture showing the inner and outer diameter and the thickness.
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  • Bearings & Seals for 2004 EZ Loaded Boat Trailer Using Bearings L68149 and L44649
    We can help you with replacement seals and bearings for your boat trailer and also with replacement hubs if yours are worn or damaged. In general double-lip seals are desirable on boat trailers to help prevent entry of water and the escape of grease. For replacement bearings use parts # L68149 and # L44649 and for a double-lip seal (as supplied by the manufacturer) use part # BB60002. If the races in your hubs are worn or damaged you can replace them too, using parts # L68111 and...
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  • How to Determine What Size Wheel Bearing and Seals Will be Needed for Trailer Axle
    There is a couple of way to determine which wheel bearings and grease seals you will be needed for a trailer axle. First, checking the numbers on the wheel bearings and seal will allow you to select the correct parts for your axle. However, in some cases these numbers may have worn off. For this a measurement of the inner diameter of the bearings and both inner and outer of the grease seal will be needed. Using a digital calipers like, # PTW80157, you can measure the I.D. of both...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Size of Double-Lip Grease Seal for Jet Ski Trailer
    In order to get the proper seals for you, I'll need the reference number off the inner bearing and the diameter of the spindle that the inside of the seal rides on. If you can't find the reference number on the bearing, use an accurate measuring device like a digital caliper to measure the inside dimension of the bearing. A ruler or tape measure isn't accurate enough, we'll need the measurement to the second decimal place (hundredth of an inch). With this information, I'd be happy to...
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  • Troubleshooting Leak on Trailer Axle
    Sounds like you have a blown grease seal on your trailer. This is a pretty common problem. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for the Hub of a Forest River RV, 171255TB
    Yes, the part # 58846 would be exactly what you need. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has.
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  • Compatibility of 168255TB Grease Seal with Dexter 8-248-50 or Kodiak Q-HUB84545 Trailer Idler Hub
    The # 168255TB seal is slightly smaller in outside diameter, therefore it wouldn't fit tightly enough in the hub bore of the # 8-248-50 or the # Q-HUB84545 hub. Both hubs are designed to use either a 10-19 or a # 58846 grease seal. Both hubs you referenced have a 1.980 outer hub bore, so the Bearing Buddies you currently have will work with either hub. Both hubs use a # L68149 inner and a # L44649 outer bearing. If the seal bearing surface of your spindles is about 1.719 inches, either...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal with Inner Diameter of 1.6 inches
    If the outer diameter of the grease seal of your hub is 2-1/2 inches the grease seal part # 168255TB would fit and work well. You can measure the bore of your hub where the seal was installed to determine this. Otherwise the spindle dimensions you listed are off enough from what we carry that none of them would fit.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Lippert 3,500 Lb Axle SN: 045-002688794
    I called Lippert and they informed me of the grease seal dimensions for your 3,500 lb axle. The correct replacement grease seal for you is part # 168255TB.
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  • Can a Different Grease Seal Be Used on Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum # 8-247-50UC3
    The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-247-50UC3 that you referenced calls for a single-lip grease seal # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and an outer diameter of 2.565 inches. The seal you referenced, part # 168255TB, is a double-lip type with an inner diameter of 1.687 inches and an outer diameter of 2.561 inches. We do not recommend using other than the specified seals for any hub application. Using an incorrect size will either allow grease to leak out or...
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  • Available Replacement Grease Seals and Grease Caps
    The best way to match up a new grease seal is to find the existing seal's part number and cross reference to a currently-available compatible part. When part numbers are not available measurements are needed, so thank you for those. Usually a grease seal's outer diameter should be only a few thousandths of an inch larger than the hub bore. For a grease seal to fit the 2.545-inch diameter of your hub's rear bore you would want one with a diameter in the range of 2.550-inches. We do have...
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  • Double Lip Grease Seal for a 3,500 lbs Boat Trailer with About 1.67" Spindle Measurement
    It definitely sounds like you have the wrong seals, especially if they are barely making contact. I believe the seal you are looking for is part # 168255TB which is a double lip seal with the spring on the primary lip typically used for 3,700 lb marine hubs. It has an inner diameter of 1.687" and an outer diameter of 2.561". You need to measure both where it rides on the spindle as well as where it sits on your hub to ensure that it fits properly. If you have a different measurement...
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  • Axle Replacement Recommendation for a Trailer with Unique Spindle Dimensions
    The closest seal we have to what would match what you have would be the part # 168255TB. This seal has an outer diameter of 2.561. The inner bearing with the matching ID would be the part # 603049. Nothing we have would fit the 2.328 you have for the bearing inner diameter of the other bearing. Based on the dimensions you listed there really isn't any thing out there that would fit your spindle/hub. The only recommendation I could make would be for a new axle. I attached a page that...
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  • How to Pick out a Grease Seal for a 2000 EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    The only recommendation I can make for you would be to remove your hub and current grease seal so that you can determine what you currently have either by measuring it or getting the number off it and then pick out the correct seal based on that info. The Double Lip Seal part # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
    The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Grease Seal for Spindle that is 1.68 Inches in Diameter
    There are grease seals with inner diameters of 1.687 inches, # 168255TB, or 1.688 inches, # 168233, that would be a better fit. If the outer diameters match the inner hub bore diameter then you can use one of them instead. Seal # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687 inches and outer diameter of 2.561 inches. Seal # 168233 has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and outer diameter of 2.332 inches. The seals in set # RG06-050 have an outer diameter of 2.565 inches so that would...
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  • Hub Replacement Recommendation for DICO Hub part 45264
    Yes, the CE Smith Trailer Hub part # CE13511 will fit as a replacement for your DICO hub 45264 but you will need to use a different seal as we have found that your spindle diameter is slightly different which means you need the # 168255TB as well.
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  • Using Bearing Numbers or Spindle Measurements to Select the Right Replacement Trailer Hub
    To select the correct replacement hub I would either need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings or the measurements of the spindle. I have included a picture showing where a spindle should be measured. The measurements need to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using digital calipers such as # PTW80157. It looks like hub # AKIHUB-545-35-G-EZ-K will work but you would need a different seal, # 168255TB. We have a will call for local...
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  • Replacement Electric Brakes and Grease Seal for Lippert 4,400 Pound Axle
    For your Lippert 4,400 pound axle I definitely recommend going with 4,400 pound electric brake assemblies. Lower rated assemblies will have a weaker magnet that won't provide sufficient stopping for a heavier trailer like yours. For this the Dexter Electric Brake Kit # K23-462-463-00 or the Nev-R-Adjust # K23-478-479 for easier maintenance will work perfectly. Both the Left and Right Hand assemblies are included with these kits. I reached out to Lippert and was able to track down the...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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Updated by:
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