1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Dexter Axle
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.561 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.687 Inch I.D.
Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

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Our Price: $12.59
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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168255TB - 2.561 Inch O.D. Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Dexter Axle. Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs part number 168255TB can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.561 Inch O.D.
  • 1.687 Inch I.D.
  • Dexter Axle

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.


Features:

  • Fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles
  • Inner diameter: 1.687"
  • Outer Diameter: 2.561"
  • Quantity: 1 double lip seal


010-168-00 Dexter Double Lip Seal for 3.7K Marine Hubs

Replaces 158755 and 168255TB

Item # 168255TB





Video of Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs - 168255TB

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (101 Customer Reviews)

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.

- 168255TB
by:

I converted a boat trailer into a flatbed ATV/UTV trailer. My boat trailer has some different seal dimensions than a normal 3500# axle. These seals saved the day and fit perfectly into standard 3500# hubs for my trailer. Thanks!


Comments
Trailer works perfectly thanks to you guys!Whenever I need a trailer part, I look to you guys first.
-- comment by: Mary - 03/19/2014


- 168255TB
by:

I replaced my old rotors and calipers with a better designed set and couldn't be happier. George helped me select the correct gear that fit my trailer spindles and everything went together easily without any snags.



- 168255TB
by:

Exactly as described to work with bearing buddies on my shorelander trailer.



- 168255TB
by:

A bullet proof seal for a boat trailer.



- 168255TB
by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



- 168255TB
by:

This seal fit perfectly to replace the 168255TC that came on my oil bath hub on the tapered spindle of my EZ Loader boat trailer which I converted to grease filled with Bearing Buddys.



- 168255TB
by:

These grease seals were the last thing I needed to rebuild my 3500 lb trailer axle. When they arrived I was pleased to find that the inside diameter fit perfectly on the axle and the outside diameter fit into the wheel hub snuggly. They were easy to install and looked much stronger then the original.



- 168255TB
by:

I didn't know what seal i needed because i'm not very familiar with trailer parts, but their extensive information helped me to find product.



- 168255TB
by:

Everything was as ordered. Grease Seal part number 168255tb was the same seal included in bearing kit BK2-100. The description of 168255tb was not the same as the description in kit BK2-100. I would not have wasted my money on the 2 extra seals if I would have know they were the same


Comments
The seal that comes in the BK2-100 kit has a slightly larger diameter than this seal, and that kit typically fits a 3.5K axle. This 168255TB seal is designed specifically for Dexters 3.7K Marine axle.
-- Etrailer Expert Victoria B - 03/27/2020


- 168255TB
by:

Perfect fit for my 2000 EZ Loader tandem axle trailer and Skeeter. eTrailer, if you're listening, please become a trailer parts expert that has a cross reference listing for trailer parts by manufacturer. I asked if this was the right seal and was told to pull the old seal for the part number on it. The problem was I suspected that the hub had the wrong seal on it, which I confirmed when I replaced it with this part. Using the part number from the existing seal would not have fixed the problem in this case. I had to do my own leg work and find the most likely candidate for the correct seal and take the gamble that I had the right one. Glad my research was correct. Please build your own cross reference of the major manufacturers so that you can be the expert in all things trailer. You have the other stuff covered.


Comments
Seals are kind of a pain. Even if a cross-reference sheet was built which is difficult because seals dont use common part numbers like bearings, if the incorrect seal was used like in your case, the cross-reference would only direct you to another incorrect seal. The absolute best way to determine which seal is needed is to measure 2 things with a dial caliper. Measure the seal surface on the spindle, that will give you the seal ID. Measure the diameter of the seal surface on the hub and that will give you the OD of the seal. With the ID and OD of the seal, it becomes very easy to find the seal, even on our site.
-- Etrailer Expert Patrick B - 09/12/2014

Comments
Correction to my original review. I had one hub that was replaced on my trailer before I acquired it. This seal worked for that hub, but not the original hubs.
-- comment by: Ed P - 03/21/2015



- 168255TB
by:

I found it easy to order what I needed. It arrived quickly. Installed easy. Works great.



- 168255TB
by:

Good shipping and communication. Have made multiple orders through e trailer and all have been simple and they found what I needed


Comments
Called e trailer they cross referenced my parts and got me what I needed when no one else could
Shelby - 05/16/2020


- 168255TB
by:

No part number on my boat trailer seal. I measured inside and outside diameters with a digital caliper and it was really simple to match it up at etrailer.com. It fit perfectly. Price was great and delivery time was extremely fast.


Comments
No problems at all!
James - 06/06/2017



- 168255TB
by:

These were hard to find, odd size I guess. etrailer came through with quick shipping and they fit perfect. Holding up well so far.


Comments
Perfect. Have held up over a number of long trips.
Paul S - 10/13/2017



- 168255TB
by:

Perfect fit, high quality.



- 168255TB
by:

So far, so good. Delivery was fast. The seals are a good fit for my boat trailer and seem to be of good quality. The last seals I used were single-lip and did not do a good job of keeping the water out and the grease in. I am hoping these double-lip seals will be better. I'll know in a year or so how well they work.



- 168255TB
by:

Do your research, make sure you understand how bearings work, how all the pieces fit together, the various sizes etc. After doing that, these went in without a problem, everything works perfect and I learned a bunch in the process. Was a great price with quick delivery. eTrailer knows their business!



- 168255TB
by:

I got exactly what I needed for my boat trailer Very prompt and pleasant ordering procedure Recommend highly if your tired of being told your seals aren't available anymore I knew what I needed and etrailer had it I'll buy again when I need there services again



- 168255TB
by:

Well organized website. Good information listed helped me find this not so common double lip marine axle seal for my 1990 boat trailer. Seal is good quality. I will be using eTrailer.com in the future.



- 168255TB
by:

This is the only seal I found that would actually seal around my trailer axle. I have a 18ft Trailstar boat trailer. Its been about a year since I installed the seals and haven’t had any issues.



- 168255TB
by:

Seal seems ok, but was disappointed there was no actual part number on the part like there always is. So it was kind of hard to verify that it was correct by the number. Did seem to fit fine. Was in the middle of the job and needed these seals. Was shipped value ground. Didn't say how long it would take and previous orders came in one day. This went from Wentzville, to Kansas City, then to Hazelwood , sat there for two days , anyway was frustrating that shipping took so long.



- 168255TB
by:

I couldn’t find the right seal for my boat trailer anywhere locally. Found it right away on etrailer. Package arrived quicker than expected, and the seals fit perfectly. I will continue using etrailer for all my trailer needs.



- 168255TB
by:

The product is a seal it works. The customer service is above and beyond what you can ask for, friendly, knowledgeable , and a willingness to help. Awesome people highly recommend etrailer.



- 168255TB
by:

My order was delivered on time and was the correct seals.



- 168255TB
by:

I ordered bearing seals from etrailer, got them in just a fue days and was the correct size and in perfect condition Well pleased !!


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Ask the Experts about this Dexter Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacing Broken Oil Seal Springs 168255TC
    The 168255TC oil seal is designed for use on for oil bath hubs, but they can be used on grease hubs. They basically just provide a better seal to hold oil in; they will still work for grease. The springs on your oil seals are required to function correctly, so you will need to replace the oil seals. We do not have oil seals available in the size you need. However, you can replace your oil seals with a grease seal. The Double Lip Seal # 168255TB will replace your oil seal. To do this,...
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine the Correct Size of Double-Lip Grease Seal for Jet Ski Trailer
    In order to get the proper seals for you, I'll need the reference number off the inner bearing and the diameter of the spindle that the inside of the seal rides on. If you can't find the reference number on the bearing, use an accurate measuring device like a digital caliper to measure the inside dimension of the bearing. A ruler or tape measure isn't accurate enough, we'll need the measurement to the second decimal place (hundredth of an inch). With this information, I'd be happy to...
    view full answer...
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  • How To Convert Oil Bath Hubs on 3700 Lb Axle Over to Grease
    Converting an oil bath hub to grease couldn't be simpler. Just drain the oil, clean and inspect the bearings and races and pack the bearings with a good quality grease like the LMX # L11390. The # 168255TB seal you mentioned is typically used by 3700 lb marine hubs which use a # L68149 and # L44649 bearing and a # L68110 and # L44610 race. We offer the replacement races, seals and bearings if you need them.
    view full answer...
  • How Thick is Trailer Hub Grease Seal 168255TB
    For trailer hub grease seal # 168255TB the thickness is 0.5 inches. I included a picture showing the inner and outer diameter and the thickness.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Double Lip Grease Seal for a 3,500 lbs Boat Trailer with About 1.67" Spindle Measurement
    It definitely sounds like you have the wrong seals, especially if they are barely making contact. I believe the seal you are looking for is part # 168255TB which is a double lip seal with the spring on the primary lip typically used for 3,700 lb marine hubs. It has an inner diameter of 1.687" and an outer diameter of 2.561". You need to measure both where it rides on the spindle as well as where it sits on your hub to ensure that it fits properly. If you have a different measurement...
    view full answer...
  • Seal Recommendation for Boat Trailer 47319
    That seal number is not super common but it's typically Inside Diameter (In): 1.687 Inch Outside Diameter (In): 2.332 Inch Which matches # 010-180-00.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal with Inner Diameter of 1.6 inches
    If the outer diameter of the grease seal of your hub is 2-1/2 inches the grease seal part # 168255TB would fit and work well. You can measure the bore of your hub where the seal was installed to determine this. Otherwise the spindle dimensions you listed are off enough from what we carry that none of them would fit.
    view full answer...
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  • Double Lip Grease Seal for a Transcom Seal with 1.75 Inner Diameter and 2.562 Outer Diameter
    You are always going to end up burning a seal when you work on a hub or change bearings. Anything that requires removing the seal. Its because they go in so tight. With an EZ lube axle you are going to want a double lip seal so your instincts were correct. A single lip seal is likely to blow out when adding grease. Seal # 168255TB is not going to work because it measures 1.687 inner diameter and 2.561 outer. We do have seals that have an inner diameter of 1.75 inches but none that also...
    view full answer...
  • What is Difference Between Bearing # 168255TB and # 171255TB
    We recommend using digital calipers to measure the spindle. If you did not do so, you might try that. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has. So part # 168255TB will have an inner diameter of 1.68 and an outer diameter of 2.55, so it should give you a slightly better seal. We usually recommend you use the exact...
    view full answer...
  • Oil Seal With 1.68 Outer Diameter And 2.56 Hub Inside Diameter
    We have the Dexter Axle Double Lip Seal for Marine Hubs # 168255TB which has the 1.68 inch diameter you need along with the 2.56 inch inside hub diameter you need.
    view full answer...
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  • Are the Trailer Grease Seals 168255TB and 171255TB Interchangeable
    The two seals you mentioned are pretty close in size but the part # 168255TB has a slightly smaller inner diameter. In nearly all cases for trailer spindles the correct seal would be the part # RG06-050 (171255TB) since trailer spindles will typically have an outer diameter of 1.73 inches. The slightly tighter seal could maybe work in but the best way to tell is to measure the spindle where the seal rides. If its 1.73 the 171255TB is the correct one.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for Lippert 3,500 Lb Axle SN: 045-002688794
    I called Lippert and they informed me of the grease seal dimensions for your 3,500 lb axle. The correct replacement grease seal for you is part # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for a 168255TC Rubber Coated Seal
    We do have a compatible grease seal for your 168255TC oil seal, however, we do not carry rubber coated seals in this size. The 168255TC oil seal was designed to work with oil bath hubs on a 3,500 lb axle. For the most part, axle manufacturers have stopped making 3,500 lb axles with oil bath hubs because grease has been more reliable. Instead, I would recommend using the double lip grease seal, # 168255TB, and converting the hub to grease. This seal has the same inner diameter as your...
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  • Available Replacement Grease Seals and Grease Caps
    The best way to match up a new grease seal is to find the existing seal's part number and cross reference to a currently-available compatible part. When part numbers are not available measurements are needed, so thank you for those. Usually a grease seal's outer diameter should be only a few thousandths of an inch larger than the hub bore. For a grease seal to fit the 2.545-inch diameter of your hub's rear bore you would want one with a diameter in the range of 2.550-inches. We do have...
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  • Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Boat Trailer Grease Seal # 470361
    The correct replacement grease seal for seal number 470361 is part # RG06-050 for a pair or part # 58846 for a single seal. Part # 168255TB has a smaller inner diameter than your current seal.
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  • Best Brake Option For Boat Trailer With Surge Brakes That Overheat and Drag On Steep Hills
    The best option for your situation is to convert to electric over hydraulic with disc brakes because you have a brake controller to activate the brakes which gives you more adjust-ability on steep hills. Disc brakes cannot be manually adjusted however the brake controller gives you more control so the brakes do not stop as hard which should reduce the excessive heat buildup. They also have fewer moving parts compared to drum brakes so the maintenance is lower. To add electric over hydraulic...
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  • Bearings & Seals for 2004 EZ Loaded Boat Trailer Using Bearings L68149 and L44649
    We can help you with replacement seals and bearings for your boat trailer and also with replacement hubs if yours are worn or damaged. In general double-lip seals are desirable on boat trailers to help prevent entry of water and the escape of grease. For replacement bearings use parts # L68149 and # L44649 and for a double-lip seal (as supplied by the manufacturer) use part # BB60002. If the races in your hubs are worn or damaged you can replace them too, using parts # L68111 and...
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  • How to Pick out a Grease Seal for a 2000 EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    The only recommendation I can make for you would be to remove your hub and current grease seal so that you can determine what you currently have either by measuring it or getting the number off it and then pick out the correct seal based on that info. The Double Lip Seal part # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561.
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  • Compatibility of 168255TB Grease Seal with Dexter 8-248-50 or Kodiak Q-HUB84545 Trailer Idler Hub
    The # 168255TB seal is slightly smaller in outside diameter, therefore it wouldn't fit tightly enough in the hub bore of the # Q-HUB84545 hub. The hub is designed to use either a 10-19 or a # 58846 grease seal. The hub you referenced has a 1.980 outer hub bore, so the Bearing Buddies you currently have will work fine. The hub uses a # L68149 inner and a # L44649 outer bearing. If the seal bearing surface of your spindles is about 1.719 inches, the hub would work just fine for you.
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  • Axle Replacement Recommendation for a Trailer with Unique Spindle Dimensions
    The closest seal we have to what would match what you have would be the part # 168255TB. This seal has an outer diameter of 2.561. The inner bearing with the matching ID would be the part # 603049. Nothing we have would fit the 2.328 you have for the bearing inner diameter of the other bearing. Based on the dimensions you listed there really isn't any thing out there that would fit your spindle/hub. The only recommendation I could make would be for a new axle. I attached a page that...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for EZ-Loader Boat Trailer with 2.56" x 1.68" Dimensions
    The correct match we offer for a grease seal which measures 2.56" outer diameter x 1.68" inner diameter is the Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs part # 168255TB.
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  • Are Trailer Grease Seals Sold in Pairs or Individually
    We offer trailer grease seals in pairs or individually. You'll see in the description if they are a pair or individually. For example we have the # 168255TB which is sold individually.
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  • How to Determine What Size Wheel Bearing and Seals Will be Needed for Trailer Axle
    There is a couple of way to determine which wheel bearings and grease seals you will be needed for a trailer axle. First, checking the numbers on the wheel bearings and seal will allow you to select the correct parts for your axle. However, in some cases these numbers may have worn off. For this a measurement of the inner diameter of the bearings and both inner and outer of the grease seal will be needed. Using a digital calipers like, # PTW80157, you can measure the I.D. of both...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace a Lippert 122087
    The inner diameter of a grease seal can be hard to get an exact dimension. The best way to get this info is to actually measure the outer diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides. The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you. This seal has an ID of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561 inches.
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  • Correct Grease Seal for a Boat Trailer that 10-19 Seal won't Fit
    Although there are standard bearing and seal combinations, sometimes (especially on older trailers) the "correct" seal won't fit, as you have found out. The closest seal that we have to the 1.654 Inner Diameter (ID) that you measured is part # 168255TB which has a 1.687" ID. This will be a little bigger than what you are needing but it will fit more snug than the 1.719" ID of the 10-19 seal that you are currently using. You will also want to check the diameter of the hub that this...
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  • Information Needed To Determine Replacement Grease Seal
    In order to recommend the correct grease seal, I'll need to know the diameter of the inner hub bore (or the reference number from the inner wheel bearing) as well as the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides. If you can provide that, I'd be happy to recommend a seal for you. A digital caliper like # PTW80157 is the best way to get that measurement.
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  • Lippert Grease Seal Recommendation for a Lippert 2,800 lb Axle
    The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for the Hub of a Forest River RV, 171255TB
    Yes, the part # 58846 would be exactly what you need. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has.
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  • Troubleshooting Leak on Trailer Axle
    Sounds like you have a blown grease seal on your trailer. This is a pretty common problem. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Grease Seal and Hub For a 2007 EZ Loader Customs Boat Trailer
    Your hub on your 2007 EZ Loader Custom trailer uses a unique size Grease Seal # 168255TB (inner diameter 1.687"). We do not have any bearing or hub kits that will have all the correct parts for your hub. Here is a list off the parts you would need to build your own bearing kit. Inner Bearing # L68149 Inner Race # L68111 Outer Bearing # L44649 Outer Race # L44610 Grease Seal # 168255TB If you would like to replace the hub that will already have the correct bearing races already...
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